Types of dried fish

 

A photo of Dried fish
The appearance of Dried fish

Cod has long been an important source of nutrition for mankind. The European culture of cod has a particularly long history, and it is no exaggeration to say that Atlantic Cod has supported European civilization for more than 1,000 years. Salted and dried cod have been used as a high-quality preserved food in every country since ancient times and has supported human history.

A photo of Bacalao
Bacalao is dried, salted cod, and is a national dish of Spain, Portugal, and other countries.

One reason for the development of dried fish is that there were good fishing grounds in Iceland, the Arctic Ocean, and the continental shelf of North America, far from the major consumption areas of Europe. Another reason is that cod is difficult to distribute in its raw form, so it is difficult to control freshness. Because it loses its freshness so quickly, cod has historically been distributed either as a very salty salted product or as dried fish that has been dried like sticks. Humans have used the wisdom of preservation and endured hunger for various foods. Cod is just one example of the history of dry food.

 

First, we would like to begin by identifying what we mean by dry food or dried fish.

Dried foods are not simply raw seafood, vegetables, wild vegetables, or other foods that have had the water removed from them, but are better described as foods that have been exposed to the sun’s energy, which changes the ingredients in the food and adds further value to it. he effects of the sun’s energy are significant, generating the power to sterilize, bleach, preserve, and amplify umami, aroma, vitamins, and many other nutrients.

Food deteriorates and spoils over time. This is due to the action of enzymes and microorganisms contained in the food, oxidation, and other factors. Enzymes and microorganisms generally become less active when the moisture content of the food is below 40%, and almost dormant at 15% or less. Furthermore, when the moisture content falls below 10%, most changes induced by enzymes and microorganisms cease. In other words, by drying food to remove moisture, enzymes, and microorganisms stop working, and food deterioration and spoilage are less likely to occur, thus increasing shelf life. So, dried food is the best preservative food that has a shelf life while keeping the umami of the food locked in.

In Japan, dried food is used as a generic term for foods that have been dried. On the other hand, dried fish refers to dried seafood. This is not a mistake, as dried food also includes dried fish and shellfish, but the line between dried food and dried fish is difficult to draw.

Some classify dried food as that which has been completely drained of water and can be stored at room temperature and dried seafood as that which has only been moderately drained of water to bring out the flavor of the ingredients and needs to be kept refrigerated.

There is also a classification of dried food as that in which the salt content in the ingredients is low, and dried fish as that in which the salt content in the ingredients is high.

Dried foods include foods other than seafood, such as dried meat, dried vegetables, and dried fruits, but this section will mainly discuss dried foods only.

Dried fish was originally processed to preserve large numbers of fish caught at one time when freezing technology had not yet been developed. Dried fish has a long history in Japan, and some books indicate that there were several dried fish stores in Kyoto during the Heian period (794-1185). The history of dried fish is said to be more than 10,000 years old.

Now, let us try to classify dried fish according to the different ways of drying.

Shioboshi (塩干し)

A photo of Maruboshi
The appearance of Maruboshi

Shioboshi is a fish soaked in salt water and then dried in the sun or by machine. There are two types of Shioboshi: Maruboshi, which is dried as it is, and Hirakiboshi, which is dried after removing the entrails.

 

Suboshi (素干し)

Suboshi is a dried fish or shellfish that has been dried without seasoning.

 

Niboshi (煮干し)

Niboshi is a dried fish made by boiling the raw fish in salted water and then drying it. Typical examples are anchovies and other sardines, which are used for cooking broth or made into chirimenjako (dried sardines). It is low in fat and has few peculiarities, so it can be used to make dashi that has an elegant and sweet taste.

 

Yakiboshi (焼き干し)

Yakiboshi is a dried fish that has had its entrails removed, roasted over a charcoal fire, and dried. Unlike Niboshi, which are dried after boiling, yakiboshi does not lose any of its flavor and is said to produce a pure and rich broth. The most famous type of Yakiboshi is Ago (Flying fish yakiboshi).

 

Chomiboshi (調味干し)

a photo of Milinboshi
The appearance of Milinboshi

Chomiboshi is a dried fish that is seasoned by soaking the raw fish in a seasoning solution during the manufacturing process. Mirinboshi is the most common type of Chomiboshi, which is soaked in a mixture of soy sauce, sugar, mirin, and other seasonings before being dried.

