Higashi Chaya District is a beautifully preserved geisha district where visitors can experience the atmosphere of old Kanazawa.
Kanazawa’s Rich Food Culture and Sushi Tradition
In the early 17th century, when Tokugawa Ieyasu brought an end to the long era of civil war, Japan entered the peaceful Edo period, which lasted for approximately 260 years. Edo (present-day Tokyo), the political, economic, and cultural center of the country, developed into one of the world’s largest cities, with a population exceeding one million. Meanwhile, Kanazawa flourished as Japan’s fourth-largest city, after Edo, Osaka, and Kyoto.
At that time, the Kaga Domain, centered on Kanazawa, boasted the largest kokudaka (rice yield) in Japan and amassed such wealth that it came to be known as “Kaga Hyakumangoku” (Kaga’s One Million Koku). Successive feudal lords actively protected and promoted culture and the arts, leading to the development of magnificent gardens such as Kenroku-en, as well as the flourishing of Noh theater and the tea ceremony. Even today, visitors can enjoy a city where history and modern culture exist in harmony, with attractions including the Higashi Chaya District, the Nagamachi Samurai District, Kanazawa Castle, Kenroku-en Garden, Omicho Market, and the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, Kanazawa.
Nurtured by this rich history, Kanazawa has also become one of Japan’s premier culinary destinations. The city’s food culture—a blend of Kaga cuisine inherited from the Kaga Domain era, fresh seafood from the Sea of Japan, and abundant seasonal ingredients—continues to captivate visitors from around the world. Furthermore, because successive feudal lords encouraged the tea ceremony, Kanazawa developed into one of Japan’s Three Great Confectionery Capitals, alongside Kyoto and Matsue. As a result, the tradition of beautifully crafted Japanese sweets has been preserved and continues to thrive today.
If you visit Kanazawa, sushi is a must-try. Off the coast of Ishikawa Prefecture, the warm Tsushima Current meets the cold Liman Current, while the deep waters are filled with the nutrient-rich, cold Sea of Japan Proper Water. These favorable marine conditions allow both warm-water and cold-water fish and shellfish to thrive, resulting in an exceptionally diverse catch throughout the year. Thanks to the outstanding quality of its seafood, Ishikawa Prefecture is recognized as one of Japan’s leading fishing regions, supplying fresh seafood to markets across the country, including Tokyo and Osaka.
Kanazawa offers an incredible variety of delicious sushi toppings. Kano crab (Ishikawa’s premium branded male snow crab)—the king of winter delicacies—along with rich, fatty winter yellowtail and nodoguro (blackthroat seaperch), often called “the toro of white fish,” are among the city’s most famous specialties and are highly recommended at many sushi restaurants. However, rather than focusing on these well-known favorites, this article introduces five distinctive sushi toppings that are a little less familiar but well worth seeking out—unique local delicacies you’ll want to experience while you’re in Kanazawa.
5 Unique Sushi Toppings You Should Try in Kanazawa
Gasu Shrimp (Gasu Ebi)
Gasu shrimp, officially known as Kurozako shrimp (Argis lar or Argis toyamaensis), is one of Kanazawa’s best-kept culinary secrets. Most of the shrimp served in Kanazawa are caught by bottom trawlers off the Noto Peninsula.
Although its brownish shell and rugged appearance are far less attractive than the familiar sweet shrimp (amaebi), locals often say that its flavor surpasses even amaebi. The flesh is exceptionally firm and springy, with a rich sweetness and deep umami that slowly spreads across the palate.
Because Gasu shrimp deteriorates very quickly after being caught, it is rarely shipped outside the Hokuriku region. This makes Kanazawa one of the very few places where you can enjoy it at its freshest, especially as nigiri sushi.
Best season: September–May (especially winter)
Female Snow Crab (Koubako-gani)
Koubako-gani is the female snow crab and one of Kanazawa’s most treasured winter delicacies.
Although much smaller than the male snow crab, it is prized for its rich crab miso, sweet meat, and flavorful orange roe. Many sushi restaurants carefully prepare it as gunkan-maki or nigiri during the short fishing season.
Koubako-gani is also one of the signature ingredients of Kanazawa oden, making it a unique delicacy that can be enjoyed in both sushi restaurants and traditional oden shops.
To protect the species, the fishing season is strictly limited and ends in late December. While frozen Koubako-gani may still be available afterward, those who want to experience its finest flavor should visit during the short fresh season.
Best season: November–December
Konaganishi
Konaganishi (Fusinus ferrugineus) grows to about 10 cm in shell length. It is one of the smaller species of spindle snails and inhabits shallow sandy seabeds along the Sea of Japan coast, from Mutsu Bay in Aomori Prefecture to Kyushu.
In Nanao, Ishikawa Prefecture, Konaganishi has long been known locally as akanishi. For this reason, it is often labeled simply as “akanishi” on English menus or in travel guides because the local name is more familiar than the species’ official Japanese name. However, the shellfish served in Kanazawa is actually Konaganishi (Fusinus ferrugineus), which is different from the true Akanishi (Rapana venosa).
Its firm yet tender texture and rich natural sweetness become more pronounced with every bite. Because it is rarely served as sushi outside the Hokuriku region, many sushi lovers visit Kanazawa specifically to experience this unique local delicacy.
Best season: Available year-round (best from autumn to spring)
Noto Pufferfish (Mainly Gomafugu)
Noto pufferfish is one of Kanazawa’s finest local seafood specialties. Ishikawa Prefecture ranks among Japan’s leading producers of wild pufferfish, with a variety of species landed along the coast of the Noto Peninsula.
Because the fish is landed locally, visitors can enjoy high-quality wild pufferfish at surprisingly reasonable prices. Depending on the season and the restaurant, sushi chefs may serve species such as gomafugu, mafugu, or shirosabafugu, each offering a delicate sweetness, mild flavor, and pleasantly firm texture.
Although tiger pufferfish (torafugu) is the best known internationally, many locals consider these wild Noto pufferfish to be just as delicious. Prepared as nigiri sushi, they offer an authentic taste of the Sea of Japan that is difficult to experience elsewhere.
Best season: Autumn–Winter
Whelk (Baigai / Echubai)
Baigai is the collective name for several sea snails of the family Buccinidae. In Kanazawa, however, the name almost always refers to Etchubai (Buccinum striatissimum), a deep-sea snail that inhabits sandy and muddy seabeds at depths of 200–500 meters (660–1,640 ft) in the Sea of Japan.
Baigai is one of Kanazawa’s most popular local seafoods and is commonly found at fish markets, sushi restaurants, and traditional eateries. As nigiri sushi, it is prized for its pleasantly crunchy texture, delicate sweetness, and rich umami. It is also enjoyed simmered in soy sauce (tsuboyaki-style) or as one of the signature ingredients of Kanazawa oden, where it pairs beautifully with the light, savory broth.
The fishing season runs from September to June, with the finest quality available during winter. Because its Japanese name, bai, sounds like the word for “double,” it is also regarded as a lucky food symbolizing double the good fortune.
Best season: September–June (especially winter)
Manjugai
Manjugai (Megangulus venulosus) is commonly known as Shirogai or Saragai in most parts of Japan. In Kanazawa, however, it is traditionally called Manjugai and has long been prized as a premium sushi topping.
As local catches in Ishikawa have declined in recent years, much of the Manjugai served in Kanazawa is now sourced from Hokkaido and other parts of Japan, where it is often caught as bycatch during surf clam (hokkigai) fishing. Even so, demand remains strong, reflecting the clam’s enduring popularity among Kanazawa’s sushi lovers.
As nigiri sushi, Manjugai is prized for its crisp, springy texture and delicate natural sweetness. While it has long been a favorite sushi topping in Kanazawa, it has never become particularly popular in the Kanto region, including Tokyo. This regional difference makes Manju-gai one of Kanazawa’s most distinctive local specialties.
Best season: Spring–Summer
Final Tips for Enjoying Kanazawa Sushi
Not every sushi restaurant in Kanazawa serves all of these local specialties. Availability depends on the season, the day’s catch, and sea conditions. During winter, rough seas on the Sea of Japan often prevent fishing boats from going out, making some seafood unexpectedly scarce. If there’s a particular sushi topping you’re hoping to try, contact the restaurant in advance or ask them to set it aside when you make your reservation. And if you spot one of these seasonal delicacies on the menu, don’t pass it up—you may not get another opportunity to enjoy it at its absolute best.
Shirogane Blue Pond was made by accident, as a by-product of attempts to control mudslides. Aluminium that has seeped into the water scatters the sunlight, causing the pond to look blue.
Hokkaido is one of Japan’s greatest culinary destinations. In addition to its majestic nature, hot springs, and breathtaking seasonal scenery, it is the exceptionally fresh sushi and seafood that captivate so many travelers.
Some people may wonder, “Since seafood from all over Japan is gathered at Toyosu Market, wouldn’t it be the same even if I go to Hokkaido?” In reality, however, many fish species are available only in Hokkaido, while others are caught in such limited quantities that they are consumed almost entirely locally. As a result, many sushi toppings can only be enjoyed at local sushi restaurants.
In this article, we’ll introduce sushi toppings you’ll definitely want to try when visiting Hokkaido, along with their rarity ratings. When dining at a sushi restaurant during your trip, it’s worth asking, “Do you have this today?” even if it’s not listed on the menu.
