You can determine how good a sushi restaurant is just by glancing at the topping box (neta-bako). The toppings should all be bright and shiny. This seafood was selected that very morning throughout Tsukiji Fish Market. Even when marinating in vinegar, it’s clear how lively and fresh the fish is.
Every single good sushi restaurant is small. The maximum counter space for a single sushi master to keep up with each customer is 10 seats. These excellent restaurants also have a number of regular customers and almost seem like an exclusive club.
The master conditions his customers to enjoy the toppings that he believes to be the best and the customers train the master into making the dishes they like. After all, making sushi may be a single profession, but it is a relative business and it takes time to build this deep understanding between the chef and customers.
Good sushi chefs do not play favorites to their regular customers. Good regular sushi customers are well-mannered and don’t make an unpleasant atmosphere for first-time customers. Both the chefs and customers are educated in this way. There is this sense of pure pressure in the restaurant.
Good sushi restaurants close their doors early. They need to get to Tsukiji Fish market first think in the morning. This means they need to get to bed by midnight. So the regular customers at these restaurants get up to leave when closing time rolls around. Somewhere along the way they’ve been trained to do this.
Meji is less than 1 year old and weighs around 20 kg.
The bluefin tuna goes by different names in Japanese depending on its age. It starts out as “Meji (メジ or メジマグロ),” grows into “Chubou (中坊)” and finally is called Maguro or Shibi (once it’s 50 kg or more).
Meji is less than 1 year old and weighs around 20 kg. The term “Meji” is primarily used in the Kanto region. In the Kansai region, it is called “Yokowa (ヨコワ).” Bluefin tuna have ring-like spots on their sides during their juvenile stage, which disappear as they mature. The regional name for the juvenile stage, “Yokowa” (where “Yoko” means “side” and ‘wa’ means “ring”), derives from these spots.
Chubou is an old word for relatively low-class Buddhist priests who were treated as errand boys. I guess it was meant to imply that these boys were even weaker than tuna. At this stage, the fish are between 2-5 years old and weigh about 40kg.
Anything larger than that is called Maguro. The biggest is 3m long and 600kg or more. Especially large tuna is called Shibi. “Shibi” comes from the Japanese characters for “4-days”, which is how long the fish takes to mature.
From late November, Meji fixed net fishing begins in Himi and Sado in the Hokuriku region. Similarly, fishing starts in Shiogama and Kamaishi in the Sanriku rerion, with the peak season for Meji fishing occurring from December to February. In early summer, Chubou begins to be caught off the Sanriku coast, reaching its peak season from May to July. This spring’s tuna schools migrate through the Boso Peninsula and cross the Pacific Ocean. The juvenile bluefin tuna fishing season from spring to early summer comes to an end.
Meji has a unique scent and taste that sets it apart from full-grown tuna. The color is similar to the skipjack rather than bluefin. On the other hand, Chubou has a lighter color and it isn’t as rich, but the flavor is young, refreshing tuna. That is why Meji is considered to be a completely separate sushi topping and Chubou is presented to be a type of tuna.
It is called Edomae sushi, so the most appropriate place to eat it is Tokyo, formerly known as Edo. The skills of chefs raised in this long history of sushi. The best fishery products in Japan — no, in the world, are all found at Toyosu Market. There is no question that combined with the veteran sushi experts, Tokyo is the battleground for sushi restaurants and where you’ll find the most prestigious locations like Ginza, Nishi azabu etc.
Seafood product buyers tend to believe that the products they are purchasing are as described by the sellers. But, that isn’t always the case. Seafood products are sometimes intentionally labeled incorrectly for profit.
This is seafood fraud. Fraudulent actions like this threaten the safety of the food. From the FDA’s “Report on Seafood Fraud”
70% of seafood consumed in the US is eaten at restaurants. The products served at restaurants are generally lower quality than those sold in retail outlets and the sushi is especially appalling. Unless visiting a top-class sushi restaurant (where the prices are, of course, high), you can usually expect to be served the worst of the worst.
There isn’t much a consumer can do about this, but at the very least you can educate yourself on types of fish that are often substituted. If you were to order White Tuna or Red Snapper, you would very likely be served something else. Any shrimp ordered was probably farmed.
