Two Ways of Working with Plant-Based Ingredients: From Shojin Ryori to Edomae Sushi

What Is Modoki Cuisine?

A photo of ganmodoki — It is said that the name “Ganmodoki” originates from the fact that, as a dish in Buddhist vegetarian cuisine, it was created to mimic the flavor and texture of goose (gan) meat.

The term “modoki,” as used in “ganmodoki,” refers to something made to resemble something else. While there are various theories regarding its etymology, the most widely accepted theory is that ganmodoki came to be called so because it was traditionally said to resemble wild goose meat (gan). Ganmodoki, made with tofu as a base and vegetables added to create a flavor and texture reminiscent of meat, is one of Japan’s most representative “modoki” dishes.

“Modoki” dishes originated within shojin ryori (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine), which developed alongside Buddhism. Within a culinary culture that avoids meat and fish, considerable culinary ingenuity was developed to use plant-based ingredients—such as tofu, yuba, fu, vegetables, and mushrooms—to replicate the appearance, texture, and flavor of animal-based ingredients.

In other words, the defining characteristic of “modoki” dishes is the use of plant-based ingredients to resemble other ingredients.

The Culinary Art of Shojin Ryori

A photo of plant-based-burger patty — There are various plant-based foods designed to mimic different types of meat.

The development of shojin ryori did not merely result in the creation of dishes that exclude meat and fish. To compensate for the mild flavors of plant-based ingredients and create satisfying meals, cooks made creative use of seasonings such as sesame oil, miso, and soy sauce, along with techniques such as deep-frying, grilling, simmering, and pureeing.

Within this context, the concept of preparing plant-based ingredients to resemble other ingredients also became highly refined.

This philosophy can also be seen in modern plant-based cuisine. Making hamburgers or fried chicken using soy-based meat substitutes can be viewed as a modern form of “modoki” cuisine, in the sense that it recreates meat dishes using plant-based ingredients.

However, it is important to note that not all plant-based cuisine is “modoki” cuisine.

Beyond Modoki: The Edomae Sushi Approach

A photo of avocado sushi — Avocado sushi clearly brings out the high-quality plant-based fats found in avocados.

The difference between “modoki” cuisine and Edomae sushi lies in what the plant-based ingredients are intended to express.

In “modoki” cuisine, plant-based ingredients are made to resemble other ingredients. For example, tofu is prepared to resemble meat, while yuba or fu may be used in dishes that evoke fish or meat. In this context, “resembling something else” is the very essence of the culinary expression.

In contrast, when plant-based ingredients are used in Edomae sushi, there is no need to make them resemble fish or meat.

With shiitake mushrooms, the focus is on their aroma and umami; with vegetables, on their seasonal sweetness and fragrance; and with seaweed, on its unique flavor. By applying techniques such as searing, simmering, pickling, or curing, and combining these ingredients with vinegared rice, the result is a piece of sushi whose character comes from those ingredients themselves.

In other words, “modoki” cuisine is about “expressing something else,” while Edomae sushi is about “expressing the ingredient itself.”

Of course, this does not mean the two are completely distinct. There are dishes in shojin ryori that highlight the ingredients themselves, and there are techniques in Edomae sushi that significantly alter the appearance and properties of the ingredients.

Nevertheless, when plant-based ingredients are used in sushi, the fact that they are treated as sushi ingredients in their own right—rather than as substitutes for fish—reflects a distinctive philosophy of Edomae sushi.

Understanding Buri, Hiramasa, and Kanpachi: Why Sushi Chefs Must Know the Difference Between Seriola Species

To the general public, Japanese amberjack (Buri), yellowtail amberjack (Hiramasa), and greater amberjack (Kanpachi) look very similar. Even for Japanese people, it is difficult to accurately distinguish them by appearance alone when they are sold as fillets. Because their flavors and textures share many common characteristics, they are sometimes confused with one another. Therefore, the fact that general consumers perceive these fish as similar is not a major issue in itself.

However, the situation is different for sushi chefs. Correctly identifying the species of fish in front of them is fundamental knowledge required for making sushi. Even among closely related fish in the genus Seriola, there are differences in flesh texture, fat quality, mouthfeel, aroma, suitable aging methods, and peak season depending on the species. By accurately identifying each species, a chef can bring out the unique qualities of the fish to their fullest potential.

Buri (Seriola quinqueradiata), Hiramasa (Seriola aureovittata), and Kanpachi (Seriola dumerili) are all closely related species belonging to the genus Seriola. Fish in the genus Seriola are widely distributed in coastal waters around the world, from tropical to temperate regions. Because they share common characteristics, such as similar body shapes and yellow lateral lines, they are particularly difficult to distinguish when they are young or sold as fillets.

The most common species in Japanese coastal waters is Buri (Seriola quinqueradiata). This species is a representative migratory fish found exclusively in the northwestern Pacific around Japan. It is also known in Japan as a fish whose name changes as it grows, with each growth stage having a different name.

Hiramasa (Seriola aureovittata) is distributed in the Pacific and Indian Oceans. Hiramasa found around Japan were once classified as Seriola lalandi, but recent genetic studies have resulted in a taxonomic revision, and the Japanese population is now recognized as Seriola aureovittata.

Kanpachi (Seriola dumerili) has an even wider distribution than Buri or Hiramasa, inhabiting waters of the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans, as well as the Indian Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea. In Japan, it is called “Kanpachi” because of the distinctive diagonal markings on its head that resemble the character 八 (hachi).

In addition, the genus Seriola includes closely related species found around the world, such as the highfin amberjack (Seriola rivoliana). There are also species that are not commonly found in Japan, including the california yellowtail (Seriola dorsalis) along the Pacific coast of North America, as well as the banded rudderfish (Seriola zonata) and lesser amberjack (Seriola fasciata) in the Atlantic Ocean.

In other words, many species belonging to the genus Seriola are referred to by broad names such as “yellowtail” or “amberjack” around the world. Outside Japan, Buri, Hiramasa, and Kanpachi are often grouped together under broader names rather than being distinguished by species. However, they are distinct species with different characteristics, and understanding these biological differences is essential for preparing authentic sushi.

A sushi chef is not merely a technician who cuts fish and places it on vinegared rice. A sushi chef is a craftsman who, based on an understanding of the fish’s species, origin, and characteristics, prepares each fish in the way that best suits it.

Correctly identifying Buri, Hiramasa, and Kanpachi is not merely a matter of knowledge. It is a sign of respect for the fish and a responsibility that sushi chefs have to accurately convey the true value of the ingredients.