Month: September 2025

What is Daikon oroshi?

A photo of daikon oroshi
Grilled sanma is always served with grated daikon radish.

First, let’s look at the meanings of the words.

“Daikon” refers to a type of radish, and “oroshi” means “grated.”

“Oroshi daikon” refers specifically to grated daikon itself, while “daikon oroshi” can mean either the grated daikon or the tool used to grate it, called an oroshi-gane in Japanese. The distinction can be a little tricky.

Vegetables that are commonly grated include daikon, carrots, turnips, yams, potatoes, onions, lotus roots, and cucumbers. Fruits such as apples and pears can also be grated.

About Daikon

Daikon is an essential vegetable in Japanese cuisine. It is considered one of the oldest vegetables in the world and was already cultivated in ancient Egypt. Daikon is generally classified into three types: European, Chinese, and Japanese. It was introduced to Japan from China, and suzushiro, one of the “Seven Herbs of Spring,” refers to daikon.

Over time, daikon has developed into hundreds of regional varieties. Since the 1970s, however, the “Aokubi daikon (青首大根),” known for being juicy, mild, and slightly sweet, has become the most widely consumed variety.

Typical dishes featuring daikon include pickles, oden (a Japanese hot pot), and buri-daikon (yellowtail simmered with daikon). Although daikon rarely plays the leading role in a dish, it is an important supporting ingredient that adds depth to many recipes.

About Daikon Oroshi

As mentioned earlier, daikon oroshi means grated daikon. It has a refreshing spiciness with a hint of sweetness and is often served with grilled fish in Japan.

When preparing daikon oroshi, the juice is not squeezed out. Instead, it is placed in a strainer so that excess water drains naturally. The flavor varies depending on which part of the root is used:

  • The top is juicier and sweeter.
  • The tip is drier and spicier.
  • The middle has a good balance of both.

The grating method also affects the texture:

  • Grating vertically produces a fine, smooth texture.
  • Grating diagonally results in a coarser texture with more noticeable daikon fibers.

No matter which part of the daikon is used, the skin should be peeled thinly before grating. To grate it, hold the daikon vertically against the grater, pressing down and rotating it in a circular motion to cut across the fibers.

Role and Uses of Daikon Oroshi

Daikon oroshi has long been valued as a condiment because it aids digestion. It is especially important when eating oily fish such as yellowtail, fatty tuna, or mackerel sashimi. Without daikon oroshi, the fish oil repels the soy sauce, making the dish less pleasant to eat.

Popular ways to enjoy daikon oroshi include:

  • With grilled fish: Pairing a bite of fish with daikon oroshi balances the fish’s richness with a refreshing spiciness. Adding a touch of soy sauce enhances the flavor even further.

 

  • With tempura: Instead of placing it directly on the tempura, mix daikon oroshi into the dipping sauce. Its freshness lifts and complements the sauce’s flavor.

 

  • In simmered dishes and hot pots: When large amounts of grated daikon are added, the dish resembles sleet (a mix of rain and snow). These dishes are called mizore-ni (simmered with grated daikon) or mizore-nabe (hot pot with grated daikon). Variations used for side dishes are called mizore-ae. A hot pot generously topped with grated daikon looks beautiful, like a snowy landscape, and has a refreshing mouthfeel. It enhances the meat’s umami without feeling heavy. It pairs well with pork or chicken.

 

  • With noodles: Adding grated daikon radish to cold noodles creates a refreshing mouthfeel, perfect for hot weather. Incorporating it as a garnish also sharpens the overall taste.

 

  • As a condiment: Daikon oroshi is also enjoyed with Japanese-style hamburger steak and Japanese-style beef steak. It cuts through the richness of meat and aids digestion. A splash of ponzu or soy sauce transforms it into a distinctly Japanese flavor.

Beyond its culinary uses, the distinctive pungency of daikon oroshi also has a fascinating scientific basis. Let’s take a closer look.

What is the pungent component in daikon oroshi?