There are no laws regulating “Fresh” or “Organic” labels so don’t be fooled by these. In the same way, be suspicious when you see word combinations like “Great Sushi” or “Great Sashimi.” There is no such thing as “Great” in this sense. By Larry Olmsted, a print columnist for two of America’s three national newspapers, Investor’s Business Daily and USAToday
The sushi chef is trying to take the vinegared rice from the rice tab.
Shari — vinegared rice used for making sushi — is typically kept in a wooden rice tub (known as a hangiri) and placed within easy reach of the sushi chef’s dominant hand. With a swift and practiced motion, a skilled sushi chef scoops out just the right amount of rice — often several hundred grains — to shape a uniform shari dama (vinegared rice ball) for a single piece of sushi.
The appearance of shari dama
It is said that experienced chefs can do this with a margin of error of only a few grains, thanks to years of rigorous training and muscle memory.
However, not all chefs have reached this level of precision. Some may inadvertently take too much rice, only to pinch off the excess and return it to the rice tub. This practice is called “suteshari” (捨てシャリ) — literally, “discarded rice.” Despite the name, the rice is often not truly discarded but rather returned to the communal tub, which can be a source of concern both in terms of hygiene and professionalism.
We estimate that more than half of sushi chefs engage in this practice, especially when they find it difficult to judge the proper proportion of shari to complement a topping (neta) before the piece is assembled.
While some may view it as a minor adjustment, seasoned sushi connoisseurs see suteshari as a telltale sign of insufficient training or inattentiveness. Movements behind the counter are closely observed.
From a sanitary standpoint, suteshari presents another issue: when sushi is made in high volume, residual rice that has absorbed moisture or fish juices from discarded portions may accumulate at the bottom of the tub, compromising cleanliness and potentially affecting the flavor of subsequent pieces.
The sushi chef is shaping the shari dama.
That said, suteshari is not entirely taboo. When sushi is served in a shared presentation on a platter (moriawase), visual uniformity is essential. However, when served omakase-style as individual pieces directly to the guest, uniformity is not required.
Even Jiro Ono, the revered sushi master of Sukiyabashi Jiro in Ginza — once awarded three Michelin stars for 12 consecutive years — has occasionally been seen discarding rice to fine-tune his nigiri. (The restaurant is no longer listed in the Michelin Guide due to its exclusive reservation policy.)
In the end, suteshari is a nuanced gesture — neither wholly negative nor praiseworthy — but rather a window into the discipline, training, and philosophy of the chef behind the counter.
Sushi restaurants use two types of tools for grating wasabi. One is a metal grater, and the other is called “samegawa” (shark skin), which consists of shark skin attached to a wooden base.
Using a material as fine as shark skin allows the aroma to first escape through the nasal passages, resulting in a taste that is initially sweet and gradually becomes spicier. This process breaks down the wasabi cells, creating a grated wasabi with high viscosity and rich flavor.
On the other hand, the metal grater has a coarser surface compared to the shark skin grater, resulting in grated wasabi with lower viscosity and a grainy texture. However, the shape of the surface protrusions varies, so this is merely a general rule.
Additionally, copper graters used by sushi chefs have antibacterial properties, making them safe for handling ingredients. Using a copper grater allows you to grate wasabi without crushing the fibers, resulting in a light and fluffy texture.
Finally, an interesting point is that the taste of thewasabieven changes depending on whether it is turned clockwise or counter-clockwise while grating. Of course, this depends on the orientation of the protrusions on the grater surface and is not related to the type of grater.
One of the pleasures of sitting at a sushi counter is watching the sushi master work his craft.
He holds the topping between the index finger and thumb of his left hand while simultaneously grabbing the shari (vinegared rice) with his left hand. He gently squeezes the shari and then moves the topping from his left hand to the top of that shari in a fluid motion. This entire process of shaping the shari to the finished piece of sushi takes less than six seconds. Every movement is precise and purposeful.
However, no matter how many pieces the chef makes one after another, you’ll never see a grain of rice stick to his hands. If you or I were to make even one piece of sushi, our hands would be covered in rice. So why doesn’t it happen to them? Their hands don’t look oiled. Perhaps sushi chefs have especially smooth or slick hands compared to us average Joes?
