Both sabazushi and battera are types of oshizushi made with mackerel. Oshizushi is made by layering vinegared rice with vinegared mackerel and shiro-ita konbu, then pressing the mixture into a wooden mold. Mackerel has been abundant in Japan since ancient times, which led to the development of this dish as a practical preserved food.
There are clear differences between Sabazushi and Battera, so let us explain them.
The appearance of sabazushi
Sabazushi is said to have originated in the Edo period. Mackerel is salted and transported from its place of origin in Wakasa to Kyoto, where it arrives after 2 to 3 days, by which time the seasoning is just right. This salted mackerel is used to make Sabazushi. Even today, with the development of refrigeration technology, it remains popular with many people and is also a local dish of Kyoto. There are also long-established sushi restaurants that have been in business for generations. Additionally, Sabazushi can be found in other regions such as Hyogo, Hiroshima, and Wakayama, which have adopted the dish from Kyoto.
Sabazushi is prepared using a unique method. First, the air is removed from the vinegared rice to extend its shelf life. Then, the vinegar-marinated mackerel is formed into sticks with a cloth or bamboo mat. Finally, shiroita konbu or rausu konbu is placed on top to prevent the mackerel from drying out. Only half of the mackerel is used so that the thickness of the flesh is evident. The cross-section is rounded, which is why it is also called bozushi (bo means “stick”).
The appearance of battera
Next, Battera is a type of Oshizushi made by placing thinly sliced mackerel marinated in vinegar and shiroita konbu simmered in sweet vinegar on top of vinegared rice. It is typically shaped using a square mold. The mackerel is cut with a knife to minimize waste, resulting in an almost uniform thickness.
Battera is said to have been invented in 1894 by Tsunekichi Naka, the founder of Sushi Tsune, a sushi restaurant in Osaka. At the time, Sushi Tsune was selling Oshizushi made with Konishiro (Gizzard Shad), which was commonly caught in Osaka Bay. Due to its popularity, the traditional method using a cloth became insufficient for production, so a wooden, boat-shaped mold was used instead.
Customers reportedly referred to the mold as “bateira,” a Portuguese word meaning “boat,” which evolved into “battella.” Over time, this name further transformed into “Battera.” As the price of Konishiro (Gizzard Shad) rose, mackerel was adopted as an alternative, and due to its ease of shaping, square molds became the standard.
In summary,
Sabazushi: Use a bamboo mat to shape the fish into a round form, using thick slices of mackerel left whole. The cross-section has a rounded shape.
Battera: Shaped into a square using a wooden mold, thinly sliced mackerel is arranged evenly. The cross-section is square.
Sabazushi is a traditional regional sushi centered around Kyoto, while Battera is a type of sushi that became popular among the general public in Osaka.
This is what most people think of when they hear the word chirashizushi.
Recently, I came across an image on social media of Barachirashizushi made by an American sushi chef. I was surprised to see that Barachirashizushi, a dish traditionally made only by a few sushi restaurants that uphold the Edomae-style, had been created by a sushi chef outside Japan. However, it was labeled as Chirashizushi, which I found disappointing, so I will explain the difference.
The term “chirashizushi” (or “chirashi sushi”) originates from the act of scattering various ingredients over or within vinegared rice and is sometimes referred to simply as “chirashi.” Generally, “Gomokuzushi” refers to vinegared rice mixed with ingredients, while “chirashizushi” refers to vinegared rice topped with arranged ingredients. However, these terms are not strictly distinguished. The names may vary depending on the region (e.g., Kanto or Kansai) and generation.
First, let’s explore the origin of chirashizushi. The term “barazushi” appears here, but it is different from barachirashizushi.
Barazushi, a type of sushi from Okayama, is said to date back to the early Edo period. At that time, the feudal lord of Okayama Domain, Ikeda Mitsumasa (1609–1682), promoted frugality and simplicity. He issued the “One Soup, One Side Dish Edict,” which restricted side dishes to one item other than soup.
They finely chopped ingredients such as simmered shiitake mushrooms, kanpyo (dried gourd strips), and carrots and secretly mixed them into the rice. According to one story, sushi ingredients were placed at the bottom of a box and covered with seasoned rice to disguise them as a simple meal. The box was then flipped over just before serving.