The pungent component in daikon oroshi comes from allyl isothiocyanate (a type of isothiocyanate) contained in the essential oil component mustard oil. Daikon radish itself is not spicy when eaten whole. However, grating or cutting the daikon breaks its cells, causing the precursor compounds of isothiocyanates within the cells to generate the pungent isothiocyanates. The tip of the daikon is spicier because it contains a higher concentration of these isothiocyanate precursors.

Why does the spiciness of Daikon oroshi disappear during cooking?

Daikon oroshi becomes sweeter when heated. This is the same principle as daikon becoming sweeter when simmered. The pungent isothiocyanate compounds are volatile, so they evaporate during heating. The glucose naturally present in the daikon remains, and this is what we perceive as sweetness.

The enzyme myrosinase is involved in converting the isothiocyanate precursors into the pungent isothiocyanates. Generally, enzymes are most active near neutral pH and do not function in acidic or alkaline conditions.

When cooking, adding vinegar to Daikon oroshi makes it acidic, deactivating myrosinase. Consequently, no isothiocyanates are produced, so it doesn’t taste spicy. When soy sauce is added to daikon oroshi, the areas touched by soy sauce are not spicy because only those parts become acidic, causing myrosinase activity to cease. Placing daikon oroshi into warm tempura dipping sauce warms the daikon oroshi, causing the isothiocyanates to volatilize and disappear. This results in a lack of spiciness, a refreshing texture, and allows the oily tempura to be enjoyed.

Why is wasabi always served with sushi and sashimi?

A photo of sashimi
Wasabi is always served alongside sashimi.

Wasabi, a vegetable native to Japan, is traditionally served with raw fish dishes such as sashimi. While it has antibacterial properties, its primary role is to enhance the flavor of the fish. Japan has numerous aromatic vegetables, including wasabi, ginger, myoga, green onions, and sansho pepper, among others. Each possesses a unique aroma and aromatic compounds. Adding these to other foods or mixing them during cooking stimulates the taste buds, significantly enhancing the flavor of the dish. Since all these aromatic vegetables have antibacterial and sterilizing effects, they are often served with sashimi and similar dishes.

The pungent flavors of these aromatic vegetables can be broadly categorized into three types: the sharp, stinging heat of wasabi; the fiery, burning heat of chili peppers; and the numbing, tingling heat of sansho peppers. Each type has different components responsible for its distinct heat. Let’s examine them individually.

The pungent component in wasabi is a substance called sinigrin. Sinigrin itself has no pungency, but when the cells are broken down by grinding or similar processes, exposing sinigrin to oxygen in the air causes the enzyme myrosinase to produce a substance called allyl isothiocyanate. This allyl isothiocyanate is the pungent component in wasabi and Leaf mustard or Mustard greens. Wasabi is a plant in the Brassicaceae family, and sinigrin is a substance widely found in vegetables of this family. The pungent taste in other Brassicaceae plants like Mustard cress or Daikon mustard also comes from sinigrin. Wasabi simply contains a particularly high amount of it.

There are two types of wasabi: Sawa wasabi and Yama wasabi. Sawa wasabi is the common, green variety you see most often. Yama wasabi, on the other hand, is the horseradish served with roast beef and similar dishes. Although both are wasabi, their shape and color are completely different. Yama wasabi resembles spicy radish and is used as the base for prepared wasabi paste and powdered wasabi. It has low moisture content and is large in size, resulting in a high yield, making it well-suited for processed products.

 

Wasabi has been consumed since the Heian period, with records indicating it was eaten mixed into dishes like grated yam broth. At that time, there seemed to be established rules: carp sashimi was served with wasabi vinegar, sea bream sashimi with ginger vinegar, and sea bass sashimi with tade vinegar. Given the era’s hygiene concerns, it’s likely a considerable amount of aromatic vegetables were used. Wasabi began to be eaten with soba noodles, now commonplace, around the Edo period. Originally, spicy radish was served alongside soba. However, when radish was unavailable, wasabi was substituted. It is said that wasabi became a staple because it masked the distinctive fishy odor of the bonito flakes in the soba dipping sauce. Generally, it’s hard to imagine wasabi replacing radish.