 

Bunkaboshi (文化干し)

Bunkaboshi is a dried fish made by wrapping the raw fish in cellophane, which allows humidity to pass through, and drying it with moisture absorbent material. The name Bunkaboshi was given to this new drying method as an alternative to sun-drying.

 

Haiboshi (灰干し)

Haiboshi is made by covering the raw fish with a special film that allows humidity to pass through and then covering it with volcanic ash to absorb moisture. Haiboshi does not expose the fish to air in the volcanic ash, and takes a long time to remove water and excess fat, so the fish is not oxidized, resulting in dried fish with little odor.

 

Kooriboshi (凍干し)

Kooriboshi is a dried fish made by repeatedly freezing and thawing the raw seafood to remove its water content. This process was born in northern Japan, where winters are severely cold.

 

Kunsei (燻製)

Kunsei is a dried fish made by heating finely ground wood and using heat and smoke to seafood. The result is a dried fish with a unique flavor. Smoked salmon is famous worldwide.

 

Fushi (節)

Fushi is a fish that is smoked with heat and smoke from burning wood and dried until hard. It is used mainly to make soup stock for cooking, such as dried bonito flakes.

 

Types of fish used for dried fish

The following fish are raw materials for dried fish.

Horse mackerel, Pacific saury, Atka mackerel, mackerel, Shishamo, Blackthroat seaperch, Alfonsino, Kinki, Flatfish, Sardine, Herring, Barracuda, Sakura shrimp, Squid, Barracuda, Tilefish, Pacific rudderfish, Cod, Yellow sea bream, Halfbeak, Abalone, Sea cucumber, Firefly squid, Mako shark, Shellfish, Clam, Sandfish, Salmon, Green eel goby, Erabu sea snake, Flying fish, Starspotted smooth-hound, Fivespot flounder, Sea cucumber, Octopus, Moray eel, Sweetfish

 

In summary

If the purpose is only to preserve fish, it is better to remove a lot of water. The fish is not only preserved, but the water content is adjusted for texture and flavor, and in addition, proteolytic enzymes in the fish tissue work to produce new free amino acids, increasing the taste. This, we feel, is the very preparation of sushi toppings. The preparation of Edomae sushi has evolved from a sort of the certain struggle of preserving fish as much as possible. We can’t help but think that the know-how of making dried fish is utilized in this process.

What is Shirako?

Shirako is the name given to the testes of fish when they are used as foodstuffs. Shirako (白子) is the testis of the male fish, while the ovary and fish roe of the female fish are called Mako (真子).

A photo of Madai shirako
The appearance of Red seabream (Madai) shirako

Among them, Blackhead seabream (Kurodai), Pufferfish (Fugu), Mackerel (Saba), Sweetfish (Ayu), and Red seabream (Tai) are considered delicious and have high commercial value and are called the five major shirako. Recently, Pacific cod (Madara) and Chum salmon (Sake) have been added to the list, making seven major shirako.

It can be prepared as tofu, deep fried, steak, grilled, tempura, salted fish, surinagashi (A dish in which seafood is ground and added to soup stock), nigiri sushi, boiled and served with ponzu soy sauce, or grinded and added to sake to make shirako sake.

The main types of shirako served at sushi restaurants are Pacific cod (Madara) and Japanese pufferfish (Torafugu).

A photo of shirako ponzu
The appearance of Shirakoponzu (called Tachipon in Hokkaido)

Pacific cod (Madara) shirako is called Tachi in Hokkaido (Kiku in Iwate and Kumoko in Kyoto), and Matachi in particular is known as a premium product. Matachi is rich in nutrients, including protein, vitamins D, E, B1, and B2, phosphorus, and potassium. It is also low in calories and high in protein, making it a good choice for health care. Shirakoponzu (called Tachipon in Hokkaido), a dish that can only be enjoyed at the freshest Shirako, is served with ponzu vinegar as a side dish with sake.

Its preparation is simply a matter of rinsing raw shirako with coarse salt and quickly soaking it in boiling water. When made into a gunkan-maki, the creamy flavor of fresh shirako without any odor, the crispy crunch of nori seaweed, and the combination of grated daikon and chili and green onion condiments are a delightful combination. This is served not only at high-end sushi restaurants, but also at conveyor-belt sushi restaurants.

a photo of raw torafugu shirako
The appearance of raw torafugu shirako

On the other hand, Torafugu shirako is said to be the most precious part of the high-end torafugu because only a limited amount of shirako can be obtained from one fish, and it is not always available. Torafugu shirako is also called the jewel of the sea, with a creamy taste and high nutritional value. It is most in season from January to March, before the spawning season, and has a flavor so rich that it is hard to put into words.

