“Kaiseki” is one of Japan’s representative traditional course meals. Each dish is meticulously prepared, using seasonal ingredients and presented with beautiful plating.
In fact, there are two types of “Kaiseki”. One is “懐石料理”, the other is “会席料理”. Although both share the same pronunciation in Japanese, their purpose and atmosphere are entirely different.
Kaiseki cuisine (懐石料理) is a quiet, refined cuisine that developed as part of the tea ceremony. It is a light meal served to entertain guests, featuring subtle flavors. It values the natural flavors and seasonal beauty of ingredients.
On the other hand, Kaiseki cuisine (会席料理) is a lavish course meal served at banquets and celebrations. It features many dishes served in sequence, designed to be enjoyed for their visual beauty and festive atmosphere.
Both types of Kaiseki embody the Japanese spirit of hospitality and an aesthetic appreciation for the seasons. Experiencing Kaiseki is not merely eating a meal; it is experiencing Japanese culture itself.
Historical Background
Kaiseki cuisine (懐石料理) and Kaiseki cuisine (会席料理) both originated from the spirit of hospitality, but their purposes and histories differ.
Kaiseki cuisine (懐石料理) – Cuisine born from the tea ceremony
Kaiseki cuisine (懐石料理) was refined and popularized in the 16th century by the tea master Sen no Rikyū (千利休). It is a light meal served before a tea ceremony to warm the body and settle the mind. The term “Kaiseki” originates from the idea of “holding a warm stone against one’s stomach to ease hunger.” The cuisine is simple, conveying quiet beauty through the natural flavor of the ingredients, the arrangement of each dish, and the harmony among the tableware.
Kaiseki cuisine (会席料理) – Cuisine developed from banquet culture
In contrast, Kaiseki cuisine (会席料理) developed from the banquet culture of samurai and aristocrats. It is a style designed for enjoying food and savoring sake at celebratory gatherings. It is more elaborate than Kaiseki cuisine (懐石料理), featuring a greater number of dishes and a more luxurious appearance. It can be described as “social cuisine” that fosters social interaction.
Differences in Structure and Seasoning
Purpose of Serving
Kaiseki cuisine (懐石料理) is a meal served before a tea ceremony to prepare the mind. Kaiseki cuisine (会席料理) is a meal enjoyed with others at banquets or celebratory occasions.
Course Structure
Kaiseki cuisine (懐石料理) is fundamentally based on “one soup, three dishes” (一汁三菜). It typically consists of rice, soup, and three side dishes. In a typical Cha-Kaiseki (Tea Ceremony Kaiseki) menu, dishes are served in a precise and ceremonial order — beginning with oshiki (折敷), followed by wanmono (椀盛), grilled dishes (yakimono), simmered or vinegared dishes (shiizakana / 強肴), suimono (clear soup / 吸い物), hassun (八寸), yutō and kōnomono (湯桶・香の物), and finally omogashi and koicha (主菓子・濃茶).
Kaiseki cuisine (会席料理) is a more elaborate style, featuring many dishes served in sequence from appetizers to dessert. Kaiseki Ryori (会席料理) is a course meal enjoyed in a banquet style. In a typical menu, dishes are served in a specific sequence — starting with appetizers (zensai), followed by clear soup (suimono), sashimi, grilled dishes (yakimono), simmered dishes (nimono), deep-fried dishes (agemono), steamed dishes (mushimono), and vinegared dishes (sunomono). The meal concludes with rice and red miso soup (tomewan), pickles (kou no mono), and seasonal fruits (mizugashi). Some restaurants also include an aperitif (shokuzen-shu) to begin the dining experience.
Seasoning
Kaiseki cuisine (懐石料理) features delicate, subtly seasoned dishes that highlight the natural flavors of the ingredients. Kaiseki cuisine (会席料理), on the other hand, features more diverse and vibrant flavors, incorporating grilled, fried, and simmered dishes.
Tableware and Presentation
Kaiseki cuisine (懐石料理) tableware emphasizes seasonal sensibility and understated beauty. By contrast, Kaiseki cuisine (会席料理) uses colorful and ornate tableware, creating a visually pleasing presentation.
Differences in Serving Style
Kaiseki cuisine (懐石料理) – A quiet, meticulous flow
Kaiseki cuisine (懐石料理) follows the ritual flow of the tea ceremony, with dishes served one at a time to each guest. The host observes the guest’s pace and serves each dish with care. The spirit of “consideration” and “harmony” is felt within the quiet, serene atmosphere.
Kaiseki cuisine (会席料理) – Lively and Festive
Kaiseki cuisine (会席料理) is served at banquets and celebrations, often with dishes presented simultaneously, creating a lively atmosphere. It is a bright, social dining style enjoyed with conversation and sake.
Where can you eat it?
Kaiseki cuisine (懐石料理) and Kaiseki cuisine (会席料理) are dishes meant to be savored in special places and experiences.
Kaiseki cuisine (懐石料理) can be enjoyed in tea houses where you can experience a traditional tea ceremony, or in quiet temple lodgings (shukubō). Through the care infused into each dish, you can experience Japan’s “beauty of stillness.”
Kaiseki cuisine (会席料理) is typically enjoyed at Onsen Ryokan (hot-spring inns) or traditional ryōtei restaurants. It features multi-course meals using seasonal ingredients, beautifully presented, making it perfect for celebratory occasions or special travel dining.
Both offer a precious opportunity to experience Japan’s “hospitality.” Whether you choose the quiet. Kaiseki cuisine (懐石料理) or the elegant Kaiseki cuisine (会席料理) – whichever you select, the spirit of Japan lives within it.
Modern Differences and Misconceptions
Overseas, the term “Kaiseki” is often introduced as “high-end Japanese cuisine” or “special course meals,” and the distinction between Kaiseki cuisine (懐石料理) and Kaiseki cuisine (会席料理) may not be widely known. This frequently leads to the misconception that “Kaiseki = luxurious Japanese food.”
The original Kaiseki represents the spirit of hospitality and harmony with nature. It’s important to appreciate not only the flavors and presentation, but also the Japanese sensibility expressed through the tableware, pacing, and quiet intervals between courses.
To dispel this misunderstanding, one should explain Kaiseki cuisine (懐石料理) as “a light meal before a tea ceremony” and Kaiseki cuisine (会席料理) as “a formal multi-course meal for celebrations,” conveying the underlying cultural differences. When savoring Kaiseki, pay attention to the ingredients, the presentation, and the expression of the season. Within that lies the richness of the Japanese spirit.
The Diverse World of Kaiseki and the Difficulty in Understanding It
Kaiseki cuisine (懐石料理) and Kaiseki cuisine (会席料理) are distinct culinary styles with different purposes and atmospheres, yet even among Japanese people, the distinction between them is often unclear.
Many people use the terms interchangeably, and even on menus at traditional restaurants and inns, the two terms are often used interchangeably.
Furthermore, the composition and seasoning of dishes differ between the Kansai and Kanto regions, and the philosophy and aesthetic of presentation also vary among schools like Kyoto cuisine, Edo cuisine, and shojin ryori (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine).
In other words, even when simply referred to as “Kaiseki,” its content varies greatly depending on region, tradition, and the chef’s philosophy.
As a result, it can be difficult for non-Japanese visitors to grasp the distinction between the two forms of Kaiseki.
In fact, many travelers refer to the course meals served at hot spring inns or high-end Japanese restaurants as “Kaiseki,” but whether these meals possess elements of Kaiseki (懐石) or follow the format of Kaiseki (会席) varies by establishment.
Yet, this very ambiguity is part of what makes Japanese cuisine so intriguing. Kaiseki is not a fixed mold but a “living culture” that evolves with the seasons, regions, and people involved. Both share a common spirit rooted in the “heart of hospitality” and “harmony with nature.”
When visiting Japan, experience the unique charm of Kaiseki cuisine—whether it’s the quiet, monastic setting of a temple lodging or the elegant atmosphere of a hot spring inn.
You’ll surely sense the profound depth of the Japanese spirit in each and every dish.
When sauce is about to drip, do you catch it by cupping your hand like a plate with the hand opposite your chopsticks? This is commonly called “Tezara (手皿: Te means hand and zara means plate).” It often appears on Japanese TV during meal scenes.
While it might seem elegant, it’s actually considered bad manners in Japanese dining etiquette, so it’s best to remember this. You should be especially careful during important occasions. The basic etiquette for Japanese cuisine is to hold the bowl or dish in your hand while eating, so the correct way is to use the sauce in a small side dish, not your hand.
However, there are times when small side dishes aren’t provided, like when eating out or at home. In those cases, the basic Japanese approach is to hold the bowl itself close to your mouth for dishes with sauce. Alternatively, you can use techniques like lightly cutting the sauce with the tips of your chopsticks before bringing it to your mouth to eat neatly without using your hands.
Why is using your hand as a plate considered bad manners? If sauce drips onto your hand and stains it, you’ll need to wipe your hands with an oshibori (wet towel), creating extra laundry. Oshibori are meant for wiping hands before eating. If they get stained with food sauce, they may require stain removal, causing trouble for the restaurant.
Furthermore, while it’s common, seeing someone use their palm as a plate and then bring the food to their mouth can feel somewhat unhygienic and vulgar, even if the person themselves doesn’t mind. Depending on the situation, it’s considered bad manners during a proper meal.
In Japan, holding bowls and small dishes is considered polite.
In Japanese dining culture, holding bowls and small dishes is considered polite. Proper etiquette dictates lifting bowls and soup bowls to your mouth, while flat or large dishes should not be lifted—specific manners exist for each type of vessel. Using a serving dish instead of tezara is rooted in these uniquely Japanese dining customs.
Of course, during casual meals at home or with friends, you might unconsciously use your hand as a plate. While it often isn’t a major issue in daily life, it’s especially important to refrain from doing so at formal occasions, kaiseki dinners, or when dining with seniors. Being mindful of etiquette according to the situation will make your dining manners appear more refined.
It’s a gesture that anyone can easily do, but it’s best to avoid it at formal occasions. It may even look as if you’re drawing attention to a spill, so using a side plate or small dish is always the better choice.
Sashimi is a standard menu item at whale specialty restaurants.
It has been six years since Japan withdrew from the International Whaling Commission (IWC) and resumed commercial whaling. Many consumers had hoped that whale meat would become cheaper and appear on dinner tables. This is because whale meat is a nutritious and versatile ingredient that can be used in a variety of dishes. However, the amount of whale meat available in circulation has decreased compared to the era of research whaling. What exactly were the Japanese government and the whaling industry trying to protect?
On the other hand, the three countries strongly pushing for a “whale hunting ban” in Japan are the United States, Australia, and New Zealand. Why is Japan not allowed to engage in commercial whaling when Iceland and Norway are permitted to do so? Such inconsistencies also exist.
In fact, very few Japanese people actually want to eat whale meat. According to a survey by Greenpeace, 95% of Japanese people do not particularly want to eat whale meat. It is said that the average annual consumption of whale meat per person in Japan is now 40 grams. It was quite a challenge to find images of whale sushi in our saved files.
In other words, whales may now be used as political and economic tools, transcending issues such as human food and the environment.
To put it bluntly, it may be the fault of a few members of parliament elected from constituencies with many whaling-related interests and hundreds of bureaucrats who do not want to lose their budgets.
This article is simply to show that whale sushi exists as part of Japanese food culture. Although rare today, whale occasionally appears as sushi neta (topping). So, what kinds of whale are actually used for sushi? Let’s take a closer look.
Minke whales in the northern hemisphere are about 8 meters long. Seen from above, their heads are pointed at the tip. There is a white patch on the upper center of the pectoral fins. The dorsal fin, about 30 cm high, is located toward the rear of the body and is often clearly sickle-shaped. The back is black, the sides are gray with a blurred pattern, and the lower jaw and abdomen are white.