 

Next, when it comes to chili peppers in Japan, Takanotsume (Bird’s eye chili) and Shichimi togarashi (seven flavor chili pepper) are common. Bird’s eye chili is often added to preserved foods such as rice bran pickles, and it has also been traditionally kept for medicinal purposes. This is because Bird’s eye chili also has antibacterial properties. It offers significant health benefits, burning body fat, warming the body, opening pores, and promoting sweating. It is especially effective in winter for raising body temperature. In summer, eating spicy food induces sweating, allowing moisture to evaporate along with body heat, thereby lowering temperature. The capsaicin in Bird’s eye chili promotes fat breakdown and accelerates the breakdown of glycogen in the liver and muscles. Consequently, it not only stimulates the stomach and improves blood circulation but also activates digestive movements within the internal organs, boosting appetite. It is effective during winter when lack of exercise reduces appetite, and also combats summer fatigue-induced loss of appetite.

Chili peppers have also been widely used in preserved foods like pickles, miso, and tsukudani. Their intense pungency and antibacterial properties enhance the shelf life of ingredients, making them a cherished seasoning that supports Japanese dietary habits.

 

The numbing spiciness of sansho comes from a compound called sanshool. Sanshool increases gastric acid secretion, making it a perfect match for rich, fatty dishes like eel. It also contains an aromatic compound called diterpene, which boosts immunity and enhances antioxidant effects. The name “sansho” (山椒) itself comes from the mountain-scented fruit that is spicy like pepper. Sansho is known as Japanese pepper in English, making it an iconic spice of Japan.

Furthermore, sansho has been utilized in diverse dishes by selecting either the berries or leaves. It is also used in preserved foods like tsukudani and chirimen sansho, enhancing ingredient preservation through its refreshing aroma and antibacterial properties. Additionally, in ancient times, it was valued medicinally as the herbal remedy “Shokushō (蜀椒),” prized for its stomach-strengthening and anthelmintic effects.

In other words, the practice of always serving wasabi with sushi and sashimi is not merely a custom. It is a tradition born from the convergence of scientific reasons like sterilization and antibacterial properties, the culinary ingenuity of maximizing the umami of fish, and the wisdom cultivated by the Japanese people throughout history. Wasabi is more than just a condiment; it is passed down to modern dining tables as a “key component” that elevates the dish’s overall quality.

Sushi Rice Shapes Explained: Rice-Bale vs. Boat-Bottom Nigiri Styles

A photo of Boat-Bottom Nigiri Styles
The appearance of Boat-Bottom Nigiri Styles

There are several ways to shape sushi rice, and when you look at a finished piece of nigiri from the side, you may notice distinctive forms. These shapes not only influence appearance but can also affect how the sushi is perceived in taste, making them a surprisingly important element.

The most common style is the rice-bale shape (Kometawaragata). A rice bale, traditionally made of straw to store and transport rice, has a cylindrical form, and the sushi rice resembles this when viewed from the side. The bottom that rests on the plate is relatively flat, while the surface in contact with the topping has a gentle curve. This creates a natural harmony with the fish, especially with thinly sliced or oily toppings, making it a versatile and widely used shape.

Another, less common form is the boat-bottom shape (Funazokogata). Seen from the side, it looks like an inverted trapezoid, with the top wider than the base. Because the contact surface between rice and topping spreads out like a fan, it gives the topping firmness and presence. This makes it especially suitable for larger cuts of fish, allowing them to sit beautifully without losing their shape.

The process of forming nigiri is essentially the same for both. Whether it becomes rice-bale shaped or boat-bottom shaped depends on how the chef applies pressure with the fingers. Even pressure produces the rice-bale form, while adding more strength to the bottom creates the boat-bottom form.

There is no inherent superiority between the two. The difference lies simply in shape, not in the skill level of the chef. Understanding these subtle variations can add another layer of appreciation to enjoying sushi.

