Anago | Sushiblog－Sushiuniversity

There are two ways to make anago nigiri sushi, “skin-up ” and “skin-down”.

A photo of anago nigiri sushi — The appearance of anago nigiri sushi

“Anago nigiri sushi” is a type of sushi where eel, simmered and cut into a fillet, is placed on top of vinegared rice and brushed with a sauce called “tsume.” The head and bones of the eel are simmered to create a broth, which is then seasoned and reduced to make the tsume.

When cooked, anago (conger eel) becomes very tender. On the flip side, this means it also falls apart easily. “Falling apart” refers to the dish becoming mushy and falling apart. The fish’s bones and flesh become mushy, resulting in an unappetizing appearance.

There are two solutions to prevent falling apart.
The first is to wait until the anago broth has cooled before removing the eel. This is the most effective method to prevent falling apart. As the eel cools, the gelatinous substance in the flesh solidifies, allowing it to be easily handled even when the anago broth has cooled.

The downside of this method is that the eel solidifies in a curled shape. When using it for nigiri sushi, it might be more convenient if the eel is stretched out. Additionally, since the eel hardens when cooled, forcing it flat while it’s hard can cause the flesh to crack.

The second method is to cook the eel in a bamboo basket and remove it while it is still hot.

That’s all you need to do to prepare the anago.

Next, we will describe the characteristics of anago itself. The naval (actually the anus) in the middle of the body serves as the border separating the head part (top) and tail part (bottom) of the eel. The fat and umami are distributed better on the top. People used to say that since the bottom moves more it is more tasty. This applies to fish in general.

Additionally, in sushi restaurants, it’s also often said, “the top should be served skin-up and the bottom should be served skin-down.” Please refer to the following for explanations of skin-up and skin-down.

As shown in this image, skin-up means that the skin side is on top and the meaty side is on the rice.

As shown in this image, skin-down means that the meaty side is facing up and the skin side is on the rice.

To tell the truth, anago easily melts apart when it is boiled and broth enters the part where it separates, so the appearance is not as appealing. In this case, it is better to make sushi using skin-up. But unless the crack is extremely obvious, whether to skin up or skin down is up to the sushi chef’s discretion. Skin-up can be cooked with tsume, and skin-down can be seasoned with salt and citrus juice to bring out the flavor.

For your reference.

We hope this information will be helpful.

Revision date: May 30, 2025

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Which wines pair well with sushi?

Fermented beverages such as sake and wine pair well with sushi. Sake is made from rice. So it only makes sense that this would pair well with sushi – also made with rice. It is also the only alcohol that eliminates the smell of fish and shellfish.

On the other hand, when considering compatibility with wine, toppings that use strong seasonings like Nikiri, including tuna and conger eel with sweet filling, match superbly with matured red wines such as Pinot Noir.

For example, Bourgogne Chambolle Musigny, Cote de Beaune, Morey-Saint-Denis, etc.

White wines such as a lighter Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling go well with white fish flavored with Citrus sudachi and yuzu or squid eaten with salt.

For example, Bourgogne Chablis.

However, neither red nor white wine goes well with herring or salmon roe. The iron specific to wine is said to contribute to the fishy smell of fish roe.

In the research of one wine manufacturer, the factor that generates the smell of fish and shellfish is the iron (ferrous ion) found in wine. Wines with relatively low levels of iron such as Sherry (Spain), Champagne (France) fermented twice in the bottle, Cava (Spain) and Franciacorta (Italy) mature without adding sulfite, which prevents oxidization. This reduces the ferrous ion in the wine and the fishy smell is virtually unnoticeable.

Either way, the research of wine and sushi pairings is still insufficient and there haven’t yet been any reports of unexpected compatibility. If anyone out there has found a wine that does pair well with herring or salmon roe, please be sure to share that information with us.

Related contents: See Best Wine For Sushi?

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We hope this information will be helpful.

Revision date: January 17, 2018

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Judge a chef’s ability and quality of the shop by its Anago

A photo of Anago — The simmered anago is soft and tender, with a melt-in-your-mouth flavor.

Anago and Edomae Sushi

Sushi restaurants that advertise “Edomae style” on the sign somewhat fear customers who order Anago (Japanese conger) right off the bat. If the customer then eats as if they are really taking the time to taste the sushi, then any chef not fully confident in their skills will want to hide under the sushi counter.

Anago is a topping that really demonstrates a chef’s skills (or lack thereof). Edomae-style sushi chefs work on many toppings. Anago is a perfect example of these toppings.

In the morning, sushi chefs purchase anago that has undergone Ikejime. The anago is placed on a special cutting board, and a skewer is inserted into the pectoral fin to secure it firmly.

A knife is inserted from the back, following the spine, and the fish is cut open while holding it firmly with one hand, all the way to the tail. The internal organs and spine are removed, and the head is separated from the body. Finally, the flesh is scraped with a knife to remove any remaining impurities, completing the process. While it may seem like a simple task when described in words, it requires a high level of skill.

Before cooking, the anago is rubbed with salt to remove the slime. Rubbing causes moisture to be drawn out of the eel. This moisture contains the fishy odor of the eel. This process removes the characteristic muddy smell from the flesh. Additionally, as the moisture is removed, the flesh becomes more compact, making it less likely to fall apart even after prolonged simmering. However, the flesh does become slightly firmer due to the loss of moisture. Some sushi chefs rinse the eel with hot water and carefully remove the slime with a knife.

Since the fish is plain, the flavoring is also a subtle skill and not an easy task. Depending on the shop, the chef may make the sushi with the boiled fish, use Nitsume to bring out the flavor or lightly roast the fish before combining it with the rice. The chef’s ideas and abilities are apparent in the final dish. If the sushi is made from the freshly boiled fish, it should be soft and melt in your mouth…if the chef knows what they are doing! Lightly roasted Anago will have an aroma that fills your entire mouth.

The work this topping takes to serve is a chance for sushi shops to show off their specialties, but it is also a clear indicator of the quality of the shop. The level of the chef and quality of the sushi shop will be revealed as soon as you place Anago in your mouth.

We hope this information will be helpful.

Revision date: June 11, 2025

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