It generally feeds on krill, small squid, and fish. It filters its food through bristle-like baleen plates, made of keratin. The Japanese name for the minke whale is higekujira, which means bearded whale.
Description: A relatively small baleen whale, measuring about 7–10 meters in length.
Use: The most commonly caught species in Japan’s commercial whaling, widely utilized for sushi toppings, sashimi, and bacon-style preparations.
Flavor: The red meat is tender with little odor, making it one of the more approachable types of whale meat.
Bryde’s Whale is a close relative of the Sei whale. It was named “Nitarikujira” (meaning “similar whale”) because it resembles the Sei whale. It grows to a maximum length of about 15 meters and is slightly smaller than the Sei whale.
Description: A medium-sized baleen whale, usually 12–15 meters long, larger than the minke whale.
Use: Its red meat is served as sushi or sashimi, while fatty cuts and tail meat are often cooked.
Flavor: The red meat has a richer taste with a pronounced umami and iron-like character.
3. Sei Whale (Balaenoptera borealis Lesson, 1828)
Sei whales are baleen whales belonging to the family Balaenopteridae. They migrate across the open ocean in schools of sardines, feeding on them, which is how they got their name.
Two subspecies are recognized: the northern hemisphere subspecies (B. b. borealis) and the southern hemisphere subspecies (B. b. schlegelii). They are distributed in the southern Indian Ocean, the North Atlantic and South Atlantic, and the North Pacific and South Pacific.
Its body is slender and spindle-shaped, with a sickle-shaped dorsal fin. The dorsal color is dark blue, the ventral color is light blue, and there are blurred patterns in between. The head is V-shaped, enabling it to swim at high speeds. The maximum body length is approximately 18 meters.
Description: A baleen whale that grows 12–18 meters long. In the past, it was more frequently caught, but today only limited numbers are harvested.
Use: The lean red meat is used for sushi or sashimi, while fattier portions are processed into bacon or fried dishes.
Flavor: The meat is tender and relatively mild, with a clean, elegant taste.
Sperm whales are distributed worldwide from the Arctic to the Antarctic, with the largest populations found in deep ocean waters. Male sperm whales grow to a length of 15 to 20 meters and weigh between 40 and 60 tons. Their body color is blackish gray, but it becomes whiter with age. In particular, the head tends to become whiter. The dorsal fin is mountain-shaped, with several ridges extending from the rear toward the tail fin. The surface of the body, except for the head, is rough and uneven.
Description: A toothed whale and one of the largest whale species, reaching 15–20 meters or more in length.
Use: Rarely used as sushi. Instead, its distinctive fatty tissue is made into “toothed whale bacon” or other processed foods.
Flavor: The fat has a unique aroma and a very rich, heavy taste.
Types of whale meat
Saezuri
Saezuri is very fatty, and the taste and texture differ between the root and tip of the tongue. It has a deep umami flavor and is used in simmered dishes and oden. It is one of the most popular delicacies of whale meat.
Onomi
The back section from the dorsal fin to the tail, with fat marbled like snowflakes (shimofuri). Considered the most delicious part of whale meat, it is also known as whale Otoro.
Unesu
The white, accordion-shaped part running vertically from the lower jaw to the navel is called Une, and the red inner part is called Sunoko. These two parts together form Unesu. It has a soft, gelatinous texture and is one of the most popular whale meat cuts, cherished for generations.
Bacon
Bacon is a processed food made by salting and smoking the part called Unesu.
Among Japan’s rich tapestry of traditional foods, few dishes capture the nation’s culinary spirit quite like Okonomiyaki. Sometimes described as a “Japanese savory pancake,” Okonomiyaki is a comfort food rooted in local culture, creativity, and postwar resilience. Its name, meaning “cooked as you like,” reflects the dish’s defining characteristic—versatility. Whether served Kansai-style with ingredients mixed into a fluffy batter, or Hiroshima-style in layered form with noodles and cabbage, Okonomiyaki has earned its place as a favorite across Japan and beyond.
This guide takes you on a journey through the origins of Okonomiyaki, its regional variations, what makes it so delicious, the diverse range of ingredients it welcomes, and how to prepare it yourself. Whether you’re a curious traveler, a passionate foodie, or someone seeking to recreate a taste of Japan at home, this deep dive into Okonomiyaki offers the perfect starting point.
1. The History and Evolution of Okonomiyaki
An Unrecorded Beginning
Surprisingly, the term “okonomiyaki” has only come into common use in recent years. In fact, there are still some dictionaries that do not include it. There are no clear historical records identifying its origin, the person who coined the term, or exactly when it was first made. However, it is certain that foods resembling today’s okonomiyaki existed in various regions of Japan from long ago.
Roots: “Funo-yaki” in the Edo Period
One commonly cited predecessor of okonomiyaki is funo-yaki, which dates back to the Edo period. It was even used by tea master Sen no Rikyū as a tea sweet. Made by mixing coarsely ground wheat flour with water and grilling it on a hot plate, its appearance was said to resemble modern crepes. During the mid-Edo period, funo-yaki (麩の焼) became commercialized under the name sukesō-yaki (助惣焼き), and it was enjoyed as a sweet filled with miso or sweet bean paste. It later evolved into kintsuba, a traditional Japanese confection.
However, it is important to note that funo-yaki was still a confection, and followed a different lineage from okonomiyaki, which is a savory, grilled main dish.
Regional Genealogies: Tokyo, Osaka, and Hiroshima
Tokyo Lineage: Moji-yaki → Monjayaki → Dondon-yaki → Okonomiyaki
In Tokyo, the roots can be traced back to moji-yaki (文字焼き) in the late Edo period. During the Meiji era, monjayaki (もんじゃ焼き) emerged—a dish where flour mixed with water and ingredients was grilled on a hot plate. It became popular among children, who often made it themselves at candy shops.
In the early Showa period, a more filling version called dondon-yaki (どんどん焼) appeared at food stalls. This version involved placing ingredients between layers of batter, grilling both sides, and wrapping it in newspaper. It resembled the layered style now seen in Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki. After WWII, dondon-yaki transitioned from a street snack to a dish eaten inside restaurants, and eventually came to be known as okonomiyaki.
Osaka Lineage: Issen Yoshoku → Okonomiyaki
In Osaka, a light snack called issen yoshoku (一銭洋食) gained popularity among the general public in the early Showa era. This simple “mixed-grill” style dish consisted of flour batter with cabbage and pickled ginger, grilled and topped with Worcestershire sauce. It was often sold at candy shops or stalls, especially to children.
After the war, in response to food shortages, ingredients like meat, eggs, and seafood were added to make the dish more substantial. The term okonomiyaki became established, referring to the customizable nature of the dish, and it gradually evolved into a home-cooked meal and restaurant specialty.
In Hiroshima, the origin was also issen yoshoku (一銭洋食). Before and after the war, vendors and candy shops began preparing thin pancakes made from flour batter, then layering on cabbage, bean sprouts, tempura crumbs, and more before grilling. Eventually, stir-fried noodles were added inside, and the dish came to be known as niku-tama-soba (meat, egg, and noodles).
From the 1950s onward, a standardized method emerged where an egg was added to complete the dish. This became the foundation of modern Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki (広島風お好み焼き). A defining feature is the layered grilling technique, where ingredients are stacked rather than mixed. This method requires skilled use of long metal spatulas and is often considered a culinary art form locally.
In Hiroshima, unlike other regions, it is more common to eat okonomiyaki at specialty restaurants rather than make it at home, and the dish has become a major tourist attraction.
Modernization and Nationwide Spread
After World War II, due to rice shortages, wheat flour supplied by the U.S. became a valuable substitute staple. Okonomiyaki, which made efficient use of flour, spread rapidly across Japan. Each region developed its own unique style, and the dish became a beloved home-cooked meal throughout the country.
In the 1970s and 80s, the widespread use of household electric griddles made okonomiyaki popular as a fun, family-style meal prepared and eaten together at the table. The distinctions between Kansai-style (mixed) and Hiroshima-style (layered) okonomiyaki also became widely recognized.
Contemporary Okonomiyaki: Diversity and Global Reach
Since the beginning of the 21st century, okonomiyaki has undergone further diversification. Gourmet versions featuring ingredients like beef tendon, cheese, and spicy cod roe (mentaiko) have emerged, as have regional variants like negiyaki and modern-yaki. Additionally, menus now increasingly cater to dietary restrictions, including vegan and gluten-free options, making the dish more accessible to health-conscious and religious diners alike.
Experiential okonomiyaki restaurants catering to foreign tourists have also grown in number, with the interactive, grill-it-yourself nature of the dish now considered a cultural attraction. Moreover, overseas establishments dedicated to OKONOMIYAKI are on the rise, further establishing it as a recognized part of Japanese cuisine worldwide.
2. Types of Okonomiyaki
There are two major regional styles of Okonomiyaki in Japan, each with its own unique approach and flavor profile: Kansai-style (also known as Osaka-style) and Hiroshima-style.
2-1 Kansai-style Okonomiyaki (関西風お好み焼)
The appearance of Kansai-style Okonomiyaki
Kansai-style Okonomiyaki is perhaps the most well-known throughout Japan. In this style, the ingredients—including flour, cabbage, eggs, pork, seafood, and other desired additions—are mixed together into a batter, much like preparing a savory pancake. This mixture is then cooked on a hot griddle until both sides are golden brown and the center is soft and flavorful. The result is a fluffy, cohesive dish that’s typically topped with Okonomi sauce, mayonnaise, dried bonito flakes, and aonori (seaweed flakes). Regional variations of Kansai-style include “modan-yaki,” which adds a layer of noodles, and “negi-yaki,” which substitutes green onions for cabbage and is often enjoyed with soy sauce instead of the usual sweet-savory sauce.
2-2 Hiroshima-style Okonomiyaki (広島風お好み焼き)
The appearance of hiroshima style okonomiyaki
Hiroshima-style Okonomiyaki, on the other hand, takes a more layered approach. Rather than mixing the ingredients together, each component is stacked in a specific order: a thin crepe-like batter is laid down first, followed by a generous helping of finely shredded cabbage, bean sprouts, pork slices, and stir-fried noodles, often yakisoba. A fried egg is typically added on top before the dish is flipped and finished on the griddle. The final product is heartier and taller than its Kansai counterpart, offering a more complex texture in each bite.
Beyond these two main styles, there are countless local variations that reflect regional tastes and available ingredients. For example, in Fuchu, ground pork is used instead of pork belly, resulting in a crispier texture. In Shobara, rice replaces noodles, and the dish is eaten with ponzu rather than sauce. In Mihara, chicken giblets are a featured ingredient, and in other areas, versions include local delicacies such as squid tempura, sake lees, or spicy noodles. Each variation is a testament to the dish’s adaptability and deep roots in local food culture.
2-3 Onomichiyaki (尾道焼き)
It is made by layering bonito flakes, cabbage, Chinese noodles, squid tempura, salt and pepper-fried gizzard, beef fat, red ginger, pork, and other ingredients, then baking them. The sauce is less sweet than Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki and tends to be less viscous.
2-4 Kakioko (カキオコ)
The appearance of Kakioko
It is made by mixing shredded cabbage with a creamy batter, spreading it on a hot griddle, and cooking it until it is golden brown. Fresh oysters are added and cooked slowly until they are done, resulting in a crispy exterior and a soft interior.