Many sushi chefs used the Jigamigata technique. The name comes from its resemblance to the paper used for folding fans when viewed from the side. Jigamigata is considered well-suited for nigiri with larger toppings. This may be because in the past, shari often weighed 15g or more, paired with larger pieces of sushi toppings. Nigiri styles can be divided into endless detail, so we’ll stop here.

It is worth noting that, in the culture of Edomae-style sushi, harmony with taste has traditionally been valued more than visual form. The focus has been on the integration of topping and rice and on how the nigiri dissolves in the mouth, rather than on perfect geometric shapes. Consequently, chefs’ training and cookbooks emphasize techniques to enhance flavor rather than the precise shape of the finished sushi. This is also why literature often discusses how to form sushi but rarely describes the final shape in detail.

Related contents:

How to make nigiri sushi: Four essential sushi hand techniques

What is the difference between Akamutsu, Shiromutsu, Kuromutsu, and Ginmutsu?

A photo of Kuromutsu
Fish bearing the name “mutsu” signify that they are rich in fat.

In Japanese, aka means “red,” shiro means “white,” kuro means “black,” and gin means “silver.” Accordingly, names such as Akamutsu, Shiromutsu, Kuromutsu, and Ginmutsu can be understood as combinations of color terms with the fish name Mutsu.

Before examining each fish individually, it is useful to consider the meaning of the term Mutsu itself.

In certain dialects of the Shikoku and Chugoku regions, the expressions mutukoi or mutukkoi describe food that is “rich,” “heavy,” or “greasy,” as opposed to light and refreshing. This descriptive term, which emphasizes richness in fat, is thought to have evolved into the fish name Mutsu. In other words, the word Mutsu in fish names signifies “a fish rich in fat.” This designation was then combined with visible characteristics, such as coloration, to yield names like Akamutsu and Kuromutsu.

With this background in mind, let us now examine the four types of Mutsu, along with some related species.

Akamutsu (Common Name: Nodoguro)

The official name is Akamutsu, though it is more widely recognized by the common name Nodoguro (“black throat”), referring to the distinctive dark coloration at the back of its throat. Taxonomically, it belongs to the family Acropomatidae and is not closely related to the Kuromutsu of the family Scombropidae, discussed later.

Akamutsu is distributed primarily in western Japan and southward, as well as along the Sea of Japan coast. Kuromutsu, by contrast, inhabits the Pacific Ocean south of Iwate Prefecture and the Izu Islands. Compared to Kuromutsu, Akamutsu tends to live in slightly shallower waters.

Shiromutsu (Official Name: Oomehata)

Shiromutsu is a colloquial name; its official designation is Oomehata. Like Akamutsu, it does not belong to the family Scombropidae. It came to be called Shiromutsu because its flesh is whitish and rich in fat. Its formal name, Oomehata (“big-eyed grouper”), reflects its strikingly large eyes and a mistaken assumption of close relation to the grouper family.

In the Kanto region, the name Shiromutsu is more commonly used, though it is also sometimes referred to as Ginmutsu, leading to confusion. While it resembles Akamutsu in appearance, it can be distinguished by its very large eyes and a triangular anal fin.

Kuromutsu

The catch volume of Kuromutsu is quite limited, making it rare in ordinary household cuisine. Like Akamutsu, it has exceptional fat content and is considered among the most flavorful of fish. Due to both its rarity and its taste, it commands premium prices, sometimes surpassing even renowned high-end species such as Kue or Akamutsu.

Ginmutsu (Marketed Today as Mero)

Ginmutsu is the former Japanese market name for the Majeranainame (Common name is Patagonian toothfish), a large deep-sea species inhabiting waters around the Antarctic. A white-fleshed fish with a high fat content, it was once distributed in Japan as “Ginmutsu.” However, because it is taxonomically unrelated to Akamutsu and Kuromutsu, the use of this name was prohibited after the 2003 revision of the JAS Law, in order to prevent consumer confusion. Today, it is typically marketed in Japan under the name Mero.

