Edomaesushi | Sushiblog－Sushiuniversity

What is “Hagashi”?

There is a part on the tuna belly called “Sunazuri (gizzards)” or “Zuri” . Normally “Jabara,” with the diagonal white lines is the king of tuna, but the fatty tuna is spoiled if the white lines are left in your mouth. Also, on the dorsal side there is a part that produces chutoro called wakaremi.

A photo of Maguro hagashi nigiri — The appearance of Maguro hagashi nigiri

This part is also complex with hard, white lines throughout that we want to avoid eating. Instead, the knife cuts along those lines, gently removing the fish meat from them, making “Hagashi.” If the chef is not skilled, this cut will take time and extra meat is left behind. This is delicate work, making for a delicious and satisfying experience.

Related contents: TYPES OF TUNA

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Revision date: August 24, 2024

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Does the taste of wasabi differ depending on the grater?!

Sushi restaurants use two types of tools for grating wasabi. One is a metal grater, and the other is called “samegawa” (shark skin), which consists of shark skin attached to a wooden base.

Using a material as fine as shark skin allows the aroma to first escape through the nasal passages, resulting in a taste that is initially sweet and gradually becomes spicier. This process breaks down the wasabi cells, creating a grated wasabi with high viscosity and rich flavor.

On the other hand, the metal grater has a coarser surface compared to the shark skin grater, resulting in grated wasabi with lower viscosity and a grainy texture. However, the shape of the surface protrusions varies, so this is merely a general rule.

Additionally, copper graters used by sushi chefs have antibacterial properties, making them safe for handling ingredients. Using a copper grater allows you to grate wasabi without crushing the fibers, resulting in a light and fluffy texture.

Finally, an interesting point is that the taste of the wasabi even changes depending on whether it is turned clockwise or counter-clockwise while grating. Of course, this depends on the orientation of the protrusions on the grater surface and is not related to the type of grater.

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Revision date: June 3, 2025

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Strong belief that fish is only about freshness

In some cases, the strong belief that fish is only about freshness, may prevent you from tasting the true value of the fish. For example, slicing up a fish that was just swimming, in front of the customer. The umami flavor is weak at first so while the texture is tough (a unique, crunchy feeling), the flavor is lacking. But the idea that freshness is equivalent to deliciousness continues still. This is a typical case of faith in freshness overtaking the actual taste.

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Revision date: April 16, 2018

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What is the difference between the taste of marbled and lined fatty tuna?

It is often said that when you eat Otoro, it melts in your mouth like a snowflake. With its smooth texture and rich flavor, it is enormously popular. Otoro is located on the belly side near the head and can be divided into two types.

A photo of otoro shimofuri — The appearance of Otoro shimofuri

Marbled tuna (Shimofuri) is the part in which it looks like the fat has fallen like a frost and melts like snow on your tongue then leaving only the umami taste. By cutting thinly and widely at an angle to the saku, a delicate flavor and aroma are produced.

A photo of Otoro jabara — The appearance of Otoro Jabara

The lined fatty tuna (Jabara) is the part that has white fat lines running through it. When you first take a bite, surge of aroma and umami flavor fills your mouth. After that, the potent fatty umami fills your mouth. Cut the Jabara into thick, slightly shorter pieces and make nigiri sushi.

The way the fat melts in your mouth differs between Jabara and Shimofuri, so which you like better depends on preference.

A photo of otoro aburi — The appearance of Otoro aburi

Some people find the fat in Otoro to be too rich. By searing it, the excess fat is removed and the moisture is evaporated, so the umami components are concentrated, and adding a savory aroma enhances the flavor.

Related contents: TYPES OF TUNA

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Revision date: October 5, 2024

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Can’t-miss Tokyo sushi toppings (Meji Maguro)

Meji Maguro (AKA: Meji) caught in fixed net fishing is one type of sushi topping that you really should try. Meji is the larval fish of Pacific bluefin tuna, made and served at expensive restaurants, but not usually available as Edo-style sushi. Its fat is lighter and it doesn’t have the impact that fatty tuna has. Efforts are put into seasoning to avoid this. Using a pinch of ginger, Japanese basil or onion between the topping and rice, along with the wasabi, really brings out the fresh flavor of the young fish as well as the sweetness of this fatty part.

Related contents: TYPES OF TUNA

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Revision date: March 26, 2018

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Why doesn’t rice stick to the sushi chef’s hands?

A photo of shaping nigiri sushi — Sushi chef is making nigiri sushi.

One of the pleasures of sitting at a sushi counter is watching the sushi master work his craft.

