Tuna was not a premium fish during the Edo period!?

A painting depicting the large tuna catch
A painting depicting the large tuna catch during the Edo period

After the Kamakura period, it was said that “the sound of the voice calling “shibi” sounds like the day of death, which is ominous,” and when power was passed to the samurai, the word “shibi” became associated with “day of death,” and if a tuna lost its life in battle, it was avoided by the samurai as a good luck charm.

Tuna was mainly caught off the coast of Choshi, and was transported to Edo by boat, then placed on a cart and transported through the city of Edo, hidden by straw mats and covered with water. Tuna is large, and the fact that they looked exactly like Dozaemon, who had been drowned, was one of the reasons they were disliked. The fat in particular spoiled quickly, falling apart, and had a strong odor.

At this time there was no ice, so tuna had to be salted. It was cut into blocks, salt was spread all over and in it, and that was it. At Uogashi (the market before Tsukiji), it was treated at shops that specialized in salting fish. The dark, discolored, salty chunks of flesh really were nothing but “Gezakana”.

Gezakana -Relatively low-cost sushi ingredients, such as gizzard shad and horse mackerel. Bluefin tuna used to be also called gezakana in the Edo period, for losing its freshness easily.

This is why they were treated as a lower-class fish, but something changed around 1804-1818. At that time, soy sauce was widely used in the Kanto region, especially in Choshi, so a preservation technique was devised in which fillets of tuna were marinated in salty soy sauce and delivered safely while still raw. Needless to say, this is what we call today’s Zuke. This encounter with soy sauce helped to popularize tuna in the Edo period.

Tuna is originally caught in the open sea. However, due to some tidal current or abnormal weather, an incident occurred where large numbers of tuna were caught in nearby waters. This happened in 1832. It is said that as many as 10,000 were caught in one day. Because so many were caught, it spread, and Edo city was overflowing with tuna. Fresher tuna began arriving in Edo than before.

Around 1810, a new type of sushi was invented in Edo by Hanaya Yohei, in which fish fillets were sold on vinegared rice. Unlike traditional sushi that is fermented (such as narezushi), Kohei’s sushi is made by placing fish meat marinated in soy sauce on top of vinegared rice.

This fast-serving style marked the birth of modern edomae sushi and helped elevate tuna from gezakana to a prized topping in Japanese cuisine.

Related contents: TYPES OF TUNA


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Revision date: June 17, 2025


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What makes a good sushi chef?

The balance between Shari (vinegar rice) and the topping is important in sushi. No matter how good the topping, the sushi won’t be good if the Shari isn’t right for it. More restaurants have been using red vinegar lately, but even if you use a Shari with a strong taste like red vinegar, the balance will be destroyed if the topping has a weaker flavor. Seasoning that goes well with various toppings that doesn’t stand out too much is ideal.

It works the other way, too. If the Shari is too weak, the sushi won’t be delicious no matter how good the topping. Even if the topping is not premium quality, if the Shari is matched perfectly, the sushi will be perfect. In other words, a good sushi chef is someone who can make sushi with perfectly matching toppings and Shari.

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Revision date: December 18, 2017


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Why do some sushi toppings contain ginger as well as wasabi?

Ginger is used for toppings with a strong, distinct taste and strong fishy smell such as bonito, horse mackerel and sardines. Ginger has the effect of eliminating odors, but be careful not to use too much, as the flavor of the seasoning may overpower the natural taste of the fish. It should be used solely to enhance the umami of the fish.

Additionally, ginger contains components such as “gingerol” and “shogaol,” which have strong antibacterial properties. These components are known to be effective against foodborne pathogens like O-157 and parasites such as anisakis.

Wasabi has a spicy taste and stimulates the senses of taste and smell and works to dull the senses so the fishy smell is not felt, but ginger is effective in actually extinguishing the fishy smell.

Because the effect of wasabi is transient and difficult to sustain, it is not a good match for fish with a peculiar odor in some respects. For this reason, it is often used with white fish that have a lighter flavor.


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Revision date: April 21, 2025


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