Baramutsu and Aburasokomutsu (Related Species)

As a brief digression, Baramutsu and Aburasokomutsu are also fish whose names contain mutsu. Baramutsu is a deep-sea species in the family Gempylidae, characterized by an extremely high lipid content. Its flesh contains large amounts of wax esters, a type of indigestible oil, which can cause stomach pain and diarrhea in humans. For this reason, distribution of Baramutsu is prohibited in Japan.

Nevertheless, it is sold in the United States and is sometimes used deceptively as a substitute for other fish, although it is said to have an exquisite taste. In any case, members of the blackfin scabbardfish family, including Aburasokomutsu and Baramutsu, must be approached with caution due to their potential adverse health effects when consumed.

Mutsu (Standard Japanese Name)

The standard Japanese name Mutsu refers to a fish of the family Scombropidae. It closely resembles the Kuromutsu and is similarly prized for its rich, fatty flavor. This deep-sea fish is landed across Japan, from Hokkaido to Kyushu, and has long been regarded as a premium fish, especially in the Kanto region, where it is traditionally used in simmered dishes.

Because of their similar body shape and coloration, Mutsu and Kuromutsu are often not clearly distinguished and both may be sold as Kuromutsu. In the marketplace, however, they differ in price: Kuromutsu typically sells for more than twice the price of Mutsu, making cost an effective indicator of distinction.

Availability in Sushi Restaurants

In Tokyo sushi restaurants, the varieties most commonly offered are Akamutsu, Mutsu, and Kuromutsu. Since Mutsu and Kuromutsu are easily confused, many establishments label them uniformly as Kuromutsu. All of these are regarded as luxury fish, served only in select high-end sushi restaurants.

In my view, these toppings reach their full potential only when paired with shari seasoned with rich red vinegar and served with precise temperature control. Many sushi restaurants use lighter rice vinegar, which does not always harmonize with the oiliness of these fish. In some cases, it may even be necessary to prepare two different kinds of rice. Furthermore, in Tokyo, a single piece of such nigiri typically costs upwards of US$20.

Related contents:

Blackthroat seaperch (Akamutsu)

Silvergray seaperch (Oomehata)

Silverbelly seaperch (Wakiyahata)

Gnomefish (Kuromutsu)

Oilfish (Baramutsu)

Escolar (Aburasokomutsu)

Patagonian Toothfish (Majeranainame)

Japanese bluefish (Mutsu)

What is the difference between Yushimo and Yakishimo?

A photo of Kinmedai yakishimozukuri
The appearance of Kinmedai yakishimozukuri. Only the skin is seared.

In Japanese cuisine, it is common for the same cooking method to have different names depending on the season or context, which often leads to confusion. A good example of this is the distinction between yushimo and yakishimo. While they are similar, they are not identical, and understanding the difference is important.

The word shimo (霜) literally means “frost.” In cooking, shimofuri refers to a preliminary treatment in which food is briefly exposed to heat—by pouring boiling water over it, dipping it in hot water, or lightly searing it—so that the surface turns white, resembling frost. It is suitable for fish with beautiful skin or fish that are delicious when eaten with the skin on.

It also refers to the preparation step, similar to kawasimo or yushimo, where the fish is briefly dipped in hot water to remove scales and bloodline before preparing Arani (粗煮) or kabutoyaki (兜煮).

Shimofuri technique removes odors, sliminess, and excess fat while sealing the ingredient’s umami. It also firms the flesh and adds elasticity.

Yushimo (湯霜) comes from yu (hot water) and shimo (frost). It is a type of shimofuri in which the surface of fish or meat is treated with boiling water, either by dipping it quickly into hot water or by pouring hot water over it. The food is then immediately cooled in ice water and the moisture is removed before further preparation. This method is also known as yubiki (湯引き).

When used for sashimi, it is called yushimozukuri (湯霜造り). In this preparation, hot water is poured over the skin side of a fish fillet to soften the skin, after which the fish is chilled, the moisture is removed, and it is sliced. The result is an elegant appearance, with curled skin that enhances both flavor and presentation.