2-5 Mametendamayaki (豆天玉焼)
The appearance of Mametendamayaki
Starting with Tokushima ramen, followed by udon, and then okonomiyaki. In fact, Tokushima is a city that rivals Osaka in terms of flour-based cuisine. Okonomiyaki made by mixing sweetly simmered red kidney beans into the batter and then grilling it. This is a local specialty that has been enjoyed in Tokushima for centuries, known as “Mameten tama.” In addition to red kidney beans, the batter includes eggs and tempura made from Tokushima’s unique small shrimp. The chewy dough, the comforting sweetness of the red kidney beans, and the sweet-and-spicy okonomiyaki sauce create a delightful contrast of textures and flavors.
2-6 Monjayaki (月島もんじゃ)
The appearance of Monjayaki
Tukishima Monjayaki is often considered a type of okonomiyaki, but due to differences in how it is made and eaten, it can be considered a separate dish from okonomiyaki.The most notable feature is the large amount of water used to dissolve the flour, and the fact that seasonings such as sauce are mixed into the ingredients before cooking. In terms of eating style, it is characterized by cutting the dish into bite-sized pieces and pressing them onto a hot iron plate with a small spatula before cooking. This results in a crispy exterior and a fluffy interior, making it a popular dish enjoyed by many people.
3. What Makes Okonomiyaki Delicious
The appeal of Okonomiyaki lies in its unique harmony of textures, flavors, and the sensory experience it delivers, both in preparation and consumption. It’s not just food; it’s a cultural experience rooted in warmth, sharing, and creativity.
First and foremost, the texture contrast is one of Okonomiyaki’s defining features. The crispy, caramelized surface of the pancake—achieved by searing it on a hot teppan (iron griddle)—gives way to a soft, moist, and fluffy interior, often studded with tender cabbage, savory meat, and chewy bits like squid or noodles. This contrast of crisp and soft, light and rich, makes every bite exciting and satisfying.
Flavor-wise, Okonomiyaki is a celebration of umami, the deeply savory fifth taste so beloved in Japanese cuisine. The base ingredients like dashi-flavored batter, pork, and seafood already provide rich depth. When topped with Okonomi sauce—a sweet and tangy condiment similar to Worcestershire sauce but thicker and more complex—it creates a luscious glaze that balances sweetness, saltiness, and spice. Add to that a drizzle of creamy Japanese mayonnaise, the umami-packed flakes of katsuobushi (dried bonito), and the aromatic aonori seaweed powder, and you get layers of flavor that linger and evolve with each bite.
Another source of delight is the interactive nature of the dish. In many restaurants, especially in Osaka or Hiroshima, customers cook the dish themselves on built-in griddles at their table. This communal aspect of flipping, topping, and sharing Okonomiyaki turns the meal into a fun, collaborative event—perfect for family gatherings, friendly get-togethers, or casual dates. Watching bonito flakes dance from the heat or hearing the sizzle of the batter hitting the griddle is an experience that engages all five senses.
Moreover, the versatility of the dish means it can be endlessly adapted. Whether you prefer it meaty and hearty, light and vegetarian, spicy, cheesy, or even with unconventional toppings like pesto or kimchi, Okonomiyaki welcomes your preferences. It’s comfort food that still allows for personal expression.
Finally, there’s an element of nostalgia for many Japanese people. For those who grew up eating Okonomiyaki at home or on festival days, its flavors are deeply connected with family, childhood, and tradition. For travelers and food lovers from abroad, it offers a uniquely satisfying entry point into Japanese culinary culture—familiar in form, yet completely original in taste.
In short, what makes Okonomiyaki delicious isn’t just the ingredients, but the way they come together to create a multi-sensory, customizable, and deeply comforting experience.
4. Ingredients in Okonomiyaki
Key ingredients typically include:
Flour: Energy-rich and combined with eggs to make the batter.
Cabbage: Provides sweetness, crunch, and Vitamin C.
Pork: Supplies protein and essential amino acids.
Eggs: Nutrient-dense and protein-rich.
Tempura scraps (tenkasu): Add texture and umami.
Green onions, bean sprouts, fish flakes: Offer nutritional and flavor boosts.
Noodles (Hiroshima style only): Yakisoba or udon.
Red pickled ginger: Adds tang and supports digestion.
Okonomi sauce: Sweet-savory and thicker than Worcestershire sauce.
Mayonnaise: Adds creaminess; common in Kansai style.
5. How to Make Okonomiyaki
Kansai-Style (Mixed Style):
① Create a batter by mixing flour, dashi (stock), and eggs.
② Add shredded cabbage, meat or seafood, and other desired ingredients.
③ Pour onto a hot greased pan or griddle and shape it into a circle.
④ Grill both sides until golden and cooked through.
⑤ Top with sauce, mayonnaise, seaweed, and bonito flakes.
Hiroshima-Style (Layered Style):
① Spread a thin crepe-like batter on the griddle.
② Layer with shredded cabbage, bean sprouts, pork, and yakisoba.
③ Place another crepe and crack an egg on top.
④ Flip the entire stack to cook evenly.
⑤ Finish with sauce, aonori, and (optionally) mayonnaise.
Access: Subway Sen-Nichimae Line, Tsuruhashi Station, 1-minute walk
Kintetsu Osaka Line, Tsuruhashi Station, 1-minute walk
Phone Number: +81-6-6771-7938
Closed: Only on New Year’s Day
Business Hours:
【Mon-Fri】11:30 AM – 9:30 PM
【Sat, Sun, Holidays】11:00 AM – 10:00 PM
Budget: [Lunch] 1,000–2,000 yen [Dinner] 2,000–3,000 yen
Conclusion:
Okonomiyaki is more than just a meal—it’s a reflection of Japan’s regional diversity, cultural resilience, and culinary creativity. From its ancient roots and wartime reinvention to its evolution into a modern-day comfort food, Okonomiyaki continues to bring people together around the sizzling warmth of the teppan grill. Whether in the mixed Kansai style or the layered Hiroshima style, the dish offers an endless variety of ingredients, textures, and flavors, all tailored to personal preference—true to its name, “as you like it.” Its balance of crispness and softness, umami-rich toppings, and customizable nature make it a dish that resonates across generations and cultures. As you explore or prepare Okonomiyaki, you’re not just enjoying a delicious Japanese classic—you’re taking part in a shared tradition built on ingenuity, community, and joy.
Namero (なめろう) is a traditional local dish from the coastal areas of the Bōsō Peninsula in Chiba Prefecture, which faces the Pacific Ocean.
This region has long been blessed with an abundance of fresh seafood, especially horse mackerel (aji), available year-round.
Originating as a fisherman’s meal, namero was devised to be easily prepared on the unsteady decks of fishing boats, making the most of freshly caught fish.
Main Ingredients and Preparation
The basic recipe involves finely chopping horse mackerel together with miso, green onions, ginger, and sometimes shiso leaves,
then mincing everything together until it becomes sticky and paste-like.
While horse mackerel is commonly used, other blue-backed fish such as sardines, pacific saury, flying fish, yellowtail, and even squid or bonito
are also popular depending on the season and locality.
The use of miso instead of soy sauce has a practical origin—it’s less likely to spill on a rocking boat.
The miso also helps neutralize the strong aroma of oily fish, enhancing only their natural umami flavors.
It is said the name “namero” comes from the phrase “so delicious you’ll want to lick the plate clean.”
Another theory is that the sticky texture makes it hard to scrape off the plate, so you’d have to “lick” it off to finish it.
Misconceptions and Variations
Namero is sometimes confused with “tataki (タタキ),” another chopped fish dish, but they are quite different.
Tataki is usually lightly chopped and often uses soy sauce and vinegar, whereas namero is more thoroughly minced and flavored with miso,
creating a smoother and more cohesive texture.
Over time, regional variations and creative adaptations of namero have emerged.
One notable example is sanga-yaki (山家焼き), a grilled version of namero.
Legend has it that fishermen used to pack leftover namero into abalone shells and grill it in mountain huts while working inland—hence the name “sanga,” meaning “mountain house.”
Another beloved version is “mago-cha (まご茶)” (literally, ‘grandchild tea’), a rustic ochazuke-style dish where namero is placed on hot rice and doused with warm dashi broth.
The name has two possible origins: one being that the dish could be eaten quickly without hesitation (“mago-mago” meaning to fumble),
and the other being that it’s so tasty you’d want to share it with your grandchildren.
The addition of dashi slightly cooks the fish, offering a delightful change in texture and flavor.
Conclusion
Namero is a dish that truly captures the culinary heritage of coastal Chiba, transforming simple, fresh fish into a flavorful and nutritious meal.
With its wide adaptability, regional roots, and deep umami taste, it continues to charm both locals and visitors alike.
Today, it is served as a tsumami (appetizer) in izakayas and sushi restaurants.
Whether enjoyed raw, grilled, or as a comforting bowl of ochazuke, namero remains a timeless symbol of Japan’s rich seafood culture.
Takoyaki is a beloved street food from Osaka, made by grilling a savory wheat flour batter filled with diced octopus. In Japanese, “tako” means octopus and “yaki” refers to grilling or cooking over heat.
Let’s dive deeper into this iconic dish and discover what makes takoyaki so special.
The History of Takoyaki
The Birth of Tamagoyaki (Akashi-yaki)
In Akashi City, Hyogo Prefecture, takoyaki is known as “tamagoyaki” or “Akashi-yaki.” The most widely accepted theory regarding its origin links it to the invention of Akashi-dama (Akashi balls).
Akashi-dama were ornamental items invented by Edo-ya Iwakichi, a tortoiseshell craftsman, during the late Edo period. These decorative beads were used as accessories or as weights for hanging scrolls and were designed to resemble expensive coral.
The inspiration for Akashi-dama is said to have come from an incident in Iwakichi’s life. One day, after visiting a friend’s home, he was carrying an egg as a gift in the sleeve of his kimono. Unfortunately, the egg broke, and the egg white solidified into a hard white mass. At the time, adhesives were not readily available, so Iwakichi noticed the adhesive properties of the egg white and was inspired to use it in the creation of Akashi-dama.
The production of Akashi-dama involved wrapping small lead balls in rice flour, attaching thinly sliced cow’s hooves (dyed red) to them, and using egg white as an adhesive. The balls were then shaped into spheres using a brass mold with round indentations.
However, the process consistently left behind unused egg yolks. Since eggs were considered expensive and valuable at the time, these yolks could not be wasted. People began cooking and eating the leftover yolks.
Eventually, with the invention of celluloid, demand for Akashi-dama declined, and the craftsmen lost their source of income. To make a living, some of them began operating street stalls. Wheat starch, a cheap byproduct of gluten extraction, and octopus, which was inexpensive and abundant, became key ingredients. Using these, they created a new dish called tamagoyaki, which featured small pieces of octopus cooked in an omelet-like batter. The brass mold previously used to make Akashi-dama was repurposed for cooking the dish, and it began to be served at food stalls.
This is how the dish tamagoyaki—the predecessor of today’s takoyaki—was born.
The Birth of Takoyaki
The takoyaki we know today was created in 1935 by Endo Ryukichi, the founder of Aizuya in Osaka. Originally from Aizu in Fukushima Prefecture, Endo began selling a dish called radio-yaki from a street stall in Osaka in 1933.
Radio-yaki resembled modern takoyaki in that it was made by pouring batter into round molds on an iron griddle. However, instead of octopus, it used beef tendon and konjac. Also known as niku-yaki (“grilled meat”), the dish was named radio-yaki after the radio—an exciting and popular new technology at the time—and quickly gained popularity.
One day, a customer who tried radio-yaki mentioned a dish in Akashi that used octopus and eggs, also referred to as takoyaki. Inspired by this, Endo substituted the beef tendon and konjac with octopus. At the time, octopus heads were inexpensive and readily available, so he used them in the new version of the dish. It proved to be a big hit and soon became known as takoyaki.
This marked the birth of the original takoyaki.
