Learning how to make nigiri sushi involves mastering unique sushi hand techniques known as kaeshi (返し). These hand movements are what unite the shari (vinegared rice) and the sushi neta (sushi topping), creating sushi that is both stable and visually beautiful. The four core methods are Kotegaeshi (小手返し), Hontegaeshi (本手返し), Tategaeshi (縦返し), and Ittegaeshi (一手返し). Understanding these sushi techniques is key for anyone studying Japanese cuisine, whether professionally or at home.
Kotegaeshi
The most basic and widely used sushi hand movement. To practice this nigiri sushi technique, hold the shari in your left hand and place the neta on top. Curl your fingers slightly to wrap the sushi, then transfer it to your right hand while flipping so the topping faces upward. With your right thumb and middle finger, gently press both sides, then adjust the short edges. A final light press completes the nigiri.
This method produces fluffy rice that holds together well and is ideal for beginners learning how to shape nigiri sushi.
| Step | Action | Point |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Shape shari lightly in the left hand | Do not press too hard, keep air inside |
| 2 | Place the neta on your right fingertips | Shiny side of the fish should face up |
| 3 | Combine neta and shari in the left hand | Neta should gently wrap the rice |
| 4 | Shape the entire piece using your right index finger and thumb | Use light pressure, not squeezing |
| 5 | Complete the nigiri and finish by shaping it with your right hand | The flip creates a smooth, rounded finish |
Sushi chefs who use the Kotegaeshi technique are as follows:
“Sukiyabashi Jiro” – Jiro Ono (left-handed)
“Harutaka” – Harutaka Takahashi (2025 Michelin Guide Three-Star Award)
‘Kyubei’ – Yosuke Imada
“Sushi Kanesaka” – Shinji Kanesaka ((2025 Michelin Guide Two-Star Award)
“Sushi Saito” – Takashi Saito
“Ginza Sushi Aoki” – Toshikatsu Aoki
“Sawada” – Koji Sawada
“Nihonbashi Kakigara-cho Sugita” – Sugita Takaaki
“Sushi Hashimoto” – Hashimoto Hiroyuki (2025 Michelin Guide One-Star Award)
“Kozasa Sushi Shimokitazawa” – Nishikawa Tsutomu
“Mitani” – Mitani Yasuhiko
“Sushi Yoshitake” – Takeshita Masahiro
‘Umi’ – Nagano Mitsuyasu (deceased)
“Sushi Ryujiro” – Nakamura Ryujiro (2025 Michelin Guide One-Star Award)
Hontegaeshi
This advanced method requires both hands and is often used in professional sushi preparation techniques. First, lightly press one short edge with your right fingers, then move the sushi into your right hand. Cover it with your left hand, flip it upside down, and return it to the left with the neta facing up. Press the opposite edge and the long sides, then adjust the shape lightly to finish.
Although more complex, this traditional sushi technique ensures symmetry and stability, often showcased in fine dining sushi experiences.
| Step | Action | Point |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Shape shari with the left hand, prepare neta with the right | Synchronize both hands |
| 2 | Combine neta and shari | Fix rice in the left, slide neta with the right |
| 3 | Switch the rice to your right hand while wrapping the entire piece with both hands | Soft palms and delicate fingertips are key |
| 4 | Flip the sushi to face the topping upward in your hand | Natural rotation and pressure control |
| 5 | Final adjustment with right hand | Keep symmetry and even height |
Sushi chefs who use the Hontegaeshi technique are as follows.
“Futaba Sushi” – Akiō Konishi
“Kiyota” – Takeaki Niitsu
“Sushiko” – Mamoru Sugiyama
‘Yoshino’ – Suekichi Yoshino
“Sushi Matsunami” – Jun’ichirō Matsunami
“Yoshino Sushi Honten” – Shojiro Yoshino
“Araki” – Mizuhiro Araki
“Sushi Kibaya” – Mitsuhiro Kibaya
“Masuda Isamu” – Isamu Masuda
‘Kintaro’ – Shiro Noguchi
Tategaeshi
This method features a vertical flipping motion and is especially useful for delicate toppings. Open your right hand wide and receive the sushi vertically, then pass it back to your left hand. From there, tighten the four sides just like Kotegaeshi. This minimizes contact with the topping, making it perfect for tamagoyaki or menegi. The distinctive look makes it popular in creative sushi techniques and high-end courses.
| Step | Action | Point |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Prepare shari in the palm, place neta vertically | Align the neta center with the rice |
| 2 | Place the topping vertically onto the shari | Support gently to prevent bending |
| 3 | Begin shaping the filling as if wrapping it in your palm | Adjust pressure to match resistance |
| 4 | Lightly roll and shape the topping, which has been turned vertically | Keep neta tips from lifting |
| 5 | Check overall balance | Ensure stability and integration |
Sushi chefs who use the Tategaeshi technique are as follows.
“Sushi Izumi” – Sato Mamoru
“Sushi Yuu” – Ozaki Jun
“Sushi Namba Hibiya” – Namba Hidefumi
“Komatsu Yasuke” -Morita Kazuo
“Sushi Sho NYC” – Nakazawa Keiji
Ittegaeshi
As the Japanese term literally implies, it is a quick technique that shapes sushi in a single motion. It can be said that no sushi chefs use it nowadays.
Summary
- Kotegaeshi: the basic sushi hand technique, easy to learn at home
- Hontegaeshi: advanced two-handed flip, creates refined symmetry
- Tategaeshi: vertical flip, perfect for delicate toppings and presentation
By practicing these sushi hand movements, anyone can improve their skill in making nigiri sushi. Whether you are a beginner or aiming for professional mastery, these sushi techniques form the foundation of authentic Japanese sushi-making.
However, there is also a fifth technique that doesn’t involve flipping the sushi. This technique has the advantage of being faster and more hygienic, requiring fewer steps. However, it presents a less impressive performance to the sushi chef. For your reference.