A photo of Torafugu shirako sushi
The appearance of Torafugu shirako sushi

The way to cook it is simply to grill it until the outer skin is cooked to the point that it is not too tough. Since shirako is tender inside, it is served on a plate with sushi rice and shirako on top. Some sushi chefs also make it into a gunkan-maki. In any case, shirako goes well with sushi rice. The shirako served at conveyor-belt sushi restaurants is not Torafugu, but rather more reasonably priced shirako such as purple puffer, Goma globefish, or Shousai puffer, but the rich flavor is the same.

It is not available at any time of the year and only a few sushi restaurants can offer it. If you are a big fan of foie gras or something similar, definitely try it. As you know, some parts of pufferfish are poisonous, so it is recommended to eat it at a restaurant specializing in pufferfish or a sushi restaurant.

What is white tuna?

A photo of Escolar fillet
The appearance of Escolar fillet.

A major cause of poor performance by sushi restaurants is that the seafood they purchase remains unsold. Instead of being served to customers as sushi or sashimi, it begins to rot and is discarded. When this situation persists, people resort to things they should not do.

It is used as a freshness preservative to extend shelf life because it prevents oxidation of perishable items by absorbing oxygen in a sealed condition. It is used to prevent the deterioration of pharmaceuticals, clothing, cosmetics, etc., so it is not a suspicious chemical, but it is used in the wrong way.

On the other hand, a factor that significantly increases performance is the use of ingredients purchased at low prices and served as overpriced dishes. For example, a food fraud is to offer a lumpfish caviar as a Beluga caviar. This is like exchanging a $1 bill for a $100 bill.

Those who believe in the goodness of human nature may find it hard to accept that such things are happening, but please take a look at the survey results below.

Oceana, a marine conservation organization, previously released a study that found that approximately 60% of supermarkets and restaurants that sell seafood in New York City had some seafood that was different from the product name. The survey involved DNA analysis of 142 seafood samples from 81 supermarkets, food stores, restaurants, and sushi restaurants in New York City. According to the survey, sushi restaurants were found to have the most fish samples that differed from the product names (76%), followed by restaurants (39%), and supermarkets and food stores (29%). The most common type of fish found to be different from the actual product was white tuna. Of the 17 samples of white tuna brought back from sushi restaurants, 16 or 94% were Escola.

By the way, what kind of fish is white tuna in this survey? White tuna does not exist. In Japan, Yake maguro, which died after being caught violently on longlines, is sometimes called so.

Overseas, however, this does not seem to be the case. Often marketed as “white tuna” or “super white tuna,” this is the common name for two species of fish, Escolar (Aburasokomutsu) and Oilfish (Baramutsu). The flesh of Escolar (Aburasokomutsu) and Oilfish (Baramutsu) are rich in taste and can be substantially cheaper than that of other fish species, leading to some vendors intentionally mislabelling it as Butterfish or Cod.

Escolar contains a waxy ester called gempylotoxin which makes up to 90% of the fish’s total fat content and gives it its characteristic texture. Despite its name, gempylotoxin is not poisonous. However, humans can’t digest this waxy substance, and consuming it can lead to stomach cramps, intestinal discomfort, and an unfortunate encounter with the toilet for some individuals.

Oilfish (Baramutsu) has been banned by the Ministry of Health, Labor and Welfare in Japan since 1970 as a food that falls under the Food Sanitation Law and is not distributed. Escolar (Aburasokomutsu) is also a member of the same family, and its sale is prohibited under the same law.

A photo of Aburasokomutsu Sushi or Sashimi
Escolar and Oilfish are sold in supermarkets and is therefore an edible fish in the U.S. and other countries.

In South Korea, where it has been consumed as white tuna, there was a move to amend the law to prohibit its consumption, but it has continued to be distributed disguised as tuna since then. In China, some companies offer this species disguised as salmon and cod. In Taiwan, on the other hand, there are no restrictions on distribution, and the fish is eaten as sashimi. Of course, in the U.S. and other countries, it is sold in supermarkets and is therefore an edible fish.

In other words, the only problem is that cheap fish is disguised as tuna to sell it at a higher price.

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