Must-Try Sushi Toppings in Hokkaido: Wild Salmon Edition
In Hokkaido, you can experience the unique flavor of wild-caught salmon, which is truly a cut above the ordinary. It is not uncommon for salmon varieties that are available only in limited quantities, even at high-end sushi restaurants in Tokyo, to be relatively easy to find in Hokkaido.
Tokishirazu (Rarity: ★☆☆)
Season: April–June
“Tokishirazu” (also known as “Toki-sake”) refers to chum salmon (shirozake) caught off the coast of Hokkaido during the off-season—from spring through early summer (April to June)—even though they normally return to rivers in autumn to spawn. Most of these fish are immature salmon born in Russian rivers, such as the Amur River, that migrate through the Pacific Ocean.
Because they have not yet spawned, they have not used their energy to produce roe or milt, unlike autumn salmon. As a result, their flesh is plump, tender, and rich in fat. Thanks to its rich umami and refined flavor, Tokishirazu is regarded as one of Hokkaido’s finest luxury sushi toppings.
Keiji (Rarity: ★★★)
Season: Around November
Keiji is an exceptionally rare immature chum salmon known as the “phantom salmon.” Only one or two fish are caught out of every 10,000. The name refers to immature salmon whose roe and milt have not yet developed, caught primarily around Rausu on Hokkaido’s Shiretoko Peninsula and off the coast of Abashiri.
Its flesh has a high fat content and a concentrated umami flavor. The fine-grained texture is moist and tender, delivering a rich, deep flavor with an unexpectedly clean finish.
Because of its extreme rarity, only a very limited quantity reaches the market, and even high-end sushi restaurants receive it only occasionally. It may sell for tens of thousands of yen per kilogram, with a single fish sometimes fetching more than ¥100,000. If you happen to find Keiji at a sushi restaurant during your trip to Hokkaido, don’t miss the opportunity to try it.
Masunosuke (Rarity: ★★☆)
Season: April–June
King salmon is one of the largest members of the salmon family and is known in Japan as “Masunosuke.”
Although it is recognized worldwide as a premium fish, wild Masunosuke is caught only in limited quantities, making opportunities to enjoy it as sushi in Japan quite rare.
Its high fat content, full-bodied flavor, and intense umami truly make it worthy of the title “King of Salmon.”
While farmed King salmon is produced in countries such as New Zealand, the wild Masunosuke caught in Hokkaido is considered far rarer.
Chip (Rarity: ★★☆)
Season: June–August
Chip (Himemasu) is a lake-resident sockeye salmon that inhabits Lake Shikotsu. Unlike most salmon, it spends its entire life in the lake, and fishing is permitted for only about three months each summer.
Because catches are extremely limited, most Chip is consumed around Lake Shikotsu and within Chitose City, and it is rarely distributed outside Hokkaido.
Lake Shikotsu is renowned as one of Japan’s clearest lakes. The Chip raised there is prized for its clean flavor and refined umami, allowing visitors to appreciate the delicate taste unique to wild salmon.
Only in Hokkaido Can You Savor Wild Salmon
In major cities such as Tokyo, these wild salmon varieties are served only at select high-end sushi restaurants, and their availability is unpredictable. In many cases, you won’t be able to try them unless you make a reservation well in advance.
In Hokkaido, however, wild salmon can be enjoyed not only at sushi restaurants in Sapporo and Otaru but also at conveyor-belt sushi restaurants during the peak season.
Must-Try Sushi Toppings in Hokkaido: Shrimp Edition
When it comes to Hokkaido’s signature sushi toppings, salmon isn’t the only option. Shrimp from the cold waters of Hokkaido are known for their intense sweetness and rich umami flavor. Many of these varieties are rare, with limited distribution even within Japan, making them a must-try when visiting Hokkaido.
Grape Shrimp (Rarity: ★★★)
Season: Summer
Also known as the “phantom shrimp,” the Grape Shrimp is an extremely rare species found only in Japan. It is primarily caught around the Shiretoko Peninsula, particularly off the coast of Rausu, and the annual catch is extremely limited. Its name comes from its deep grape-colored shell, reminiscent of red wine.
While it looks very similar to the button shrimp, its flesh is even richer, characterized by a melt-in-your-mouth sweetness and deep umami flavor.
One reason grape shrimp are so rare is their low reproductive capacity. While button shrimp carry several thousand tiny eggs, grape shrimp carry only about 100 large eggs. As a result, their population grows very slowly, and catch volumes remain extremely limited.
Even in Hokkaido, they are rarely available except during the summer season, making them a delicacy that is seldom found even at high-end sushi restaurants. If you happen to find them at a sushi restaurant, be sure to try them—they are one of Hokkaido’s most representative and rare sushi ingredients.
Sweet Shrimp
Season: Year-round (Best in Early Spring)
Hokkaido is one of Japan’s leading producers of sweet shrimp. In particular, the Sea of Japan off the coast of Mashike Town is a nutrient-rich fishing ground where warm and cold ocean currents meet. Because they grow slowly in the cold water, the sweet shrimp caught here have firm flesh and a rich, sweet flavor.
Since the fishing season varies by region, you can enjoy fresh sweet shrimp year-round. However, they are especially delicious in early spring, when live sweet shrimp caught early in the morning are served at their freshest. Their translucent flesh and melt-in-your-mouth sweetness are truly exceptional.
Due to their high quality, Hokkaido sweet shrimp are shipped to the Toyosu Market almost daily. However, one of the greatest attractions of local sushi restaurants is the opportunity to savor shrimp served shortly after being landed. The delicate sweetness of freshly caught sweet shrimp is something that can truly only be experienced in Hokkaido.
Toyama Shrimp
Season: Spring & Autumn
One of Hokkaido’s most prized premium shrimp is the Toyama shrimp. Many of the shrimp served as botan shrimp at high-end sushi restaurants are actually Toyama shrimp from Hokkaido, highly regarded for their rich sweetness and deep umami flavor.
The fishing season in Hokkaido opens in March and reaches its peak around April. During this season, they have translucent vermilion shells with distinct white spots, offering a pleasantly firm texture and an elegant sweetness.
From early September through around November, Toyama shrimp carrying emerald-green roe are caught. Not only are they visually striking, but the popping texture of the roe and its rich umami flavor make them a highly anticipated seasonal delicacy.
When served as nigiri sushi, one of the highlights is enjoying both the intensely sweet flesh and the rich shrimp miso together. Since you can experience distinct seasonal flavors in both spring and autumn, Toyama shrimp is undoubtedly one of the sushi toppings you should try when visiting Hokkaido.
Hokkai Shima Shrimp (Rarity: ★★☆)
Season: Summer
Hokkai Shima Shrimp is a rare shrimp species caught only in limited areas of eastern Hokkaido, such as the Notsuke Peninsula and Lake Saroma.
They are typically boiled in salted water immediately after being landed and are enjoyed as one of Hokkaido’s signature local delicacies.
They are occasionally served as nigiri sushi at local sushi restaurants, where you can enjoy their concentrated sweetness and pleasantly springy texture.
Must-Try Sushi Toppings in Hokkaido: White-fleshed Fish Edition
In Hokkaido, you can discover many white-fleshed fish that are rarely found elsewhere in Japan. Raised in the cold northern waters, these fish develop high-quality fat and a delicate yet rich umami flavor.
Hakkaku (Rarity: ★★☆)
Season: January–March
As its name suggests, Hakkaku is a fish with a distinctive appearance, featuring horn-like protrusions. While its unusual look may put some people off, it is highly regarded in Hokkaido as an exceptionally delicious white-fleshed fish.
Its fatty flesh is rich in umami, and when served as nigiri sushi, its refined sweetness truly shines.
It was once widely available at affordable prices in Hokkaido, but as its delicious flavor has become better known, its popularity has grown in recent years.
Ohyo (Rarity: ★★☆)
Season: Year-round (Best in Winter)
Ohyo is one of the world’s largest flatfish species and can grow to more than 2 meters in length.
Its flesh has a mild flavor, but when exceptionally fresh, it offers a delicate sweetness. Its umami is enhanced even further when prepared as kobujime (kelp-cured sashimi).
Because fish fresh enough to be served raw is rarely distributed outside Hokkaido, Ohyo is a sushi topping that is difficult to find in Tokyo and other parts of Japan.
Matsukawa (Rarity: ★☆☆)
Season: Winter
Matsukawa is a highly prized luxury fish. In Japan, people often say, “Winter flounder is excellent, but winter Matsukawa is in a league of its own.”
During winter, it develops an abundance of high-quality fat, giving it a rich, concentrated umami flavor. It is outstanding not only as nigiri sushi but also when prepared as kobujime or served with lightly seared engawa (fin muscle).
In Hokkaido, artificial stock enhancement programs help conserve the species, and although catches have increased compared with the past, Matsukawa remains a rare fish throughout Japan.
Other Hokkaido White Fish Worth Trying
Hokkaido is also home to many other outstanding white-fleshed fish. Mazoi, in particular, is rarely targeted by commercial fisheries, so it seldom appears in large quantities at fish markets. If you happen to find it at a sushi restaurant, it’s definitely worth ordering.
Menuki (Rarity: ★★☆)
Mazoi (Rarity: ★★★)
Kurosoi (Rarity: ★★☆)
Kinki
Because these fish grow in cold waters, they develop high-quality fat and are known for their exceptionally rich umami flavor.
