East Asian common octopus nigiri

East Asian common octopus (Madako)

【Nigiri sushi: Tako (Octopus)】
Even among sushi chefs, it is often said that the true value of the East Asian common octopus (Madako) lies not so much in its umami intensity as in its firm texture and satisfying bite. Its flesh is firm without being overly tough, offering a subtle resistance that gradually gives way with each chew. This texture is the true appeal of madako and is also the aspect that most clearly reflects the quality of its preparation.

Nigiri made with madako is often served midway through an omakase course. Because its flavor is relatively mild and its fat content is low, it is said to serve as a palate cleanser, providing a natural transition to the next piece of sushi.

Domestic madako is generally called “jidako,” but catches have declined in recent years, and Japan now relies heavily on imports from African countries such as Mauritania and Morocco. Imported madako is characterized by softer flesh than its domestic counterpart and a vivid red color when boiled. In contrast, domestic madako is prized for its balance of umami and texture. Particularly high-quality madako from Kurihama and Sajima has firm flesh and offers not only rich umami but also a distinctive aroma.

Furthermore, madako from Akashi is known for its exceptionally firm texture, so much so that it is said to be able to “stand on its own.” When prepared for nigiri sushi, decorative cuts are made in the surface, and the flesh is lightly tenderized with the back of a knife to bring out its firm texture and subtle sweetness. On the other hand, madako simmered in a mild soy sauce-based broth is called “sakurani,” a preparation that is also popular at sushi restaurants.

【Classification of the Madako】
Octopus vulgaris was once considered a single species with a broad global distribution. However, subsequent DNA analyses and other studies have revealed several geographically distinct lineages, some of which have since been reclassified as separate species. Consequently, the Japanese common octopus (madako) is now classified as Octopus sinensis rather than Octopus vulgaris. A 2022 study recognized six taxonomic groups within the Octopus vulgaris species complex: Octopus vulgaris, Octopus americanus, Octopus aff. vulgaris, Octopus sinensis, Octopus tetricus, and Octopus djinda.

【What is Madako】
Tako (common octopus) lives in shallow waters in warm regions throughout the world. Outside Japan, many people keep their distance from this creature, with some even calling it names such as “devil fish.” Japan accounts for about 60% of global tako consumption.

Madako (East Asian common octopus) found in Japanese waters is called “jidako,” but it is extremely rare, and most madako consumed in Japan is imported from Mauritania and Morocco. Compared with jidako, imported madako is known to have softer flesh and to turn a vivid red when boiled. Jidako, on the other hand, is highly valued for its umami and texture. High-quality jidako from places such as Akashi and Sajima has firm flesh, rich umami, and a distinctive aroma.

The lifespan of madako is not known, but it is believed to range from one to several years. Madako reproduces only once, at the end of its life, leaving offspring before dying. In preparation for this final reproductive event, madako is said to grow rapidly from June to July, when its voracious appetite makes this period one of the best seasons for the species.

Tako has sweetness and umami characteristics similar to those of ika (squid), which are attributed to compounds such as taurine, betaine, and glycine. The reason tako skin turns red when boiled is that the color of the ommochromes present in the chromatophores near the skin's surface changes.

【Substitute fish】
Chestnut octopus: Paroctopus conispadiceus (Sasaki, 1917)

【Trivia】
・While octopus caught in the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea are primarily common octopus (Octopus vulgaris), recent genetic studies have shown that the so-called “Madako” found in waters near Japan are actually Asian common octopus (Octopus sinensis). Although they were once treated as the same species, advances in DNA analysis have led to their classification as separate species since the 2010s.

・There are fewer and fewer sushi restaurants that buy live octopus in the market and then boil it themselves recently. The flavor of the octopus is greatly influenced by the boiling method. If boiled for too long, some of the depth of flavor is lost, while if the boiling time is too short, the texture becomes limp.

・At Sukibayashi Jiro, tako is served with coarse salt rather than applying Nitsume (which is otherwise always used for Nimono), in order to keep from overpowering the fragrance of the tako.

【Related contents】
What is Takoyaki?

What is used as a substitute for Madako (Octopus)?

Nori (Dried laver seaweed)

List of Squid (Ika) and Octopus (Tako)

(Previous revision date: May 19, 2026; Current revision date: November 14, 2026)