The term yushimozukuri refers not only to the cooking technique itself but also to the sashimi dish prepared using that method.

Yakishimo (焼霜), on the other hand, comes from yaki (to grill) and shimo (frost). This method involves lightly searing the surface of fish or meat until it develops a touch of browning, then cooled in cold water. Like yushimo, it removes excess fat and odor, but it also imparts a subtle roasted aroma. When used for sashimi, it is called yakishimozukuri (焼霜造り). This preparation is widely applied to fish such as red seabream, chicken grunt, barracuda, largehead hairtail, blackthroat seaperch, daggertooth pike conger, yellowtail, Spanish mackerel, bonito, and mackerel.

Depending on the style, the fish may be seared while still in fillet form (saku), or after being cut into sashimi slices. Just like yushimozukuri, the term yakishimozukuri refers both to the cooking method itself and to the sashimi dish created through that method.

Additionally, kawashimozukuri (皮霜造り) refers to sashimi in which the skin has been blanched in boiling water or over an open flame. This technique is also called matsukawazukuri (松皮造り) because, when applied to fish such as sea bream, it creates a pattern that resembles pine bark (matsukawa means pine bark). It enhances the umami of the skin while eliminating any fishy odor. It has the same meaning as Shimofuri and Yushimo.

In short, both yushimo and yakishimo are forms of shimofuri. Yushimo uses boiling water, while yakishimo uses direct heat from searing. Though their purpose is similar, each creates a distinct flavor, texture, and visual appeal, showcasing the ingredient in a uniquely Japanese way.

What is the difference between Aburi and Tataki?

A photo of aburi
Grilling is more commonly done with meat than with sushi toppings.

Both Aburi and Tataki are Japanese cooking techniques that involve exposing food to high heat, but they differ in both purpose and process.

Aburi means “to sear,” and refers to lightly grilling the surface of food while leaving the inside raw.

In sushi, aburi is often applied to fatty cuts like salmon or tuna, where the flame enhances aroma, melts fat, and creates a contrast between the charred surface and the fresh interior. Some chefs use handheld gas burners, though Edomae-style masters often disapprove because of the faint odor left by the gas. For them, aburi is not about making the fish richer, but about controlling fat so the sushi remains balanced.

Other methods such as charcoal grilling, ovens, or iron plates can also be used, producing different aromas and textures. Aburi also appears in vegetables—like peppers or eggplants whose skins are charred and peeled—and in desserts such as crème brûlée or baked custard pudding, where caramelized surfaces are essential.

Tataki, in contrast, is more polysemous. In its seared form, tataki refers to quickly grilling the surface of fish or meat, then cooling it and slicing it.

Unlike aburi, tataki is always finished with seasonings: the slices are eaten with condiments such as soy sauce, ginger, garlic, or other pungent garnishes. This seasoning process is essential to the identity of tataki. The best-known example is katsuo no tataki from Kochi, where bonito is straw-seared, chilled in ice water, and served with generous amounts of aromatic condiments.

The term tataki also extends to finely chopping fish into a mince or even a paste, and to vegetables like cucumber or burdock root that are pounded to soften their texture, but in comparison with aburi, it is the seared and seasoned preparation that is most relevant.

Thus, while both techniques highlight the interplay of cooked and raw, aburi serves primarily as an aromatic finish that enhances natural flavor, whereas tataki is a preparation that combines searing with deliberate seasoning. This requirement of seasoning after searing marks a fundamental difference between the two.

Related contents:

What is “Katsuo no Tataki”?

What is the difference between Real and Imitation wasabi?

A photo of Imitaion wasabi
This is imitation wasabi served with uramaki.

When most people think of wasabi, they picture a bright green paste with a strong, nose-tingling heat. In reality, what is served in most sushi restaurants around the world—including in the U.S., Europe, Asia, and China—is usually imitation wasabi.