Note: From 1974 to 2012, the annual Madako (octopus) catch in Akashi remained between 2,000 and 3,000 tons. However, poor catches have continued in recent years, with the total dropping to just 231 tons in 2024. In addition, the prices of key takoyaki ingredients have skyrocketed, making it no longer the affordable street snack that children could easily buy with their allowance.
The Evolution of Takoyaki
When people hear the word takoyaki, many likely picture round balls topped with a generous amount of sauce, green onions, and bonito flakes. However, when takoyaki first originated in Osaka, it was traditionally eaten without any toppings. This was because the batter itself was already well seasoned. Each shop had its own unique recipe, blending flour with dashi, soy sauce, sake, salt, and other ingredients—creating a flavorful dish even without additional toppings.
Today, serving takoyaki with sauce has become the standard, and it’s not uncommon to find variations topped with ponzu or mayonnaise. Still, in Osaka—the birthplace of takoyaki—some shops remain faithful to the original style, offering takoyaki without any toppings. Over time, through experimentation and innovation, each shop has developed its own flavor and approach, allowing takoyaki to continue evolving.
Interestingly, the sauce now considered essential to takoyaki also has its own unique history. Sauce was introduced to Japan from England along with Western cuisine at the end of the Edo period. Initially, it resembled a thin Worcestershire-style sauce, but in the latter half of the Meiji era, domestic production began, and the recipe was adjusted to suit Japanese tastes. Thicker sauces were eventually created to complement a range of dishes, and in the late 1940s, the idea of “takoyaki with sauce” was born in Osaka.
Finally, in 1963, a sauce specifically formulated for takoyaki was developed and released, spreading nationwide alongside the rise of street food culture. Today, while the appearance of takoyaki has remained largely unchanged, its flavor and how it’s enjoyed have undoubtedly continued to evolve.
What Makes Takoyaki So Delicious?
When you take a bite of freshly made takoyaki, you’re met with a crispy, fragrant exterior, a melt-in-your-mouth soft center, and the satisfying chew of octopus. This unique combination of textures is what makes takoyaki so irresistible.
Although it may look simple, takoyaki is actually a carefully crafted dish that requires skill and attention to detail.
Achieving that crisp outer layer depends on properly shaping the balls and thoroughly cooking them on a hot griddle to evaporate excess moisture. The creamy interior is all about the batter’s water content—more moisture leads to a softer, silkier texture. Adding dashi broth or milk not only reduces the floury taste but also enhances the flavor. In particular, a small amount of milk makes the texture even smoother and richer.
At home, a common ratio is 1 part flour to 3 parts water, but professional takoyaki shops often use 4 parts water or more to create an even creamier center. However, using more water requires greater skill to cook the takoyaki properly without it falling apart.
The oil used in cooking also plays a major role in the final taste. Some shops use lard for added richness, while others blend different oils for depth of flavor. In the Kansai region—especially in Osaka and Kobe, where takoyaki originated—high-quality rapeseed oil has been produced for generations. In fact, many of the earliest takoyaki shops used rapeseed oil, and its aroma continues to enhance the flavor of takoyaki today.
Taste, texture, and aroma all work together to make takoyaki far more than just a flour-based snack—it’s a rich and beloved part of Japanese food culture.
The Main and Supporting Ingredients of Takoyaki
The undisputed star of takoyaki is, of course, octopus. Its plump, pleasantly chewy texture is something everyone eagerly anticipates. While octopus is sometimes avoided in Western countries—where it’s even nicknamed “devil fish”—it has long been treasured as a seafood delicacy across the Pacific, from Japan to Micronesia.
But not just any octopus will do. That signature texture and satisfying “crunch” come exclusively from the legs of madako (octopus). The body, or legs of other species, simply can’t replicate the exquisite mouthfeel that madako offers.
An equally important yet often overlooked element is the tako-jiru (octopus broth). This flavorful liquid seeps out of the octopus during cooking and infuses the batter with deep umami. However, if the broth spills out too early, it can cause burning—a make-or-break moment that tests the skill of the cook. Timing is everything: the batter must be flipped at just the right moment, while it’s still partially uncooked, to lock in the flavor. Using raw octopus yields even more takojiru, but this also increases the difficulty, so it’s worth trying once you’ve gained some experience.
Now, let’s not forget the supporting cast—those behind-the-scenes ingredients that play a crucial role in the magic of takoyaki.
First up is tenkasu, the crispy bits of batter left over from frying tempura (also called agedama in the Kanto region). Rich in oil, tenkasu enhances the flavor and adds a touch of richness, giving takoyaki its distinct savory depth. Though often overlooked, it’s an indispensable backstage player.
Next is beni shoga (red pickled ginger). Its sharp tang and vivid red hue add both a punch of flavor and visual appeal. The spiciness of the ginger cuts through the mildness of the octopus and batter, bringing balance to the overall taste.
Chopped green onions also make a valuable contribution, both in aroma and texture. Some vendors mix them into the batter, while others lavishly scatter them on top as a finishing touch. Their fresh, grassy scent elevates the flavor profile of the dish.
Depending on the region or shop, you might also find finely chopped cabbage in the mix. Its crisp texture and subtle sweetness add to the filling. More recently, modern variations like cheese and corn have joined the ingredient lineup, expanding the creative possibilities of takoyaki.
In this way, the deliciousness of takoyaki is supported by the perfect balance of various ingredients centered around the robust presence of octopus. It is not complete with just the main ingredient alone, which is why it has such a deep and never-ending flavor.
The ｍaintenance of the takoyaki pan determines the taste
In Osaka, takoyaki pans with round indentations are so common that it’s often said, “there’s one in every household.” These pans are essential—without them, takoyaki simply can’t be made. To achieve delicious takoyaki, both the type of pan and how it’s maintained are crucial factors.
Traditional takoyaki pans are typically made from metals like iron or copper. Iron pans offer consistent heat conduction and cook evenly, making them a popular choice. Copper pans conduct heat even more efficiently and are often used by professionals, but they require more meticulous care. Recently, lightweight aluminum pans have gained popularity for home use, but they generally fall short compared to iron and copper when it comes to oil absorption and heat retention.
Proper post-use maintenance plays a vital role in preserving the pan’s performance and the flavor of your takoyaki. After cooking, wipe the surface with a cloth or paper towel—avoid using soap or water. Detergents can strip away the seasoned oil layer, resulting in uneven cooking and increased risk of rust. Copper pans are particularly sensitive to moisture, and even a trace of water can lead to oxidation, so handle them with extra care.
When storing your pan, ensure it is completely dry. Wrap it in newspaper or kitchen paper, and place it in an airtight bag to minimize air exposure. Even if you’re not using the pan for an extended period, occasionally re-seasoning it by heating and applying oil can help maintain its condition.
In recent years, electric takoyaki makers designed for home use have become widely available. These models are safe, easy to use, and allow for precise temperature control. However, compared to traditional metal pans, they heat more slowly and require some skill to achieve the perfect crispy exterior. Teflon-coated versions are easier to clean, but traditional metal pans develop a richer flavor over time through continued use.
For those seeking an authentic takoyaki experience, a professional-grade gas-powered pan is worth considering. Its high heat capacity enables the ideal contrast between a crispy outer layer and a creamy center.
In short, the quality of your takoyaki greatly depends on your tools—and how well you take care of them. With a little dedication to proper maintenance, you can consistently create perfect, flavorful takoyaki at home.
Choosing the Right Container for Takoyaki
When serving takoyaki—especially for takeout—using a purpose-made container is essential. The right vessel not only enhances presentation but also plays a key role in preserving the flavor and texture of the takoyaki during transport.
One traditional container still seen at yatai (street stalls) is the hegi—a thin wooden board bent into a small boat shape. Also known as kibune (ki meaning “wood,” and fune meaning “boat”), these wooden trays gently absorb rising steam from the freshly cooked takoyaki. This helps prevent sogginess and preserves the signature crisp exterior. At stalls, servings are often charmingly referred to as hitofune (one boat), futafune (two boats), and so on.
In recent years, molded pulp or paper-based boat-shaped containers have gained popularity, especially at festivals and street food events. These containers are lightweight, easy to handle, compostable, and eco-friendly—making them a practical choice for vendors and a sustainable one for consumers.
Plastic containers, while highly airtight and effective at retaining heat, have drawbacks. They trap steam, which can cause the takoyaki to become soggy over time. Additionally, growing environmental concerns and rising material costs have encouraged a shift away from plastic toward recyclable and biodegradable alternatives.
No takoyaki experience is complete without the essential pick. Toothpicks are believed to have been introduced from China during the Nara period, originally used for dental hygiene. Over time, they have evolved into a standard utensil for eating takoyaki. Many shops now offer bamboo or wooden picks designed for easier handling, while others may still use clear plastic ones for a clean, modern look—though these are gradually being replaced for environmental reasons.
In short, the container—and even the humble pick—can directly affect how takoyaki is enjoyed. Choosing breathable, sustainable materials helps ensure each bite remains as crispy and flavorful as when it first comes off the griddle.
How to Make Takoyaki
1. Make the Batter
In a bowl, combine dashi stock and eggs, and whisk well. Gradually add flour, mixing thoroughly to avoid lumps. Season with salt, soy sauce, or other seasonings to taste. For a milder, richer flavor, you can also add a little chicken stock or milk to the batter.
2. Prepare the Ingredients
Cut the octopus into 1 cm cubes. You can use slightly larger pieces, but avoid making them too big as they may be difficult to cook evenly. To add variety to the flavor, try adding these ingredients (all cut into small pieces):
Konjac
Cheese
Mochi
Sausage, etc.
3. Prepare the Tools
Preheat a takoyaki pan (with rounded molds) over high heat. Coat the molds with vegetable oil and heat until you see a bit of smoke. Mixing in a small amount of sesame oil or lard will enhance the flavor and make the takoyaki even tastier.
4. Cook
Once the pan is fully heated, pour the batter into the molds in one go, letting it slightly overflow. Immediately add the octopus pieces and sprinkle tempura flakes on top. You can also add any of the following to your liking:
Shiba shrimp
Pickled red ginger
Chopped green onions
Tip: Avoid overfilling with ingredients, as this can prevent even cooking.
When the edges begin to set, gently push any overflowed batter back into the molds and flip the takoyaki quickly. Continue turning them several times until they become round and golden.
5. Enjoy!
They’re ready when the outside is crispy and golden brown. You can enjoy them with store-bought takoyaki sauce, or try making your own with a mix of:
Okonomiyaki sauce
A splash of milk, soy sauce, or sake
They’re also delicious without any sauce at all.
Topping ideas:
Aonori (green seaweed)
Katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes)
Mayonnaise
Ponzu
Dashi soy sauce
Shichimi togarashi (Japanese seven-spice blend)
Chopped green onions
You can also enjoy them Akashi-yaki style, by dipping them in hot dashi broth or grated yam.
Final Thoughts
There’s no single “correct” way to make takoyaki. Feel free to experiment with different ingredients and cooking styles to discover your own perfect recipe!
Recommended takoyaki restaurant
Takoyaki Dōraku Wanaka Sennichimae Main Store(たこ焼道楽わなか 千日前本店)
This historic shop, established in the 1960s in Osaka’s Sennichimae district, offers the classic Osaka-style takoyaki with a crispy exterior and a soft, creamy interior. The flavor comes in the standard “special sauce,” as well as options like “dashi soy sauce” and “ponzu.” Among these, the “kama-tsuki shio” (salt-flavored) is particularly popular, featuring the umami of dashi infused into the batter.
On weekends and during tourist seasons, the shop is often crowded with locals and tourists, showcasing its popularity. Takeout is available, and there is also an eat-in space where you can enjoy freshly made takoyaki. Additionally, foreign language menus in English, Chinese, and Korean are provided, making it convenient for international travelers.
