Arai is a traditional Japanese sashimi technique in which raw seafood is rinsed in cold or ice water. Also known as “洗鱠” or “洗魚”, this method is especially popular during the summer months for its refreshing taste and texture.
How Arai Is Prepared
In this technique, thinly sliced or shredded fish is placed in a strainer set over a bowl of ice water and washed until the flesh firms and warps. Some chefs also use running water for the rinsing process. The purpose of this rapid chilling is to stimulate the muscle fibers, causing them to contract and tighten, resulting in a firmer texture and improved mouthfeel.
Benefits of the Arai Method
Washing the fish removes surface proteins and lipids, effectively reducing unwanted odors—often caused by the oxidation of fats—and producing a cleaner, lighter taste. Arai is especially well-suited for seafood that has a strong aroma, high fat content, or soft flesh.
Common Seafood Used in Arai
- Freshwater fish: Carp (koi) is the most well-known example.
- Shrimp: Live kuruma shrimp are sometimes rinsed instead of served raw, offering a firmer texture than odorigui (live sashimi).
- Saltwater fish: Japanese sea bass (suzuki), black sea bream (kurodai), and redspotted grouper (akou or kijihata) are commonly prepared as arai to remove their pungent coastal aroma (known as iso-kusasa).
Historical Context
During Japan’s period of rapid economic growth in the postwar Showa era, marine pollution led to concerns about fish having a “petroleum-like” odor. Suzuki was especially affected and often prepared as arai to mask the smell. This historical context helped establish Suzuki no Arai as a quintessential seasonal summer dish in Japanese cuisine.
Freshness Is Essential
Fish used for arai must be extremely fresh and ideally still alive at the time of preparation. After death, fish rapidly lose ATP (adenosine triphosphate), the energy molecule responsible for muscle contraction. Once ATP is depleted, rinsing in cold water no longer causes the muscle fibers to contract, rendering the technique ineffective. The act of washing forcibly removes ATP and induces contraction, resulting in a firmer texture.
A Seasonal Delicacy
The brief rinsing also helps wash away surface fat, balancing the richness of fatty fish and resulting in a crisp, clean flavor. This quality makes arai not only a method of preparation but also an expression of culinary seasonality and refinement, offering a moment of cool relief during Japan’s hot summer months.