Red flesh
Striped marlin (Makajiki)
【Nigiri sushi: Akami】
The striped marlin (Makajiki), whose flesh is similar in color to the red flesh of tuna, was once commonly used by sushi restaurants that offered delivery, because it retains its color better than tuna does. In Edomae sushi, striped marlin has long been regarded as a premium fish. There is also a tradition of using no swordfish species other than striped marlin as sushi toppings, so species such as broadbill swordfish (Mekajiki) are not highly regarded as sushi ingredients.
Its reddish flesh, reminiscent of spring, offers an elegant yet robust richness. The umami from its fat—which differs from that of tuna—is another appealing feature, making it particularly appealing to those who love tuna and prefer “toro” (fatty tuna) to lean cuts. While the fatty belly cuts are generally considered the most delicious in most fish, in marlin, the back sections—which have a more even distribution of fat and a firmer texture—are preferred.
While it can be served plain as nigiri, marinating it (zuke) brings out its umami more distinctly. However, compared with bluefin tuna, swordfish flesh has a more complex and tougher grain structure, so depending on how it is sliced, the fibers can be quite noticeable. Therefore, the experience of the sushi chef—who must carefully assess the direction of the grain before making the cut—is crucial.
When swordfish arrives at the market, the head is removed, and the body is divided into four sections by cuts made at roughly 30-cm intervals from the head. These sections are called the “first cut,” “second cut,” “third cut,” and “fourth cut,” starting from the head. Among these, the second cut is considered the most versatile and flavorful, making it the preferred choice for sushi restaurants.
Just as with tuna, the uwami sections command higher prices than the shitami sections. Here, uwami refers to the side of the fish that is visible to people when it is landed on the fishing vessel, while shitami refers to the opposite side. The shitami is said to be more susceptible to damage because the fish rests on it under its own weight during transport to the market.
Even at high-end sushi restaurants, it is not very common to see swordfish in the sushi display case. However, since it offers a unique umami from its fat—distinct from that of tuna—and a firm, refined texture, it is definitely worth trying if you ever have the opportunity to taste it.
【Trivia】
In Ishikawa Prefecture, the local dialect calls swordfish “sawara”. The part of the fish called “sode” (the belly) is highly prized for its rich fat content, similar to the fatty tuna belly.
There are various types of marlin, such as the striped marlin, the black marlin, and the white marlin, but they are generally written as “sawara”in supermarkets.
Incidentally, the original sawara (Japanese spanish mackerel) was not caught very much in the past, but the amount of fish caught in Ishikawa Prefecture has been increasing rapidly since around 2000. It is sometimes called “Yanagisawara”to distinguish it.
【Substitute fish】
Opah or Sunfish: Lampris megalopsis Underkoffler, Luers, Hyde and Craig, 2018
【Related contents】
What is Jukusei sushi?
List of Red flesh fish (Akami)
(Revision date: August 26, 2026)