Of course not. This is actually thanks to the vinegar.
The chefs keep a bowl of vinegar close by, which they constantly use to wet their hands. If the sushi chef’s hands are dry, the rice grains tend to stick to them, so the rice needs to be moistened just enough.
This is called “Tezu” or vinegared water, which both disinfects the hands and cools their palms. When the vinegar evaporates, it takes the heat from the hands with it.
Normally hands reach temperatures of 33-34 degrees Celsius (91-93 degrees Fahrenheit), but sushi chefs cool their hands to approximately 30 degrees Celsius (86 F). This transfers the heat from the hands to the shari, keeping it from getting sticky. In other words, not a single grain of rice sticks to their hands.
Also, the stickiness of rice is mainly caused by starch (especially amylopectin) gelatinizing with water and heat, but vinegar contains acetic acid, which acidifies the pH, so under these conditions, the structure of the starch changes slightly, inhibiting the formation of stickiness (the sticky component).
Additionally, vinegared rice becomes sticky if there is too much moisture, and conversely, if there is too little moisture, it becomes dry and difficult to shape. Therefore, the moisture content and temperature are carefully adjusted to achieve the perfect balance.
In short, it’s not magic or special skin — it’s the calculated use of vinegar, moisture, and temperature control that keeps sushi chefs’ hands rice-free.
Thicker cuts of fish are used for sashimi than for sushi. Depending on the restaurant, the equivalent of three pieces of sushi may be used in one cut of sashimi. In other words, two pieces of sashimi is the same as six pieces of sushi. At a restaurant where one piece of medium fatty tuna sushi is priced at JPY 1000, simple arithmetic prices medium fatty tuna sashimi at JPY 6000. Just a small order of assorted sashimi often costs more than JPY 10,000. Be careful.
Have you ordered Nigiri sushi and been served two pieces on one plate?
One plate has two pieces of nigiri sushi.
This isn’t something that happens at a conveyor belt sushi restaurant. It can happen at a sushi restaurant with a counter.
There are multiple theories as to the reason for this, but the most likely one is as follows.
The reason sushi is served in sets of two pieces is that this practice is left over from long ago (the Edo period), when pieces of sushi were made large, like onigiri, and difficult to eat. At some point (it’s unclear when), these were just cut in half, making two pieces that led to what we see today (there are multiple theories about when this happened).
However nowadays, if you were to eat two pieces of each topping, you won’t be able to enjoy as many different kinds, so customers sitting at the counter are served only one piece at a time. So then why do other restaurants continue to prepare two pieces at once? This may be in order to improve the efficiency of the sushi chef’s work. Also, regular customers may see toppings others are ordering and ask for the same one. This helps reduce the workload of the sushi chef.
But there are also some toppings that are better to eat in pairs.
For example, conger eel tastes completely different when one piece is eaten with salt and the other seasoned with sweet sauce. Serving the part of the eel closer to the head skin-up and the part closer to the tail belly-up also offers different textures; skin-up offers a smooth texture while belly-up offers a fluffy texture. In addition, the head and tail simply taste differently. Since the back and belly of fish like bonito and mackerel have different fat content, it can be better to order two pieces at a time in order to fully experience each of the individual qualities of the fish.
The sushi chefs at your favorite restaurant know your preferences well. Depending on the type of fish, they may serve you two pieces of the back side, which has a more fishy flavor, without saying anything.
From the end of the Edo period through the Meiji period, rice was cooked using firewood and a pot. It is not easy to get the fire at the right temperature and the rice has to be cooked to the same texture regardless of where it came from or the size of the grains, so at the time the task required a skilled chef. Therefore, there were “Shari-ya” employed by sushi restaurants who specialized in cooking rice. “Shari-ya” focused on this single task and were not involved in the actual making of the sushi after the rice was passed on to the chefs.
A painting depicting the large tuna catch during the Edo period
After the Kamakura period, it was said that “the sound of the voice calling “shibi” sounds like the day of death, which is ominous,” and when power was passed to the samurai, the word “shibi” became associated with “day of death,” and if a tuna lost its life in battle, it was avoided by the samurai as a good luck charm.