He holds the topping between the index finger and thumb of his left hand while simultaneously grabbing the shari (vinegared rice) with his left hand. He gently squeezes the shari and then moves the topping from his left hand to the top of that shari in a fluid motion. This entire process of shaping the shari to the finished piece of sushi takes less than six seconds. Every movement is precise and purposeful.

However, no matter how many pieces the chef makes one after another, you’ll never see a grain of rice stick to his hands. If you or I were to make even one piece of sushi, our hands would be covered in rice. So why doesn’t it happen to them? Their hands don’t look oiled. Perhaps sushi chefs have especially smooth or slick hands compared to us average Joes?

Of course not. This is actually thanks to the vinegar.

The chefs keep a bowl of vinegar close by, which they constantly use to wet their hands. If the sushi chef’s hands are dry, the rice grains tend to stick to them, so the rice needs to be moistened just enough.

This is called “Tezu” or vinegared water, which both disinfects the hands and cools their palms. When the vinegar evaporates, it takes the heat from the hands with it.

Normally hands reach temperatures of 33-34 degrees Celsius (91-93 degrees Fahrenheit), but sushi chefs cool their hands to approximately 30 degrees Celsius (86 F). This transfers the heat from the hands to the shari, keeping it from getting sticky. In other words, not a single grain of rice sticks to their hands.

Also, the stickiness of rice is mainly caused by starch (especially amylopectin) gelatinizing with water and heat, but vinegar contains acetic acid, which acidifies the pH, so under these conditions, the structure of the starch changes slightly, inhibiting the formation of stickiness (the sticky component).

Additionally, vinegared rice becomes sticky if there is too much moisture, and conversely, if there is too little moisture, it becomes dry and difficult to shape. Therefore, the moisture content and temperature are carefully adjusted to achieve the perfect balance.

In short, it’s not magic or special skin — it’s the calculated use of vinegar, moisture, and temperature control that keeps sushi chefs’ hands rice-free.

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Revision date: June 16, 2025

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Why is freshly-caught fish allowed to age?

The most delicious time to eat fish differs depending on if it is served as sashimi, as sushi, or boiled. Fresh does not necessarily mean delicious. For example, Japanese Amberjack should be used in sashimi 3-5 days after being caught, in sushi a week after being caught and it can be used in a stew or boiled once it turns black around the edges. This is because the inosine acid, which is responsible for the umami taste, increases after rigor mortis ends and understanding the timing of the peak in flavor is up to the skill of the sushi chef.

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Revision date: March 12, 2018

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Why does the bill more when ordering sashimi at a prestigious restaurant?

Thicker cuts of fish are used for sashimi than for sushi. Depending on the restaurant, the equivalent of three pieces of sushi may be used in one cut of sashimi. In other words, two pieces of sashimi is the same as six pieces of sushi. At a restaurant where one piece of medium fatty tuna sushi is priced at JPY 1000, simple arithmetic prices medium fatty tuna sashimi at JPY 6000. Just a small order of assorted sashimi often costs more than JPY 10,000. Be careful.

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Revision date: March 5, 2018

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Why are two pieces of nigiri sushi made at once?

Have you ordered Nigiri sushi and been served two pieces on one plate?

A photo of Conveyor belt sushi — One plate has two pieces of nigiri sushi.

This isn’t something that happens at a conveyor belt sushi restaurant. It can happen at a sushi restaurant with a counter.

There are multiple theories as to the reason for this, but the most likely one is as follows.

The reason sushi is served in sets of two pieces is that this practice is left over from long ago (the Edo period), when pieces of sushi were made large, like onigiri, and difficult to eat. At some point (it’s unclear when), these were just cut in half, making two pieces that led to what we see today (there are multiple theories about when this happened).

However nowadays, if you were to eat two pieces of each topping, you won’t be able to enjoy as many different kinds, so customers sitting at the counter are served only one piece at a time. So then why do other restaurants continue to prepare two pieces at once? This may be in order to improve the efficiency of the sushi chef’s work. Also, regular customers may see toppings others are ordering and ask for the same one. This helps reduce the workload of the sushi chef.

But there are also some toppings that are better to eat in pairs.

For example, conger eel tastes completely different when one piece is eaten with salt and the other seasoned with sweet sauce. Serving the part of the eel closer to the head skin-up and the part closer to the tail belly-up also offers different textures; skin-up offers a smooth texture while belly-up offers a fluffy texture. In addition, the head and tail simply taste differently. Since the back and belly of fish like bonito and mackerel have different fat content, it can be better to order two pieces at a time in order to fully experience each of the individual qualities of the fish.

The sushi chefs at your favorite restaurant know your preferences well. Depending on the type of fish, they may serve you two pieces of the back side, which has a more fishy flavor, without saying anything.

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Revision date: May 29, 2025

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Why don’t I notice the fishy smell in sushi restaurants?