Hon-Shishamo (Rarity: ★★★): A Delicacy Exclusive to Hokkaido
One sushi topping you absolutely must try when visiting Hokkaido is Hon-Shishamo.
The “shishamo with roe” commonly found at izakayas and supermarkets is, in most cases, actually Karafuto shishamo (capelin). By contrast, the true shishamo is a species endemic to Japan that is found only along Hokkaido’s Pacific coast. To distinguish it from imported Karafuto shishamo, it is commonly called Hon-Shishamo.
The difference between the two is reflected in their prices. While Karafuto shishamo sold in supermarkets typically costs around ¥30–60 per fish, Hon-Shishamo is considered a premium fish and generally sells for around ¥250–400 per fish—more than four times as much.
Because Hon-Shishamo loses its freshness very quickly, it is difficult to distribute raw. Even in Hokkaido, only a limited number of restaurants serve it as sushi or sashimi. Its fishing season is also short, lasting only from around October to November, making it one of Hokkaido’s most highly anticipated seasonal delicacies.
If you visit a sushi restaurant in Hokkaido, it’s worth asking, “Do you have Hon-Shishamo today?” even if it isn’t listed on the menu. Since some restaurants purchase it specifically for regular customers who make advance reservations, it’s not uncommon for them to have it available without listing it on the menu.
The appeal of Hon-Shishamo extends beyond sushi. Overnight-dried male Hon-Shishamo is one of Hokkaido’s signature local delicacies, prized for its concentrated umami, lightly toasted aroma, and the refined sweetness of its rich fat. When you visit Hokkaido, be sure to enjoy it alongside sushi.
Even If It’s Not on the Menu, Be Sure to Ask
Many of the seafood items featured here are not always listed on the menu because they are caught only in limited quantities.
Some are sourced specifically for reservations made by regular customers, while others are offered only as the day’s special.
When you visit a sushi restaurant in Hokkaido, try asking, “Do you have any rare fish today?” You might discover a unique local delicacy that you won’t find anywhere else.
Why Can You Enjoy Rare Sushi Toppings in Hokkaido?
So far, we’ve introduced a variety of sushi toppings unique to Hokkaido.
Some of you may be wondering, “Since fish from all over Japan is shipped to Toyosu Market, can’t you enjoy these without traveling to Hokkaido?”
Seafood from across Japan is indeed gathered at markets in Tokyo. However, there are still many sushi toppings that can only be enjoyed in Hokkaido. The reason lies in how Japan’s seafood distribution system works.
Markets Prioritize Fish with a Stable Supply
Seafood is generally shipped to the markets where it commands the highest prices. As a result, Toyosu Market receives an exceptional variety of high-quality seafood from across Japan.
However, quality isn’t the only factor buyers consider.
For wholesalers and sushi restaurants, one of the most important considerations is being able to obtain the fish they need consistently and in sufficient quantities.
For example, fish such as maguro (tuna), tai (sea bream), and hirame (flounder), which are available throughout the year, are essential menu items at many sushi restaurants. In contrast, fish that are caught only in small numbers or are available for just a few weeks each year are difficult to offer as regular menu items.
Rare Fish Are Often Consumed Locally
The same is true for fishermen.
Even if a rare fish is caught, shipping it over long distances is often impractical unless there is consistent demand. This is especially true for fish that lose their freshness quickly.
As a result, fish caught in very small quantities are often consumed locally rather than being shipped to distant markets.
In recent years, direct shipping systems connecting fishing ports and sushi restaurants have become increasingly common. However, transportation costs, logistics, and limited demand mean that not every type of fish is distributed nationwide.
That’s exactly why sushi restaurants in Hokkaido are able to serve fish that are rarely found in Tokyo.
Why Hokkaido Is One of Japan’s Leading Fishing Grounds
Why do so many fish and shellfish thrive in the waters around Hokkaido?
There isn’t just one reason. A unique combination of natural conditions—including ocean currents, seabed topography, rivers, and even winter drift ice—has created one of the world’s richest fishing grounds.
The Oyashio Current Brings Abundant Nutrients
Along Hokkaido’s Pacific coast and the Sea of Okhotsk, the cold Oyashio Current (Kuril Current) flows southward from the north.
The Oyashio Current is rich in nutrients such as nitrogen and phosphorus, creating an ideal environment for phytoplankton to flourish.
Phytoplankton form the foundation of the marine food chain.
Zooplankton feed on phytoplankton, small fish feed on zooplankton, and larger species—including salmon, flounder, cod, and crabs—feed on these smaller fish.
Hokkaido’s abundant fishing grounds are sustained by this rich and productive food chain.
A Vast Continental Shelf Supports Marine Life
Another defining feature of the seas surrounding Hokkaido is their broad continental shelf and relatively shallow waters.
Because sunlight can easily reach the seafloor in these shallow areas, phytoplankton can photosynthesize efficiently.
In addition, ocean currents and the uneven seabed continually mix the water, bringing nutrient-rich deep water closer to the surface.
Together, these conditions create an ideal environment for a remarkable diversity of fish and shellfish to thrive.
Nutrients Flow from the Forests to the Sea
Hokkaido is home to many major rivers, including the Ishikari and Tokachi Rivers.
Rain that falls in the mountains flows through forests, carrying nutrients downstream before eventually reaching the sea.
These nutrients enrich coastal ecosystems and help sustain Hokkaido’s productive fishing grounds.
In Hokkaido, people often say, “Rich forests create a rich ocean.” This is far more than just a metaphor—it reflects the close relationship between healthy forests and abundant marine life.
Drift Ice Makes the Sea of Okhotsk Even Richer
One natural phenomenon unique to Hokkaido is the drift ice that arrives in the Sea of Okhotsk each winter.
Drift ice is much more than frozen seawater.
Phytoplankton and nutrients become trapped within the ice and on its surface. When the ice melts in spring, these nutrients are released into the sea, triggering a massive spring phytoplankton bloom.
Zooplankton and small fish feed on this abundant plankton, and the food chain continues upward to support salmon, scallops, sea urchins, crabs, and many other marine species.
In this way, drift ice acts as a natural source of nutrients, replenishing the Sea of Okhotsk every year.
Savor Hokkaido’s Seasonal and Local Specialties
The appeal of sushi in Hokkaido isn’t simply its freshness.
Its true charm lies in discovering seafood that can only be found in this region and enjoyed during a particular season.
These are rare sushi toppings and seafood delicacies that are difficult to find elsewhere in Japan. That’s exactly why a visit to Hokkaido offers a truly special dining experience.
Even if a particular fish isn’t listed on the menu, the restaurant may still have it available if it was caught that day or purchased specifically for regular customers.
Ask the sushi chef, “What do you recommend today?” or “Do you have any rare fish today?” You may discover a seasonal delicacy you’ve never tasted before.
Sushi in Hokkaido is more than just a meal—it’s an opportunity to experience the changing seasons and the extraordinary natural environment that has made Hokkaido’s waters some of the richest fishing grounds in the world.
Toyama Bay, with the Tateyama Mountain Range towering above it as if floating on the water
Toyama Prefecture is widely regarded as one of Japan’s best destinations for sushi.
The secret lies in Toyama Bay, whose unique geography creates one of the richest fishing grounds in the country. Combined with exceptionally fresh seasonal seafood, it has earned Toyama a reputation as a paradise for sushi lovers.
Today, many of the seafood varieties introduced in this article can also be found in cities such as Tokyo and Osaka thanks to modern distribution networks. However, nothing compares to enjoying them in Toyama, where the time from catch to sushi is remarkably short.
In this guide, we’ll introduce the must-try sushi in Toyama and explain why Toyama Bay is often called a natural fish preserve.
Best Sushi in Toyama: 8 Must-Try Local Specialties
1. White Shrimp (Shiro Ebi)
Known as the “Jewel of Toyama Bay,” white shrimp is Toyama’s signature seafood.
Its translucent flesh offers an elegant sweetness and a delicate, melt-in-your-mouth texture.
Since most of Japan’s white shrimp are caught in Toyama Bay, fresh white shrimp nigiri is one of Toyama’s most iconic sushi experiences.
Best season: April–November (especially May–July)
2. Firefly Squid (Hotaru Ika)
Firefly squid is one of the signature delicacies of spring in Toyama Bay.
During the spawning season, they gather close to shore, allowing restaurants to serve them at exceptional freshness. Their rich umami and subtle sweetness make them a seasonal favorite.
Many sushi restaurants offer them raw, lightly boiled, or marinated, each showcasing a different flavor.
Enjoying sushi made with freshly caught firefly squid is one of Toyama’s unique spring experiences.
Best season: March–May (especially April)
3. Himi Winter Yellowtail (Himi Kanburi)
Himi Winter Yellowtail is Toyama’s most famous winter delicacy.
Wild yellowtail spend months feeding in the nutrient-rich waters around Hokkaido before migrating south along the Noto Peninsula. They are caught in fixed nets as they enter Toyama Bay.
Only well-fattened wild yellowtail that meet strict quality standards and are landed at Himi Fishing Port are certified as Himi Kanburi.
Its firm texture, refined richness, and clean finish make it one of Japan’s finest winter fish.
The exceptional freshness available in Toyama enhances the sweetness of the fat and the fish’s elegant umami.
