Instead of looking at the topping, take a moment to focus on the vinegared rice (shari). This shari is made of a blend of red and white vinegar.
When the Edo style sushi first appeared, red vinegar (made from fermented sake lees) was used for the sushi rice. Approximately 200 years ago Matazaemon Nakano, founder of Mizkan (a condiment manufacturer) invented red vinegar, which circulated and was used throughout Edo. At the time, red vinegar was used because it was more inexpensive than vinegar made from rice (white vinegar).
Instead of looking at the topping, take a moment to focus on the vinegared rice (shari). This shari is made using only white vinegar.
Nowadays the more fragrant rice vinegar (white vinegar) is used nearly exclusively but increasingly more shops have rediscovered the full-bodied but mild red vinegar and are using it in their dishes. Various restaurants have even come up with new ideas such as blending multiple vinegars or using different vinegar depending on the fish. Ultimately the sushi chef can exercise their own ingenuity in matching topping flavors with white or red vinegar.
Sea urchin has a creamy texture and rich flavor, with hints of natural sweetness and seaweed aroma. It leaves a lingering, rich umami flavor on the tongue. The acidity of the vinegared rice perfectly complements the sweetness of the uni. This is the general opinion of people who love sea urchin.
But some people say that “Sea urchin in a wooden box (called ‘hako-uni (箱ウニ)’ or ‘ori-uni (折ウニ)’ or ‘boxed sea urchin’) has a bitter medicine taste”.
The bitterness of sea urchin can be attributed to several factors, including changes in components due to decreased freshness, natural variations in taste depending on species or individual differences, the influence of the quality of seaweed used as feed on flavor, and the use of “potassium aluminum sulfate” (commonly known as alum) to enhance preservation and prevent deformation.
This alum treatment can also impart a distinctive bitterness, astringency, and metallic taste, making it a well-known cause of bitterness. As a result, many high-end sushi restaurants use sea urchin that is labeled as “additive-free” (no alum used).
If you’ve ever tried a sea urchin that tasted bitter*, this may be the reason.
*An “off flavor” that takes away from the primary good tastes.
What is saltwater sea urchin?
Sea urchin soaked in brine without using alum (called ‘ensui-uni (塩水ウニ)’ or ‘saltwater sea urchin’) is also commonly found. There is also a new technology that doesn’t use alum. In this method nitrogen water (water from which oxygen has been removed and then nitrogen dissolved) is used when sealing. The effect of replacing oxygen with nitrogen is inhibited oxidation, maintaining the freshness of the sea urchin.
Since it is sold soaked in saltwater with a salt concentration nearly identical to seawater, it has no bitterness or astringency, allowing you to enjoy the natural sweetness, umami, and seaweed aroma of the sea urchin, as well as its fluffy texture and juiciness. While it has a short shelf life, it is favored by sushi restaurants and high-end Japanese restaurants that prioritize quality. However, it is prone to losing its shape, so handling requires caution, and it is recommended to consume it as soon as possible after purchase.
About 200 years ago (around 1810-1830), Yohei Hanaya opened up the oldest nigiri sushi restaurant in Japan. It is said that this was the beginning of edomaesushi. As expected, none of the restaurants remain to this day, no matter how popular they were in those days. However, if relating to those lasting more than a century, as many as 10 still exist in Tokyo. It is such a surprise and many respect that they’ve managed to survive, still keeping their business running now. We will introduce those old restaurants in the order of its establishment.
KUDANSHITA SUSHIMASA
First started as a stall in 1861 at Nihonbashi area, relocated to Kudanbashi and then opened the restaurant in 1923. The beauty of wooden architect managed to survive the war and it has a 100-year history. They carefully prepare sushi ingredients with appropriate amount of vinegar and salt. Take Kohada for instance, they adjust the amount of salt depending on the thickness of fish fillet, fat content, temperature and humidity of the air. Check the glossiness of the vinegared kohada fish, and decide the best timing to serve. Enjoy superb sushi prepared with the traditional recipe passed on for generations.
JANOMEZUSHI HONTEN Established in 1865
BENTENMIYAKOZUSHI Established in 1866
YAHATAZUSHI Established in 1868
During the end of Edo period, many of samurai lords who had served for Tokugawa government lost their jobs. Many of them disguised themselves as dango rice dumpling seller. The first owner of Yahata-zushi was one of them, started the business as dango rice dumpling stall and then the second generation owner began serving sushi. The fourth and fifth chef now run the kitchen behind the counter. The fourth chef has a 62-year experience and he is the respected patriarch chef in Tokyo and serves traditionalEdomae-style sushi with careful preparation. The fifth chef adheres to basic principle of sushi making while embarking on new-style. He uses sun-dried salt produced in the French Basque Country for well-matured akami red fish such as tuna, and sea urchin from Hokkaido. Other must-eat ingredients are, the highest quality tuna from long-time partner vendor at Tsukiji market and rare tuna caught at the sea near Miyakejima island and matured for good five days.
