The main ingredients of soy sauce are soybeans, wheat, and salt.
The Deliciousness of Nigiri Sushi and the Role of Soy Sauce
The appeal of nigiri sushi lies in the balance between the vinegared rice
’s gentle acidity and the seafood’s natural umami.Soy sauce elevates this harmony, acting like a quiet but essential partner in the background—a supporting role without which sushi would feel incomplete.
So-called Kansai-style sushi, such as oshizushi, bozushi, and hakozushi, which developed from preserved foods, involves seasoning not only the vinegared rice but also the sushi toppings. Therefore, it can be eaten without soy sauce. However, Edomae sushi uses fresh ingredients and values the inherent flavor of those ingredients. This necessitated a soy sauce that wouldn’t compromise the natural taste of the ingredients but rather enhance it.
Soy sauce contributes more than taste. It also helps neutralize the fishy odor that vinegar alone cannot remove. For instance, in hikarimono like kohada, saba, and aji, even a light brush of soy sauce softens the smell and polishes the flavor.
Beyond flavor and aroma, soy sauce also plays a role in preservation. Just as vinegar and salt protect sushi from spoilage, soy sauce has long been recognized for its bacteriostatic properties. In this way, it supported the development of Japanese cuisine, which relies on raw ingredients even in Japan’s humid climate.
Whether through its color, taste, fragrance, or hygienic qualities, soy sauce is woven into the very foundation of Japanese culinary culture.
Traditional Soy Sauce in Edomae Sushi
Edomae sushi originally used seafood caught in Tokyo Bay, but from the Edo period onward, fish such as tuna were also brought in from distant waters. These were often marinated in soy sauce in a technique called zuke. The name itself comes from this marinade, and to this day, sushi shops that uphold Edomae traditions still serve maguro zuke. Thanks to modern freezing and storage methods, fresh tuna is available year-round, so zuke is no longer a necessity—but its deep, mellow flavor endures.
In the past, soy sauce was rougher and less refined than today. To suit their needs, sushi chefs would cook and season it, creating nikiri shoyu (“simmered soy sauce”). This is typically made by gently simmering soy sauce with 10–20% mirin, sometimes with sake, bonito stock, or water. After about 30 minutes, when bubbles form, the heat is turned off. The word nikiri—literally “simmered to completion”—is said to come from this step.
Although improvements in modern soy sauce mean some shops no longer use nikiri, many traditional Edomae sushi restaurants still brush it onto their nigiri, just as they continue the practice of zuke.
Among simmered toppings (nimono) like anago, shako, and hamaguri, another essential sauce is tsume (or nitsume). Made by reducing the simmering liquid of anago or hamaguri with soy sauce, mirin, and sugar until it becomes a rich glaze—about one-tenth its original volume—tsume has been perfected in each restaurant’s own style.
Traditionally, tsume is prepared when high-quality anago arrives. The head and bones are simmered to create a flavorful broth, which is strained and then combined with soy sauce, mirin, and sugar. It is slowly reduced over half a day into a glossy sauce. The choice of soy sauce here is critical, and many sushi chefs say that the depth of a restaurant’s tsume reflects its true character.
Conclusion
In sushi, soy sauce is far more than a condiment. It balances flavors, refines aromas, preserves freshness, and embodies tradition. The delicate ways in which it is used—through zuke, nikiri, or tsume—are a testament to the craft of Edomae sushi and remain central to the essence of sushi culture today.
The “aka” in aka shari means “red” in Japanese, while “shari” refers to the vinegared rice used in sushi. Literally, it means “red vinegared rice,” but it doesn’t actually refer to bright red rice; instead, it denotes vinegared rice with a slightly brownish hue.
Why is it called “red”?
Typical vinegared rice is made by mixing cooked white rice with rice vinegar or grain vinegar. These vinegars are clear or pale yellow and don’t significantly change the rice’s color. As a result, the general understanding worldwide is that vinegared rice is white. Occasionally, artificially colored vinegared rice—such as blue or purple varieties—can also be seen.
By contrast, aka shari is made with red vinegar or black vinegar. These are dark brown liquids, and when mixed with rice, they produce vinegared rice with a light brown tint. Red vinegar was traditionally used in Edomae sushi, which originated in the Edo period, and this practice gave rise to the term “aka shari.” Its opposite is “gin shari.” While “gin” means silver, in this context it refers to pure white sushi rice.
However, making sushi rice exclusively with red or black vinegar results in a color that is too dark and an aroma that is overpowering, leading to an unbalanced taste. Although these vinegars are rich in umami components like amino acids, using them alone disrupts the overall harmony and can be polarizing in flavor. For this reason, sushi chefs commonly blend them with rice vinegar or grain vinegar. In fact, vinegar producers even sell blended vinegars specifically designed for vinegared rice.
Just as with other fermented foods, not everyone appreciates the flavor of aka shari made with red or black vinegar. While some chefs use it to emphasize the traditional prestige of Edomae sushi, it doesn’t always suit sushi that relies on a refreshing acidity.
Summary
Aka shari refers to sushi rice made with red vinegar, a hallmark of Edomae sushi. Its distinctive flavor and color add depth, but it is challenging to handle and not to everyone’s taste. How red vinegar is blended with other vinegars, and how the final rice harmonizes with sushi as a whole—this is where the craftsmanship and philosophy of the sushi chef truly shine.
Both sabazushi and battera are types of oshizushi made with mackerel. Oshizushi is made by layering vinegared rice with vinegared mackerel and shiro-ita konbu, then pressing the mixture into a wooden mold. Mackerel has been abundant in Japan since ancient times, which led to the development of this dish as a practical preserved food.
There are clear differences between Sabazushi and Battera, so let us explain them.