As “Barazushi” spread throughout Japan, a style of scattering the ingredients on top of the vinegared rice rather than mixing them in was developed, and this became known as “Chirashizushi.”
Now, let’s look at the difference between chirashizushi and barachirashizushi, focusing on the names used in sushi restaurants in Tokyo.
The appearance of Chirashizushi
In Tokyo sushi, specifically Edomae sushi, Chirasushizushi refers to a dish where sushi toppings used for Nigiri sushi are arranged on top of vinegared rice (also known as Namachirashi, Fukiyosechirashi, or Edomaechirashi). However, in regions outside the Tokyo area, Chirashizushi generally refers to a dish where seasoned ingredients are mixed into vinegared rice and decorated with shredded omelette and seaweed (also known as Gomokuzushi or Barazsuhi). This is just my personal opinion, but I think that even in Tokyo, the latter is called chirashizushi.
Dishes made with plain white rice rather than vinegared rice are generally called seafood bowls. Sushi restaurants do not serve bowls of plain white rice (they cannot), but some restaurants call dishes made with vinegared rice seafood bowls. In my personal opinion, most seafood bowls served outside of sushi restaurants are made with plain white rice.
The appearance of Barachirashizushi
Additionally, a dish with randomly arranged sushi toppings on vinegared rice is called “barachirashizushi.” Some traditional sushi restaurants in Tokyo offer two types: chirashizushi, which is primarily served in-store, and barachirashizushi, which excludes toppings that are not suitable for takeout and can be taken home.
Incidentally, chirashizushi made with sushi ingredients is not typically prepared in Kanto-style households. More precisely, it may include decorative toppings such as ikura (salmon roe), tobiko (flying fish roe), and steamed shrimp; however, the standard ingredients are dried shiitake mushrooms, lotus root, carrots, snow peas, and shredded omelet.
Other names for ao-negi include ha-negi, sho-negi, and bannō-negi.
We think foreigners may be unable to tell the difference between Japanese green onions just by looking at them. There are two main types, but even though they are the same onion, they have different names, which can be confusing. In the Kanto region and northern Japan, shiro-negi (Japanese leeks) are commonly eaten, while in western Japan, ao-negi (green onions) are the mainstream variety. Green onions used as a condiment in udon and soba noodles are also Japanese leeks in the east and green onions in the west.
Other names for Naga-negi include Shiro-nrgi and Nebuka-negi.
Onions with more white parts are called “Nebuka-negi (根深ネギ),” while those with more green parts are called “Ha-negi (葉ネギ).” In Eastern Japan, the term “negi” simply refers to Nebuka-negi (also called Naga-negi or Shiro-negi), which is grown by mounding soil around the plant as it grows to protect it from direct sunlight, resulting in a strong flavor and thick stems. Other types are distinguished by specific names such as “Wakegi,” “Asatsuki,” “Bannō-negi (also called sho-negi),” and “Kujo-negi.” In western Japan, the thin Ha-negi grown in the sun is called “Ao-negi,” and Nebuka-negi is sometimes referred to as “Shiro-negi” or “Nebuka.”
In summary, the word negi in Japanese cuisine is a broad term that can refer to several varieties: Ao-negi (青ネギ), common in western Japan; Naga-negi (長ネギ), more popular in eastern Japan; and their subtypes such as Bannō-negi (万能ネギ), an improved cultivar of Ao-negi, and Kujo-negi (九条ネギ), a Kyoto specialty. These variations can be confusing to foreigners, but they reflect how regional food culture has shaped the way green onions are used in Japanese cooking.
Onions Commonly Used in Sushi Restaurants
In Japanese sushi restaurants, several types of onions play important supporting roles in flavor and presentation. The most common are Bannō-negi (万能ネギ), a versatile fine green onion; Ao-negi (青ネギ), the standard leaf onion; Naga-negi (長ネギ), a long Welsh onion often used as Shiraga-negi; and Me-negi (芽ネギ), the tender young sprout onion. Each type has its own distinct characteristics and culinary uses.
Bannō-negi, often translated as “fine green onion,” is actually an improved cultivar of the broader Ao-negi group. Compared to standard Aoba-negi, it is thinner, softer, and milder, making it especially suitable as a garnish for sushi or sashimi.
