Do you know what kind of Sea urchin you’re eating at a sushi restaurant?

A photo of various sea urchins
The appearance of various sea urchins

Until about 20 years ago, very few people outside Japan ate uni (sea urchin), so most of the world’s sea urchin was exported to Japan. Major producing countries included Chile, the United States, Russia, and China. Japan provided technical guidance to these countries, and today they produce sea urchin of quality comparable to Japan’s.

As sushi has gained global popularity, more people have begun eating sea urchin. A video of Los Angeles Dodgers player Freddie Freeman trying sea urchin for the first time in Tokyo—encouraged by his teammates—and reacting with surprise at how delicious it was went viral. It seems likely that even more people will develop a taste for sea urchin.

At the same time, rising sea temperatures and other environmental factors have reduced the seaweed that sea urchins feed on, leading to declining catches worldwide. As a result, prices at Toyosu Market have surged. For example, on January 5, 2026, at the first auction of the year at Toyosu Market, purple sea urchin fetched a record-breaking 35 million yen in a joint bid. The uni bowl made from it reportedly cost 1.1 million yen. While this is an extreme case, the typical price for a single piece of uni gunkan-maki ranges from 500 to 5,000 yen.

Now to the main question: what types of sea urchin are actually served at sushi restaurants?

There are six edible varieties of sea urchin in Japan. One of them, shirahige uni (collector urchin), is harvested only in small quantities in warm waters such as Okinawa, so it is not served at sushi restaurants in Tokyo. The varieties commonly served at sushi restaurants are:

Closed seasons and peak harvest times vary by species. However, many sushi chefs do not clearly know which specific species they are serving. This is largely because Toyosu Market does not strictly label them by species. In practice, chefs infer the type based on season and harvest location.

Murasaki uni and Bafun uni are each further divided into two subtypes. In some regions, Murasaki uni is referred to as “kuro uni (black sea urchin)” based on its appearance. However, there is no species officially called black sea urchin—it is simply a type of Murasaki uni.

A photo of Aka uni
The appearance of aka uni

At Toyosu Market, sea urchin is typically categorized into three groups: Murasaki uni, Bafun uni, and Aka uni. This is the general commercial classification.

Broadly speaking, Murasaki uni, Bafun uni, and Aka uni prefer warmer waters and are harvested west of the Kansai region. In contrast, Kitamurasaki uni and Ezobafun uni prefer colder waters and are harvested in Hokkaido and the Tohoku region.

Fishing takes place year-round somewhere in Hokkaido, but each area has designated closed seasons. Kitamurasaki uni is not harvested on the eastern side of Hokkaido. Both Kitamurasaki uni and Ezobafun uni are harvested on the western side of Hokkaido, primarily from June through August.

The edible portion of sea urchin is the reproductive organ, which appears yellow to orange. Confusingly, in the sushi trade, Murasaki uni is sometimes referred to as “white,” while Bafun uni is called “red,” based on the color of the edible portion. Aka uni has only been commonly served at sushi restaurants for about the past decade; before that, the industry largely used the simple categories “white” and “red.” Incidentally, the “red” in Aka uni refers to the color of its shell.

A common rule of thumb is that Murasaki uni is yellow and Bafun uni is orange, but this is not absolute. Since sea urchin is often sold removed from its shell, it is actually difficult to distinguish the species visually—even though there are only five main varieties in circulation. The sea urchin sold at the first auction of 2026 was Kitamurasaki uni, not Murasaki uni. Even the media appeared to misunderstand this distinction.

In conclusion, when you visit a sushi restaurant in Tokyo, sea urchin is almost always served as a single variety in gunkan-maki style. There is a greater than 50% chance that it will be either Kitamurasaki uni or Ezobafun uni. High-end sushi restaurants may offer both varieties depending on the season. Traditional sushi establishments often prefer the lighter, more delicate flavor of Kitamurasaki uni. Restaurants with direct sourcing relationships may also serve Aka uni.

It is also common for Ezobafun uni to be labeled simply as “Bafun uni.” Even if different types were mixed, most customers would not be able to tell. If a sushi restaurant west of Kansai refers to it as Bafun uni, it is highly likely that it is indeed Bafun uni.