Many overseas visitors who are not accustomed to eating fish often find the fishy smell off-putting. This odor is mainly caused by a compound called trimethylamine, which forms when bacteria break down trimethylamine oxide, a substance abundant in fish that contributes to umami flavor. As time passes, ammonia is also generated, further intensifying the odor.

Trimethylamine begins to form after the fish dies. Therefore, the key to minimizing this smell is to process the fish as soon as possible after it is caught. Removing the slimy coating on the skin, as well as any decaying internal organs or blood, also helps reduce odor. It is essential to rinse the fish with water.

After cleaning, the fish is typically lightly salted and refrigerated. After some time, the salt is rinsed off using saltwater with a salinity of about 3%, similar to that of seawater. This step is crucial because rinsing with fresh water would cause the fish to reabsorb moisture through osmosis, making the previous dehydration process ineffective and leaving the fish with a watery texture.

Bacterial growth is further suppressed by refrigeration, which is why sushi toppings are kept cold. Additionally, since trimethylamine is alkaline, it can be neutralized by vinegar, which is acidic. Soaking fish in vinegar not only helps eliminate odor but also reduces surface bacteria.

In short, sushi restaurants take meticulous steps to prevent bacterial growth and eliminate fishy smells, ensuring that customers enjoy fresh, clean-tasting sushi.

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Revision date: June 10, 2025

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Is sushi eaten with your hands? Or should you use chopsticks?

A photo of Edo-period nigiri sushi — This is Edo-period nigiri sushi, similar in size to onigiri.

During the Edo period in Japan, nigiri sushi became extremely popular and was sold at street stalls (yatai). It was similar to what we now call onigiri, eaten by hand. The term “onigiri” was used because the nigiri sushi of that time was about two to three times larger than today’s version. After finishing their meal, customers are said to have wiped their hands on the stall’s curtain (noren). As an aside, historical records describe Edo as a rather unsanitary city at the time, and this practice serves as evidence of that.

a photo of hand-washing devices (groove) — This is hand-washing devices (groove).

Later, in the 1950s, sushi restaurants began installing hand-washing devices (grooves) on the customer side of the counter. Instead of using hand towels, customers would wash their hands in the water and moisten their fingers before eating sushi. Some traditional sushi restaurants in rural areas still have these grooves today.

A photo of uni nigiri sushi — Recently, some high-end sushi restaurants have started serving nigiri sushi directly from the sushi chef.

Recently, some high-end sushi restaurants have started serving nigiri sushi directly from the sushi chef. This is particularly common with delicate ingredients like uni, which are prone to falling apart. In this case, customers are forced to eat nigiri sushi with their hands.

In the old days, Sushi was originally a food eaten with your hands.

a photo of Yubifuki — Yubifuki refers to cloths or gauze provided mainly at sushi restaurants for customers to keep their fingertips clean while eating sushi.

Even, for example, if you are in a prestigious sushi restaurant in Ginza, you can still eat with your hands. You can actually use your hands to eat the ginger (gari) too (Some guidebooks state that gari should be eaten with chopsticks, but no sushi chefs would ever say such a thing). Restaurants that prefer you to eat with your hands will provide an extra, smaller towel called yubifuki for cleaning your hands between sushi, along with the normal hand towel (Oshibori towel). Even then, feel free to use chopsticks if you prefer.

Anyway, using chopsticks for the first time can be challenging, but don’t worry – here is the ultimate guide to becoming an expert at picking up your favorite sushi without damaging it. You’ll learn how to use chopsticks like a pro.

Follow these simple steps to use chopsticks like an expert:

Hold the chopsticks by their thickest end.
Place the chopstick on the lower end of your hand in the gap between your thumb and index finger.
The chopstick on the top goes on the fingerprint of the thumb and index finger.
To pick each piece of sushi, move the upper stick with the help of your thumb, index, and middle fingers.

Follow the steps above and soon, you’ll be the one teaching your friends! Now you know how to pick up nigiri sushi with chopsticks!

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Revision date: June 17, 2025

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Why is sushi with tuna topping so expensive?

A purchase of raw tuna costs at least JPY 30,000 per kilogram. Furthermore, good tuna is judged not only by taste, but appearance is also highly regarded.

The surface is gradually oxidized by letting it sleep (mature) and the sushi chef makes sure that parts are cut of as they change color, when the timing is perfect for both the taste and appearance. In other words, skin is taken from the freshly purchased tuna, the meat of the fish darkened by blood (the blackened area that can’t be used as sushi toppings) is removed, the parts that have changed color are shaved off and then only the remaining, best parts used as toppings are left.

This is why the price is high.

Related contents: TYPES OF TUNA

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Revision date: February 5, 2018

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Prior to WWII, there were chefs whose only job was making vinegar rice!