Best season: November–February (especially December–January)
4. Red Snow Crab (Benizuwai-gani)
Caught in the deep waters of Toyama Bay, red snow crab is prized for its delicate sweetness and tender meat.
Because the fishing grounds lie close to the coast, the crabs are landed and brought to market quickly, preserving their outstanding freshness.
Enjoying red snow crab as nigiri sushi is one of the unique pleasures of visiting Toyama.
Best season: September–May (especially autumn and winter)
5. Whelks (Bai-gai)
Toyama Bay is home to four different species of edible whelks, including Oo-Echuu-bai, Kagabai, Tsubai, and Chijimi Ezo-bora.
Few regions in Japan enjoy such variety.
These shellfish have long been a local favorite and are appreciated for their pleasantly firm texture and deep umami that becomes more pronounced with every bite.
Best season: Available year-round (especially spring to early summer)
6. Cherry Salmon (Sakura Masu)
Cherry salmon is one of Toyama’s premium spring fish.
Born in rivers, it migrates to the sea, where it grows by feeding in the nutrient-rich waters of Toyama Bay before returning upstream to spawn.
Its beautiful cherry-pink flesh has a delicate sweetness, refined richness, and just the right amount of fat.
This seasonal delicacy reflects Toyama’s unique geography, where towering mountains and the sea exist side by side.
Best season: March–May
7. Blackthroat Seaperch (Nodoguro)
Often called “the toro of white-fleshed fish,” nodoguro is one of Japan’s most prized luxury fish.
Although it has delicate white flesh, it contains an exceptional amount of fat, creating an incredibly rich, buttery texture.
It is often lightly seared, allowing its smoky aroma to perfectly complement its natural sweetness.
Best season: September–December
8. Gasu Shrimp (Gasu Ebi)
Gasu shrimp is a rare deep-sea shrimp found in Toyama Bay.
Although it resembles sweet shrimp (amaebi), it has an even richer sweetness and an incredibly creamy texture.
Because it deteriorates quickly after being caught, it is rarely shipped outside Toyama, earning it the nickname “the phantom shrimp.”
If you find it on a sushi menu, don’t miss the opportunity to try one of Toyama’s best-kept culinary secrets.
Best season: September–May (especially winter)
Why Is Toyama Sushi So Good?
The secret behind Toyama’s outstanding sushi is its extraordinary natural environment.
Deep Water Just Offshore
Just a few kilometers from the coastline, Toyama Bay plunges to depths of more than 1,000 meters.
This unique underwater geography allows both coastal species and deep-sea fish to thrive in the same waters.
The 3,000-Meter Tateyama Mountains
Snowmelt from the Tateyama Mountains flows into Toyama Bay through rivers such as the Kurobe and Jinzu.
Along the way, it carries minerals and nutrients from the forests, nourishing plankton and supporting a rich marine food chain.
Warm and Cold Currents Create an Ideal Marine Environment
The warm Tsushima Current meets cold deep-sea water in Toyama Bay.
This continuous circulation brings nutrient-rich water toward the surface, supporting an extraordinary diversity of marine life.
Exceptional Freshness
Since the fishing grounds are located close to the ports, seafood reaches the market—and eventually sushi restaurants—in a remarkably short time.
That exceptional freshness is one of the defining characteristics of Toyama sushi.
Because of this remarkable natural environment, Toyama Bay is often called “a natural fish preserve.”
“When It Comes to Sushi, Think Toyama”
Toyama Prefecture actively promotes sushi tourism under the slogans “Toyama Bay: A Natural Fish Preserve” and “When It Comes to Sushi, Think Toyama.”
From long-established sushi restaurants to neighborhood favorites, visitors can enjoy seasonal seafood landed earlier that same day.
Pairing fresh sushi with sake brewed using pure snowmelt from the Tateyama Mountains is another unforgettable experience unique to Toyama.
Conclusion
Toyama’s sushi is about far more than famous fish like yellowtail and nodoguro.
Its true appeal lies in the opportunity to enjoy local specialties such as white shrimp, firefly squid, gasu shrimp, and whelks at their seasonal peak and exceptional freshness.
Because the seafood changes throughout the year, every visit to Toyama offers a new sushi experience.
Himi Winter Yellowtail, red snow crab, and nodoguro are among the best winter specialties, known for their rich flavor and high fat content.
Are there any sushi toppings unique to Toyama?
White shrimp and gasu shrimp are difficult to find outside Toyama due to their limited distribution and delicate freshness. They are among the region’s most sought-after local specialties.
When is the best time to visit Toyama for sushi?
Spring is ideal for white shrimp and firefly squid, while winter is the best season for Himi Winter Yellowtail and red snow crab. Planning your trip around seasonal seafood is the best way to experience Toyama’s outstanding sushi culture.
“Connoisseurs eat sushi with salt”—where did this idea come from?
One of its origins lies in the staged presentation of sushi at the counter. The chef performs a small finishing touch right in front of the customer, often sprinkling salt and adding a light squeeze ofcitrus. This is visually striking and creates the impression that something special is happening. On top of that, media and social platforms tend to focus on this moment alone, turning it into a simplified message: “no soy sauce = expert taste.” Over time, this helped spread the misconception that eating sushi with salt is a “connoisseur’s style.”
In reality, however, only a small number of sushi items are truly suited to being eaten with salt. It can work well for highlighting the natural sweetness of fatty fish like otoro, or for bringing out the aroma and texture of certain white-fleshed fish. But these are exceptions, not the rule. Traditionally, most sushi and sashimi are served with fully developed seasonings such as nikiri soy sauce or nitsume. Items like conger eel, simmered scallops, and simmered squid are not defined by salt, but by layered seasoning that combines sweetness, umami, and savory depth.
This is where salt plays a more precise role. While soy sauce and nitsume build and unify flavor, salt sharpens the edges of taste and makes fat and sweetness more noticeable.
The combination of salt and citrus is sometimes also used to cover up stronger odors in farmed fish or fish that is not at its peak condition. If salt-and-citrus preparations appear more than twice in a single course, it may be worth considering the chef’s intent behind the menu design.
In practice, the use of salt and citrus is quite limited and highly deliberate. Squid is a good example: a light touch of salt and citrus enhances its juiciness and subtle sweetness, bringing out a clean, transparent quality. With shellfish like scallops, salt helps tighten the structure of the umami, making their delicate sweetness and texture more defined. In both cases, salt is not used to “boost” flavor, but to reveal what is already there.
Techniques like squeezing sudachi or lemon, or adding herbs and garnishes, follow the same logic. They are not just for adding flavor—they balance the salt, lighten the overall impression, and create a clean, refreshing finish. This allows the natural character of the ingredients to be enjoyed more clearly and for a longer time, without feeling overly salty.
Another often overlooked point is the type of salt being used. Even salt varies greatly depending on its mineral content and crystal structure. Salts such as Mongolian pink rock salt, seaweed salt, or French Guérande salt don’t just add saltiness—they can also bring out bitterness, sweetness, and depth, adding complexity to the overall flavor of sushi.
That’s why it matters to understand not just that salt is being used, but which kind of salt and why. Simply copying what a well-known sushi chef does will not necessarily lead to better taste if it doesn’t fit the intent behind the fish and rice. In some cases, the salt can even become too dominant and throw the balance off, making the dish less refined.
Seasoning in sushi is ultimately about design—how the fish and rice come together as one. Salt, soy sauce, and simmered sauces (nitsume) are simply tools used to achieve that.
What matters is not whether you “eat sushi with salt,” but whether you can sense the intention behind why that salt is there. Being able to perceive that intention is what deepens one’s understanding of sushi.
Shinko maki is a type of nori roll that originated in the Kansai region.
“Tsukemono” is a general term for Japanese pickled vegetables. They are made by preserving vegetables in salt, rice bran, miso, koji, soy sauce, vinegar, and other seasonings. Depending on the pickling method and duration, both the flavor and aroma—and even the texture of the vegetables—can change significantly.
A well-known example is “takuan.” Takuan is made by fermenting dried daikon radish in rice bran and salt over a long period. It is known for its deep umami flavor, bright yellow color, and firm, crunchy texture.
In contrast, the word “shinko” originally referred to freshly pickled vegetables—lightly pickled items with a short curing time. These quick pickles are typically ready in a few hours to a few days. They are low in salt and preserve the natural crispness, juiciness, and fresh aroma of the vegetables. Over time, however, the meaning of “shinko” has broadened, and it may also refer more generally to pickled vegetables, including fully fermented ones like takuan.
“Oshinko (お新香)” comes from “shinko (新香)” with the honorific prefix “o- (お).” While it originally referred to lightly pickled vegetables (asazuke), it is now commonly used in everyday Japanese to mean pickles in general. In restaurants, it often refers to a mixed assortment of pickled vegetables.
This terminology also appears in sushi. A thin roll filled with takuan, wrapped in vinegared rice and seaweed, is called “takuan maki.” It is also known as “shinko maki” or “koko maki.”
Strictly speaking, from an etymological point of view, if the filling is a fully fermented pickle like takuan, “koko maki” would be more accurate than “shinko maki.” However, in modern usage, “shinko-maki” is far more common.
In simple terms: “Shinko originally referred to lightly pickled vegetables, where the short pickling time preserves their natural crunch and freshness. Today, however, oshinko is commonly used as a general term for pickled vegetables.”