As a representative of Osaka’s gourmet scene, this renowned shop is widely loved by both locals and tourists.
【Address:】11-19 Namba Sennichimae, Chuo-ku, Osaka
【Hours:】10:30 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.
Dotonbori Akaoni Main Store (道頓堀 赤鬼 本店)
This takoyaki restaurant has been listed in the Michelin Guide for three consecutive years and is renowned for its delicious taste. It has been featured not only in domestic media but also in overseas media, proving its popularity and quality.Its standout feature is the extensive menu. Even the standard sauce takoyaki offers a choice between sweet and spicy sauce, and there are also options like soy sauce, rock salt, scallion ponzu, and summer-only specials like ice-topped takoyaki and shrimp mayo-filled takoyaki. Additionally, the “chapuchapu” dish, where takoyaki is served in soup, is also popular.
On holidays and during tourist season, there is often a line in front of the store. It is a popular restaurant not only with locals but also with tourists from overseas. English, Chinese, and Korean menus are also available, so even first-time visitors and guests from overseas can order with confidence.
【Address】1-2-3 Namba, Chuo-ku, Osaka
【Hours】11:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m.
Hanadako (はなだこ)
Located just a 1-minute walk from JR Osaka Station, this takoyaki shop is nestled within the Shin-Umeda Food Street. It’s a bustling spot where both locals and tourists gather in long lines at any time of day. The popular menu items include the classic “takoyaki” and the “negimayo,” which features a mountain of scallions piled high over the takoyaki. Both offer a fluffy texture that’s sure to please. The shop also caters to international visitors with foreign language menus available in English, Chinese, and Korean.
【Address】Osaka Prefecture, Osaka City, Kita Ward, Kakuda-cho 9-16, Osaka Shin-Umeda Food Street 1st Floor
【Hours】10:00 AM to 11:00 PM
Cod has long been an important source of nutrition for mankind. The European culture of cod has a particularly long history, and it is no exaggeration to say that Atlantic Cod has supported European civilization for more than 1,000 years. Salted and dried cod have been used as a high-quality preserved food in every country since ancient times and has supported human history.
Bacalao is dried, salted cod, and is a national dish of Spain, Portugal, and other countries.
One reason for the development of dried fish is that there were good fishing grounds in Iceland, the Arctic Ocean, and the continental shelf of North America, far from the major consumption areas of Europe. Another reason is that cod is difficult to distribute in its raw form, so it is difficult to control freshness. Because it loses its freshness so quickly, cod has historically been distributed either as a very salty salted product or as dried fish that has been dried like sticks. Humans have used the wisdom of preservation and endured hunger for various foods. Cod is just one example of the history of dry food.
First, we would like to begin by identifying what we mean by dry food or dried fish.
Dried foods are not simply raw seafood, vegetables, wild vegetables, or other foods that have had the water removed from them, but are better described as foods that have been exposed to the sun’s energy, which changes the ingredients in the food and adds further value to it. he effects of the sun’s energy are significant, generating the power to sterilize, bleach, preserve, and amplify umami, aroma, vitamins, and many other nutrients.
Food deteriorates and spoils over time. This is due to the action of enzymes and microorganisms contained in the food, oxidation, and other factors. Enzymes and microorganisms generally become less active when the moisture content of the food is below 40%, and almost dormant at 15% or less. Furthermore, when the moisture content falls below 10%, most changes induced by enzymes and microorganisms cease. In other words, by drying food to remove moisture, enzymes, and microorganisms stop working, and food deterioration and spoilage are less likely to occur, thus increasing shelf life. So, dried food is the best preservative food that has a shelf life while keeping the umami of the food locked in.
In Japan, dried food is used as a generic term for foods that have been dried. On the other hand, dried fish refers to dried seafood. This is not a mistake, as dried food also includes dried fish and shellfish, but the line between dried food and dried fish is difficult to draw.
Some classify dried food as that which has been completely drained of water and can be stored at room temperature and dried seafood as that which has only been moderately drained of water to bring out the flavor of the ingredients and needs to be kept refrigerated.
There is also a classification of dried food as that in which the salt content in the ingredients is low, and dried fish as that in which the salt content in the ingredients is high.
Dried foods include foods other than seafood, such as dried meat, dried vegetables, and dried fruits, but this section will mainly discuss dried foods only.
Dried fish was originally processed to preserve large numbers of fish caught at one time when freezing technology had not yet been developed. Dried fish has a long history in Japan, and some books indicate that there were several dried fish stores in Kyoto during the Heian period (794-1185). The history of dried fish is said to be more than 10,000 years old.
Now, let us try to classify dried fish according to the different ways of drying.
Shioboshi (塩干し)
The appearance of Maruboshi
Shioboshi is a fish soaked in salt water and then dried in the sun or by machine. There are two types of Shioboshi: Maruboshi, which is dried as it is, and Hirakiboshi, which is dried after removing the entrails.
Suboshi (素干し)
Suboshi is a dried fish or shellfish that has been dried without seasoning.
Niboshi (煮干し)
Niboshi is a dried fish made by boiling the raw fish in salted water and then drying it. Typical examples are anchovies and other sardines, which are used for cooking broth or made into chirimenjako (dried sardines). It is low in fat and has few peculiarities, so it can be used to make dashi that has an elegant and sweet taste.
Yakiboshi (焼き干し)
Yakiboshi is a dried fish that has had its entrails removed, roasted over a charcoal fire, and dried. Unlike Niboshi, which are dried after boiling, yakiboshi does not lose any of its flavor and is said to produce a pure and rich broth. The most famous type of Yakiboshi is Ago (Flying fish yakiboshi).
Chomiboshi (調味干し)
The appearance of Milinboshi
Chomiboshi is a dried fish that is seasoned by soaking the raw fish in a seasoning solution during the manufacturing process. Mirinboshi is the most common type of Chomiboshi, which is soaked in a mixture of soy sauce, sugar, mirin, and other seasonings before being dried.
Bunkaboshi (文化干し)
Bunkaboshi is a dried fish made by wrapping the raw fish in cellophane, which allows humidity to pass through, and drying it with moisture absorbent material. The name Bunkaboshi was given to this new drying method as an alternative to sun-drying.
Haiboshi (灰干し)
Haiboshi is made by covering the raw fish with a special film that allows humidity to pass through and then covering it with volcanic ash to absorb moisture. Haiboshi does not expose the fish to air in the volcanic ash, and takes a long time to remove water and excess fat, so the fish is not oxidized, resulting in dried fish with little odor.
Kooriboshi (凍干し)
Kooriboshi is a dried fish made by repeatedly freezing and thawing the raw seafood to remove its water content. This process was born in northern Japan, where winters are severely cold.
Kunsei (燻製)
Kunsei is a dried fish made by heating finely ground wood and using heat and smoke to seafood. The result is a dried fish with a unique flavor. Smoked salmon is famous worldwide.
Fushi (節)
Fushi is a fish that is smoked with heat and smoke from burning wood and dried until hard. It is used mainly to make soup stock for cooking, such as dried bonito flakes.
Types of fish used for dried fish
The following fish are raw materials for dried fish.
If the purpose is only to preserve fish, it is better to remove a lot of water. The fish is not only preserved, but the water content is adjusted for texture and flavor, and in addition, proteolytic enzymes in the fish tissue work to produce new free amino acids, increasing the taste. This, we feel, is the very preparation of sushi toppings. The preparation of Edomae sushi has evolved from a sort of the certain struggle of preserving fish as much as possible. We can’t help but think that the know-how of making dried fish is utilized in this process.
Anisakis is usually found on the surface of internal organs, but can also appear on the surface of the fish.
Anisakis is a parasite of fish and shellfish, including mackerel, horse mackerel, sardines, bonito, squid, cod, saury, flatfish, and salmon. Three groups of parasites, Anisakis simplex, Anisakis physeteris, and Pseudoterranova decipiens, are considered to cause Anisakis disease in Japan. Larvae are elongate, 2~3 cm long and 0.5~1 mm wide, and most are translucent white. The species of Anisakis parasitizing fish and shellfish vary depending on the species of fish, the sea area, and the habitat depth.
Anisakis spawns as adults in the stomachs of whales and other marine mammals. When the eggs are excreted with feces, they hatch in seawater, and the larvae are eaten by krill, where they remain as larvae in the krill-eating seafood. Food poisoning occurs when people eat fish and shellfish parasitized by these larvae.
Three to four hours after infection, symptoms such as upper abdominal pain, nausea, and vomiting appear. These symptoms are now known to be an allergic reaction to the stomach wall and the Anisakis, rather than direct pain caused by the Anisakis piercing the stomach wall.
Mackerel is the most common type of Anisakis disease case reported in sashimi and sushi. In Tokyo, more than half of these cases are caused by Shimesaba (vinegared mackerel). When serving ingredients such as sashimi, chefs need to look carefully with their eyes to see if Anisakis is present and to remove the internal organs. Anisakis may not be visible, so care should be taken. The food items should not be served as sashimi if they are visible.
Anisakis larvae are parasites primarily on the surface of internal organs. They do not move from the internal organs if the fish is cold and near iced, but they may move into the flesh as the fish loses freshness or over time. For this reason, when purchasing (catching) and bringing home, it is important to keep the fish cold with ice or refrigerant to prevent loss of freshness. However, it is important to note that some species of fish, such as Chum salmon (Sake), have Anisakis lurking in their entire body. Sushi chefs know this and do not use it in Nigiri sushi. In addition, it has been hoped that soy sauce, wasabi, and vinegar may be effective in preventing Anisakis disease. However, the insect bodies are not killed by the amount and concentration used in cooking and the time of treatment.
How to Prevent Anisakis
In 1968, the Netherlands mandated by law that herring to be eaten raw in vinegar be frozen at -20 ºC or lower for at least 24 hours before cooking, drastically reducing the number of anisakiasis cases. The U.S. FDA recommends that fish for raw consumption be frozen at -35 °C for 15 hours or at -20 °C for 7 days, while EU health management standards require visual inspection of marine fish for parasites. The EU standard requires visual inspection of marine fish for parasites and directs freezing treatment (at -20 °C or below for at least 24 hours) for marine fish intended for raw consumption. In Japan, heat treatment at 70 °C or higher or 60 °C or higher (for about 1 minute) and freezing at -20 °C or lower for 24 hours or longer are supposed to kill the parasites.
New Technology for Killing Anisakis
Japan Seafoods, a seafood processing company, and Kumamoto University’s Institute for Industrial Nanomaterials Research have jointly developed a method and device to kill Anisakis by using an instantaneous electric power like lightning to kill them in fish meat. The establishment of a new method of killing Anisakis without heating has brought the risk of food poisoning from Anisakis on non-frozen raw sashimi closer to zero. However, challenges remain, such as downsizing the equipment and reducing costs.
Edomae sushi (Nigiri sushi) in the Edo period was about twice the size of today’s sushi.
We recently read a sushi article in one of the Food media and were amazed that there are still media outlets out there that are so misinformed. If taken dispassionately, it may be a reprinted article or an article created by a generated AI. Also, food writers who use arguments like “I live in Japan” or “I know sushi well because I have been to over 500 sushi restaurants” are not to be trusted in their articles.
Nigiri sushi originated about 200 years ago, but in fact, it can be said that no book comprehensively describes it. The only information available is the diaries of the samurai and aristocrats of the time, which are only a few lines of text. As proof of this, it is not even certain who started making nigiri sushi, and there are many theories. In other words, there is a possibility that it has been rewritten to suit their convenience.