The appearance of sabazushi
Sabazushi is said to have originated in the Edo period. Mackerel is salted and transported from its place of origin in Wakasa to Kyoto, where it arrives after 2 to 3 days, by which time the seasoning is just right. This salted mackerel is used to make Sabazushi. Even today, with the development of refrigeration technology, it remains popular with many people and is also a local dish of Kyoto. There are also long-established sushi restaurants that have been in business for generations. Additionally, Sabazushi can be found in other regions such as Hyogo, Hiroshima, and Wakayama, which have adopted the dish from Kyoto.
Sabazushi is prepared using a unique method. First, the air is removed from the vinegared rice to extend its shelf life. Then, the vinegar-marinated mackerel is formed into sticks with a cloth or bamboo mat. Finally, shiroita konbu or rausu konbu is placed on top to prevent the mackerel from drying out. Only half of the mackerel is used so that the thickness of the flesh is evident. The cross-section is rounded, which is why it is also called bozushi (bo means “stick”).
The appearance of battera
Next, Battera is a type of Oshizushi made by placing thinly sliced mackerel marinated in vinegar and shiroita konbu simmered in sweet vinegar on top of vinegared rice. It is typically shaped using a square mold. The mackerel is cut with a knife to minimize waste, resulting in an almost uniform thickness.
Battera is said to have been invented in 1894 by Tsunekichi Naka, the founder of Sushi Tsune, a sushi restaurant in Osaka. At the time, Sushi Tsune was selling Oshizushi made with Konishiro (Gizzard Shad), which was commonly caught in Osaka Bay. Due to its popularity, the traditional method using a cloth became insufficient for production, so a wooden, boat-shaped mold was used instead.
Customers reportedly referred to the mold as “bateira,” a Portuguese word meaning “boat,” which evolved into “battella.” Over time, this name further transformed into “Battera.” As the price of Konishiro (Gizzard Shad) rose, mackerel was adopted as an alternative, and due to its ease of shaping, square molds became the standard.
In summary,
Sabazushi: Use a bamboo mat to shape the fish into a round form, using thick slices of mackerel left whole. The cross-section has a rounded shape.
Battera: Shaped into a square using a wooden mold, thinly sliced mackerel is arranged evenly. The cross-section is square.
Sabazushi is a traditional regional sushi centered around Kyoto, while Battera is a type of sushi that became popular among the general public in Osaka.
This is what most people think of when they hear the word chirashizushi.
Recently, I came across an image on social media of Barachirashizushi made by an American sushi chef. I was surprised to see that Barachirashizushi, a dish traditionally made only by a few sushi restaurants that uphold the Edomae-style, had been created by a sushi chef outside Japan. However, it was labeled as Chirashizushi, which I found disappointing, so I will explain the difference.
The term “chirashizushi” (or “chirashi sushi”) originates from the act of scattering various ingredients over or within vinegared rice and is sometimes referred to simply as “chirashi.” Generally, “Gomokuzushi” refers to vinegared rice mixed with ingredients, while “chirashizushi” refers to vinegared rice topped with arranged ingredients. However, these terms are not strictly distinguished. The names may vary depending on the region (e.g., Kanto or Kansai) and generation.
First, let’s explore the origin of chirashizushi. The term “barazushi” appears here, but it is different from barachirashizushi.
Barazushi, a type of sushi from Okayama, is said to date back to the early Edo period. At that time, the feudal lord of Okayama Domain, Ikeda Mitsumasa (1609–1682), promoted frugality and simplicity. He issued the “One Soup, One Side Dish Edict,” which restricted side dishes to one item other than soup.
They finely chopped ingredients such as simmered shiitake mushrooms, kanpyo (dried gourd strips), and carrots and secretly mixed them into the rice. According to one story, sushi ingredients were placed at the bottom of a box and covered with seasoned rice to disguise them as a simple meal. The box was then flipped over just before serving.
As “Barazushi” spread throughout Japan, a style of scattering the ingredients on top of the vinegared rice rather than mixing them in was developed, and this became known as “Chirashizushi.”
Now, let’s look at the difference between chirashizushi and barachirashizushi, focusing on the names used in sushi restaurants in Tokyo.
The appearance of Chirashizushi
In Tokyo sushi, specifically Edomae sushi, Chirasushizushi refers to a dish where sushi toppings used for Nigiri sushi are arranged on top of vinegared rice (also known as Namachirashi, Fukiyosechirashi, or Edomaechirashi). However, in regions outside the Tokyo area, Chirashizushi generally refers to a dish where seasoned ingredients are mixed into vinegared rice and decorated with shredded omelette and seaweed (also known as Gomokuzushi or Barazsuhi). This is just my personal opinion, but I think that even in Tokyo, the latter is called chirashizushi.
Dishes made with plain white rice rather than vinegared rice are generally called seafood bowls. Sushi restaurants do not serve bowls of plain white rice (they cannot), but some restaurants call dishes made with vinegared rice seafood bowls. In my personal opinion, most seafood bowls served outside of sushi restaurants are made with plain white rice.
The appearance of Barachirashizushi
Additionally, a dish with randomly arranged sushi toppings on vinegared rice is called “barachirashizushi.” Some traditional sushi restaurants in Tokyo offer two types: chirashizushi, which is primarily served in-store, and barachirashizushi, which excludes toppings that are not suitable for takeout and can be taken home.
Incidentally, chirashizushi made with sushi ingredients is not typically prepared in Kanto-style households. More precisely, it may include decorative toppings such as ikura (salmon roe), tobiko (flying fish roe), and steamed shrimp; however, the standard ingredients are dried shiitake mushrooms, lotus root, carrots, snow peas, and shredded omelet.
Other names for ao-negi include ha-negi, sho-negi, and bannō-negi.