An izakaya is a uniquely Japanese style of casual dining establishment centered on alcoholic beverages and shared dishes. Often compared to British pubs or Spanish tapas bars, izakaya are not merely places to eat and drink—they function as informal social spaces deeply embedded in everyday life in Japan.
Unlike formal restaurants, izakaya emphasize atmosphere, flexibility, and interaction. Guests are encouraged to relax, talk, and order freely, creating a dynamic environment where food, drink, and conversation unfold together.
In many ways, the lively, almost chaotic energy described above is not incidental—it is essential. The overlapping conversations, the rhythm of shared plates, and the constant flow of drinks together form the core of the izakaya experience. To step into an izakaya is to step into a living expression of Japanese social culture.
Historical Background
The origins of izakaya can be traced back to kakuuchi, a practice in which customers drank sake inside or in front of liquor shops. The term “izakaya” itself comes from the idea of “staying in a sake shop to drink.”
Early drinking establishments are referenced in historical records such as the Shoku Nihongi, but the modern izakaya format began to take shape during the Edo period, when sake retailers began serving simple food alongside alcohol.
Following the Meiji Restoration, Western beverages such as beer were introduced, further diversifying drinking culture. In the 20th century—particularly from the 1980s onward—chain izakaya expanded nationwide, making the format widely accessible.
Atmosphere and Format
The atmosphere of an izakaya
Izakaya range from large chain establishments to small, family-run venues. Seating styles vary widely, including counter seats, tables, private rooms, and standing bars.
Most izakaya open in the early evening and operate until late at night. They are commonly used for after-work gatherings, informal business meetings, or casual nights out with friends.
The defining feature is atmosphere: a lively, slightly noisy environment filled with overlapping conversations and clinking glasses. Rather than silence or formality, izakaya thrive on controlled chaos and social energy.
Food Culture: Small Plates and Sharing
Izakaya cuisine is based on variety, flexibility, and small portions designed for sharing. Instead of individual courses, guests continuously order dishes throughout the evening.
A key cultural aspect is that food is served to be shared across the table. This transforms dining from a personal act into a collective experience shaped by conversation and interaction.
Representative dishes include:
The appearance of Hiyayakko
Edamame, chilled tofu, potato salad
Yakitori, grilled fish, gyoza
Karaage (fried chicken), fried tofu
Sashimi platters
Dashimaki tamago (rolled omelet)
More adventurous items such as takowasa (octopus with wasabi) and shiokara (fermented seafood) reflect Japan’s strong tradition of pairing bold flavors with alcohol.
Modern izakaya also frequently includes Western-style dishes such as pizza, pasta, and ajillo.
Drinks and Drinking Culture
Drinking in izakaya is guided more by social rhythm than by formal beverage culture.
Beer—especially draft beer—is commonly ordered first, often used to synchronize group toasts. This custom is widely known as “toriaezu beer” (“beer for now”).
Common drink categories include:
Beer
Sake (served chilled or warm)
Shochu (Japanese distilled spirit)
Highballs (whisky and soda)
Sours (especially lemon-based cocktails)
The emphasis is not on brand or prestige, but on how well drinks fit the food and group atmosphere.
Customs and Dining Etiquette
Otoshi (Table Charge Dish)
A small appetizer is served upon seating and added to the bill (typically ¥300–¥500).
Shared Dining
All dishes are placed in the center of the table and shared among guests.
Ordering Style
Rather than ordering everything at once, guests order gradually throughout the evening.
Time Limits
In busy urban areas, seating is often limited to around two hours.
Pricing, Types of Izakaya, and Ordering System
<Types and Budget>
Chain Izakaya (Casual Entry-Level)
¥2,000–¥4,000 per person
Standardized menus and fast service, ideal for beginners.
Independent Mid-Range Izakaya
¥3,000–¥6,000 per person
More seasonal dishes and local character.
High-End Izakaya
¥6,000–¥12,000+ per person
Premium ingredients and curated drinking experiences.
Budget / Senbero Izakaya
¥1,000–¥2,000
Simple food and low-cost drinks focused on affordability.
<How Ordering Works>
Guests are seated and served otoshi
Drinks are ordered first (often beer)
Food is ordered gradually throughout the visit
Dishes are shared at the table
Additional orders are added as the experience unfolds
Menus often include pictures, English translations, or tablet ordering systems in tourist areas.
Ordering Tips and Useful Phrases
There are lots of menu strips posted on the wall.
For first-time visitors, izakaya ordering is simple and flexible. Staff are used to international guests, especially in cities, and communication is often intuitive.
Useful phrases:
“Can I have a beer, please? (Biiru o kudasai)”
“What do you recommend? (Osusume wa nan desu ka?)”
“This one, please. (Kore o onegaishimasu)” (pointing is fine)
“Another round, please. (Mō ippai onegaishimasu)”
There is no strict etiquette required. Mistakes in ordering are rarely an issue, and guests are encouraged to relax and enjoy the experience freely.
Above all, do not be afraid to try.
Izakaya are designed for exploration, spontaneity, and enjoyment. The essence of the experience lies in trying unfamiliar dishes, ordering instinctively, and embracing the atmosphere without hesitation.
Extensions of Izakaya Culture
Nomihodai (all-you-can-drink)
Happy hour discounts
Hashigo-zake (bar hopping)
Senbero culture (budget drinking)
These reflect the flexibility of izakaya culture across budgets and lifestyles.
Beyond food and drink, izakaya are defined by atmosphere and continuity. Long-standing establishments often have loyal regulars and unwritten social codes that shape the experience.
For first-time visitors, observing the rhythm of the space is more important than immediate participation. Over time, izakaya reveal themselves not just as restaurants, but as places of belonging—informal yet deeply meaningful social institutions.
People who have eaten sushi in Japan many times are likely familiar with the terms tokujo (special), jo (upper), and nami (standard), which are used to describe the ranking of lunch sushi set menus. A “jo” lunch set typically features higher-grade sushi toppings. It is also worth noting that neta simply means sushi toppings in general.
In traditional sushi terminology, toppings were further classified into three informal categories: Jo-neta, Nami-neta, and Atama-neta. These terms were once commonly used in the industry, reflecting not only quality but also the role each topping played in sushi presentation and service.
Jo-neta refers to premium sushi toppings.
Kuruma ebi (kuruma prawn) was often regarded as the highest grade.
In the past, kuruma ebi (kuruma prawn) was often regarded as the highest grade, partly because of the skill required in preparation and cooking. In modern sushi culture, however, the concept has shifted. Ingredients such as uni (sea urchin) and otoro (fatty tuna), which are highly valued for their richness and market price, are now commonly considered Jo-neta. This change reflects a broader shift in value from preparation difficulty to rarity and taste intensity.
Among hikarimono (silver-skinned fish), a traditional ranking was also recognized in some Edomae sushi shops. Fish such as kisu (whiting), sayori (halfbeak), aji (horse mackerel), and kohada (gizzard shad) were often placed in a preferred order, with subtle differences in seasonal quality and texture influencing their evaluation. However, this hierarchy was never fixed and varied depending on the shop and region.
Nami-neta refers to standard or everyday sushi toppings.
Typical examples include akami (lean tuna) and ika (squid). These toppings were widely used and formed the foundation of everyday sushi offerings. While they were not considered premium, they were essential to maintaining balance and accessibility in sushi culture.
For nimono (simmered toppings), a relatively consistent sense of ranking existed over time. Ingredients such as awabi (abalone) and anago (conger eel) were generally regarded as top-tier due to the complexity and time required in preparation. They were followed by ni-ika (simmered squid) and tako (octopus), while shako (mantis shrimp) was often considered the most modest. In this category, value was closely tied to the skill of simmering techniques, which were a key expression of a sushi chef’s craftsmanship.
Atama-neta, on the other hand, had a completely different function.
Demae sushi is prepared to look visually appealing.
It was used in the context of traditional delivery sushi (demae), particularly before World War II. At that time, sushi was often arranged in stacked forms, with four or six pieces placed vertically in a container. The topping placed on the top layer—most visible to the customer—was called Atama-neta, meaning the “head” or most visually prominent piece.
This practice reflected the importance of visual impression in delivery culture. The first thing a customer saw was believed to shape their perception of quality. However, in modern sushi presentation, this stacking style has disappeared. Sushi is now arranged flat in boxes or on plates for reasons of hygiene, stability, and visual consistency. As a result, the term Atama-neta has largely fallen out of use in contemporary sushi terminology.
Note: In Japanese, Jo-neta is written as 上ネタ, Nami-neta as 並ネタ, and Atama-neta as 頭ネタ. This information may be helpful when traveling in Japan.
Sushi chefs use shiraita kombu to prevent the mackerel sushi from oxidizing.
The reason Kansai-style sushi makes extensive use of kelp—in the form of shiraita kombu (thinly shaved kelp), kelp broth, kelp rolls, and kelp-cured fish—is not simply because kelp contains umami, but because it treats sushi not as a “dish completed in an instant,” but as a “dish that develops over time.”
Kansai sushi, particularly oshi-zushi and hako-zushi, developed within a food culture that prioritized preservation. As a result, fish has been treated not just as something to be enjoyed at peak freshness, but as an ingredient whose texture and flavor are gradually stabilized through salt and vinegar, forming a cohesive whole over time. For this reason, sushi is designed to reach its final flavor and form through a series of carefully layered processes.