Depending on whether sushi is classified in terms of its history or terms of its production method, the types of sushi will naturally differ. If we discuss in a confused state, we will not reach a single conclusion. Vinegar was produced by the natural fermentation of fish and grains for preservation purposes. This is the form of sushi when it originated. It must have originated in China, Southeast Asia, or somewhere in between. In Nigiri sushi, however, vinegar made from sake lees or other ingredients is added to cooked rice. Even if we focus the argument only on vinegar, there is no way to say that they are both the same food.
This article was rudimentary in that there are several types of sushi, including Nigiri sushi, Maki, Roll sushi, Inari sushi, Chirashi sushi, and Sashimi. As you already know, Sashimi is not a type of sushi. It is a typical Japanese dish. And this misunderstanding of Sashimi leads to a wrong understanding of Nigiri sushi. No one does not know what Nigiri sushi is. However, many people think that Nigiri sushi is Sashimi on top of vinegared rice (sushi rice). This is also a big mistake. Sushi topping can be made of vegetables or seafood, but without vinegared rice, it is not Nigiri sushi. We would like to remind you of this.
Moving on to our main topic, you may not have heard of Edomae sushi. It refers to Nigiri sushi, which originated in the Edo period (1603-1867), and although there have been some changes in the sushi ingredients, everything else has remained the same as when it originated. Together with maki sushi, which originated about 50 years later, it is now called Edomae sushi. The reason for the name “Edomae” is explained below.
So, except for the maki sushi story, Edomae sushi means Nigiri sushi. At the time when Edomae sushi originated, there was no such thing as a refrigerator, so it was not possible to refrigerate sushi toppings. It was natural to treat seafood for preservation. For example, we boiled Kuruma prawn (Kuruma ebi) and simmered Japanese conger (Anago).
Sashimi is a small piece of seafood, raw, with only the skin and bones removed. On the other hand, in Edomae sushi, the Sushi ingredients are treated in some way. We think the simplest treatment is to sprinkle salt on the seafood. This is one of the basic cooking methods practiced around the world. However, when making Sashimi, basic salt is not used. For more information on other processing methods, please check below.
Horse mackerel (Aji) and Mackerel (Saba), which lose their freshness rapidly, were preserved by soaking in vinegar until 50 years ago. Recently, however, they are served as close to fresh as possible. Even today, some Aji and Saba are still vinegared, but they are rare.
After the Great Kanto Earthquake, the Edomae sushi chefs lost their workplaces and went to the countryside to look for work. However, the local people did not understand the need to go to the trouble of preparing fresh seafood, and they gradually began to use raw sushi topping. Nowadays, the use of raw sushi topping is the norm in rural areas of Japan. Even the concept of “Edomae sushi” does not exist in the regions.
Conveyor-belt sushi, now a mainstream segment of the sushi industry, uses raw sushi toppings to save time and effort in preparing them, in other words, to cut costs. Or perhaps it is because farmed fish is not suitable for aging. It may be because Japan has a culture that values freshness, and fish is unusually valued for its freshness compared to meat and vegetables. Salmon, the standard sushi topping in other countries, is also used raw. It is not sprinkled with salt to reduce excess water and odor components.
Strictly speaking, these are not Edomae sushi (Nigiri sushi). They are called Sashimi vinegared rice. If we may add one more thing, there has been a shift from processing for preservation to processing to bring out the umami.
Isami zushi, which has a long history, is as inexpensive and delicious as Conveyor belt sushi, and has the atmosphere of a traditional sushi bar.
A quick cup of coffee and off to work I go. In this case, of course, you are standing rather than sitting on a chair. But when it comes to eating, sitting on a chair is the universal practice, isn’t it? In Japan, however, many restaurants allow customers to eat standing up, such as standing buckwheat noodles.
Why do these restaurants exist?
Certainly, a businessman who does not want to waste time will not allocate elegant time for a meal. In a sense, a businessman who wastes his time on such a wasteful activity may be a dropout. That said, how about eating a meal while standing up? According to Japanese eating etiquette, it is against manners to eat while standing. In many countries, it would be called ill-mannered.
And it is impossible to eat sushi, which has a strong image as a representative of high-class Japanese cuisine, standing up is not allowed. Nigiri sushi, however, was originally a yatai food (street food) for the impatient Edo people and could be called the fast food of the time. That and the fact that the customers were allowed to eat standing up and the seller sat down to make sushi, which is impossible today, but it was the norm back then.
Here, we would like to introduce Standing sushi bars in Tokyo that we would like foreigners to visit by imagining what yatai (street food) sushi was like about 200 years ago.
Standing sushi bars have been popping up in Tokyo since around 2021. It is impossible to rapidly increase the number of customers in a high-end sushi bar where the bill is several hundred dollars. Even if they opened a second sushi bar and entrusted the management to their apprentice, they would need to charge a certain amount of money to make it viable.
Therefore, the number of “standing sushi bars” should have increased to encourage people to come to the restaurant more casually. To be honest, while the business model was still in the exploratory stage, standing sushi bar Akira was selected as a Michelin Bib Gourmand in 2022. standing sushi bar is now in the limelight.
There are currently about 50 standing sushi bars in Tokyo, and among them, I would like to introduce Isami zushi, which has a long history, is as inexpensive and delicious as Conveyor belt sushi, and has the atmosphere of a traditional sushi bar.
Turn left from the east exit of Oimachi Station, turn left at the first corner, and enter the Higashikoji street that you will see immediately. Isami zushi will be on your left.
This area is a maze of narrow alleys and side streets with 60 to 70 bars and eateries that are reminiscent of the Showa period. Although not yet well known to foreigners, it is sure to attract attention as a town where one can feel the lifestyle of the people who live there.
Isami zushi has been in business for 67 years. The current owner, Masaaki Fujioka, is the third generation and has been running the restaurant for 25 years. The restaurant has an L-shaped counter and can accommodate seven people. At best, seven Japanese women can just barely fit inside. And if I may be rude, it feels even smaller than it is because of the lack of organization and placement of things.
The price per piece of nigiri sushi is 30 yen (Geso), 40 yen (Tamagoyaki), 60 yen (Ika), 80 yen (Tobiko), 100 yen (Aji, Aoyagi, Ebi, Saba, Akami, Hotate, Iwashi). , 120 yen (Tako, Kanpachi, Kohada, Hamachi), 140 yen (Torigai, Anago, Toro, Shako), 160 yen (Makimono), and up to 200 yen (Uni, Ikura).
You can order from two pieces. There are always about 20 different kinds of neta (toppings) available. Popular toppings are sometimes sold out, so it is best to get there early. Sushi rice is not too sweet and is suitable for eating sushi with a drink. Of course, sashimi is also available, so you can drink sake as well. The rice is a blend of Koshihikari and Sasanishiki, which gives the rice a delicious flavor and a flaky texture when you put it in your mouth.
How to Order
A sushi chef does not speak foreign languages. There is no English menu, so you must choose from a wooden tag with the name of the toppings written on it, or from a whiteboard with today’s recommendation. Or you can point to the fish in the glass case. Gari is not available at the counter like at conveyor-belt sushi restaurants, so please ask the sushi chef for “Gari-Kudasai” (Kudasai is a Japanese word meaning “please” in English). And regulars order three different sushi toppings at once. In any case, the hurdle may be quite high for foreigners. Even if your sushi order does not go as expected, it is inexpensive, there are no rip-offs, and it will be a memorable experience.
Why is it dramatically cheaper?
First, the restaurant is operated by a single sushi chef, which reduces labor costs. Second, he selects fish from the Toyosu and Ota markets, and fish arrives directly from Odawara, Nagasaki, and other areas. And because he strives to sell out the sushi topping every day. Also, he has reduced the size of his shari and sushi topping compared to previous years. These efforts are nearing their limits, so there may be a price increase soon.
How do I make a reservation?
Reservations are not available, so you will have to line up before the restaurant opens. The restaurant will be full as soon as it opens. Even if you say you will wait, you do not know what time it will be. Please be patient.
Payment Method
Credit cards are not accepted. Cash only. No table charges.
Actual Eating Report
We tried it and here is our report.
Well, we ate standing up, so we thought we could only hold out for about 30 minutes, but we didn’t mind quite a bit. Before our visit, we wanted to eat about 20 pieces as a goal. Japanese people consider someone’s feelings or wishes. In other words, if you are reporting on a sushi restaurant, you should write an article that will please the owner. I will say that this report does not have that element at all.
As soon as you enter the restaurant, a geta (sushi wooden tray) is placed in front of you and you are like, “Now what shall we nigiri? We think every sushi restaurant was like this 30 years ago. First, we ordered a beer. What a surprise, a can of beer was served. In Japanese restaurants, canned beer is rarely served. This is because cans can be drunk at home, and since the price is known, customers do not have a good feeling about it.
To start the conversation, we ask about the history of the restaurant. Then we confirm that it is okay to take pictures and will explore the most important sushi chef’s personality.
Black scraper (Umazurahagi) has a blurry appearance and does not look tasty, but once peeled, it reveals a clear white flesh similar to that of pufferfish.
Today’s shiromi was Hokke, Black scraper (Umazurahagi), and Marbled rockfish (Kasago). All of these sushi toppings are quite rare as shiromi. They are not served at high-end restaurants by mistake. Isami zushi uses natural fish from domestic fisheries for almost all of its topping. Because they do not use any farm-raised fish, the selection of toppings changes daily, but diners can enjoy rare local fish from all over Japan.
We ordered Umazurahagi and Kasago. The customer next to us also ordered Umazurahagi without a moment’s delay, but it was hard to miss the fact that he started making his order from ours. He does not make the nigiri sushi for the sake of efficiency. And of course, the fish is kept cold in a glass case with the skin on. This prevents oxidation of the ingredients as much as possible. And since the skin is the most delicious part of the fish, this is why we want to keep it on the meat until the very last minute. These are the basics of a sushi chef.
The liver is served on top of the Umazurahagi nigiri. Liver goes bad fast. It is meant to be alive and super fresh until a few hours ago. Its taste is often compared to that of foie gras, but it is not. Natural fish liver has a decidedly better aftertaste than foie gras. It makes you want to eat another piece. Kasago used to be a popular fish in the past, but now it is popular as a high-end fish. Sushi rice enhances the sweetness of the meat and gives it a different flavor from that of Red seabream (Tai) or Bastard halibut (Hirame).
Some sushi connoisseurs even prefer Southern Bluefin tuna (Minami maguro), as the lean meat lacks the slight acidity and faint aroma of blood that can be found in Pacific Bluefin tuna.
Next is the main dish, tuna. He insists on fresh, not frozen, tuna. He uses Mebachi and Minami-Maguro to keep the price reasonable. Today’s tuna was Minami-maguro. April to May is the time when the fat is removed from the meat of Kuro-maguro caught in coastal waters. Minami-maguro is next in rank to Kuro-maguro, but that is not true. Minami-Maguro is not widely distributed, so its richness is not well known. It also changes color quickly, which is its weak point.
Next is Geso, a specialty item at 30 yen per piece, Geso is squid’s leg. In fact, geso is not suitable for nigirizushi. The squid’s body is wrapped in a thin skin, and it is especially difficult to remove it from Geso. It is best for Tsumami when boiled or grilled. Fresh Geso, properly salted, has no fishy smell at all. The taste of the squid itself is concentrated. Try it with a dash of Nikiri shoyu.
Next is Aozakana (Blue-backed fish). These are caught in the morning and sent from the producing area. Today he has Horse mackerel (Aji) and Japanese sardine (Iwashi). The Aji is a top-quality fish from Amakusa, Kumamoto Prefecture, a famous fish producing area. The meat is thick and sweet when chewed. The ginger is used as a condiment to give it a refreshing taste. The Iwashi is in its peak of fatty season, and its light flavor was so delicate that one could hardly believe it was Iwashi.