We think foreigners may be unable to tell the difference between Japanese green onions just by looking at them. There are two main types, but even though they are the same onion, they have different names, which can be confusing. In the Kanto region and northern Japan, shiro-negi (Japanese leeks) are commonly eaten, while in western Japan, ao-negi (green onions) are the mainstream variety. Green onions used as a condiment in udon and soba noodles are also Japanese leeks in the east and green onions in the west.
Other names for Naga-negi include Shiro-nrgi and Nebuka-negi.
Onions with more white parts are called “Nebuka-negi (根深ネギ),” while those with more green parts are called “Ha-negi (葉ネギ).” In Eastern Japan, the term “negi” simply refers to Nebuka-negi (also called Naga-negi or Shiro-negi), which is grown by mounding soil around the plant as it grows to protect it from direct sunlight, resulting in a strong flavor and thick stems. Other types are distinguished by specific names such as “Wakegi,” “Asatsuki,” “Bannō-negi (also called sho-negi),” and “Kujo-negi.” In western Japan, the thin Ha-negi grown in the sun is called “Ao-negi,” and Nebuka-negi is sometimes referred to as “Shiro-negi” or “Nebuka.”
In summary, the word negi in Japanese cuisine is a broad term that can refer to several varieties: Ao-negi (青ネギ), common in western Japan; Naga-negi (長ネギ), more popular in eastern Japan; and their subtypes such as Bannō-negi (万能ネギ), an improved cultivar of Ao-negi, and Kujo-negi (九条ネギ), a Kyoto specialty. These variations can be confusing to foreigners, but they reflect how regional food culture has shaped the way green onions are used in Japanese cooking.
Onions Commonly Used in Sushi Restaurants
In Japanese sushi restaurants, several types of onions play important supporting roles in flavor and presentation. The most common are Bannō-negi (万能ネギ), a versatile fine green onion; Ao-negi (青ネギ), the standard leaf onion; Naga-negi (長ネギ), a long Welsh onion often used as Shiraga-negi; and Me-negi (芽ネギ), the tender young sprout onion. Each type has its own distinct characteristics and culinary uses.
Bannō-negi, often translated as “fine green onion,” is actually an improved cultivar of the broader Ao-negi group. Compared to standard Aoba-negi, it is thinner, softer, and milder, making it especially suitable as a garnish for sushi or sashimi.
By contrast, Naga-negi has a thick white stalk. In sushi, it is often shredded into fine strips called Shiraga-negi (白髪ネギ), which are placed on top of fatty fish to balance richness with a refreshing sharpness. By the way, Shiraga (meaning “white hair”)-negi refers to the white part of Naga-negi, sliced thinly like white hair.
Another variation is Me-negi, which are delicate and visually appealing. They provide a crisp texture and a subtle, grassy fragrance that complements lighter sushi toppings.
Together, these different forms of onions demonstrate how sushi chefs carefully choose the right variety to balance flavor, texture, and presentation.
Sashimi is a standard menu item at whale specialty restaurants.
It has been six years since Japan withdrew from the International Whaling Commission (IWC) and resumed commercial whaling. Many consumers had hoped that whale meat would become cheaper and appear on dinner tables. This is because whale meat is a nutritious and versatile ingredient that can be used in a variety of dishes. However, the amount of whale meat available in circulation has decreased compared to the era of research whaling. What exactly were the Japanese government and the whaling industry trying to protect?
On the other hand, the three countries strongly pushing for a “whale hunting ban” in Japan are the United States, Australia, and New Zealand. Why is Japan not allowed to engage in commercial whaling when Iceland and Norway are permitted to do so? Such inconsistencies also exist.
In fact, very few Japanese people actually want to eat whale meat. According to a survey by Greenpeace, 95% of Japanese people do not particularly want to eat whale meat. It is said that the average annual consumption of whale meat per person in Japan is now 40 grams. It was quite a challenge to find images of whale sushi in our saved files.
In other words, whales may now be used as political and economic tools, transcending issues such as human food and the environment.
To put it bluntly, it may be the fault of a few members of parliament elected from constituencies with many whaling-related interests and hundreds of bureaucrats who do not want to lose their budgets.
This article is simply to show that whale sushi exists as part of Japanese food culture. Although rare today, whale occasionally appears as sushi neta (topping). So, what kinds of whale are actually used for sushi? Let’s take a closer look.
Minke whales in the northern hemisphere are about 8 meters long. Seen from above, their heads are pointed at the tip. There is a white patch on the upper center of the pectoral fins. The dorsal fin, about 30 cm high, is located toward the rear of the body and is often clearly sickle-shaped. The back is black, the sides are gray with a blurred pattern, and the lower jaw and abdomen are white.
It generally feeds on krill, small squid, and fish. It filters its food through bristle-like baleen plates, made of keratin. The Japanese name for the minke whale is higekujira, which means bearded whale.
Description: A relatively small baleen whale, measuring about 7–10 meters in length.
Use: The most commonly caught species in Japan’s commercial whaling, widely utilized for sushi toppings, sashimi, and bacon-style preparations.
Flavor: The red meat is tender with little odor, making it one of the more approachable types of whale meat.
Bryde’s Whale is a close relative of the Sei whale. It was named “Nitarikujira” (meaning “similar whale”) because it resembles the Sei whale. It grows to a maximum length of about 15 meters and is slightly smaller than the Sei whale.
Description: A medium-sized baleen whale, usually 12–15 meters long, larger than the minke whale.
Use: Its red meat is served as sushi or sashimi, while fatty cuts and tail meat are often cooked.
Flavor: The red meat has a richer taste with a pronounced umami and iron-like character.
3. Sei Whale (Balaenoptera borealis Lesson, 1828)
Sei whales are baleen whales belonging to the family Balaenopteridae. They migrate across the open ocean in schools of sardines, feeding on them, which is how they got their name.
