Tag: Edomae Shigoto（Edo-style preparations）

In Edo period, not only transportation systems weren’t developed like now, but also there weren’t refrigerators nor freezers which is essential for storage. Even fresh seafood loses its freshness over time and its quality could go bad. And so, various methods were invented in order to prepare fish for the best condition to store, by performing “Edomae Shigoto” on fish when they were still fresh and by condensing umami more than using raw fish. Classic examples are technics such as “curing in salt or vinegar”, “steaming, simmering”, and “immersing in sauce”. As a result of wisdom and inventions of ancestors like these, it was eventually completed as “Edomae Shigoto” to bring out umami the most.

Why is Zuke used for lean meat?

Zuke is one of the traditional Edo-style sushi methods. It is said that it was started in the Edo period to stop tuna from rotting when there were large amounts of the fish in the market. Now that there has been advances in refrigeration technology, it’s no longer necessary, but maturing the fish gives it a completely different taste and brings out its umami. Zuke is divided into two broad methods. Here we describe the characteristics of each.

Recently, most sushi restaurants incorporate the “Single Zuke”.

Each slice of tuna is soaked separately, so it can mature quickly. The immersion time is only a few minutes. The idea is to marinate just enough so that the tuna’s aroma remains and the soy sauce doesn’t overtake it.

On the other hand, the old Edo-style method is to perform Zuke after parboiling.

Parboiling means to wrap the fish in a wet cloth, and poor boiling water on the wrapping until the color of the tuna changes color, then turn the fish over and repeat the process. The fish is then put in ice water so the heat doesn’t go too deep in the meat. It is immediately removed once it cools so that it doesn’t get too watery. The tuna is then put in Zuke soy sauce and left to marinate for about half a day. In this method, the soy sauce only soaks into the surface part where the color changed from the parboiling, so the flavor of the tuna remains.

Both methods keep the maximum tuna flavor possible. Tuna is an essential part of Edo-style sushi. There is great diversity between sushi restaurants in the parts, marinating time and flavor of Zuke, which creates a new, original flavor when the lean meat of the tuna soaks up the soy sauce. The fattiest cuts of tuna are most popular. The lean meat has only become more popular due to a rekindled interest in zuke, but in fact during the peak of the bubble economy, there was a time when high-end restaurants in Ginza didn’t know what to do with all their leftover lean tuna meat. It’s almost unbelievable to think of it now.

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Revision date: August 1, 2017

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Isn’t it true that fish is all about freshness? Not quite.

A photo of fish seller — Are the fish on display fresh?

Many people believe that when it comes to seafood, freshness is everything. But is that really the case? This article explores the complex relationship between freshness, flavor, and the way fish is processed and transported around the world.

The forms in which seafood is transported from fishing ports to consumption areas can be broadly divided into four categories: live fish, fresh fish, frozen fish, and processed products. We will omit the explanation of processed products, as it is self-explanatory. Regarding frozen fish, there are differences depending on the country. In the United States, fish that has been frozen and then thawed is also called “fresh fish.”In Japan, refrigerated fish or live fish that have been killed is called “fresh fish,” and when frozen fish is sold, it must be labeled as “thawed.”

In countries outside of Asia, “live fish” may refer to fish swimming in aquariums. Since it is not commonly seen in markets or supermarkets, we will explain it here.

Live fish, as the name suggests, refers to fish that are still alive, such as those kept in tanks or aquariums. They are transported from fishing ports in ships equipped with tanks or in specialized trucks with tanks on their cargo beds. There is also a dedicated section for live fish at the Toyosu Market. Once they are slaughtered, they become fresh fish.

One reason for the demand for live fish is that they can be caught from the tank while still swimming, prepared on the spot, and served. In addition to the freshness of the ingredients, there is also the value of the “experience” it offers customers, which can serve as an added value for restaurants. This applies to shrimp and squid “Odori.”

Another reason is that, depending on how they are processed after being caught, even the same individual fish can vary greatly in quality (amount of umami) and shelf life. For example, large fish that have been properlybled and had their nerves severed and fish that have died naturally after being caught (nojime) and have not been processed in any way (although they are cooled with ice) can have a shelf life difference of more than a week.The solution to this issue is live fish. Most seafood available in supermarkets in many countries is Nojime-processed.

