Fish roe
Salmon roe (Ikura)
【Nigiri sushi: Gyoran】
“Ikura” means “fish roe” in Russian. The ikura used in sushi restaurants is primarily made from the eggs of chum salmon (akizake) caught in fixed nets before spawning. As salmon eggs mature during their upstream migration, the egg membranes harden. For this reason, in the sushi and seafood processing industries, the eggs of ocean-caught akizake—known as ginke (a term referring to autumn salmon with a silvery sheen)—are highly prized. In fact, fisheries research has confirmed that salmon egg membranes harden as the eggs mature, and it is commonly explained that “the eggs become firm once the salmon enter the river and drink freshwater.”
Sushi chefs carefully separate the salmon eggs one by one while the membranes are still soft, then marinate them in a soy sauce and mirin mixture to prepare ikura. Some restaurants, however, preserve the eggs only with salt, without using soy sauce. Neither method is considered superior; the choice depends on how the ikura is intended to pair with the sushi rice and whether it will be served as an appetizer or used for nigiri sushi. Because ikura is already seasoned with either marinade or salt, it is generally not customary to add soy sauce when eating ikura sushi.
The appeal of ikura lies in the moment when the pearls, filled with aroma and umami, burst delicately in the mouth. However, its peak season is surprisingly short. Ikura begins appearing in sushi restaurants around late August each year, but at first, the eggs are still small and lack elasticity. By around November, on the other hand, the membranes become too firm. As a result, the finest quality is generally said to be available for only about a month beginning in mid-September. Nevertheless, ikura can be served year-round because roe prepared in autumn is frozen at ultra-low temperatures and thawed as needed. Some sushi restaurants, however, prioritize seasonality and offer ikura only during the fall months.
In recent years, the return rates of pink salmon and chum salmon have declined sharply, particularly in Hokkaido. Released juvenile salmon have increasingly failed to return to their natal rivers, and the number of salmon returning to Hokkaido has continued to decline since peaking at approximately 60 million fish in 2004. Reports indicate that the figure for fiscal year 2024 fell to about 17.7 million fish, the third-lowest level since 1989. In addition, catches of chum salmon and cherry salmon in fixed-net fisheries have remained poor. According to statistics from Japan’s Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, the total catch of salmonids has fallen to roughly 20% of the level recorded 20 years ago. Rising sea temperatures and other changes in the marine environment are believed to be major contributing factors.
Alongside the decline in domestic salmon resources, the price of frozen salmon roe imported from Russia—on which Japan has long depended—has also risen due to the weak yen and reduced import volumes. As a result, the prices of ikura and masuko have surged dramatically in recent years.
【Recipe】
Preparing salmon roe is not that difficult. First, place the raw row in brine water with about 3% salt at a temperature of approximately 50°C and the eggs will separate from the ovary membrane. Now take the end of the roe and shake it so that the little pieces of roe will fall out. The eggs turn a bit white at this point, but they will turn transparent later so don’t worry. The water will also be very cloudy. Rinse gently with water until all the excess membrane and strings fall away. Once the water runs clean, leave for around 30 minutes on a bamboo sieve, allowing it to dry naturally. The drying process is very important for the broth to permeate it properly. Next, immerse it in equal parts sake and soy sauce, and leave it in the fridge overnight so that it is infused with flavor. That’s all!
【Temperature of vinegared rice (shari) and sushi toppings】
30～33℃/30～33℃
【Trivia】
It is often thought that salmon eggs of salmon swimming upstream in the river where they are born are used, but in fact, eggs that are about to hatch have hard skin and are not suitable for consumption. Salmon eggs used for the Ikura topping are from salmon caught in stationary coastal nets.
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(Revision date: May 25, 2026)