What is Mirin?

A photo of Mirin
The appearance of Mirin

A Complete Guide to Japan’s Essential Sweet Cooking Wine

Mirin is one of the foundational seasonings in Japanese cuisine. It is widely used in dishes such as teriyaki, simmered foods, sukiyaki, mitarashi dango, and tamagoyaki. Its ability to add gentle sweetness, depth, and a beautiful glossy finish makes it indispensable in Japanese cooking.

While mirin is rarely used in sushi restaurants, substitutes like sugar or sake are not the same. To truly understand Japanese cuisine, it helps to understand mirin properly.

What Is Mirin?

Definition

Mirin is a traditional Japanese sweet cooking wine made from glutinous rice, rice koji (rice inoculated with fermentation mold), and shochu (distilled alcohol). Unlike simple sweeteners, mirin develops its sweetness naturally through enzymatic saccharification and aging.

The result is a seasoning that provides sweetness, depth, and shine — all at once.

Alcohol Content

Authentic mirin, known as hon mirin, contains approximately 13–14% alcohol by volume. Under Japanese law, it is classified as an alcoholic beverage and is regulated accordingly.

When heated during cooking, most of the alcohol evaporates, leaving behind sweetness and flavor.

Flavor Characteristics

Mirin’s sweetness is mild and rounded rather than sharp. It comes from multiple naturally occurring sugars such as glucose and various oligosaccharides.

During cooking, mirin:

  • Adds gentle sweetness
  • Enhances depth and umami
  • Creates a glossy finish
  • Helps balance saltiness

Aging also produces amino acids and organic acids that contribute complexity and richness.

Types of Mirin

Not all mirin is the same. There are several categories available in Japan and abroad.

Hon Mirin (Authentic Mirin)

Ingredients: Glutinous rice, rice koji, shochu (or brewing alcohol)
Alcohol: About 13–14%
Salt: 0%

Hon mirin is made through traditional saccharification and aging. Some versions contain added sugar, while others rely entirely on natural enzymatic conversion. Both qualify as hon mirin if made from the core ingredients.

This type provides the most depth, gloss, and authentic flavor.

Mirin-Style Seasoning

Alcohol: Less than 1%
Salt: Less than 1%

This product was developed to avoid liquor taxes. It contains added sugars and flavor enhancers to approximate mirin’s taste.

Advantages:

  • Lower cost
  • Can be used without cooking off alcohol
  • Widely available

However, it lacks the complexity of hon mirin.

Salted Mirin (Fermented Seasoning)

Alcohol: Typically 8–14%
Salt: About 2%

Salt is added to prevent it from being classified as alcohol under tax law. Because of the salt content, seasoning adjustments are necessary when cooking.

The History of Mirin

Mirin is believed to have originated between the Warring States period and early Edo period. There is no definitive consensus on its origins, and two major theories exist.

Chinese Origin Theory

A Ming Dynasty Chinese text mentions a sweet liquor called “mi-lin (密淋),” described as sweet like dripping honey. Some scholars believe this beverage was introduced to Japan via Ryukyu and Kyushu during the Warring States period and gradually evolved into hon mirin.

Japanese Origin Theory

Japan already had sweet rice-based alcoholic drinks such as nerizake (練酒) and shirozake (白酒). Records from the 15th century describe sweet liquors brewed in Hakata.

These early drinks were sweet but prone to spoilage. The later addition of distilled alcohol (shochu) improved preservation and stability, eventually leading to modern mirin production.

From Sweet Drink to Essential Seasoning

By the mid-Edo period, mirin was popular as a sweet alcoholic beverage. As Japanese culinary culture matured, it gradually shifted from being consumed as a drink to being used as a seasoning.

By the late Edo period, records clearly show mirin being used in eel sauce and soba dipping sauce in the Kanto region. From that point forward, mirin became an essential component of Japanese cuisine.

How Hon Mirin Is Made

Hon mirin differs from sake in one crucial way: it does not rely on yeast fermentation.