By contrast, Naga-negi has a thick white stalk. In sushi, it is often shredded into fine strips called Shiraga-negi (白髪ネギ), which are placed on top of fatty fish to balance richness with a refreshing sharpness. By the way, Shiraga (meaning “white hair”)-negi refers to the white part of Naga-negi, sliced thinly like white hair.
Another variation is Me-negi, which are delicate and visually appealing. They provide a crisp texture and a subtle, grassy fragrance that complements lighter sushi toppings.
Together, these different forms of onions demonstrate how sushi chefs carefully choose the right variety to balance flavor, texture, and presentation.
Sashimi is a standard menu item at whale specialty restaurants.
It has been six years since Japan withdrew from the International Whaling Commission (IWC) and resumed commercial whaling. Many consumers had hoped that whale meat would become cheaper and appear on dinner tables. This is because whale meat is a nutritious and versatile ingredient that can be used in a variety of dishes. However, the amount of whale meat available in circulation has decreased compared to the era of research whaling. What exactly were the Japanese government and the whaling industry trying to protect?
On the other hand, the three countries strongly pushing for a “whale hunting ban” in Japan are the United States, Australia, and New Zealand. Why is Japan not allowed to engage in commercial whaling when Iceland and Norway are permitted to do so? Such inconsistencies also exist.
In fact, very few Japanese people actually want to eat whale meat. According to a survey by Greenpeace, 95% of Japanese people do not particularly want to eat whale meat. It is said that the average annual consumption of whale meat per person in Japan is now 40 grams. It was quite a challenge to find images of whale sushi in our saved files.
In other words, whales may now be used as political and economic tools, transcending issues such as human food and the environment.
To put it bluntly, it may be the fault of a few members of parliament elected from constituencies with many whaling-related interests and hundreds of bureaucrats who do not want to lose their budgets.
This article is simply to show that whale sushi exists as part of Japanese food culture. Although rare today, whale occasionally appears as sushi neta (topping). So, what kinds of whale are actually used for sushi? Let’s take a closer look.
Minke whales in the northern hemisphere are about 8 meters long. Seen from above, their heads are pointed at the tip. There is a white patch on the upper center of the pectoral fins. The dorsal fin, about 30 cm high, is located toward the rear of the body and is often clearly sickle-shaped. The back is black, the sides are gray with a blurred pattern, and the lower jaw and abdomen are white.
It generally feeds on krill, small squid, and fish. It filters its food through bristle-like baleen plates, made of keratin. The Japanese name for the minke whale is higekujira, which means bearded whale.
Description: A relatively small baleen whale, measuring about 7–10 meters in length.
Use: The most commonly caught species in Japan’s commercial whaling, widely utilized for sushi toppings, sashimi, and bacon-style preparations.
Flavor: The red meat is tender with little odor, making it one of the more approachable types of whale meat.
Bryde’s Whale is a close relative of the Sei whale. It was named “Nitarikujira” (meaning “similar whale”) because it resembles the Sei whale. It grows to a maximum length of about 15 meters and is slightly smaller than the Sei whale.
Description: A medium-sized baleen whale, usually 12–15 meters long, larger than the minke whale.
Use: Its red meat is served as sushi or sashimi, while fatty cuts and tail meat are often cooked.
Flavor: The red meat has a richer taste with a pronounced umami and iron-like character.
3. Sei Whale (Balaenoptera borealis Lesson, 1828)
Sei whales are baleen whales belonging to the family Balaenopteridae. They migrate across the open ocean in schools of sardines, feeding on them, which is how they got their name.
Two subspecies are recognized: the northern hemisphere subspecies (B. b. borealis) and the southern hemisphere subspecies (B. b. schlegelii). They are distributed in the southern Indian Ocean, the North Atlantic and South Atlantic, and the North Pacific and South Pacific.
Its body is slender and spindle-shaped, with a sickle-shaped dorsal fin. The dorsal color is dark blue, the ventral color is light blue, and there are blurred patterns in between. The head is V-shaped, enabling it to swim at high speeds. The maximum body length is approximately 18 meters.
