During the Edo period, samurai would change their names at Genpuku (coming-of-age ceremony and career stages. Following this tradition, fish that are called by names as they grow older/larger are called “shusseuo (出世魚)”, are considered lucky and are used in cooking to celebrate milestones in life.
Shusseuo doesn’t just change in name, they also change in taste. The bigger the body, the more fat. However, young fish also have their own delicious, refreshing taste unique to their age. For example, using the young fish for deep-frying and fatty fish as sashimi is an interesting way to put it.
In addition to fish commonly referred to as “syusseuo,” there are other fish whose names change as they grow. According to “A Study of Japanese Fish Names,” there are 82 species of fish whose names change as they grow. Bluefin tuna (Maguro) and Greater amberjack (Kanpachi) are representative examples. Maguro changes from “komaji” to “meji” to “maguro” to “oomaguro.” Kanpachi changes from “mojaco” to “shiwoko” to ‘akahana’ to “kanpachi.”Fish such as konoshiro, sawara, unagi, sake, and koi are not considered “syusseuo.” It is not the case that all fish whose names change as they grow are classified as “syusseuo.” Rather, these are fish whose taste improves as they grow, undergo minimal changes over time, and were highly valued in eras when preservation and transportation technologies were not yet developed.
Incidentally, opinions are divided on whether to call Maguro “Shusseuo.” Maguro is also called “Meji” or “Chubou” when it is small, and its name changes as it grows. Fishermen distinguish between different stages of Maguro before it becomes an adult fish, but when it is sold in stores, even if it is slightly small, it seems that people tend to trust the name ‘Maguro’ and do not treat it as a fish that has “made it.”
A good representative fish of shusseuo is the yellowtail (Buri). Its name changes as it grows and there are various forms of their names depending on the region. In the Kanto region, it changes from Wakashi (15-20cm) to Inada (30-40cm) to Warasa (60cm) and then to Buri (80cm or greater). It is said to be most delicious at 40 cm or longer and even if the body is plump, inada often has little fat.
Even if the name is the same, depending on the region, it may be referring to a different size. For example, inada is a fish up to 40 cm in Kanto but in Tohoku and Tokai, it refers to small fish of 15-20 cm. Further, although it is not related to its growth, those caught in Tohoku during summer are called “ao”. In Toyama, they are called “gan” and “gando”.
Finally, the changing names of fish demonstrate the breadth of culture. We should cherish this local diversity present in the names of our fish that capture the abundant food culture and importance of the seasons.
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Revision date: August 8, 2025
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Lumpfish roe is sold as a substitute for caviar. The size of each egg is about 2 mm in diameter and it is colored with squid ink. This gives it a taste and appearance similar to caviar. The market price is an astonishing USD $5 per 50 g.
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