Two subspecies are recognized: the northern hemisphere subspecies (B. b. borealis) and the southern hemisphere subspecies (B. b. schlegelii). They are distributed in the southern Indian Ocean, the North Atlantic and South Atlantic, and the North Pacific and South Pacific.
Its body is slender and spindle-shaped, with a sickle-shaped dorsal fin. The dorsal color is dark blue, the ventral color is light blue, and there are blurred patterns in between. The head is V-shaped, enabling it to swim at high speeds. The maximum body length is approximately 18 meters.
Description: A baleen whale that grows 12–18 meters long. In the past, it was more frequently caught, but today only limited numbers are harvested.
Use: The lean red meat is used for sushi or sashimi, while fattier portions are processed into bacon or fried dishes.
Flavor: The meat is tender and relatively mild, with a clean, elegant taste.
Sperm whales are distributed worldwide from the Arctic to the Antarctic, with the largest populations found in deep ocean waters. Male sperm whales grow to a length of 15 to 20 meters and weigh between 40 and 60 tons. Their body color is blackish gray, but it becomes whiter with age. In particular, the head tends to become whiter. The dorsal fin is mountain-shaped, with several ridges extending from the rear toward the tail fin. The surface of the body, except for the head, is rough and uneven.
Description: A toothed whale and one of the largest whale species, reaching 15–20 meters or more in length.
Use: Rarely used as sushi. Instead, its distinctive fatty tissue is made into “toothed whale bacon” or other processed foods.
Flavor: The fat has a unique aroma and a very rich, heavy taste.
Types of whale meat
Saezuri
Saezuri is very fatty, and the taste and texture differ between the root and tip of the tongue. It has a deep umami flavor and is used in simmered dishes and oden. It is one of the most popular delicacies of whale meat.
Onomi
The back section from the dorsal fin to the tail, with fat marbled like snowflakes (shimofuri). Considered the most delicious part of whale meat, it is also known as whale Otoro.
Unesu
The white, accordion-shaped part running vertically from the lower jaw to the navel is called Une, and the red inner part is called Sunoko. These two parts together form Unesu. It has a soft, gelatinous texture and is one of the most popular whale meat cuts, cherished for generations.
Bacon
Bacon is a processed food made by salting and smoking the part called Unesu.
Sudachi is small in size with an intense aroma and a sharp, refreshing acidity. In contrast, kabosu contains more juice and offers a milder sourness, giving it a soft flavor that enhances other ingredients without overpowering them. Sudachi is about the size of a golf ball, while kabosu is about the size of a tennis ball.
【Nutritional value of kabosu】
Vitamin C
Citric acid
Potassium
Pinene
Limonene
【Nutritional value of sudachi】
Sudachitin
Vitamin C
Citric acid
Potassium
Beta-carotene
Vitamin E
Calcium
Dietary fiber Polyphenols
At sushi restaurants, these characteristics are carefully utilized. Sudachi is often paired with delicate toppings such as white fish or shellfish, where just a drop can add a refreshing fragrance and highlight the clean flavors of the fish. It is particularly valued when the sushi chef wants the citrus aroma to leave a memorable impression or to give a lighter, fresher finish to the sushi.
Conversely, using sudachi repeatedly in an omakase course can mask the flavors of the sushi toppings.
Kabosu, on the other hand, is chosen when the balance of flavors is more important than fragrance alone. Its gentle acidity and abundant juice make it suitable for richer or fattier fish, grilled items, or simmered dishes, where it softens heaviness and provides an elegant aftertaste.
The appearance of Kikabosu
Aged kabosu (Kikabosu), with its mellow and rounded aroma, is sometimes used to enhance the sophistication of high-end sushi. For example, a light drizzle of kabosu over sushi made with the mild-flavored pen shell (Tairagi) elevates the shellfish to a higher level. Sudachi or young kabosu, however, are too pungent and would merely serve as a simple accent.
In short, sushi chefs distinguish between the two by using sudachi when they want to highlight aroma and freshness, and kabosu when they wish to bring harmony and subtlety to the flavor.
The freezer compartment of a household freezer typically operates at -18°C. However, in practice, due to factors such as how often the door is opened and closed, the temperature often only reaches around -12°C. While this is cold enough to freeze water, it does not freeze the core of the food, so it may appear frozen at first glance. Proteins, enzymes, and lipids remain unfrozen, causing the taste and texture of the food to deteriorate significantly within a few weeks.
On the other hand, ultra-low temperature freezing can freeze all the components of fish meat, suppressing protein decomposition and stopping lipid oxidation. This makes it possible to store food for up to six months. All living organisms begin to age and deteriorate after death, eventually leading to oxidation and decay. The temperature that can stop this process is the world of ultra-low temperature freezing at -42°C.
Inhibition of enzymatic protein degradation
Under normal conditions, proteins that have ceased activity at room temperature undergo enzymatic degradation. For example, the proteins in freshly caught fish are in a high-molecular-weight state. Through enzymatic degradation, they break down into lower-molecular-weight compounds, advancing the aging process. If this process progresses too far, decay occurs.
Additionally, fish have a high water content of 70%, making them age much faster than livestock meat. Therefore, the key is to quickly cool the fish to ultra-low temperatures after catching them and then thaw them while maintaining the aging process.
Inhibition of fat oxidation
What is commonly referred to as “freezer burn” occurs when the fat naturally present in food rises to the surface and oxidizes, causing the color to turn yellowish and the appearance and taste to deteriorate. To prevent this, it is essential to prevent the food from coming into contact with air. Furthermore, by storing it in an ultra-low temperature environment, the oxidation process itself can be almost completely halted.