Gizzard shad (Kohada) has larger pieces of sushi topping and smaller pieces of sushi rice. It is coated with a brush of Nikiri shoyu, so there is no need to dip it in soy sauce. The color is glossy and the fat is wonderful when eaten. And it is the type served at long-established sushi restaurants with the sourness of vinegar.
Shellfish available today are Ark shell (Akagai) and Common scallop (Hotate). Shellfish is a material in which it is easy to tell whether the quality is good or bad. If something tastes like chewing gum that has lost its flavor, it is not good. For Akagai, the key is whether or not the aroma of the sea pervades your mouth. Of course, the shells were removed after receiving the order. This way, the aroma of the sea does not escape. At first glance, the small-sized Hotate did not seem to have much sweetness, but I was impressed by its modest and elegant sweetness.
If we dare to make a bad comment after eating here, both the sushi topping and the sushi rice are 30% smaller than they were a few years ago. But that’s no surprise. They haven’t raised their prices even though prices have skyrocketed so high. In these days of conveyor-belt sushi, the toppings are as flimsy as paper.
Today we ate 18 pieces of nigiri sushi and 1 piece of Makimono in less than 1 hour. It is not painful at all to stay standing. Sushi is served on time, so you don’t have to wait around for it. And all this for only US$30. I think you can experience nigiri sushi to the fullest.
Basic Information
Address: 5-3-13 Higashioi, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo
TEL: +81-3-3474-8089
: 1 minute walk from East Exit of JR Oimachi Station
Business hours: 18:00-23:00 (closes when all toppings are gone)
Essentially, no fish cannot be processed into fish paste products using current food processing technology. However, it is important to have a stable supply of high-catch fish species, which are inexpensive, and whose meat is suitable for fish paste products. High-catch species such as sardine and Alaska pollack are the main raw material for mass-produced fish paste products. However, many of the fish paste products that are considered local specialties in Japan are originally produced using locally caught fish. Among fish paste products, fish species other than the most prolific are used when the flavor of the product varies depending on the fish used.
Now that you understand more, let’s continue with the explanation using Kamaboko (蒲鉾), the most widely used fish paste product, as an example. The preferred fish to be used as the raw materials for Kamaboko have strong Ashi, good Suwari and doesn’t Modori easily.
Ashi refers to the moderate resilience that Kamaboko has, with a crisp and crunchy texture, proving that it is a good product. In other words, strong Ashi means that the fish has adequate firmness. Types of fish with strong Ashi include Flyingfish, Japanese aulopus, Brushtooth lizardfish, Bartail flathead, Red seabream, Golden threadfin-bream, Silver croaker, Honnibe croaker, Grub fish, Spiny goby, Indo-Pacific blue marlin, Globefish and others. Generally, Shiromi fish are considered to be strong and Akami fish are considered to be weak, while freshwater fish and shrimp are considered to be weak for the most part.
Suwari refers to the ease of surimi hardening and depends not only on the difference in type of fish, but differences also occur due to temperature and pH of the surimi, freshness of the raw fish material and how the fish was killed. In other words, poor Suwari means that the fish doesn’t firm up easily. Fish well-known for having good Suwari start with Indo-Pacific blue marlin and also include Honnibe croaker, Flying fish, Brushtooth lizardfish, Grub fish, Red seabream, etc. Fish known to have poor Suwari included crucian carp, bonito monkfish, sardines, etc. Generally, fish that live in coldwater regions have better Suwari while fish that live in warm waters and freshwater fish have poor Suwari.
Modori or Hi-modori refers to the phenomenon of weakened elasticity when fish that were hardened through the Suwari process has been further heated. Modori depends on the type, freshness and season the raw material fish was caught. Fish that don’t succumb to Modori easily include Grub fish, Needlefish, Indo-Pacific blue marlin, Starspotted smooth-hound, Flathead gray mullet, Horse mackerel, etc. Fish known to succumb to Modori easily include sardine, leatherjacket, Honnibe croaker, Chub mackerel, Crucian carps, Japanese Spanish mackerel, etc. Surimi color is reflected in the finished product, so Shiromi fish with a white finish is generally preferred over Akami fish, which results in a darker finish. However, it is possible to create a white finish, even using Akami fish, with some extra work.
Because the unique flavor of the raw fish is lost during the Surimi production process, it is common to season the fish afterward, but some specialty products are produced in such a way that the flavor of the raw fish is not lost.
Until World War II, the production of fish paste products was not organized for mass production, and many factories had only a few craftsmen at most. Only locally caught fish were used as ingredients. Since there were no refrigeration facilities, the factories had to be closed during the summer months, when it was difficult to maintain quality.
After the war, when the bottom trawling fishery in the East China Sea started, raw fish such as Silver croaker, Yellow croaker, Large yellow croaker, Eellowback sea-bream, Nemipteridae, and Largehead hairtail came to be supplied cheaply and stably. Advances in cold storage technology and distribution networks have also made it possible to mechanize the production process and mass produce products.
As a result, the production of fish paste products continued to increase in both quality and quantity, and the demand could no longer be met by inshore raw fish alone. At this time, frozen surimi from Alaska pollack appeared on the market.
Frozen surimi is a raw material made by adding sugars such as sucrose and sorbitol, which prevent protein denaturation, and polyphosphate to surimi and then freezing and storing it. The basic technology for frozen surimi was developed at the Hokkaido Fisheries Experiment Station in 1960.
Frozen surimi can be classified into three categories: unsalted surimi, which has little protein denaturation during freezing; salted surimi, which can be commercialized with high ash content; and ground surimi, which is processed at a factory from raw fish.
The quality standards for the commercialized surimi are set by the National Frozen Fish Meat Association, and there are several grades of surimi in the Alaska pollack. Most of the frozen surimi produced are made from Alaska pollack, but due to a decrease in Alaska pollack production, Red seabream and Nemipteridae caught off the coast of Hong Kong have also been used as surimi raw materials.
Types of Fish paste products
Chikuwa
Chikuwa is Surimi wrapped around a bamboo stick and heated. The baked chikuwa is called yaki-chikuwa, and the steamed chikuwa is called shiro-tikuwa. Toyohashi-Chikuwa from Toyohashi City, Aichi Prefecture, is especially famous. It is characterized by the fact that both ends are white and only the middle area is browned.
Date-maki
Date-maki is made by adding eggs and sugar to Surimi, rubbing to a foamy consistency, and then baking. Good quality is considered to be made with sharks as the raw material fish. Date-maki is known throughout Japan as a New Year’s product.
Yaki-kamaboko
Among the many types of kamaboko, yaki-kamaboko is the most common type of kamaboko in Japan. Historically, this method is the oldest.
Yaki-ita in the Kansai region is made from Daggertooth pike conger, Synodontidae, and Sciaenidae. In order to preserve the flavor of the ingredients, the process of soaking in water is shortened, and the surimi is steamed and hardened once before the surface is seared and browned.
Hanpen
Hanpen is made by adding yams to Surimi, making it foamy, and steaming it. It is characterized by the lack of ashi and a fluffy marshmallow-like texture. It is a fish paste product unique to the Kanto region, and the best fish paste products are those that use sharks as ingredients. It is one of the oldest fish paste products.
Kanikama
Kanikama is a fish paste product that has the texture, shape, color, and flavor of crab, just like crab meat. The raw material is not crab but fish surimi. The main ingredient is Alaska pollack, a white fish that has no peculiarities or odor. Other surimi such as golden threadfin-bream and largscaled saury are also used.
Mushi-kamaboko
Mushi-kamaboko was already being produced around the end of the Edo period. It is most commonly found in the Kanto area, with Odawara-kamaboko in Odawara City, Kanagawa Prefecture, being the most famous.
Odawara-kamaboko is mainly made from Sciaenidae and soaked in mineral-rich groundwater to produce a white, ashi-rich product. Odawara-kamaboko is also characterized by the abundance of Itatsuki-kamaboko.
Naruto-maki
Naruto-maki is made by coating the inside of white surimi with red-colored surimi, rolling it up in a bamboo screen, and steaming it. It is called this because the spiral pattern on the cross section is associated with the whirlpools of Naruto. It is used as a garnish for noodles and chirashi-sushi.
Sasa-kamaboko
Sasa-kamaboko is a type of yaki-kamabo. Sasa-kamaboko from Sendai City, Miyagi Prefecture, uses a mixture of Bastard halibut, Broadbanded thornyhead, and Nemipteridae as ingredients, shaped into a leaf shape, and grilled over charcoal.
Satsumaage
Satsumaage is a generic name for deep-fried surimi. The best products are made from Sciaenidae and Synodontidae. Some products from Kagoshima and Okinawa are made with brown sugar, which gives them a very sweet taste.
Hamo-ita
Hamo-ita is made from only daggertooth pike conger, steamed once, and then carefully baked. It is a specialty of Osaka.
Ooba (Aojiso) is the name for only the leafy part of the shiso plant, the green perilla.
Actually, Shiso (紫蘇) and Ooba (大葉) are the same things.
Akajiso (red perilla) is a perilla with reddish purple leaves.
Shiso (perilla leaf) has green perilla (青紫蘇) with green leaves and red perilla (赤紫蘇) with reddish-purple leaves. Shiso is originally reddish purple in color, and green perilla is a variant of red perilla. The red color of red perilla is due to the pigment shisonin, a type of anthocyanin.
What is Shiso?
Shiso originates from southern China to Myanmar. The shiso is an aromatic Japanese herb and has been used as a condiment in tempura and other Japanese dishes for centuries. Shortly sprouted seeds are called Mejiso (芽紫蘇). The young shoots of green perilla are Aome (青芽), and the young shoots of red perilla are Murame (紫芽).
And Hanajiso (花紫蘇), where about 30% of the shiso flowers are about to bloom. Hojiso (穂紫蘇) is harvested while the fruit is immature. These are also used as garnishes and condiments for sashimi and other dishes.
Why is Shiso called Ooba?
There are two theories. One is to distinguish it from Mejisho, which was used as Tsuma for Sashimi. The young shoots of shiso are Mejisho and the leaves of shiso are Ooba. The other is Ooba, which was adopted as the trade name for the bundles of green perilla leaves that were sold. Since neither of these names is well known to the general consumers, there is no understanding that green perilla and Ooba are the same things.
The many benefits of Shiso
Shiso has one of the highest levels of β-carotene among vegetables. β-carotene is an antioxidant that boosts immunity and protects the body from active oxygen species that cause cancer and atherosclerosis. Shiso is also rich in alpha-linolenic acid. It is converted into DHA and EPA in the body and is believed to prevent aging.
Shiso is rich in iron. Since anemia requires supplementation of iron deficiency, shiso leaves, which are rich in iron, are good food for preventing anemia. It also contains high amounts of calcium, which helps iron absorption.
Shiso contains high levels of potassium, a mineral that helps the body eliminate excess sodium in the urine. By controlling water metabolism in the body, it is expected to reduce swelling.
Perillaldehyde, the aromatic component of green perilla and red perilla, stimulates the secretion of gastric juice, increases appetite, and stimulates gastrointestinal function. red perilla is also used in Chinese herbal medicine to improve gastrointestinal symptoms. It also has strong antiseptic and antibacterial properties. It is often used as a condiment for sashimi tsuma and other dishes because of this potential antimicrobial and sterilizing action, and it is also believed to have some antiseptic properties.
Rosmarinic acid, a type of polyphenol contained in Shiso, is believed to suppress the generation of the active oxygen with its high antioxidant power, making it less likely to cause allergic symptoms. Taking it into the body on a daily basis is expected not only to suppress the aggravation of inflammation but also to make the body less prone to inflammation.