Additionally, the state immediately after live fish are killeded is sometimes referred to as “seisengyo.” Depending on freshness, it is categorized as “seisengyo” (highly fresh) or “sengyo” (slightly less fresh). “Seisengyo” is used for raw dishes like sashimi or sushi, while ‘sengyo’ is primarily used for cooked dishes like grilled or simmered fish.

However, it is not that simple. Transporting and managing live fish involves various challenges, such as water quality deterioration, transportation costs, fish stress, and equipment investment.

In Japan, such extensive research has been conducted on freshness.

Of course, it’s a well-known fact among professional chefs that some fish don’t rely solely on freshness. Of course there is importance in freshness, but that’s just one element. It’s generally understood that flavor and taste improve with time (maturity).

The umami* found in the meat of the fish is essentially inosinic acid and glutamic acid. After a certain amount of time has passed after a fish has died, the body stiffens and not long after that the rigor lets up. The inosinic acid, which the umami is composed of, comes after the fish has stiffened. It then accumulates in the process of the body relaxing. This is the same in beef and pork in which there is no umami in the meat unless it is hung and matured for a time.

Therefore, ikizukuri sashimi that is still twitching usually won’t have the taste or depth of umami. However, the firm texture of sashimi is also an undeniable enjoyable aspect. It is not all about the umami.

*Glutamic acid, Inosinic acid and Guanylic acid are representative components of umami. Guanylic acid is found in kelp and vegetables (tomato, Chinese cabbage, green tea, etc.) as well as Parmesan cheese, inosinic acid is found in fish (bonito, macheral, sea bream, etc.) and meat (pork, chicken, etc.) while Guanylic acid is abundant in mushrooms (especially dried shiitake mushrooms).

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Revision date: June 16, 2025

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Why are the prices at high-end sushi restaurants and conveyor belt sushi restaurants so different?

Conveyor belt sushi restaurants and high-end sushi restaurants in areas like Ginza both serve sushi, but they differ significantly in their roles and the quality of the experience they offer.

The most obvious difference is the price range. Conveyor belt sushi offers dishes starting at 100 yen per plate, making it affordable and popular among families and students. In contrast, high-end sushi restaurants primarily offer “omakase” courses, which can cost between 10,000 and 50,000 yen per person. These establishments are often chosen for special occasions or business entertaining, where customers seek an extraordinary experience.

The serving style is also contrasting. At conveyor belt sushi restaurants, the self-service style where sushi is served on a conveyor belt is the norm. Recently, touch-panel ordering and high-speed conveyor belts have been introduced to prioritize efficiency and speed. In contrast, high-end sushi restaurants primarily use a counter-style setup where chefs prepare each piece of sushi by hand and serve it directly to customers. Sushi is not merely a meal but an experience of “once-in-a-lifetime” interaction between the chef and the customer.

At the core of this “experience” lies the sushi chef’s observational skills and conversational abilities. Chefs at high-end sushi restaurants constantly observe customers’ eating progress, expressions, and how much they drink. They make split-second judgments about whether the sushi is being enjoyed, the timing for the next piece, and the customer’s hunger level, all while serving dishes at an impeccable pace. They do more than just serve sushi; they may also briefly explain the origin of the ingredients or the preparation process, or engage in conversation to lighten the mood. This ability to maintain the perfect balance—neither too much nor too little—while giving customers a sense of comfort and familiarity is a testament to the chef’s experience and human touch. Such interactions are a unique feature of high-end sushi restaurants that cannot be experienced at conveyor-belt sushi restaurants.

There are also significant differences in the toppings used and the depth of preparation. At conveyor belt sushi restaurants, cooking processes are streamlined to accommodate large volumes, and frozen or pre-processed ingredients are commonly used. Traditional Edomae-style techniques such as kobujime (kelp-wrapping), sujime (vinegar-marinating) are rarely seen, and the standard style involves placing ingredients on rice shaped by machines. This streamlining contributes to the appeal of enjoying sushi affordably and quickly.
In contrast, high-end sushi restaurants use fresh, natural ingredients sourced daily, with each ingredient prepared in the most suitable way. The sushi chefs carefully craft each piece to bring out the individual characteristics of the ingredients, and even the rice is meticulously prepared, with attention to the type of rice, vinegar, and temperature. The chefs adjust the size and firmness of each piece based on their judgment to achieve the perfect harmony between the ingredients and the rice.