Description: A baleen whale that grows 12–18 meters long. In the past, it was more frequently caught, but today only limited numbers are harvested.
Use: The lean red meat is used for sushi or sashimi, while fattier portions are processed into bacon or fried dishes.
Flavor: The meat is tender and relatively mild, with a clean, elegant taste.
Sperm whales are distributed worldwide from the Arctic to the Antarctic, with the largest populations found in deep ocean waters. Male sperm whales grow to a length of 15 to 20 meters and weigh between 40 and 60 tons. Their body color is blackish gray, but it becomes whiter with age. In particular, the head tends to become whiter. The dorsal fin is mountain-shaped, with several ridges extending from the rear toward the tail fin. The surface of the body, except for the head, is rough and uneven.
Description: A toothed whale and one of the largest whale species, reaching 15–20 meters or more in length.
Use: Rarely used as sushi. Instead, its distinctive fatty tissue is made into “toothed whale bacon” or other processed foods.
Flavor: The fat has a unique aroma and a very rich, heavy taste.
Types of whale meat
Saezuri
Saezuri is very fatty, and the taste and texture differ between the root and tip of the tongue. It has a deep umami flavor and is used in simmered dishes and oden. It is one of the most popular delicacies of whale meat.
Onomi
The back section from the dorsal fin to the tail, with fat marbled like snowflakes (shimofuri). Considered the most delicious part of whale meat, it is also known as whale Otoro.
Unesu
The white, accordion-shaped part running vertically from the lower jaw to the navel is called Une, and the red inner part is called Sunoko. These two parts together form Unesu. It has a soft, gelatinous texture and is one of the most popular whale meat cuts, cherished for generations.
Bacon
Bacon is a processed food made by salting and smoking the part called Unesu.
Sudachi is small in size with an intense aroma and a sharp, refreshing acidity. In contrast, kabosu contains more juice and offers a milder sourness, giving it a soft flavor that enhances other ingredients without overpowering them. Sudachi is about the size of a golf ball, while kabosu is about the size of a tennis ball.
【Nutritional value of kabosu】
Vitamin C
Citric acid
Potassium
Pinene
Limonene
【Nutritional value of sudachi】
Sudachitin
Vitamin C
Citric acid
Potassium
Beta-carotene
Vitamin E
Calcium
Dietary fiber Polyphenols
At sushi restaurants, these characteristics are carefully utilized. Sudachi is often paired with delicate toppings such as white fish or shellfish, where just a drop can add a refreshing fragrance and highlight the clean flavors of the fish. It is particularly valued when the sushi chef wants the citrus aroma to leave a memorable impression or to give a lighter, fresher finish to the sushi.
Conversely, using sudachi repeatedly in an omakase course can mask the flavors of the sushi toppings.
Kabosu, on the other hand, is chosen when the balance of flavors is more important than fragrance alone. Its gentle acidity and abundant juice make it suitable for richer or fattier fish, grilled items, or simmered dishes, where it softens heaviness and provides an elegant aftertaste.
The appearance of Kikabosu
Aged kabosu (Kikabosu), with its mellow and rounded aroma, is sometimes used to enhance the sophistication of high-end sushi. For example, a light drizzle of kabosu over sushi made with the mild-flavored pen shell (Tairagi) elevates the shellfish to a higher level. Sudachi or young kabosu, however, are too pungent and would merely serve as a simple accent.
In short, sushi chefs distinguish between the two by using sudachi when they want to highlight aroma and freshness, and kabosu when they wish to bring harmony and subtlety to the flavor.
The freezer compartment of a household freezer typically operates at -18°C. However, in practice, due to factors such as how often the door is opened and closed, the temperature often only reaches around -12°C. While this is cold enough to freeze water, it does not freeze the core of the food, so it may appear frozen at first glance. Proteins, enzymes, and lipids remain unfrozen, causing the taste and texture of the food to deteriorate significantly within a few weeks.
On the other hand, ultra-low temperature freezing can freeze all the components of fish meat, suppressing protein decomposition and stopping lipid oxidation. This makes it possible to store food for up to six months. All living organisms begin to age and deteriorate after death, eventually leading to oxidation and decay. The temperature that can stop this process is the world of ultra-low temperature freezing at -42°C.
