What is Shirakawa?

Out of the five types of Amadai that live in Japan, Aka-amadai, Shiro-amadai and Ki-amadai are the three types offered in the markets.

The main characteristics of Aka-amadai are its overall red body, the bright yellow color under the eyes and how part of its fin is a shiny cobalt blue color. Aka-amadai is called “Guji” in the Kansai region and is a vital part of Kyoto cuisine. Ki-amadai has the same silhouette and size as Aka-amadai, but the Ki-amadai has more yellow color in its face and tail fin. They tend to prefer sandy seafloors at depths of 30 to 300 m and live deeper than any other type of Amadai. True to its name, Shiro-amadai is a white color (Shiro means ‘white’) so is also called Shirakawa (which means ‘white skin’).

Shirakawa is considered to be the finest of the Amadai and can cost more than US $100 per kilogram. Aka-amadai costs around US $40 per kilogram. Shirakawa always ranks in the top three fish for market price. Shirakawa has more elasticity than the other two and has rich fat, making it perfect as sashimi or a sushi topping. The umami is so strong that even when served raw, the customer sometimes thinks it’s been prepared using kobujime. The fat between the meat and the skin is sweet and the skin is delicious in its own right, so it can even be eaten as sashimi with the skin left on. The famous production sites include Tsushima in Nagasaki Prefecture and Yawatahama in Ehime Prefecture. They are in season from autumn to winter. However, they say in a catch of 1,000 Amadai, you can only get one Shirakawa, so it is a rare item you won’t often see, even in a high-end sushi restaurant.

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Revision date: October 5, 2021


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What is Shiojime?

Generally, saltwater fish grow in seawater, and their bodies naturally contain a certain concentration of salt. Because seawater has a higher salinity than the fish’s internal fluids, the water in their bodies is constantly being drawn out by osmotic pressure. As this water is lost, the internal salt concentration increases. To compensate, saltwater fish actively drink large amounts of seawater and excrete the excess salt through specialized cells in their gills and kidneys. This complex osmoregulation mechanism helps them maintain a balance, which is why their flesh typically contains a high percentage of water.

This high moisture content sometimes gives the impression that the fish is “somehow watery” or lacking in firmness. However, once the fish is cooked—especially through gentle heating—the texture becomes soft and fluffy, enhancing its natural qualities.

Therefore, when preparing fish for cooking, it is often sprinkled with salt approximately 30 minutes to one hour beforehand. This process, commonly practiced by sushi chefs as well, is called Shiojime (塩締め), or salting.

Shiojime serves several purposes. First, it draws out excess moisture through the process of osmosis, which in turn concentrates the fish’s natural umami (savory) flavor.

Additionally, by removing moisture, Shiojime helps eliminate the fishy odor (commonly caused by compounds like trimethylamine), allowing the clean, delicate flavor of the fish to shine through.

Another important benefit of Shiojime is that it helps control bacteria. When salt is applied to the fish, it creates a salty (hypertonic) environment that draws water out of the bacteria on the surface. Without enough water, the bacteria can’t survive or grow. In addition, salt lowers the water activity in the fish, which makes it harder for microbes to multiply. This helps keep the fish safe to eat and slows down spoilage, making it last longer.

In traditional sushi preparation, Shiojime is often followed by Sujime (vinegar curing). The amount of vinegar that penetrates the fish depends significantly on the prior conditions established during Shiojime, making it a delicate and finely tuned process that requires experience and attention to detail.

Ultimately, Shiojime is a time-honored technique that delivers numerous benefits—enhancing flavor, improving texture, reducing odors, and increasing safety—while showcasing the depth of Japanese culinary knowledge.


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Revision date: June 12, 2025


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