Inhibition of microbial proliferation
Even at the -18°C environment of a household freezer, microbial proliferation can be largely suppressed. However, for complete inhibition of all types of microbial growth, ultra-low temperatures are ideal.
Real-world applications
Ultra-low temperature freezing is already widely used in the seafood industry. At Tokyo’s Toyosu Market, premium tuna is stored and transported at -60°C to preserve its deep red color, fatty texture, and fresh taste for overseas shipments. In Hokkaido, Pacific saury is frozen at -50°C immediately after being caught on specialized vessels, allowing them to be enjoyed months later with near-fresh quality. Some Japanese supermarket chains use -45°C freezing for salmon fillets, enabling them to offer sashimi-grade products all year round while minimizing quality loss.
In sushi restaurants, anago (saltwater eel) is often purchased in bulk when prices are stable, stored at ultra-low temperatures, and thawed to maintain quality and cost efficiency. Likewise, ikura (salmon roe) is typically prepared in autumn, its peak season, and frozen for year-round use, ensuring consistent flavor and texture regardless of the season.
The fact that a 10,000-year-old mammoth excavated from Siberian permafrost was still edible after being cooked is a testament to the capabilities of ultra-low temperatures.
At first glance, Ikura and Sujiko look quite similar — both are salmon or trout roe — but they differ in preparation, flavor, texture, and how they are eaten. Here’s a closer look at their differences.
What is Ikura?
The word ikura comes from Russian, meaning “fish roe” or “small grains.” In Russia, it can refer to various types of roe, including caviar and cod roe. In Japan, however, ikura generally refers to salmon or trout roe, and in the fishing industry, it often means only salmon roe.
Ikura is made from mature salmon roe that is removed from the egg sac, separated into individual eggs through a mesh, and then seasoned — typically with salt or soy sauce. The grains are large, bursting in the mouth with a satisfying “pop,” releasing rich, buttery flavor. Because of its beautiful appearance and texture, ikura is commonly used for sushi, rice bowls, and various appetizers.
What is Sujiko?
Sujiko is made from immature (Not just before laying eggs) salmon roe that is salted while still wrapped in the membrane of the ovary. The eggs remain connected like a string (suji: 筋 in Japanese), which is where the name comes from. Since the eggs are less mature, the grains are smaller than those of ikura, and the texture is more dense and creamy.
There are two main ways to season sujiko:
Traditional salting (塩漬け) – The roe is salted to draw out umami, then salted again to finish the process. Freshness is critical; roe processed immediately after the fish is caught will be less salty and have better texture, while roe processed later will taste saltier and lose some texture.
Soy sauce marinating (醤油漬け) – A modern method that uses soy sauce which does not darken the roe, preserving its bright red color.
Historically, sujiko was considered a very salty preserved food and was thought to pair poorly with vinegared rice, so it was rarely used in sushi. However, with the rise of low-salt and soy sauce–marinated sujiko, it has started to appear in sushi and other creative dishes.
Texture – Ikura: bursts in the mouth / Sujiko: creamy and dense
Use – Ikura: sushi, donburi, appetizers / Sujiko: rice topping, onigiri, and now occasionally sushi
Both ikura and sujiko are symbols of autumn in Japan. Knowing the differences will help you appreciate their unique qualities — and choose the perfect roe for your meal.
Koku is a comprehensive sensory experience derived from the combined stimuli of taste, aroma, and texture in food. It refers to a phenomenon characterized by the complexity of these stimuli, further enhanced by a sense of spatial expansion and lingering persistence.
Just as taste is defined by the five basic categories of sweetness, saltiness, bitterness, sourness, and umami, Professor Toshihide Nishimura of Kagawa Nutrition University explains that koku can also be described through three fundamental elements: complexity, mouthfulness, and lingeringness.
While these three terms are individually recognized internationally in relation to flavor, there is no direct English equivalent that fully captures the nuance of the Japanese concept of koku when these elements are combined.
The first element, complexity, can be objectively evaluated based on the diversity of chemical compounds present in a food. For instance, fermented foods like soy sauce and miso develop hundreds of additional compounds as they age—meaning a batch aged for two years will typically have much greater complexity than one aged for only one year. Similarly, foods that are cooked for extended periods, such as stews, tend to develop a more intricate flavor profile due to the formation of a wider range of substances, which enhances the sense of koku.
The second element, mouthfulness, is closely tied to retronasal aroma—the aroma that travels from the back of the throat into the nasal cavity during chewing and swallowing. Retronasal aroma plays a critical role in how we perceive flavor. This becomes particularly evident when we catch a cold: with nasal congestion impairing our sense of smell, foods suddenly seem flavorless. In fact, the olfactory system is considered more advanced than the gustatory system in distinguishing fine differences. For example, when chewing vinegared rice, the aromas of vinegar, kelp broth, and seaweed gradually rise through the back of the throat into the nasal passages. Aromatic molecules linger on the mucous membranes of the nasal cavity, allowing the brain to continue interpreting them as part of the overall taste experience.
The third element, lingeringness, is often enhanced by the presence of fat. Fat readily absorbs and retains aromatic compounds, allowing them to adhere to the mucous membranes of the tongue and nasal passages, thus prolonging the flavor experience. While we often describe fatty foods as “rich and flavorful,” it’s important to note that fat itself is tasteless and odorless. The perceived flavor comes from the wide range of compounds that dissolve into the fat during cooking, creating a complex and lasting impression.
However, not all taste and aroma compounds in food are present at concentrations high enough to be consciously perceived. Here, the concept of a threshold becomes crucial—the minimum concentration at which a compound can be detected by the senses. Many flavor and aroma molecules exist below this threshold. While they are not individually detectable, they interact synergistically with other components to subtly but significantly shape the overall flavor impression.