Instead, shochu is added at the beginning. The alcohol activates enzymes in the rice koji, which break down starch in the glutinous rice into sugars.

Key Steps

  1. Steamed glutinous rice is prepared.
  2. Rice koji provides enzymes (amylase and protease).
  3. Shochu is added.
  4. Saccharification and aging occur over time.

During this process:

  • Amylase converts starch into sugars.
  • Protease breaks proteins into amino acids.
  • Sugars, amino acids, and organic acids interact during aging to create depth and complexity.

Pressing and Finishing

After maturation, the mash is pressed to separate:

  • Mirin liquid
  • Mirin lees

The liquid is filtered and bottled.

Traditional breweries may use wooden press methods, while modern facilities often use mechanical or centrifugal systems.

The Role of Mirin in Cooking

Mirin does far more than add sweetness.

Reduces Unwanted Odors

When heated, alcohol evaporates and helps carry away unwanted odors from meat and fish. Aging compounds also help mask strong smells.

Prevents Ingredients from Falling Apart

Sugars and alcohol interact with the surface of ingredients during cooking, helping them maintain their shape. This is especially useful in simmered dishes.

Adds Depth and Umami

Because mirin contains amino acids and organic acids, it adds more than sweetness — it enhances overall flavor complexity.

Provides Gloss and Shine

As it cooks, mirin forms a light glaze on the surface of food, creating the beautiful shine seen in teriyaki dishes.

Enhances Flavor Penetration

Alcohol helps other seasonings permeate ingredients more effectively, resulting in deeper flavor absorption.

Choosing Between Hon Mirin and Mirin-Style Seasoning

Choose Mirin-Style If:

  • You want convenience
  • You prefer lower alcohol
  • You need a budget-friendly option

Choose Hon Mirin If:

  • You want deeper flavor
  • You care about authentic results
  • You are making traditional simmered or glazed dishes

If using hon mirin without cooking, you may want to briefly simmer it first to evaporate the alcohol.

Storage Tips

After opening, store mirin in a cool, dark place or in the refrigerator. Over time, it may darken slightly — this is a natural result of maturation.

Avoid over-reducing it during cooking, as excessive heat can concentrate sweetness too much.

Availability Outside Japan

Outside Japan, hon mirin and mirin-style seasonings are typically available at Japanese grocery stores and some Asian markets.

Common substitutes such as white wine mixed with sugar or sake with added sugar may approximate sweetness, but they do not replicate mirin’s complexity, gloss, or depth.

Final Thoughts

Mirin is far more than a sweetener. It is a carefully crafted cooking wine that adds balance, shine, depth, and refinement to Japanese cuisine.

Understanding the difference between hon mirin and imitation products allows you to cook Japanese dishes with greater authenticity and precision.

What is Inaka sushi?

The appearance of Inaka sushi

What Is Inaka Sushi?

Kochi’s Inaka sushi (pronounced inaka-zushi in Japanese) is a unique style of sushi that developed in the mountainous regions of the prefecture. Unlike typical nigiri sushi (pronounced nigiri-zushi), which highlights seafood, Inaka sushi is defined by topping vinegared rice with locally harvested vegetables and wild mountain greens.

Although Kochi Prefecture faces the Pacific Ocean and is known for its seafood, Inaka sushi originated in inland areas where fresh fish was scarce. It emerged from the ingenuity of mountain communities, who created special dishes using the ingredients they had on hand. At the time, rice was a precious commodity, and sushi was mainly prepared for special occasions such as weddings, funerals, and festivals. Compared to fish-based sushi, Inaka sushi was more affordable and kept longer, eventually becoming a staple in everyday life.


Representative Ingredients

The main ingredients of Inaka sushi are familiar staples in mountain villages:

Myoga (Japanese ginger): Boiled and pickled in sweet vinegar, myoga ginger highlights its refreshing aroma and vibrant color. It is traditionally prepared to welcome guests.

Ryukyu (taro stem): Also called hasuimo, this taro variety is eaten only for its stem, which has a crisp, satisfying texture. The stems are lightly prepared to maintain their crunch.