This is not because restaurants want to mislead customers, but because real wasabi is incredibly difficult to grow and very expensive. The Wasabia japonica plant needs pure spring water, cool temperatures, and several years of careful cultivation, which makes large-scale production nearly impossible. As a result, genuine wasabi is rare even in Japan, and much harder to find abroad.

A photo of Imitation wasabi
Imitation wasabi is a food product primarily made from horseradish. It contains added coloring, flavoring, and thickening agents that give it the appearance and taste of real wasabi.

Imitation wasabi, made from horseradish, mustard, and green coloring, became the practical solution. It is affordable, easy to store, and widely available, which has allowed sushi culture to spread and become popular worldwide. Without this substitute, sushi culture might not have grown as quickly outside Japan.

Even in Japan, most wasabi served at conveyor-belt sushi chains or sold in supermarkets is not 100% hon-wasabi (hon means real). There are powdered forms that must be mixed with water, and smooth pastes packaged in tubes. Their compositions vary: some include a small amount of domestically grown wasabi rhizome, others add mustard powder for extra sharpness, and many rely primarily on horseradish. In other words, “imitation wasabi” in Japan exists on a spectrum—from blends with real wasabi to products made almost entirely from substitutes.

By contrast, at high-end sushi restaurants and traditional ryotei in Japan, chefs freshly grate real wasabi rhizomes on sharkskin graters and serve it directly with sushi. These chefs deliberately choose authentic wasabi because it brings out the natural character of the fish and rice. Its fleeting heat, subtle sweetness, and refreshing aroma work in harmony with the sushi rather than overpowering it. In other words, real wasabi is not just a condiment—it is an essential element that allows the true flavor of the ingredients to shine.

In recent years, a few farms in the United States—in places like Oregon, North Carolina, and California—as well as in Europe, China, and other parts of Asia have begun cultivating real wasabi. However, the same challenges remain: it cannot be mass-produced, so supply is very limited.

So while most people around the world—and even many in Japan—have only encountered imitation wasabi, it exists for very practical reasons. And when diners finally taste freshly grated real wasabi, they often discover a surprisingly delicate, even slightly sweet flavor unlike anything they expected.

For travelers visiting Japan, tasting real wasabi at a sushi restaurant or ryotei is a unique culinary experience. It is an opportunity to appreciate the subtlety and harmony of authentic Japanese cuisine—something that cannot be fully replicated elsewhere.

Related contents:

What is Yamawasabi?

What is wasabi?

The Birth of Edomae Sushi Through Soy Sauce

A photo of soy sauce
The main ingredients of soy sauce are soybeans, wheat, and salt.

The Deliciousness of Nigiri Sushi and the Role of Soy Sauce

The appeal of nigiri sushi lies in the balance between the vinegared rice

’s gentle acidity and the seafood’s natural umami. Soy sauce elevates this harmony, acting like a quiet but essential partner in the background—a supporting role without which sushi would feel incomplete.

So-called Kansai-style sushi, such as oshizushi, bozushi, and hakozushi, which developed from preserved foods, involves seasoning not only the vinegared rice but also the sushi toppings. Therefore, it can be eaten without soy sauce. However, Edomae sushi uses fresh ingredients and values the inherent flavor of those ingredients. This necessitated a soy sauce that wouldn’t compromise the natural taste of the ingredients but rather enhance it.

Soy sauce contributes more than taste. It also helps neutralize the fishy odor that vinegar alone cannot remove. For instance, in hikarimono like kohada, saba, and aji, even a light brush of soy sauce softens the smell and polishes the flavor.

Beyond flavor and aroma, soy sauce also plays a role in preservation. Just as vinegar and salt protect sushi from spoilage, soy sauce has long been recognized for its bacteriostatic properties. In this way, it supported the development of Japanese cuisine, which relies on raw ingredients even in Japan’s humid climate.

Whether through its color, taste, fragrance, or hygienic qualities, soy sauce is woven into the very foundation of Japanese culinary culture.