Within this approach, kombu functions not simply as a seasoning, but as a foundational ingredient that shapes both flavor and texture. Shiraita kombu enhances the visual appeal of pressed sushi while covering fish such as mackerel to protect it from air, preventing drying and oxidation, and helping preserve both flavor and quality. Kombu dashi enhances the depth of the rice’s flavor, while kombu-zume draws out excess moisture from the fish and stabilizes its texture. Kombu-maki wraps the ingredients, allowing the flavors to gradually meld over time.
In other words, kombu serves multiple roles. It is used across different layers—inside, outside, and as a finishing element—each contributing in a different way to stabilize both flavor and structure.
This is rooted in history. Kelp was transported in large quantities to the Kansai region via Kitamae trading ships, becoming not a luxury item but an everyday ingredient. Over time, the idea that “umami comes from kelp” became widely shared.
As a result, in Kansai sushi, kelp is used not as decoration, but as a fundamental part of the sushi itself, supporting the entire dish in multiple ways.
Hakozushi is one of the signature sushi styles of the Kansai region.
The difference in the use of sugar between Kansai-style pressed sushi and Kanto-style nigiri sushi (Edomae sushi) reflects not merely a matter of taste preference, but a fundamental difference in the very philosophy underlying sushi as a dish.
Kansai-style pressed sushi (such as Hakozushi and Battera) developed within a sushi culture that originally prioritized preservation. The fish is thoroughly marinated in vinegar, acquiring a sour note in exchange for umami. Furthermore, when firmly pressed into a wooden mold, the toppings and vinegared rice adhere closely together, forming a structure that enters the mouth as a single, unified entity.
The key element here is acidity from vinegar. The acidity of the vinegar-cured fish and the vinegared rice often overlap, making the dish feel overly sour. This is where sugar comes into play. Sugar is not merely used to add sweetness; it serves to soften that acidity and guide the overall flavor toward harmony.
This approach to flavor building in Kansai is consistent with a trend seen throughout Kansai cuisine. Rather than allowing strong flavors to stand on their own, the philosophy is to blend them into the whole and create harmony. This concept is also reflected in Kansai’s dashi culture, where sweetness is used as an extension of that philosophy. Sugar is not merely a sweetener; it is a crucial component that softens acidity and brings the entire flavor together.
On the other hand, Kanto-style nigiri sushi—often referred to as Edomae sushi—is best understood as a rice-driven style. Nigiri sushi is prepared in front of the customer and is intended to be eaten immediately, but it is the design of the rice that underpins its final form.
The rice is not merely “rice beneath the toppings”; it is a base that complements every topping while accommodating each one’s unique character. The balance of vinegar, the amount of salt, and the use of sugar are adjusted not to homogenize the varying flavors of each topping, but to bring out the best in each ingredient.
Sugar is sometimes used here, but its purpose is limited. It serves only to slightly soften the sharpness of the vinegar, refine the mouthfeel, or provide light cohesion—it does not form the central axis of the flavor. Rather, the rice functions as a common structural framework that accommodates any topping while ensuring the integrity of each individual piece of sushi.
Viewed in this light, Kanto-style nigiri sushi is not a dish where the toppings take center stage; rather, it is a dish whose integrity is established through the design of the rice. The rice ensures that the dish remains intact regardless of the topping used and allows each topping’s individual character to shine.
The difference in the use of sugar is not merely a matter of quantity. It illustrates the contrast between two distinct aesthetics in Japanese sushi: whether to build up flavors into a single unified form or to use a common structure to bring diverse ingredients into harmony.
Although Kansai-style pressed sushi and Edomae-style nigiri sushi (Edomae sushi) are both categorized as “sushi,” their historical backgrounds and underlying philosophies differ significantly. The differences between the two go far beyond shape; they reflect distinct urban structures, distribution environments, and regional attitudes toward food.
In particular, Kansai-style pressed sushi (Hakozushi and Bozushi) developed under the conditions of preservation and transport. Its core regions include urban centers such as Osaka and Kyoto, where refrigeration technology as we know it today did not exist. As a result, it was difficult to transport seafood over long distances while keeping it fresh. This made extending the shelf life of ingredients a central concern in culinary development.
Within these constraints, a method emerged in which vinegared rice and toppings were layered in a wooden mold and pressed firmly from above. Oshi-zushi is not merely a shaping technique. The pressure helps remove excess air and moisture, slows bacterial growth, and improves shelf stability. Vinegar itself also has antibacterial properties, and when combined with fish, it became a highly practical form of preserved food for its time.
In addition, oshi-zushi offers a high degree of physical stability. Pressing the ingredients into a wooden mold creates a compact, block-like form with uniform thickness and density. This makes it resistant to crumbling, easy to slice, and well-suited for transport. It is especially practical for celebrations, festivals, and travel meals, striking a strong balance between practicality and refined presentation.
This “molded form” is also closely tied to the aesthetic sensibilities of Kansai food culture. The cross-section of oshi-zushi reveals fish and vinegared rice arranged in precise, geometric layers, creating a visual presentation reminiscent of an edible artwork. In this sense, it is not only a dish to be tasted, but also one meant to be seen.
In contrast, Edomae sushi developed under entirely different conditions. In Tokyo, as population density increased and urban life expanded, a vibrant street food culture emerged. Here, the emphasis was on immediacy—being able to eat sushi right away, convenience, and enjoying freshness at the moment of service. As a result, sushi evolved into a form centered on instant consumption.
The shari is shaped just enough to hold its form without falling apart.
A defining feature of nigiri sushi is that the rice is gently shaped to retain air, creating a light, tender texture. This is not simply about softness. The air allows the rice to break apart easily in the mouth, while the fish and rice are designed to come together and dissolve simultaneously, creating a unified flavor experience. In other words, nigiri sushi is designed to deliver a culinary experience that is complete the moment it is formed, emphasizing lightness and immediacy.
What is important here is that the difference between the two is not simply technical, but reflects fundamentally different ideas of how food should reach its peak condition. Kansai-style pressed sushi is designed to remain stable and well-balanced even after some time has passed. Edomae nigiri sushi, on the other hand, is designed to be at its best immediately after it is made.
In this sense, oshi-zushi is a style of sushi that maintains its quality over time, while nigiri sushi is a style that reaches its peak in an instant.
What makes this even more interesting is that both share the same foundation of vinegared rice. Using the same core ingredient, entirely different eating experiences are created simply through physical technique—pressing versus shaping. This demonstrates that Japanese cuisine is not merely dependent on ingredients but is a highly refined culinary culture built on structure and design.
Ultimately, pressing oshi-zushi firmly is not just about compression, but a practical method of achieving preservation, structure, and visual harmony at the same time. Conversely, gently incorporating air into nigiri sushi is a deliberate design choice to maximize fleeting texture, aroma, and mouthfeel.
Although both are forms of sushi, the key difference lies in how each is designed to reach its optimal eating condition.
Until about 20 years ago, very few people outside Japan ate uni (sea urchin), so most of the world’s sea urchin was exported to Japan. Major producing countries included Chile, the United States, Russia, and China. Japan provided technical guidance to these countries, and today they produce sea urchin of quality comparable to Japan’s.
As sushi has gained global popularity, more people have begun eating sea urchin. A video of Los Angeles Dodgers player Freddie Freeman trying sea urchin for the first time in Tokyo—encouraged by his teammates—and reacting with surprise at how delicious it was went viral. It seems likely that even more people will develop a taste for sea urchin.
At the same time, rising sea temperatures and other environmental factors have reduced the seaweed that sea urchins feed on, leading to declining catches worldwide. As a result, prices at Toyosu Market have surged. For example, on January 5, 2026, at the first auction of the year at Toyosu Market, purple sea urchin fetched a record-breaking 35 million yen in a joint bid. The uni bowl made from it reportedly cost 1.1 million yen. While this is an extreme case, the typical price for a single piece of uni gunkan-maki ranges from 500 to 5,000 yen.
Now to the main question: what types of sea urchin are actually served at sushi restaurants?
There are six edible varieties of sea urchin in Japan. One of them, shirahige uni (collector urchin), is harvested only in small quantities in warm waters such as Okinawa, so it is not served at sushi restaurants in Tokyo. The varieties commonly served at sushi restaurants are:
Closed seasons and peak harvest times vary by species. However, many sushi chefs do not clearly know which specific species they are serving. This is largely because Toyosu Market does not strictly label them by species. In practice, chefs infer the type based on season and harvest location.
Murasaki uni and Bafun uni are each further divided into two subtypes. In some regions, Murasaki uni is referred to as “kuro uni (black sea urchin)” based on its appearance. However, there is no species officially called black sea urchin—it is simply a type of Murasaki uni.
The appearance of aka uni
At Toyosu Market, sea urchin is typically categorized into three groups: Murasaki uni, Bafun uni, and Aka uni. This is the general commercial classification.
Broadly speaking, Murasaki uni, Bafun uni, and Aka uni prefer warmer waters and are harvested west of the Kansai region. In contrast, Kitamurasaki uni and Ezobafun uni prefer colder waters and are harvested in Hokkaido and the Tohoku region.
Fishing takes place year-round somewhere in Hokkaido, but each area has designated closed seasons. Kitamurasaki uni is not harvested on the eastern side of Hokkaido. Both Kitamurasaki uni and Ezobafun uni are harvested on the western side of Hokkaido, primarily from June through August.