Konjac: In areas where fried tofu was not readily available, mountain communities used konjac as a substitute. The konjac is shaped into a pouch, cut, and simmered in a sweet-savory sauce to absorb flavor.

Shiitake mushrooms: Simmered with dashi, sugar, and soy sauce to enhance their natural umami. Some recipes also include small dried fish or finely grated raw fish for a simple, rustic flavor.

Bamboo shoots and zenmai (royal fern): Seasonal mountain vegetables that appear primarily in early spring.

Each ingredient is individually seasoned and placed on slightly sweet vinegared rice, then gently pressed. While visually similar to nigiri sushi, Inaka sushi’s charm lies in its mild flavor, which allows the natural taste of the ingredients to shine. Its colorful presentation—red myoga, green ryukyu, dark shiitake, and yellow bamboo shoots—reflects the vibrant hues characteristic of Kochi’s cuisine.


Seasoning and Vinegared Rice

Inaka sushi is made with slightly sweet vinegared rice, seasoned with a balanced mix of vinegar and sugar. The toppings are often simmered in a sweet-savory sauce, creating a gentle, rounded flavor profile. Rather than relying on strong saltiness or fatty richness, the dish is defined by the harmony of dashi and sweet vinegar. In Kochi, citrus fruits such as yuzu are sometimes added to the sushi vinegar, giving the rice a subtle aromatic note.


Role as Festive Food

Traditionally, Inaka sushi was prepared not for daily meals, but for special occasions such as festivals, celebrations, or visits from guests. The sight of community members arranging colorful sushi on large platters symbolizes the cooperative culture of mountain villages. Today, Inaka sushi can be enjoyed at local restaurants, farmers’ markets, and specialty shops throughout the prefecture, including around Kochi City, making it accessible for both locals and tourists.


Modern Significance

Inaka sushi is often plant-based, making it well-suited for vegans and vegetarians. However, its essence lies not in replacing fish-based sushi, but in the creativity and resourcefulness of mountain communities using local ingredients. As a “mountain sushi” distinct from ocean-based nigiri, Inaka sushi reflects the climate, landscape, and daily life of Kochi, representing a unique regional food culture.

What is Tetramine poisoning?

The snails of the genera Ezobora and Ezobai are collectively called “tsubu” or “bai,” with over 30 species available in the market.

A photo of Ezoboro (Matsubu)
The appearance of Ezoboro (Matsubu)

The “salivary glands (commonly called ‘abura’)” of Ezobora species like Matsubu (Neptunea polycostata Scarlato,1952),  Ezoboramodoki (Neptunea intersculpta (Sowerby Ⅲ,1899)), Kuriiroezobora (Neptunea cf. lamellosa Golikov,1962), Atsuezobora (Neptunea heros (Gray,1850)), Chijimiezobora (Neptunea constricta (Dall,1907)),  and Aotsubu (Neptunea (Barbitonia) arthritica (Bernardi,1857)) contain a toxin called “tetramine.”

Tetramine poisoning occurs when Tsubu snails are consumed without removing the salivary glands. This toxin does not break down with heating, so proper removal of the salivary glands before cooking is essential, regardless of whether the snails are eaten raw or cooked.

Symptoms typically appear about 30 minutes after consumption and include visual disturbances such as double vision, dizziness, headache, and a sensation of seasickness. While there have been no fatalities to date, and recovery usually occurs within a few hours, symptoms can be severe in some individuals.

What is Shojin Ryori?

A photo of Shojin ryouri
The appearance of shojin ryouri

What is Shojin Ryori?

When people hear “Shojin Ryori,” some might imagine a simple meal with just one soup and one dish. On the other hand, thanks to media coverage, others might picture luxurious, elaborate cuisine. Shojin Ryori began as the meals of Buddhist monks, which seem quite simple at first glance. However, dishes served as offerings to the Buddha or for special occasions—called “Hare” meals, traditional celebratory menus—can be elaborate enough to rival kaiseki cuisine at high-end Japanese restaurants.

This guide will help you understand the essence of Shojin Ryori and experience its depth firsthand.


What is Shojin?