Traditional Soy Sauce in Edomae Sushi

Edomae sushi originally used seafood caught in Tokyo Bay, but from the Edo period onward, fish such as tuna were also brought in from distant waters. These were often marinated in soy sauce in a technique called zuke. The name itself comes from this marinade, and to this day, sushi shops that uphold Edomae traditions still serve maguro zuke. Thanks to modern freezing and storage methods, fresh tuna is available year-round, so zuke is no longer a necessity—but its deep, mellow flavor endures.

In the past, soy sauce was rougher and less refined than today. To suit their needs, sushi chefs would cook and season it, creating nikiri shoyu (“simmered soy sauce”). This is typically made by gently simmering soy sauce with 10–20% mirin, sometimes with sake, bonito stock, or water. After about 30 minutes, when bubbles form, the heat is turned off. The word nikiri—literally “simmered to completion”—is said to come from this step.

Although improvements in modern soy sauce mean some shops no longer use nikiri, many traditional Edomae sushi restaurants still brush it onto their nigiri, just as they continue the practice of zuke.

Among simmered toppings (nimono) like anago, shako, and hamaguri, another essential sauce is tsume (or nitsume). Made by reducing the simmering liquid of anago or hamaguri with soy sauce, mirin, and sugar until it becomes a rich glaze—about one-tenth its original volume—tsume has been perfected in each restaurant’s own style.

Traditionally, tsume is prepared when high-quality anago arrives. The head and bones are simmered to create a flavorful broth, which is strained and then combined with soy sauce, mirin, and sugar. It is slowly reduced over half a day into a glossy sauce. The choice of soy sauce here is critical, and many sushi chefs say that the depth of a restaurant’s tsume reflects its true character.

Conclusion

In sushi, soy sauce is far more than a condiment. It balances flavors, refines aromas, preserves freshness, and embodies tradition. The delicate ways in which it is used—through zuke, nikiri, or tsume—are a testament to the craft of Edomae sushi and remain central to the essence of sushi culture today.

What is Aka shari?

A photo of aka shari
This is nigiri sushi with aka shari.

The “aka” in aka shari means “red” in Japanese, while “shari” refers to the vinegared rice used in sushi. Literally, it means “red vinegared rice,” but it doesn’t actually refer to bright red rice; instead, it denotes vinegared rice with a slightly brownish hue.

Why is it called “red”?

Typical vinegared rice is made by mixing cooked white rice with rice vinegar or grain vinegar. These vinegars are clear or pale yellow and don’t significantly change the rice’s color. As a result, the general understanding worldwide is that vinegared rice is white. Occasionally, artificially colored vinegared rice—such as blue or purple varieties—can also be seen.

By contrast, aka shari is made with red vinegar or black vinegar. These are dark brown liquids, and when mixed with rice, they produce vinegared rice with a light brown tint. Red vinegar was traditionally used in Edomae sushi, which originated in the Edo period, and this practice gave rise to the term “aka shari.” Its opposite is “gin shari.” While “gin” means silver, in this context it refers to pure white sushi rice.

However, making sushi rice exclusively with red or black vinegar results in a color that is too dark and an aroma that is overpowering, leading to an unbalanced taste. Although these vinegars are rich in umami components like amino acids, using them alone disrupts the overall harmony and can be polarizing in flavor. For this reason, sushi chefs commonly blend them with rice vinegar or grain vinegar. In fact, vinegar producers even sell blended vinegars specifically designed for vinegared rice.

Just as with other fermented foods, not everyone appreciates the flavor of aka shari made with red or black vinegar. While some chefs use it to emphasize the traditional prestige of Edomae sushi, it doesn’t always suit sushi that relies on a refreshing acidity.

Summary

Aka shari refers to sushi rice made with red vinegar, a hallmark of Edomae sushi. Its distinctive flavor and color add depth, but it is challenging to handle and not to everyone’s taste. How red vinegar is blended with other vinegars, and how the final rice harmonizes with sushi as a whole—this is where the craftsmanship and philosophy of the sushi chef truly shine.

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