These undetectable compounds function like hidden flavors. Rather than asserting themselves directly, they enhance the definition of other flavors and contribute to a balanced and harmonious profile. In this sense, they can be considered koku-enhancing substances that strengthen the depth, complexity, and persistence of the taste experience.
For example, a small amount of yuzu peel added to miso soup, a pinch of salt concealed in a simmered dish, or the synergistic effect of glutamic acid and inosinic acid in kelp-based broth—all of these contribute not through obvious presence, but by shaping the overall flavor, expanding the taste on the palate, and enriching the lingering aftertaste we associate with koku.
Thus, koku is not simply a “rich flavor” but a nuanced sensory phenomenon created by the interplay of clearly perceptible and imperceptible flavor elements. It emerges from thoughtful ingredient selection, careful cooking techniques, controlled aging, and subtle enhancements such as “secret ingredients.” All these components work together to create a dish with true koku.
This is why koku is so difficult to translate directly into English. It is not just a taste, but a layered sensory experience with temporal and spatial dimensions, lying at the very heart of Japanese cuisine. Understanding koku provides valuable insight into the richness of Japanese culinary culture and the refined craftsmanship that brings its flavors to life.
Among Japan’s rich tapestry of traditional foods, few dishes capture the nation’s culinary spirit quite like Okonomiyaki. Sometimes described as a “Japanese savory pancake,” Okonomiyaki is a comfort food rooted in local culture, creativity, and postwar resilience. Its name, meaning “cooked as you like,” reflects the dish’s defining characteristic—versatility. Whether served Kansai-style with ingredients mixed into a fluffy batter, or Hiroshima-style in layered form with noodles and cabbage, Okonomiyaki has earned its place as a favorite across Japan and beyond.
This guide takes you on a journey through the origins of Okonomiyaki, its regional variations, what makes it so delicious, the diverse range of ingredients it welcomes, and how to prepare it yourself. Whether you’re a curious traveler, a passionate foodie, or someone seeking to recreate a taste of Japan at home, this deep dive into Okonomiyaki offers the perfect starting point.
1. The History and Evolution of Okonomiyaki
An Unrecorded Beginning
Surprisingly, the term “okonomiyaki” has only come into common use in recent years. In fact, there are still some dictionaries that do not include it. There are no clear historical records identifying its origin, the person who coined the term, or exactly when it was first made. However, it is certain that foods resembling today’s okonomiyaki existed in various regions of Japan from long ago.
Roots: “Funo-yaki” in the Edo Period
One commonly cited predecessor of okonomiyaki is funo-yaki, which dates back to the Edo period. It was even used by tea master Sen no Rikyū as a tea sweet. Made by mixing coarsely ground wheat flour with water and grilling it on a hot plate, its appearance was said to resemble modern crepes. During the mid-Edo period, funo-yaki (麩の焼) became commercialized under the name sukesō-yaki (助惣焼き), and it was enjoyed as a sweet filled with miso or sweet bean paste. It later evolved into kintsuba, a traditional Japanese confection.
However, it is important to note that funo-yaki was still a confection, and followed a different lineage from okonomiyaki, which is a savory, grilled main dish.
Regional Genealogies: Tokyo, Osaka, and Hiroshima
Tokyo Lineage: Moji-yaki → Monjayaki → Dondon-yaki → Okonomiyaki
In Tokyo, the roots can be traced back to moji-yaki (文字焼き) in the late Edo period. During the Meiji era, monjayaki (もんじゃ焼き) emerged—a dish where flour mixed with water and ingredients was grilled on a hot plate. It became popular among children, who often made it themselves at candy shops.
In the early Showa period, a more filling version called dondon-yaki (どんどん焼) appeared at food stalls. This version involved placing ingredients between layers of batter, grilling both sides, and wrapping it in newspaper. It resembled the layered style now seen in Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki. After WWII, dondon-yaki transitioned from a street snack to a dish eaten inside restaurants, and eventually came to be known as okonomiyaki.
Osaka Lineage: Issen Yoshoku → Okonomiyaki
In Osaka, a light snack called issen yoshoku (一銭洋食) gained popularity among the general public in the early Showa era. This simple “mixed-grill” style dish consisted of flour batter with cabbage and pickled ginger, grilled and topped with Worcestershire sauce. It was often sold at candy shops or stalls, especially to children.
After the war, in response to food shortages, ingredients like meat, eggs, and seafood were added to make the dish more substantial. The term okonomiyaki became established, referring to the customizable nature of the dish, and it gradually evolved into a home-cooked meal and restaurant specialty.
In Hiroshima, the origin was also issen yoshoku (一銭洋食). Before and after the war, vendors and candy shops began preparing thin pancakes made from flour batter, then layering on cabbage, bean sprouts, tempura crumbs, and more before grilling. Eventually, stir-fried noodles were added inside, and the dish came to be known as niku-tama-soba (meat, egg, and noodles).
From the 1950s onward, a standardized method emerged where an egg was added to complete the dish. This became the foundation of modern Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki (広島風お好み焼き). A defining feature is the layered grilling technique, where ingredients are stacked rather than mixed. This method requires skilled use of long metal spatulas and is often considered a culinary art form locally.
In Hiroshima, unlike other regions, it is more common to eat okonomiyaki at specialty restaurants rather than make it at home, and the dish has become a major tourist attraction.
Modernization and Nationwide Spread
After World War II, due to rice shortages, wheat flour supplied by the U.S. became a valuable substitute staple. Okonomiyaki, which made efficient use of flour, spread rapidly across Japan. Each region developed its own unique style, and the dish became a beloved home-cooked meal throughout the country.
In the 1970s and 80s, the widespread use of household electric griddles made okonomiyaki popular as a fun, family-style meal prepared and eaten together at the table. The distinctions between Kansai-style (mixed) and Hiroshima-style (layered) okonomiyaki also became widely recognized.