The edible portion of sea urchin is the reproductive organ, which appears yellow to orange. Confusingly, in the sushi trade, Murasaki uni is sometimes referred to as “white,” while Bafun uni is called “red,” based on the color of the edible portion. Aka uni has only been commonly served at sushi restaurants for about the past decade; before that, the industry largely used the simple categories “white” and “red.” Incidentally, the “red” in Aka uni refers to the color of its shell.
A common rule of thumb is that Murasaki uni is yellow and Bafun uni is orange, but this is not absolute. Since sea urchin is often sold removed from its shell, it is actually difficult to distinguish the species visually—even though there are only five main varieties in circulation. The sea urchin sold at the first auction of 2026 was Kitamurasaki uni, not Murasaki uni. Even the media appeared to misunderstand this distinction.
In conclusion, when you visit a sushi restaurant in Tokyo, sea urchin is almost always served as a single variety in gunkan-maki style. There is a greater than 50% chance that it will be either Kitamurasaki uni or Ezobafun uni. High-end sushi restaurants may offer both varieties depending on the season. Traditional sushi establishments often prefer the lighter, more delicate flavor of Kitamurasaki uni. Restaurants with direct sourcing relationships may also serve Aka uni.
It is also common for Ezobafun uni to be labeled simply as “Bafun uni.” Even if different types were mixed, most customers would not be able to tell. If a sushi restaurant west of Kansai refers to it as Bafun uni, it is highly likely that it is indeed Bafun uni.
A Complete Guide to Japan’s Essential Sweet Cooking Wine
Mirin is one of the foundational seasonings in Japanese cuisine. It is widely used in dishes such as teriyaki, simmered foods, sukiyaki, mitarashi dango, and tamagoyaki. Its ability to add gentle sweetness, depth, and a beautiful glossy finish makes it indispensable in Japanese cooking.
While mirin is rarely used in sushi restaurants, substitutes like sugar or sake are not the same. To truly understand Japanese cuisine, it helps to understand mirin properly.
1. What Is Mirin?
Definition
Mirin is a traditional Japanese sweet cooking wine made from glutinous rice, rice koji (rice inoculated with fermentation mold), and shochu (distilled alcohol). Unlike simple sweeteners, mirin develops its sweetness naturally through enzymatic saccharification and aging.
The result is a seasoning that provides sweetness, depth, and shine — all at once.
Alcohol Content
Authentic mirin, known as hon mirin, contains approximately 13–14% alcohol by volume. Under Japanese law, it is classified as an alcoholic beverage and is regulated accordingly.
When heated during cooking, most of the alcohol evaporates, leaving behind sweetness and flavor.
Flavor Characteristics
Mirin’s sweetness is mild and rounded rather than sharp. It comes from multiple naturally occurring sugars such as glucose and various oligosaccharides.
During cooking, mirin:
Adds gentle sweetness
Enhances depth and umami
Creates a glossy finish
Helps balance saltiness
Aging also produces amino acids and organic acids that contribute complexity and richness.
2. Types of Mirin
Not all mirin is the same. There are several categories available in Japan and abroad.
Hon mirin is made through traditional saccharification and aging. Some versions contain added sugar, while others rely entirely on natural enzymatic conversion. Both qualify as hon mirin if made from the core ingredients.
This type provides the most depth, gloss, and authentic flavor.
Mirin-Style Seasoning
Alcohol: Less than 1% Salt: Less than 1%
This product was developed to avoid liquor taxes. It contains added sugars and flavor enhancers to approximate mirin’s taste.
Advantages:
Lower cost
Can be used without cooking off alcohol
Widely available
However, it lacks the complexity of hon mirin.
Salted Mirin (Fermented Seasoning)
Alcohol: Typically 8–14% Salt: About 2%
Salt is added to prevent it from being classified as alcohol under tax law. Because of the salt content, seasoning adjustments are necessary when cooking.
3. The History of Mirin
Mirin is believed to have originated between the Warring States period and early Edo period. There is no definitive consensus on its origins, and two major theories exist.
Chinese Origin Theory
A Ming Dynasty Chinese text mentions a sweet liquor called “mi-lin (密淋),” described as sweet like dripping honey. Some scholars believe this beverage was introduced to Japan via Ryukyu and Kyushu during the Warring States period and gradually evolved into hon mirin.
Japanese Origin Theory
Japan already had sweet rice-based alcoholic drinks such as nerizake (練酒) and shirozake (白酒). Records from the 15th century describe sweet liquors brewed in Hakata.
These early drinks were sweet but prone to spoilage. The later addition of distilled alcohol (shochu) improved preservation and stability, eventually leading to modern mirin production.
From Sweet Drink to Essential Seasoning
By the mid-Edo period, mirin was popular as a sweet alcoholic beverage. As Japanese culinary culture matured, it gradually shifted from being consumed as a drink to being used as a seasoning.
By the late Edo period, records clearly show mirin being used in eel sauce and soba dipping sauce in the Kanto region. From that point forward, mirin became an essential component of Japanese cuisine.
4. How Hon Mirin Is Made
Hon mirin differs from sake in one crucial way: it does not rely on yeast fermentation.
Instead, shochu is added at the beginning. The alcohol activates enzymes in the rice koji, which break down starch in the glutinous rice into sugars.
Key Steps
Steamed glutinous rice is prepared.
Rice koji provides enzymes (amylase and protease).
Shochu is added.
Saccharification and aging occur over time.
During this process:
Amylase converts starch into sugars.
Protease breaks proteins into amino acids.
Sugars, amino acids, and organic acids interact during aging to create depth and complexity.
Pressing and Finishing
After maturation, the mash is pressed to separate:
Mirin liquid
Mirin lees
The liquid is filtered and bottled.
Traditional breweries may use wooden press methods, while modern facilities often use mechanical or centrifugal systems.
5. The Role of Mirin in Cooking
Mirin does far more than add sweetness.
Reduces Unwanted Odors
When heated, alcohol evaporates and helps carry away unwanted odors from meat and fish. Aging compounds also help mask strong smells.
Prevents Ingredients from Falling Apart
Sugars and alcohol interact with the surface of ingredients during cooking, helping them maintain their shape. This is especially useful in simmered dishes.
Adds Depth and Umami
Because mirin contains amino acids and organic acids, it adds more than sweetness — it enhances overall flavor complexity.
Provides Gloss and Shine
As it cooks, mirin forms a light glaze on the surface of food, creating the beautiful shine seen in teriyaki dishes.
Enhances Flavor Penetration
Alcohol helps other seasonings permeate ingredients more effectively, resulting in deeper flavor absorption.
6. Choosing Between Hon Mirin and Mirin-Style Seasoning
Choose Mirin-Style If:
You want convenience
You prefer lower alcohol
You need a budget-friendly option
Choose Hon Mirin If:
You want deeper flavor
You care about authentic results
You are making traditional simmered or glazed dishes
If using hon mirin without cooking, you may want to briefly simmer it first to evaporate the alcohol.
7. Storage Tips
After opening, store mirin in a cool, dark place or in the refrigerator. Over time, it may darken slightly — this is a natural result of maturation.
Avoid over-reducing it during cooking, as excessive heat can concentrate sweetness too much.
8. Availability Outside Japan
Outside Japan, hon mirin and mirin-style seasonings are typically available at Japanese grocery stores and some Asian markets.
Common substitutes such as white wine mixed with sugar or sake with added sugar may approximate sweetness, but they do not replicate mirin’s complexity, gloss, or depth.
Final Thoughts
Mirin is far more than a sweetener. It is a carefully crafted cooking wine that adds balance, shine, depth, and refinement to Japanese cuisine.
Understanding the difference between hon mirin and imitation products allows you to cook Japanese dishes with greater authenticity and precision.
Kochi’s Inaka sushi (pronounced inaka-zushi in Japanese) is a unique style of sushi that developed in the mountainous regions of the prefecture. Unlike typical nigiri sushi (pronounced nigiri-zushi), which highlights seafood, Inaka sushi is defined by topping vinegared rice with locally harvested vegetables and wild mountain greens.
Although Kochi Prefecture faces the Pacific Ocean and is known for its seafood, Inaka sushi originated in inland areas where fresh fish was scarce. It emerged from the ingenuity of mountain communities, who created special dishes using the ingredients they had on hand. At the time, rice was a precious commodity, and sushi was mainly prepared for special occasions such as weddings, funerals, and festivals. Compared to fish-based sushi, Inaka sushi was more affordable and kept longer, eventually becoming a staple in everyday life.
Representative Ingredients
The main ingredients of Inaka sushi are familiar staples in mountain villages:
Myoga (Japanese ginger): Boiled and pickled in sweet vinegar, myoga ginger highlights its refreshing aroma and vibrant color. It is traditionally prepared to welcome guests.
Ryukyu (taro stem): Also called hasuimo, this taro variety is eaten only for its stem, which has a crisp, satisfying texture. The stems are lightly prepared to maintain their crunch.
Konjac: In areas where fried tofu was not readily available, mountain communities used konjac as a substitute. The konjac is shaped into a pouch, cut, and simmered in a sweet-savory sauce to absorb flavor.
Shiitake mushrooms: Simmered with dashi, sugar, and soy sauce to enhance their natural umami. Some recipes also include small dried fish or finely grated raw fish for a simple, rustic flavor.