Tuna was mainly caught off the coast of Choshi, and was transported to Edo by boat, then placed on a cart and transported through the city of Edo, hidden by straw mats and covered with water. Tuna is large, and the fact that they looked exactly like Dozaemon, who had been drowned, was one of the reasons they were disliked. The fat in particular spoiled quickly, falling apart, and had a strong odor.
At this time there was no ice, so tuna had to be salted. It was cut into blocks, salt was spread all over and in it, and that was it. At Uogashi (the market before Tsukiji), it was treated at shops that specialized in salting fish. The dark, discolored, salty chunks of flesh really were nothing but “Gezakana”.
Gezakana -Relatively low-cost sushi ingredients, such as gizzard shad and horse mackerel. Bluefin tuna used to be also called gezakana in the Edo period, for losing its freshness easily.
This is why they were treated as a lower-class fish, but something changed around 1804-1818. At that time, soy sauce was widely used in the Kanto region, especially in Choshi, so a preservation technique was devised in which fillets of tuna were marinated in salty soy sauce and delivered safely while still raw. Needless to say, this is what we call today’s Zuke. This encounter with soy sauce helped to popularize tuna in the Edo period.
Tuna is originally caught in the open sea. However, due to some tidal current or abnormal weather, an incident occurred where large numbers of tuna were caught in nearby waters. This happened in 1832. It is said that as many as 10,000 were caught in one day. Because so many were caught, it spread, and Edo city was overflowing with tuna. Fresher tuna began arriving in Edo than before.
Around 1810, a new type of sushi was invented in Edo by Hanaya Yohei, in which fish fillets were sold on vinegared rice. Unlike traditional sushi that is fermented (such as narezushi), Kohei’s sushi is made by placing fish meat marinated in soy sauce on top of vinegared rice.
This fast-serving style marked the birth of modern edomae sushi and helped elevate tuna from gezakana to a prized topping in Japanese cuisine.
The balance between Shari (vinegar rice) and the topping is important in sushi. No matter how good the topping, the sushi won’t be good if the Shari isn’t right for it. More restaurants have been using red vinegar lately, but even if you use a Shari with a strong taste like red vinegar, the balance will be destroyed if the topping has a weaker flavor. Seasoning that goes well with various toppings that doesn’t stand out too much is ideal.
It works the other way, too. If the Shari is too weak, the sushi won’t be delicious no matter how good the topping. Even if the topping is not premium quality, if the Shari is matched perfectly, the sushi will be perfect. In other words, a good sushi chef is someone who can make sushi with perfectly matching toppings and Shari.
Ginger is used for toppings with a strong, distinct taste and strong fishy smell such as bonito, horse mackerel and sardines. Ginger has the effect of eliminating odors, but be careful not to use too much, as the flavor of the seasoning may overpower the natural taste of the fish. It should be used solely to enhance the umami of the fish.
Additionally, ginger contains components such as “gingerol” and “shogaol,” which have strong antibacterial properties. These components are known to be effective against foodborne pathogens like O-157 and parasites such as anisakis.
Wasabi has a spicy taste and stimulates the senses of taste and smell and works to dull the senses so the fishy smell is not felt, but ginger is effective in actually extinguishing the fishy smell.
Because the effect of wasabi is transient and difficult to sustain, it is not a good match for fish with a peculiar odor in some respects. For this reason, it is often used with white fish that have a lighter flavor.
If you visit a high-end sushi restaurant, such as one that places piles of salt by the entrance for good fortune, you’ll notice there are no price displays.
There’s not even a menu for nigiri sushi. All you find is a slab of wood hanging down the wall with names of the daily offerings such as Japanese conger (anago) or Gizzard shad (kohada).
Here, customers do not get angry and say, “I can’t order anything because I don’t know the prices.” First time customers may not know the market price and worry about payment, resolving to pay with a credit card if they don’t have enough cash in their wallet.
It’s as if modern sushi restaurant customers have come to accept the absence of price listings as a long-standing tradition. But actually, beforeWorld War II, sushi restaurants displayed wooden boards with prices written on them, such as “Tuna belly: 2,000 yen.” It was during the 1960s that they stopped displaying prices.
