Silver-skinned
Gizzard shad (Kohada)
【Nigiri sushi: Hikarimono】
Alongside the red flesh of tuna and the white elegance of sea bream, “hikarimono” (silver-skinned fish) represents another essential pillar of sushi toppings. Among them, the definitive representative—and the fish often said to “reveal the skill of a sushi chef”—is kohada (gizzard shad).
Today, kohada is an indispensable part of nigiri sushi, but before World War II it was generally regarded as a lower-grade fish and was rarely used in high-end sushi restaurants. When better ingredients were scarce, chefs had no choice but to rely on kohada. To overcome its modest image, they developed refined preparation techniques such as kazari-bōchō before shaping the sushi, elevating its presentation and appeal.
Kohada is not a single fixed name but changes depending on its size and maturity. In the Kanto region, fish around 4–5 cm are called shinko; at 7–10 cm they are referred to as kohada; around 13 cm they are called nakazumi; and at 15 cm or more, konoshiro.
Among these stages, kohada is the most commonly used for sushi. However, it is not a fish suited for grilling due to its strong aroma, and even simmering is difficult because of its many fine bones. For this reason, it is rarely served without preparation and is typically used only after vinegar curing (sujime). To bring out its best qualities, chefs first apply salt curing (shiojime) to remove excess moisture, then marinate it in vinegar. This delicate process requires careful adjustment depending on the fat content of the fish, weather conditions, and other subtle factors—making it a technique that truly tests a chef’s skill.
Shinko, the juvenile form of kohada, is particularly prized. It is only available from June to August and is sometimes referred to as a rare example of “kaorimono” (aromatic fish). Because of its small size, two to three fillets are often used per piece of nigiri. The first catch of the season is especially valued, sometimes reaching extremely high prices, and remains highly anticipated among sushi enthusiasts each year.
Kohada is sourced from various regions across Japan, including Ariake in Saga, Mikawa Bay in Aichi, and Amakusa in Kumamoto. Chefs carefully select fish of similar size and fat distribution to ensure consistency. The salting process uses coarse salt to draw out moisture without overpowering the flavor, followed by vinegar curing. Every step—from salt amount to curing time—is finely adjusted according to the condition of the fish.
When prepared in this way, kohada loses its strong fishy aroma and develops a clean flavor with a subtle sweetness in its fat. Depending on size, one fish or even half of it may be used for a single piece of sushi. Kohada is at its best from September to November, a season many diners eagerly await.
More than just the representative of silver-skinned fish, kohada can be seen as one of the true expressions of Edo-style sushi craftsmanship. If you are visiting a sushi restaurant, it is well worth trying this understated yet highly refined topping.
Also called Dotted gizzard shad or Spotted sardine.
【Trivia】
Kohada served at conveyor belt sushi restaurants are actually Konoshiro imported from Taiwan. Kohada imported from Southeast Asia and marinated with vinegar are used most often so there is no opportunity to enjoy the delicate flavors.
【Temperature of vinegared rice (shari) and sushi toppings】
36～37℃/18～20℃
【Related contents】
Kohada (Gizzard shad) flavor is refined by exquisite salt seasoning!
What is Sujime?
What is Shiojime?
What is Warisu?
WHAT IS WA-BOCHO (JAPANESE KITCHEN KNIVES)?
What is Tazunamaki?
What is Japanese scaled sardine (Mamakari) sushi?
List of Silver-skinned fish (Hikarimono)
(Revision date: March 29, 2025)