Bamboo shoots and zenmai (royal fern): Seasonal mountain vegetables that appear primarily in early spring.
Each ingredient is individually seasoned and placed on slightly sweet vinegared rice, then gently pressed. While visually similar to nigiri sushi, Inaka sushi’s charm lies in its mild flavor, which allows the natural taste of the ingredients to shine. Its colorful presentation—red myoga, green ryukyu, dark shiitake, and yellow bamboo shoots—reflects the vibrant hues characteristic of Kochi’s cuisine.
Seasoning and Vinegared Rice
Inaka sushi is made with slightly sweet vinegared rice, seasoned with a balanced mix of vinegar and sugar. The toppings are often simmered in a sweet-savory sauce, creating a gentle, rounded flavor profile. Rather than relying on strong saltiness or fatty richness, the dish is defined by the harmony of dashi and sweet vinegar. In Kochi, citrus fruits such as yuzu are sometimes added to the sushi vinegar, giving the rice a subtle aromatic note.
Role as Festive Food
Traditionally, Inaka sushi was prepared not for daily meals, but for special occasions such as festivals, celebrations, or visits from guests. The sight of community members arranging colorful sushi on large platters symbolizes the cooperative culture of mountain villages. Today, Inaka sushi can be enjoyed at local restaurants, farmers’ markets, and specialty shops throughout the prefecture, including around Kochi City, making it accessible for both locals and tourists.
Modern Significance
Inaka sushi is often plant-based, making it well-suited for vegans and vegetarians. However, its essence lies not in replacing fish-based sushi, but in the creativity and resourcefulness of mountain communities using local ingredients. As a “mountain sushi” distinct from ocean-based nigiri, Inaka sushi reflects the climate, landscape, and daily life of Kochi, representing a unique regional food culture.
When people hear “Shojin Ryori,” some might imagine a simple meal with just one soup and one dish. On the other hand, thanks to media coverage, others might picture luxurious, elaborate cuisine. Shojin Ryori began as the meals of Buddhist monks, which seem quite simple at first glance. However, dishes served as offerings to the Buddha or for special occasions—called “Hare” meals, traditional celebratory menus—can be elaborate enough to rival kaiseki cuisine at high-end Japanese restaurants.
This guide will help you understand the essence of Shojin Ryori and experience its depth firsthand.
What is Shojin?
The term “Shojin” (精進) comes either from Shoshojin (正精進), one of the Eightfold Paths taught by Shakyamuni Buddha to escape life’s suffering, or from Shojin, one of the Six Paramitas in Mahayana Buddhism.
Shojin in the Six Paramitas: Fuse (布施), Jikai (持戒), Ninniku (忍辱), Shojin (精進), Zenjo (禅定), Chie (智慧)
The concept corresponds to the ancient Indian Sanskrit term “Virya,” meaning “the mental effort to abandon harmful deeds and cultivate good ones” or “the single-minded pursuit of the Buddha Way without distraction.” Though hard for most people to grasp, it basically means not being lax—to devote oneself wholeheartedly to Buddhist practice.
Shojin Ryori—the cuisine that developed to support the health of practicing monks—is more than just vegetarian food. It is part of spiritual cultivation. Its purpose is not to indulge the taste buds, but to purify the mind and body and support practice. Every aspect—from ingredient selection and cooking methods to presentation and the act of eating—is an extension of the practice itself.
The Five Precepts (Gokai)
Shojin Ryori is rooted in the Five Precepts (五戒) that monks and Buddhists follow:
Fuseshokai（不殺生戒）: Do not harm living beings → no meat or fish
Fuchutoukai（不偸盗戒）: Do not steal
Fujainkai（不邪淫戒）: Avoid improper sexual conduct
Fumougokai（不妄語戒）: Do not lie
Fuonjukai（不飲酒戒）: Do not drink alcohol
Many Zen temples also have signs at their gates warning, “No entry for those consuming strong-smelling vegetables or alcohol (不許入葷酒山門).” These pungent vegetables—garlic, leeks, shallots, onions, and chives—along with alcohol, are avoided because they can hinder spiritual practice.
What is Gokun (五葷)?
Shojin Ryori avoids:
Birds, beasts, fish, and shellfish
The five pungent vegetables (garlic, leeks, shallots, onions, and chives)
Instead, it focuses on vegetables, beans, tofu, seaweed, and grains. Flavor, texture, and appearance are carefully balanced through cooking techniques and presentation. In short, Shojin Ryori is more than just meat-free cuisine; it is food designed to calm the mind and support spiritual practice. Originating in Mahayana Buddhism, it spread from India to China, Korea, and Japan.
Historical Development in Japan
Shojin Ryori began as a simple, austere diet guided by religious taboos. Over time, Japanese culinary sensibilities transformed it into a refined cuisine with vegetables as the stars of each dish.
From the Kamakura period onward, influenced by Zen Buddhism, Shojin Ryori became more sophisticated. Broths incorporated kombu and dried shiitake mushrooms, and soy-based items like goma tofu (sesame tofu), yuba (tofu skin), and ganmodoki (fried soybean patties) flourished. Techniques were refined to maximize umami, texture, and visual appeal—all without animal ingredients.
Shojin Ryori also influenced the development of kaiseki cuisine in the tea ceremony, becoming a cornerstone of Japanese culinary tradition. Today, its legacy continues primarily in Kyoto, in temples and specialty restaurants.
Modern Practice and Tourist Experience
Over time, meals consumed by laypeople during Buddhist ceremonies or celebrations also came to be called “Shojin Ryori,” broadening its meaning.
Today, Shojin Ryori is recognized not just as a religious practice but also as the origin of vegan and plant-based cuisine. Its true essence lies in honoring life, calming the mind, and harmonizing with nature, not merely following dietary restrictions.
Visitors can also enjoy Shojin Ryori as a tourist experience, such as Shojin Kaiseki at temple lodgings. These visually striking, multi-course meals—featuring tofu, vegetables, and seaweed prepared in various ways—offer a unique cultural experience enjoyed by visitors.
Staying at historic sites like Koyasan provides an opportunity to experience the spirit of ascetic practice and Japanese Buddhist culture through Shojin Ryori.
Choosing soy sauce based on its manufacturing process significantly impacts the aroma, taste, and appearance of your dishes. Three common types—nama-shoyu (unpasteurized soy sauce), ki-joyu (standard brewed soy sauce), and nikiri-shoyu (cooked soy sauce)—each have distinct characteristics and uses. Understanding these differences will help you select the right soy sauce for enhancing the natural taste of ingredients and achieving the perfect balance in your dishes.
Nama-shoyu (なま醤油)
The appearance of nama-shoyu
Nama-shoyu is an unpasteurized soy sauce characterized by its rich aroma and flavor. It skips the typical pasteurization process (sterilization of microorganisms) used in regular soy sauce, instead relying on precise filtration to remove yeast and microorganisms, ensuring freshness and safety. Because it is unheated, applying heat during cooking further enhances its aroma, allowing you to enjoy a vibrant color that highlights the natural hues and flavors of ingredients, along with a mellow, smooth umami taste.
Due to its living microbial nature, it maintains freshness at room temperature when stored in a sealed double-layered bottle that prevents exposure to air. Refrigeration after opening is sometimes recommended. It is ideal for sashimi, cold dishes, or as a finishing soy sauce, where enhancing the aroma and color of ingredients is desired.
Incidentally, unpasteurized pressed soy sauce is sometimes called “kiage-shoyu.” Since it hasn’t undergone heat sterilization or filtration, it’s soy sauce that retains microorganisms like lactic acid bacteria and yeast.
Ki-joyu (生醤油)
Ki-joyu is originally a term from the culinary industry, referring to soy sauce made solely from “soybeans, wheat, and salt,” which has undergone pasteurization. Pasteurization is the process of heating raw soy sauce to inactivate microorganisms and enzymes, thereby adjusting its aroma and flavor. This heating deepens the color, creates the characteristic savory aroma and taste of soy sauce, and produces a mellow overall impression.
Under JAS regulations, the only permitted additive is salt. Products labeled with only “soybeans, wheat, salt” on their ingredient list are ki-joyu. This signifies a pure soy sauce with no additional seasoning, suitable for a wide range of dishes like simmered and grilled foods. It also boasts a longer shelf life and more stable flavor compared to nama-shoyu. For sushi, ki-joyu is preferred over nikiri-shoyu when the soy sauce’s inherent, wonderful aroma is prioritized.
Nikiri-shoyu is a seasoned liquid made by adding mirin, sake, and sometimes dashi such as bonito broth to soy sauce, then heating it to evaporate the alcohol. “Nikiri” refers to the cooking technique of heating mirin or sake to evaporate its alcohol content, said to have originated with Edo-period street stall sushi. Evaporating the alcohol softens the sharpness of the soy sauce, enhancing the umami without overpowering the flavor of the seafood toppings. Furthermore, adding dashi incorporates its umami components, creating a deeper, more complex flavor. In sushi restaurants, it is used for all types of seafood sushi toppings.
Summary:
Nama-shoyu is best used for raw or cold dishes, as it brings out the natural color and aroma of the ingredients. Ki-joyu is a versatile, pure soy sauce that works well in cooked dishes when the soy sauce’s own flavor is desired. Nikiri-shoyu is a seasoned, umami-rich soy sauce, perfect for enhancing the taste of all types of sushi toppings.