The β-carotene in shiso prevents skin from oxidizing and aging. Calcium, which is abundant in shiso leaves, helps to connect skin cells to each other. It is also rich in vitamin C, which is believed to be effective in whitening the skin.
The common taste of squid is sweetness. However, the taste is not very rich. Therefore, Nori or other ingredients are placed between the sushi rice and the sushi topping, because Nori has a unique umami taste due to amino acids, such as glutamic acid.
As a side note, Ooba is often placed between the shari and squid at conveyor-belt sushi restaurants. This is to mask the fishy smell of the squid with the smell of the Ooba.
She is very interested in eating sushi toppings for the first time.
We’ll start by breaking down the meaning of this word in Japanese.
The “O” of “Omakase” is a prefix generally used as an honorific expression. The meaning of “makase” refers to a judgment of things and means to entrust a task you were meant to do to someone else, allowing them to perform the task at their own discretion. In terms of sushi, while a customer normally chooses which toppings they want to eat on their own, a customer with limited sushi topping knowledge may ask the chef to prepare his own recommendations.
There are various other ways to order sushi toppings as well. First, sushi restaurants generally have a set menu called “Okimari.” For example, let’s consider an Okimari set that contains 8 pieces of nigiri sushi. This set of 8 pieces will contain the same toppings and maintain the same price throughout the year. In contrast, a customer may choose the number of toppings they like in whatever order they prefer, such as ordering two pieces each of four types of toppings, which is called “Okonomi.” They can even order eight of the same topping. The price for “Okonomi” depends on what is ordered, the more expensive the toppings are, the higher the price will be. For “Omakase,” the chef would select 8 toppings and serve them in his recommended order. However, the customer conveys their budget to the chef in advance so the sushi course can be provided within that budget. The customer can also specify toppings they prefer to avoid. In other words, you need to let the chef know in advance about your budget according to the market, and any requests (For example, I would like to eat the Splendid alfonsino (Kinmedai) in season) that you can’t budge on. You don’t need to leave those two things up to the chef’s discretion.
Now, in actuality, there are many sushi restaurants that stray from the original definition of “Omakase.”
For instance, he/she may include Tsumami as part of the course, rather than only sushi. This would be Sushi Kappo (sitting at the counter to enjoy Japanese food and served directly by the chef). A sushi restaurant was once a place where only Nigiri sushi was served. To explain in more detail, if only Nigiri sushi is served, then even if you were to eat 20 pieces of Nigiri sushi, your time in the restaurant would only be around 30 minutes (this is true the case of the establishment of the famous Jiro). Nowadays sushi restaurants are used for entertaining business clients or going on dates, so the customer may stay for around two hours. In situations like this conversation is the priority, so the actual ordering of the sushi takes the backseat. Incidentally, the practice of drinking Japanese sake at sushi restaurants is said to have begun around 1910.
Next, we’ll let you in on a common misconception that you probably don’t want to hear.
Apparently, people believe that ordering Omakase means that you will be served rare pieces that are not disclosed on the menu. Some are even convinced that they can get more expensive toppings than they would if they ordered with the Okonomi method. However, the restaurant just sets the price for the Omakase course and just adjusts the menu items accordingly (to suit the budget) based on current stock. The benefit to the restaurant is that it only stocks the amount of seafood necessary and will waste less. Unfortunately, rare finds are reserved for customers who know what they like. Go ahead and toss any such expectations out of your mind right now. Instead, acquiring sushi knowledge will allow you to avoid being recommended toppings that are approaching expiration.
Finally, if you just get an expensive Omakase course without understanding where the toppings came from or when they are in season, then it won’t contribute to your deeper understanding of the magnificence of Nigiri sushi.
Of the ingredients used to make dashi, katsuobushi is the most common.
Katsuobushi (鰹節) appears frequently in documents from the Muromachi period (1333-1573) and later, and was used then, as it is now, to take dashi. The name Tosa-bushi is also found in documents from the early Edo period (1603-1868), but the method of making it seems to have been to boil it down and then dry it in the sun, and it is said that the current molding method was invented around 1673~81. In theTosa Domain, which has been famous for bonito fishing since ancient times, Harimaya Sanosuke of Usa and Yamazaki Giemon of Nakahama worked to improve and popularize Tosa-bushi, and the name Tosa-bushi spread as a specialty of the domain in Edo and Osaka.
The process of making katsuobushi begins by boiling the formed bonito meat in boiling water, removing the bones and some of the skin, placing it in baskets, and then placing it in a chamber to be heated and dried over a fire made of oak, sawtooth oak, or kashiwa (oak tree). This is called Baikan (焙乾).
At this stage the product to be shipped is called Namabushi. The first Baikan is called Ichiban-bi. After that, the cracks and missing parts of the Fushi are repaired with bonito surimi. The baikan is repeated once a day for 2 to 12 times. In case you are wondering, Katsuobushi before shaving is called Fushi.
After Baikan, it is called Arabushi (荒節) or Onibushi (鬼節). After drying in the sun for a few days, the surface is scraped with a small knife and called Hadakabushi (裸節), Akamuki (赤むき), Wakabushi (若節), Shinbushi (新節), etc. After drying in the sun again, it is placed in a wooden box called Kabi-tsuke-bako for 15 to 17 days in a cool and dark place, and the surface of the Fushi is covered with blue-green mold. This initial molding is called Ichiban-kabi (一番黴). This process is repeated, and those that have been processed for Niban-kabi are called Aokarebushi (青枯れ節).
This process is usually repeated four times, and when the Yoban-kabi (四番黴) process is completed, the product is called Hongarebushi (本枯れ節). This process is very effective in reducing the fishy smell and fat content of the Fushi and improving its flavor and color.
The best Katsuobushi is the one that is well-dried, has a tortoiseshell-like color, and a clear metallic sound when tapped. When buying katsuobushi with high-fat content or oxidized fat, the surface color may be white or yellowish-brown, so care should be taken when purchasing katsuobushi.
Kezuribushi made by shaving Hongarebushi is called Katsuobushi-kezuri (鰹節削り). On the other hand, shaved Arabushi is called Katsuo-kezuri (鰹削り). Katsuobushi-kezuri has a milder fragrance than Katsuo-kezuri and is relatively light. This is because the mold softens the smoky smell of Baikan and the fishy smell of fish.
Generally, Arabushi is used mainly in Kansai, while Hongarebushi is preferred in Kanto. The reason for this goes back to the Edo period (1603-1867). At that time, Katsuobushi was transported to Edo by sea from western Japan, including Tosa, Satsuma, and Kishu. However, because mold grew during the voyage, it was dried in the sun and eaten, which added a mild aroma. Since then, mold-dried Katsuobushi has been favored in Edo.
Kezuribushi varies in thickness. Usukezuri (薄削り) is 0.1 mm or less and is used as Hana-katsuo (花かつお) for decoration, and is not suitable for making dashi. Nakakezuri (中削り) is around 0.2 mm thick and is generally used at home because it can be used to make dashi in a short period of time. Atsukezuri (厚削り) is about 0.7 mm thick and should be boiled for about 20 minutes to make dashi. Atsukezuri is rarely used by itself but is often blended with several types of Fushi for commercial use.
Kezuribushi is all about the aroma. To prevent volatilization and oxidation of the aroma, it should be sealed in a plastic bag, with the air inside pushed out, and stored in a refrigerator or freezer. Even though it is dry food, it needs to be handled in the same way as fresh food.
What are the aromatic components of katsuobushi?
Katsuobushi is said to be the hardest food in the world, yet it is often used in thinly shaved form. It is primarily used in dashi and furikake to enhance umami and aroma. The aroma of katsuobushi is generated during the manufacturing process through smoking and mold cultivation. The aroma increases during the baikan (dry-roasting process), and ketones such as acetone and 2-butane, aromatic hydrocarbons such as benzene and toluene, furans such as 2-methylfuran, pyrazines such as dimethylpyrazine, and phenols such as phenol and guaiacol have been identified. Many of these seem to originate from the components of the smoke used in the dry-roasting process.
Shiokara (salted fish guts) and Gyosho (fish sauce) are widely produced throughout East Asia and are very similar foods in terms of their ingredients and production methods.
Gyosho is made by preserving raw seafood in salt. It is a fermented food in which the raw materials are broken down into amino acids, mainly by the action of enzymes contained in the raw materials, and the umami is intensified. There are solid and liquid products leached from it.
The production process is not much different from that of salted fish, but salted fish is intended for long-term preservation of protein sources, whereas gyosho is produced for use as a seasoning. It is originally obtained as a byproduct of salted fish, but nowadays, it is produced only for the purpose of obtaining Gyosho.
However, most of the Shoyu produced in Japan is made from cereal grains, and the amount of gyosho produced for local consumption is minimal.
Types of Gyosho
Shottsuru
Shottsuru has long been produced in the Akita area. Sailfin sandfish (Hatahata) is the most well-known fish used, but Sardine and Pacific sand lance are also used. First, the fish’s head, entrails, and tail fins are removed, and the fish is washed in water. Then the fish is drained, and about 10 kg of fish is mixed with about 1,800 ml of rice malt and 1,800 ml of salt, packed in a wooden barrel, covered with a lid, and weighted down. After maturing in a cool, dark place for about three years, the fish is filtered and boiled to make the product.
Ishiru
Ishiru is made in the Okunoto region. There are other names such as Ishiri, Yoshiru, and Yoshiri. The fish used are sardine, round herring, horse-mackerel, etc. The meat is often processed into dried fish, and the surplus heads and entrails are used. About 30% salt is added to this, packed in miso barrels, covered with a sheet, and aged for six months to a year. After that, it is boiled and filtered to make the product.
Ishikawa Prefecture also produces “Ishiri,” which is easily mistaken for “Ishiru,” but it is made from the entrails of the Japanese common squid.
Nam pla (น้ำปลา)
Nam pla is an essential seasoning for Thai cuisine. In Thai, nam means liquid and pla means fish. In the traditional method, small marine fish, starting with sardine, are mixed with 30~40% salt by weight and placed in a large jar for maturing.
After about a year, a long, thin bamboo basket is inserted into the jar and the liquid that has leached out is drawn out and bottled to make the product. Inland, freshwater fish such as Carp and Loach are used. There is also a theory that the origin of Nam pla is to use freshwater fish.
Anchovy sauce
Gyosho, called garum, was widely used in ancient Rome around the 1st century BC. Bluefish such as mackerel would be pickled in salt, stuffed into unglazed jars, and maturing under the sun. The garum that flowed out through a hole drilled in the bottom of the jar was then used as a seasoning. In Italy, garum production stopped around the 16th century.
Anchovy sauce, a similar product made by maturing salted round herring for six months or more, grinding it, and adding spices, is now used as a secret ingredient in spaghetti and other Italian dishes.
Nước mắm
Nước mắm is mainly made from Round herring and Amberstripe scad in Vietnamese Gyosho, and Carp, Loach and Catfish fry are also used around the Mekong Delta. The cleaned fish is placed in a container with 10~15% salt by weight, stirred every morning, and salt is gradually added until it reaches a concentration of about 30%, depending on the progress of maturing. Those aged for one year or more are more delicious. Gyosho from Đảo Phú Quốc is considered the best.
Colatura
Colatura is an Italian Gyosho. It is made from nothing but round herring and salt. The round herring is first removed from the head and entrails and placed in a barrel, alternately layered with salt. Then, a wooden lid is placed on the herring, and weights are placed on top of it for maturing.
After maturing for three to four years, a hole is drilled in the bottom of the barrel and the Colatura is slowly extracted, drop by drop, over time. The slow aging process in the barrels concentrates the flavor of the fish and produces the amber-colored Colatura.