OTUNASUSHI Established in 1875
YOSHINOSUSHI HONTEN
Opened in 1879, Yoshino sushi has served excellent Edomae-style sushi. Now the fifth-generation owner runs the restaurant. The second-generation owner first started using Toro, fatty tuna meat while most of the chef discarded it. That was because food freezing was not in widespread use at that time and fatty content of fish went bad quickly. Soon Toro was quickly raved by their regular customers as delicious treat. First it was called “abu” as it came from “abura” meaning fat in Japanese, but it didn’t sound as good as it tastes, so they changed it to “toro” meaning mild and tasty. They will feed you interesting stories to go along with sushi dish. One of them is that they had never considered Gunkan roll of ikura and uni sea urchin as sushi since Gunkan never requires hand rolling techniques as other hand roll sushi does. They use only salt and vinegar to make sushi rice not a slight use of sugar and mirin. And then they carefully prepare fish ingredients to go with vinegared rice. Enjoy delicious sushi dish however you like in a casual atmosphere.
The Art of Scent in Sushi Dining: A Matter of Courtesy and Respect
Refraining from wearing perfume is not merely about etiquette—it is a quiet expression of attentiveness and grace.
Sushi is a culinary art that engages all five senses—it is to be appreciated with the eyes, tasted with the tongue, and experienced through the nose. Among these, scent plays a particularly crucial role in shaping the overall impression of each piece.
Smell—whether orthonasal (through the nose) or retronasal (through the back of the throat while chewing)—is essential to how we experience flavor. When we eat, aroma compounds rise from the mouth to the nasal cavity, enhancing the taste of food. This is why, when we catch a cold and our nose is blocked, food seems tasteless. In fact, if you pinch your nose and drink orange juice, you might not even recognize its flavor. This clearly demonstrates just how deeply scent influences what we perceive as taste.
For instance, the umami of squid is not produced through the typical ATP-to-inosinate transformation seen in many fish. Instead, its flavor comes from the synergistic effect between adenosine monophosphate (AMP) and glutamic acid. This combination is said to produce a milder umami compared to ATP and glutamic acid, which is why freshness and texture become all the more important. Rather than allowing the squid to age, it is best enjoyed while still fresh, with its slightly firm, crisp bite intact.
Moreover, the gentle sweetness of squid is believed to come from taurine, and appreciating that subtle flavor requires an environment free from interfering scents. A strong perfume can easily mask such delicate nuances, making it difficult to fully experience the mild umami and sweetness that squid offers. To savor this gentleness, it is essential to refrain from wearing strong fragrances.
In the world of sushi, there exists the philosophy of “listening to the voice of the ingredients.” To bring out the natural flavor and aroma of each element, sushi chefs deliberately avoid excessive seasoning or added scents. They pay meticulous attention to factors like temperature, humidity, and even the angle of the knife.
Take, for example, the lean red meat of bluefin tuna. It is the sushi chef’s skill that determines the balance among its faint acidity, sweetness, and bitterness—none of which should overpower the others. If just one note dominates, the depth and complexity of the tuna is lost. Chefs carefully assess this balance to craft each piece of sushi.
There are sushi chefs who dislike gunkan-maki made with Kitamurasaki uni.
Similarly, with Kitamurasaki sea urchin, its fragrance is so delicate that some chefs choose not to wrap it in nori (seaweed), which might overpower its scent. This is another example of the deep consideration given to the ingredient’s natural aroma—a hallmark of the sushi chef’s philosophy.
In such a precise and sensitive culinary context, the intrusion of strong perfume from outside can become a serious disruption. If scent alters the perception of taste, both the chef’s craftsmanship and the ingredient’s unique character are diminished. Choosing not to wear perfume is, therefore, a simple yet meaningful way of showing respect for the chef’s work.
Additionally, most sushi restaurants—especially those with counter seating—are shared spaces, where diners sit mere inches apart. In such close proximity, even a modest amount of fragrance can affect the experience of neighboring guests. Strong scents can hinder their ability to enjoy the meal, making consideration for others not just polite, but necessary.
This kind of restraint reflects a fundamental virtue in Japanese culture: humility. In Japan, harmony is valued over self-assertion, and understatement is seen as a form of beauty. Refraining from wearing perfume is not merely about etiquette—it is a quiet expression of attentiveness and grace. Such mindfulness allows one to truly understand and appreciate sushi culture with both reverence and respect.
Instead of looking at the topping, take a moment to focus on the vinegared rice (shari). This shari is made of a blend of red and white vinegar.