The term “Shojin” (精進) comes either from Shoshojin (正精進), one of the Eightfold Paths taught by Shakyamuni Buddha to escape life’s suffering, or from Shojin, one of the Six Paramitas in Mahayana Buddhism.

  • Shoshojin in the Eightfold Path: Shoken (正見), Shoshiyui (正思惟), Shogo (正語), Shogyou (正業), Shomyou (正命), Shoshojin (正精進), Shonen (正念), Shojo (正定)

  • Shojin in the Six Paramitas: Fuse (布施), Jikai (持戒), Ninniku (忍辱), Shojin (精進), Zenjo (禅定), Chie (智慧)

The concept corresponds to the ancient Indian Sanskrit term “Virya,” meaning “the mental effort to abandon harmful deeds and cultivate good ones” or “the single-minded pursuit of the Buddha Way without distraction.” Though hard for most people to grasp, it basically means not being lax—to devote oneself wholeheartedly to Buddhist practice.

Shojin Ryori—the cuisine that developed to support the health of practicing monks—is more than just vegetarian food. It is part of spiritual cultivation. Its purpose is not to indulge the taste buds, but to purify the mind and body and support practice. Every aspect—from ingredient selection and cooking methods to presentation and the act of eating—is an extension of the practice itself.


The Five Precepts (Gokai)

Shojin Ryori is rooted in the Five Precepts (五戒) that monks and Buddhists follow:

  1. Fuseshokai(不殺生戒): Do not harm living beings → no meat or fish

  2. Fuchutoukai(不偸盗戒): Do not steal

  3. Fujainkai(不邪淫戒): Avoid improper sexual conduct

  4. Fumougokai(不妄語戒): Do not lie

  5. Fuonjukai(不飲酒戒): Do not drink alcohol

Many Zen temples also have signs at their gates warning, No entry for those consuming strong-smelling vegetables or alcohol (不許入葷酒山門).” These pungent vegetables—garlic, leeks, shallots, onions, and chives—along with alcohol, are avoided because they can hinder spiritual practice.


What is Gokun (五葷)?

Shojin Ryori avoids:

  • Birds, beasts, fish, and shellfish

  • The five pungent vegetables (garlic, leeks, shallots, onions, and chives)

Instead, it focuses on vegetables, beans, tofu, seaweed, and grains. Flavor, texture, and appearance are carefully balanced through cooking techniques and presentation. In short, Shojin Ryori is more than just meat-free cuisine; it is food designed to calm the mind and support spiritual practice. Originating in Mahayana Buddhism, it spread from India to China, Korea, and Japan.


Historical Development in Japan

Shojin Ryori began as a simple, austere diet guided by religious taboos. Over time, Japanese culinary sensibilities transformed it into a refined cuisine with vegetables as the stars of each dish.

From the Kamakura period onward, influenced by Zen Buddhism, Shojin Ryori became more sophisticated. Broths incorporated kombu and dried shiitake mushrooms, and soy-based items like goma tofu (sesame tofu), yuba (tofu skin), and ganmodoki (fried soybean patties) flourished. Techniques were refined to maximize umami, texture, and visual appeal—all without animal ingredients.

Shojin Ryori also influenced the development of kaiseki cuisine in the tea ceremony, becoming a cornerstone of Japanese culinary tradition. Today, its legacy continues primarily in Kyoto, in temples and specialty restaurants.


Modern Practice and Tourist Experience

Over time, meals consumed by laypeople during Buddhist ceremonies or celebrations also came to be called “Shojin Ryori,” broadening its meaning.

Today, Shojin Ryori is recognized not just as a religious practice but also as the origin of vegan and plant-based cuisine. Its true essence lies in honoring life, calming the mind, and harmonizing with nature, not merely following dietary restrictions.

Visitors can also enjoy Shojin Ryori as a tourist experience, such as Shojin Kaiseki at temple lodgings. These visually striking, multi-course meals—featuring tofu, vegetables, and seaweed prepared in various ways—offer a unique cultural experience enjoyed by visitors.

Staying at historic sites like Koyasan provides an opportunity to experience the spirit of ascetic practice and Japanese Buddhist culture through Shojin Ryori.

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