Contemporary Okonomiyaki: Diversity and Global Reach
Since the beginning of the 21st century, okonomiyaki has undergone further diversification. Gourmet versions featuring ingredients like beef tendon, cheese, and spicy cod roe (mentaiko) have emerged, as have regional variants like negiyaki and modern-yaki. Additionally, menus now increasingly cater to dietary restrictions, including vegan and gluten-free options, making the dish more accessible to health-conscious and religious diners alike.
Experiential okonomiyaki restaurants catering to foreign tourists have also grown in number, with the interactive, grill-it-yourself nature of the dish now considered a cultural attraction. Moreover, overseas establishments dedicated to OKONOMIYAKI are on the rise, further establishing it as a recognized part of Japanese cuisine worldwide.
2. Types of Okonomiyaki
There are two major regional styles of Okonomiyaki in Japan, each with its own unique approach and flavor profile: Kansai-style (also known as Osaka-style) and Hiroshima-style.
2-1 Kansai-style Okonomiyaki (関西風お好み焼)
The appearance of Kansai-style Okonomiyaki
Kansai-style Okonomiyaki is perhaps the most well-known throughout Japan. In this style, the ingredients—including flour, cabbage, eggs, pork, seafood, and other desired additions—are mixed together into a batter, much like preparing a savory pancake. This mixture is then cooked on a hot griddle until both sides are golden brown and the center is soft and flavorful. The result is a fluffy, cohesive dish that’s typically topped with Okonomi sauce, mayonnaise, dried bonito flakes, and aonori (seaweed flakes). Regional variations of Kansai-style include “modan-yaki,” which adds a layer of noodles, and “negi-yaki,” which substitutes green onions for cabbage and is often enjoyed with soy sauce instead of the usual sweet-savory sauce.
2-2 Hiroshima-style Okonomiyaki (広島風お好み焼き)
The appearance of hiroshima style okonomiyaki
Hiroshima-style Okonomiyaki, on the other hand, takes a more layered approach. Rather than mixing the ingredients together, each component is stacked in a specific order: a thin crepe-like batter is laid down first, followed by a generous helping of finely shredded cabbage, bean sprouts, pork slices, and stir-fried noodles, often yakisoba. A fried egg is typically added on top before the dish is flipped and finished on the griddle. The final product is heartier and taller than its Kansai counterpart, offering a more complex texture in each bite.
Beyond these two main styles, there are countless local variations that reflect regional tastes and available ingredients. For example, in Fuchu, ground pork is used instead of pork belly, resulting in a crispier texture. In Shobara, rice replaces noodles, and the dish is eaten with ponzu rather than sauce. In Mihara, chicken giblets are a featured ingredient, and in other areas, versions include local delicacies such as squid tempura, sake lees, or spicy noodles. Each variation is a testament to the dish’s adaptability and deep roots in local food culture.
2-3 Onomichiyaki (尾道焼き)
It is made by layering bonito flakes, cabbage, Chinese noodles, squid tempura, salt and pepper-fried gizzard, beef fat, red ginger, pork, and other ingredients, then baking them. The sauce is less sweet than Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki and tends to be less viscous.
2-4 Kakioko (カキオコ)
The appearance of Kakioko
It is made by mixing shredded cabbage with a creamy batter, spreading it on a hot griddle, and cooking it until it is golden brown. Fresh oysters are added and cooked slowly until they are done, resulting in a crispy exterior and a soft interior.
2-5 Mametendamayaki (豆天玉焼)
The appearance of Mametendamayaki
Starting with Tokushima ramen, followed by udon, and then okonomiyaki. In fact, Tokushima is a city that rivals Osaka in terms of flour-based cuisine. Okonomiyaki made by mixing sweetly simmered red kidney beans into the batter and then grilling it. This is a local specialty that has been enjoyed in Tokushima for centuries, known as “Mameten tama.” In addition to red kidney beans, the batter includes eggs and tempura made from Tokushima’s unique small shrimp. The chewy dough, the comforting sweetness of the red kidney beans, and the sweet-and-spicy okonomiyaki sauce create a delightful contrast of textures and flavors.
2-6 Monjayaki (月島もんじゃ)
The appearance of Monjayaki
Tukishima Monjayaki is often considered a type of okonomiyaki, but due to differences in how it is made and eaten, it can be considered a separate dish from okonomiyaki.The most notable feature is the large amount of water used to dissolve the flour, and the fact that seasonings such as sauce are mixed into the ingredients before cooking. In terms of eating style, it is characterized by cutting the dish into bite-sized pieces and pressing them onto a hot iron plate with a small spatula before cooking. This results in a crispy exterior and a fluffy interior, making it a popular dish enjoyed by many people.
3. What Makes Okonomiyaki Delicious
The appeal of Okonomiyaki lies in its unique harmony of textures, flavors, and the sensory experience it delivers, both in preparation and consumption. It’s not just food; it’s a cultural experience rooted in warmth, sharing, and creativity.
First and foremost, the texture contrast is one of Okonomiyaki’s defining features. The crispy, caramelized surface of the pancake—achieved by searing it on a hot teppan (iron griddle)—gives way to a soft, moist, and fluffy interior, often studded with tender cabbage, savory meat, and chewy bits like squid or noodles. This contrast of crisp and soft, light and rich, makes every bite exciting and satisfying.
Flavor-wise, Okonomiyaki is a celebration of umami, the deeply savory fifth taste so beloved in Japanese cuisine. The base ingredients like dashi-flavored batter, pork, and seafood already provide rich depth. When topped with Okonomi sauce—a sweet and tangy condiment similar to Worcestershire sauce but thicker and more complex—it creates a luscious glaze that balances sweetness, saltiness, and spice. Add to that a drizzle of creamy Japanese mayonnaise, the umami-packed flakes of katsuobushi (dried bonito), and the aromatic aonori seaweed powder, and you get layers of flavor that linger and evolve with each bite.