Furthermore, there is a significant difference in the atmosphere of the restaurants themselves. At conveyor belt sushi restaurants, the layout prioritizes efficiency, with tables as the main seating arrangement. The interior design and furnishings are often cost-effective, creating a bright and casual atmosphere. In contrast, high-end sushi restaurants feature natural wood counters, carefully selected tableware, and soft lighting, with a consistent aesthetic throughout the space. Even the chairs, chopstick rests, and chopsticks are made from high-quality materials, all functioning as part of the stage setting for the art of sushi.

Even among high-end sushi restaurants, there is a wide range of styles. For example, some restaurants, like “Sukiyabashi Jiro,” serve only sushi, with no appetizers or side dishes, focusing solely on the sushi itself. Others offer a course that includes appetizers, grilled dishes, and simmered dishes before the sushi, allowing customers to enjoy the pairing with sake. Especially in the latter style, rare local sake and seasonal limited-edition sake from all over the country are available, and the entire course is presented as a story, taking into account the compatibility of the dishes with the sake.

On the other hand, conveyor belt sushi is basically designed as a place to enjoy sushi quickly and easily, with drinks centered around beer and standard sake. Appetizers and side dishes are not emphasized. In this way, even among high-end sushi restaurants, there are those that “compete solely on the quality of their sushi” In this way, conveyor belt sushi and high-end sushi restaurants have completely different philosophies and roles, from price, serving style, ingredients, and space to the relationship with the chefs. Conveyor belt sushi combines efficiency and fun, making sushi a more everyday part of Japanese cuisine. High-end sushi restaurants present sushi as an “art of cuisine,” blending technical skill and aesthetic sensibility to convey the depth of sushi and the essence of Japanese culture.

By understanding the unique appeal of each and choosing according to your purpose or mood, you can fully appreciate the multifaceted nature of sushi as a dish.

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Revision date: June 2, 2025

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Judge a chef’s ability and quality of the shop by its Anago

A photo of Anago — The simmered anago is soft and tender, with a melt-in-your-mouth flavor.

Anago and Edomae Sushi

Sushi restaurants that advertise “Edomae style” on the sign somewhat fear customers who order Anago (Japanese conger) right off the bat. If the customer then eats as if they are really taking the time to taste the sushi, then any chef not fully confident in their skills will want to hide under the sushi counter.

Anago is a topping that really demonstrates a chef’s skills (or lack thereof). Edomae-style sushi chefs work on many toppings. Anago is a perfect example of these toppings.

In the morning, sushi chefs purchase anago that has undergone Ikejime. The anago is placed on a special cutting board, and a skewer is inserted into the pectoral fin to secure it firmly.

A knife is inserted from the back, following the spine, and the fish is cut open while holding it firmly with one hand, all the way to the tail. The internal organs and spine are removed, and the head is separated from the body. Finally, the flesh is scraped with a knife to remove any remaining impurities, completing the process. While it may seem like a simple task when described in words, it requires a high level of skill.

Before cooking, the anago is rubbed with salt to remove the slime. Rubbing causes moisture to be drawn out of the eel. This moisture contains the fishy odor of the eel. This process removes the characteristic muddy smell from the flesh. Additionally, as the moisture is removed, the flesh becomes more compact, making it less likely to fall apart even after prolonged simmering. However, the flesh does become slightly firmer due to the loss of moisture. Some sushi chefs rinse the eel with hot water and carefully remove the slime with a knife.

Since the fish is plain, the flavoring is also a subtle skill and not an easy task. Depending on the shop, the chef may make the sushi with the boiled fish, use Nitsume to bring out the flavor or lightly roast the fish before combining it with the rice. The chef’s ideas and abilities are apparent in the final dish. If the sushi is made from the freshly boiled fish, it should be soft and melt in your mouth…if the chef knows what they are doing! Lightly roasted Anago will have an aroma that fills your entire mouth.