The 60s was the start of an era of high-growth in Japan. Prices were rising rapidly and sushi prices also went up drastically. At the same time, the business practice of entertaining clients was gaining popularity, and the customer base of high-end sushi restaurants shifted from individual diners to business clients.
In such a situation, if a sign displayed “Chutoro: 3,000 yen,” the guests being entertained would find it difficult to order their favorite items. They would end up calculating the total cost and couldn’t order as many pieces as they wanted. As you can see, this practice of not displaying prices at sushi restaurants was in consideration for the business customers who were entertaining clients, as well as those being entertained as clients.
In high-end sushi restaurants, it is sometimes considered proper etiquette not to say or ask anything that might be seen as tactless (busui). This reflects a uniquely Japanese sense of aesthetics, also found in traditional arts like tea ceremony, where the underlying philosophy is to express sincerity and consideration through form and ritual.
Along with this, the “omakase” system, where customers order by saying, “Master, please select and serve nigiri sushi,” was also born. This allows the host, who has already communicated the budget in advance, to focus on the reception without worrying about payment.
It is true that in an age when aquatic resources are being depleted, there is a worldwide demand for a substitute for luxurious fish. However, since it is impossible to distinguish between them when they are cut into pieces, we cannot allow them to do whatever they want.
Global food fraud involving seafood can be classified into the following four patterns. Examples of each are provided below.
1. Fish species mislabeling:
According to an article on DNA testing conducted within the EU in May 2024, samples from approximately 300 restaurants, including those in Brussels, were tested. Despite being labeled as tuna, the survey reported widespread contamination and mislabeling of 15 species, with the species of 15% remaining unidentified.
2. Origin mislabeling:
According to a report published by SeaD Consulting in December 2024, it was revealed that 4 out of 5 shrimp labeled as “Gulf Shrimp” served at the National Shrimp Festival, a national event in Alabama, were actually imported (primarily farmed shrimp from China and Argentina).
3. Farm-raised vs. wild mislabeling:
DNA analysis was conducted on approximately 120 salmon products sold at supermarkets and sushi restaurants around Seattle (2022–2023). The results showed that 18% were mislabeled. Specifically, 32.3% of salmon sold at sushi restaurants were farm-raised but labeled as “wild-caught.”
4. Concealment of chemicals and preservation methods:
In December 2024, the RASFF (Rapid Alert System for Food and Feed) reported that carbon monoxide was detected in multiple tuna products originating from Belgium. In the United States, the FDA has approved CO treatment as a “GRAS” (Generally Recognized as Safe) substance.However, it is banned in many countries, including the EU, Japan, and Canada. In the U.S., “vitamin tuna” (tuna treated for color improvement) is reported to account for up to 60% of the market.
Below are some examples of practices that have been carried out in Japan for many years.
First of all, Opah belly meat with some fat is used for the tuna in Negi-toro (tuna minced with Welsh onion leaves). Opah is widely distributed in warm seas and it’s known to be inexpensive with a smooth taste. The price is less than 1/100 of the Pacific bluefin tuna and if possible Negi-toro made from Opah should be avoided.
Next let’s discuss Japanese conger, an essential Edo-style sushi topping. A substitute for Japanese conger is the Common snake eel, which is a type of sea snake from Peru. The taste is pretty good, but the skin is rubbery and it doesn’t stick to the Shari (vinegar rice) so it’s instantly apparent that it’s a substitute fish. If you find Japanese conger at kaiten-zushi for JPY 100 per plate, you might want to question the source.
A premium sushi topping is the Mirugai clam (also called Hon-miru). This shellfish is characterized by its unique texture and taste. Instead the Japanese geoduck (Shiro-miru) is used, which sells for half the market price. However, the taste of the two is so similar that even Sushi Tsu has mistaken them, which is great news for dishonest dealers.
In April 2015 the Food Labeling Act was revised in Japan, leading to progressive reduction of fraudulent labels, but it is not a solution that eradicates dishonest dealers so consumers need to be educated and aware.
To effectively combat food fraud, regulatory bodies must enforce strict labeling laws and conduct scientific inspections, businesses must maintain transparent traceability and obtain trusted certifications, and consumers must remain vigilant by carefully checking product information, prices, and origins while choosing reliable vendors and asking questions whenever doubts arise.