Inhibition of enzymatic protein degradation
Under normal conditions, proteins that have ceased activity at room temperature undergo enzymatic degradation. For example, the proteins in freshly caught fish are in a high-molecular-weight state. Through enzymatic degradation, they break down into lower-molecular-weight compounds, advancing the aging process. If this process progresses too far, decay occurs.
Additionally, fish have a high water content of 70%, making them age much faster than livestock meat. Therefore, the key is to quickly cool the fish to ultra-low temperatures after catching them and then thaw them while maintaining the aging process.
Inhibition of fat oxidation
What is commonly referred to as “freezer burn” occurs when the fat naturally present in food rises to the surface and oxidizes, causing the color to turn yellowish and the appearance and taste to deteriorate. To prevent this, it is essential to prevent the food from coming into contact with air. Furthermore, by storing it in an ultra-low temperature environment, the oxidation process itself can be almost completely halted.
Inhibition of microbial proliferation
Even at the -18°C environment of a household freezer, microbial proliferation can be largely suppressed. However, for complete inhibition of all types of microbial growth, ultra-low temperatures are ideal.
Real-world applications
Ultra-low temperature freezing is already widely used in the seafood industry. At Tokyo’s Toyosu Market, premium tuna is stored and transported at -60°C to preserve its deep red color, fatty texture, and fresh taste for overseas shipments. In Hokkaido, Pacific saury is frozen at -50°C immediately after being caught on specialized vessels, allowing them to be enjoyed months later with near-fresh quality. Some Japanese supermarket chains use -45°C freezing for salmon fillets, enabling them to offer sashimi-grade products all year round while minimizing quality loss.
In sushi restaurants, anago (saltwater eel) is often purchased in bulk when prices are stable, stored at ultra-low temperatures, and thawed to maintain quality and cost efficiency. Likewise, ikura (salmon roe) is typically prepared in autumn, its peak season, and frozen for year-round use, ensuring consistent flavor and texture regardless of the season.
The fact that a 10,000-year-old mammoth excavated from Siberian permafrost was still edible after being cooked is a testament to the capabilities of ultra-low temperatures.
At first glance, Ikura and Sujiko look quite similar — both are salmon or trout roe — but they differ in preparation, flavor, texture, and how they are eaten. Here’s a closer look at their differences.
What is Ikura?
The word ikura comes from Russian, meaning “fish roe” or “small grains.” In Russia, it can refer to various types of roe, including caviar and cod roe. In Japan, however, ikura generally refers to salmon or trout roe, and in the fishing industry, it often means only salmon roe.
Ikura is made from mature salmon roe that is removed from the egg sac, separated into individual eggs through a mesh, and then seasoned — typically with salt or soy sauce. The grains are large, bursting in the mouth with a satisfying “pop,” releasing rich, buttery flavor. Because of its beautiful appearance and texture, ikura is commonly used for sushi, rice bowls, and various appetizers.
What is Sujiko?
Sujiko is made from immature (Not just before laying eggs) salmon roe that is salted while still wrapped in the membrane of the ovary. The eggs remain connected like a string (suji: 筋 in Japanese), which is where the name comes from. Since the eggs are less mature, the grains are smaller than those of ikura, and the texture is more dense and creamy.
There are two main ways to season sujiko:
Traditional salting (塩漬け) – The roe is salted to draw out umami, then salted again to finish the process. Freshness is critical; roe processed immediately after the fish is caught will be less salty and have better texture, while roe processed later will taste saltier and lose some texture.
Soy sauce marinating (醤油漬け) – A modern method that uses soy sauce which does not darken the roe, preserving its bright red color.
Historically, sujiko was considered a very salty preserved food and was thought to pair poorly with vinegared rice, so it was rarely used in sushi. However, with the rise of low-salt and soy sauce–marinated sujiko, it has started to appear in sushi and other creative dishes.
Texture – Ikura: bursts in the mouth / Sujiko: creamy and dense
Use – Ikura: sushi, donburi, appetizers / Sujiko: rice topping, onigiri, and now occasionally sushi
Both ikura and sujiko are symbols of autumn in Japan. Knowing the differences will help you appreciate their unique qualities — and choose the perfect roe for your meal.