From the end of the Edo period through the Meiji period, rice was cooked using firewood and a pot. It is not easy to get the fire at the right temperature and the rice has to be cooked to the same texture regardless of where it came from or the size of the grains, so at the time the task required a skilled chef. Therefore, there were “Shari-ya” employed by sushi restaurants who specialized in cooking rice. “Shari-ya” focused on this single task and were not involved in the actual making of the sushi after the rice was passed on to the chefs.

Some notes on chopstick manners

There are manners in using chopsticks that tourists may be unaware of. We would like to introduce some of those here.

First of all, it is impolite to place chopsticks on your dish in the middle of a meal. Make sure to place them back on the chopstick stand when you aren’t using them.

It is also poor manners to stab food with chopsticks (Sashi-bashi) and or to use chopsticks to look through dishes. Please avoid breaking up the beautifully arranged dishes when you eat.

The improper use of chopsticks

1. Passing foods (Hiroi-bashi or Awase-bashi): Never use your chopsticks to take something from someone else’s chopsticks. This way of passing things relates to Japanese funerary customs (Kotsuage).

2. Drawing plates or bowls near you (Saguri-bashi): Don’t draw a plate or bowl toward you with chopsticks.

3. Touching foods unnecessarily (Utsuri-bashi): Don’t touch foods with chopsticks unnecessarily without eating them.

4. Scooping: Don’t scoop up food by using chopsticks like a spoon and bring them to your mouth.

5. Shoveling food into the mouth (Komi-bashi): Don’t put your lips on a plate or bowl and shovel food into your mouth with chopsticks.

6. Picking up plates or bowls while holding chopsticks (Nigiri-bashi): Don’t pick up a plate or bowl while holding chopsticks.

7. Pointing at someone (Sashi-bashi): Don’t point at someone with chopsticks.

8. Laying chopsticks across a plate or bowl: Don’t lay chopsticks across a plate or bowl.

9. They stuff their mouth full of food and push it in with chopsticks (Oshikomi-bashi).

10. Lick the chopstick tips (Neburi-bashi).

11. Hold it with chopsticks while dripping the cooking juices (Namida-bashi).

12. Eating the same food over and over again (Kasane-bashi).

Related contents: SUSHI RESTAURANT ETIQUETTE

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Revision date: March 1, 2024

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Tuna was not a premium fish during the Edo period!?

A painting depicting the large tuna catch during the Edo period

After the Kamakura period, it was said that “the sound of the voice calling “shibi” sounds like the day of death, which is ominous,” and when power was passed to the samurai, the word “shibi” became associated with “day of death,” and if a tuna lost its life in battle, it was avoided by the samurai as a good luck charm.

Tuna was mainly caught off the coast of Choshi, and was transported to Edo by boat, then placed on a cart and transported through the city of Edo, hidden by straw mats and covered with water. Tuna is large, and the fact that they looked exactly like Dozaemon, who had been drowned, was one of the reasons they were disliked. The fat in particular spoiled quickly, falling apart, and had a strong odor.

At this time there was no ice, so tuna had to be salted. It was cut into blocks, salt was spread all over and in it, and that was it. At Uogashi (the market before Tsukiji), it was treated at shops that specialized in salting fish. The dark, discolored, salty chunks of flesh really were nothing but “Gezakana”.

Gezakana －Relatively low-cost sushi ingredients, such as gizzard shad and horse mackerel. Bluefin tuna used to be also called gezakana in the Edo period, for losing its freshness easily.

This is why they were treated as a lower-class fish, but something changed around 1804-1818. At that time, soy sauce was widely used in the Kanto region, especially in Choshi, so a preservation technique was devised in which fillets of tuna were marinated in salty soy sauce and delivered safely while still raw. Needless to say, this is what we call today’s Zuke. This encounter with soy sauce helped to popularize tuna in the Edo period.

Tuna is originally caught in the open sea. However, due to some tidal current or abnormal weather, an incident occurred where large numbers of tuna were caught in nearby waters. This happened in 1832. It is said that as many as 10,000 were caught in one day. Because so many were caught, it spread, and Edo city was overflowing with tuna. Fresher tuna began arriving in Edo than before.

Around 1810, a new type of sushi was invented in Edo by Hanaya Yohei, in which fish fillets were sold on vinegared rice. Unlike traditional sushi that is fermented (such as narezushi), Kohei’s sushi is made by placing fish meat marinated in soy sauce on top of vinegared rice.

This fast-serving style marked the birth of modern edomae sushi and helped elevate tuna from gezakana to a prized topping in Japanese cuisine.

Related contents: TYPES OF TUNA

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Revision date: June 17, 2025

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