The work this topping takes to serve is a chance for sushi shops to show off their specialties, but it is also a clear indicator of the quality of the shop. The level of the chef and quality of the sushi shop will be revealed as soon as you place Anago in your mouth.

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Revision date: June 11, 2025

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Kohada (Gizzard shad) flavor is refined by exquisite salt seasoning!

According to most sushi masters, salt is the defining factor in the taste of gizzard shad (kohada).

Before seasoning gizzard shad with vinegar, the process starts with salting the spread open shad. It is the length the fish is salted that makes or breaks the fish. The reason for salting the gizzard shad is not just for flavoring, but also to draw out the umami of the fish. Salting for too long results in a briny taste; too short and the umami won’t come to the fore. The timing must be perfect in order to achieve that emotional “umami” moment.

This timing can be compared to boiling eggs: 3 minutes gets you soft-boiled eggs but five minutes gets you hard-boiled eggs. With eggs you can follow this rule of thumb, but no such rule exists for the spotted shad. The conditions for the salting time differ depending on the temperature, humidity, size of the fish and the degree of fat.

For example, a more slender fish in the middle of summer may be salted for 30 minutes, but a fatty fish in the winter needs to be salted for four hours. Just a few minutes longer or shorter than the perfect salting time completely changes the taste of the final dish.

Skilled chefs adjust the time on a daily basis according to the weather and the quality of the fish. Shops that can provide precisely the same spotted shad taste every day of the year are truly the best of the best.

Related contents:
TYPES OF EDO-STYLE PREPARATIONS

Gizzard shad (Kohada)

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Revision date: May 29, 2017

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How to make sushi rice for Nigiri sushi by a sushi master

The real way of making sushi rice for Nigiri sushi by a sushi master. There are 4 tips!

In order to bring sushi to life, it is extremely important how sushi rice (shari or vinegared rice) is made. Let me introduce a cooking method, a top grade sushi master uses.

First, wash the rice gently. Leave it to soak for about half an hour and let it fully absorb water. The most important point here is to keep the water level which includes the rice consistent (The first tip).

The rice should be cooked with water with a ratio of 10 to 9. A little less water than the regular rice, so that it is cooked slightly hard. This is the second tip.

While you wait for the rice to cook, make awasezu* by adding salt and sugar in vinegar. Also, set up hangiri (rice-cooling tub) for mixing the rice. Don’t forget to wipe the inside with a wet kitchen towel to prevent the rice from sticking to it.

Once the rice has finished cooking, leave it to steam for about 15 minutes and dump it out into hangiri. Pour awasezu immediately and let it sit for 30 seconds or so. Because the rice absorbs vinegar only while it is hot, managing this process quickly is the third tip.

After letting it sit for 30 seconds, spread the rice out with shamoji (rice spatula) as if cutting it down. Make sure that vinegar goes around using a cutting motion vertically. Additionally, fan the rice using a uchiwa (fan) to remove the moisture of vinegar and mix the rice with a cutting motion horizontally this time. Fanning with uchiwa is not to cool down the rice (Do not put the rice in the fridge to cool it down.), but to dry up the excess moisture of vinegar. Moving both hands as you consider it is the fourth tip.

After the rice is vinegared evenly, assemble it in one place and cover it with a damp kitchen towel. In about an hour, it is ready when sushi rice is settled. (Body temperature) Even in a hurry, if you don’t give at least 30 minutes, it won’t help the taste of course, and also won’t make it easy to form the rice for sushi. If you rush at the end, all the delicate attention up to this will be in vain.

*A professional recipe for awasezu is as follows. This is a recipe for short grain rice

species such as Koshihikari and Sasanishiki. Slightly sticky rice like calrose is not suitable for sushi rice.

(Ingredients)

Rice：360cc

Water：330 – 340cc

Komezu (Rice vineger)：50 – 60cc

Salt：1 tsp – 2 tsp

Sugar：1 tbsp plus 1 tsp – 2 tbsp plus 2 tsp

＊If you use Akazu (Red vinegar made from fermented sake lees), add almost no sugar.

(Ginza kyubey Ingredients)

Rice：360cc

Water：330 – 340cc

Komezu (Mizkan Rice vineger)：27 cc

Salt：2 tsp

Sugar：No

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Revision date: May 20, 2025

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