Another source of delight is the interactive nature of the dish. In many restaurants, especially in Osaka or Hiroshima, customers cook the dish themselves on built-in griddles at their table. This communal aspect of flipping, topping, and sharing Okonomiyaki turns the meal into a fun, collaborative event—perfect for family gatherings, friendly get-togethers, or casual dates. Watching bonito flakes dance from the heat or hearing the sizzle of the batter hitting the griddle is an experience that engages all five senses.
Moreover, the versatility of the dish means it can be endlessly adapted. Whether you prefer it meaty and hearty, light and vegetarian, spicy, cheesy, or even with unconventional toppings like pesto or kimchi, Okonomiyaki welcomes your preferences. It’s comfort food that still allows for personal expression.
Finally, there’s an element of nostalgia for many Japanese people. For those who grew up eating Okonomiyaki at home or on festival days, its flavors are deeply connected with family, childhood, and tradition. For travelers and food lovers from abroad, it offers a uniquely satisfying entry point into Japanese culinary culture—familiar in form, yet completely original in taste.
In short, what makes Okonomiyaki delicious isn’t just the ingredients, but the way they come together to create a multi-sensory, customizable, and deeply comforting experience.
4. Ingredients in Okonomiyaki
Key ingredients typically include:
Flour: Energy-rich and combined with eggs to make the batter.
Cabbage: Provides sweetness, crunch, and Vitamin C.
Pork: Supplies protein and essential amino acids.
Eggs: Nutrient-dense and protein-rich.
Tempura scraps (tenkasu): Add texture and umami.
Green onions, bean sprouts, fish flakes: Offer nutritional and flavor boosts.
Noodles (Hiroshima style only): Yakisoba or udon.
Red pickled ginger: Adds tang and supports digestion.
Okonomi sauce: Sweet-savory and thicker than Worcestershire sauce.
Mayonnaise: Adds creaminess; common in Kansai style.
5. How to Make Okonomiyaki
Kansai-Style (Mixed Style):
① Create a batter by mixing flour, dashi (stock), and eggs.
② Add shredded cabbage, meat or seafood, and other desired ingredients.
③ Pour onto a hot greased pan or griddle and shape it into a circle.
④ Grill both sides until golden and cooked through.
⑤ Top with sauce, mayonnaise, seaweed, and bonito flakes.
Hiroshima-Style (Layered Style):
① Spread a thin crepe-like batter on the griddle.
② Layer with shredded cabbage, bean sprouts, pork, and yakisoba.
③ Place another crepe and crack an egg on top.
④ Flip the entire stack to cook evenly.
⑤ Finish with sauce, aonori, and (optionally) mayonnaise.
Access: Subway Sen-Nichimae Line, Tsuruhashi Station, 1-minute walk
Kintetsu Osaka Line, Tsuruhashi Station, 1-minute walk
Phone Number: +81-6-6771-7938
Closed: Only on New Year’s Day
Business Hours:
【Mon-Fri】11:30 AM – 9:30 PM
【Sat, Sun, Holidays】11:00 AM – 10:00 PM
Budget: [Lunch] 1,000–2,000 yen [Dinner] 2,000–3,000 yen
Conclusion:
Okonomiyaki is more than just a meal—it’s a reflection of Japan’s regional diversity, cultural resilience, and culinary creativity. From its ancient roots and wartime reinvention to its evolution into a modern-day comfort food, Okonomiyaki continues to bring people together around the sizzling warmth of the teppan grill. Whether in the mixed Kansai style or the layered Hiroshima style, the dish offers an endless variety of ingredients, textures, and flavors, all tailored to personal preference—true to its name, “as you like it.” Its balance of crispness and softness, umami-rich toppings, and customizable nature make it a dish that resonates across generations and cultures. As you explore or prepare Okonomiyaki, you’re not just enjoying a delicious Japanese classic—you’re taking part in a shared tradition built on ingenuity, community, and joy.
Let’s begin by looking at the meaning of the word tarako. In Japanese, tara means cod, and ko usually means “child.” However, in this context, ko refers not to children but to eggs (specifically, ovaries). This usage is common with other fish roe as well. For example, tobiko refers to flying fish roe, kazunoko to herring roe, and sujiko to salmon roe. So, tarako literally means cod roe.
This can be a bit confusing, because in Japan, tara typically refers to madara (Pacific cod). In Japanese, common or representative species of fish are often given the prefix ma, such as maiwashi (Japanese sardine) or masaba (chub mackerel). Therefore, one might assume that tarako comes from the ovaries of madara, but that’s not actually the case.
In reality, tarako is made not from the ovaries of madara (Pacific cod), but from sukesodara (Alaska pollock). These ovaries are salted and preserved, and the resulting product is called tarako or shio-tarako (salted cod roe).
Tarako became widely consumed in Japan in the late Meiji era, when poor catches of madara led to the harvesting of sukesodara as an alternative. The ovaries of this fish were salted and eaten, marking the beginning of tarako as we know it today.
Most tarako available in supermarkets today is made from ovaries of sukesodara caught in Alaskan or Russian waters. The roe is harvested onboard and flash-frozen, then processed into tarako in Japan. Typically, these are colored to a bright reddish-orange to enhance their appearance. Recently, non-colored varieties have become more common, although many of them still undergo decolorization or color adjustment processing.
In the seafood market, the ovaries of madara are sometimes called madarako, and those of sukesodara are called sukeko, to help avoid confusion. However, sukeko is generally 5 to 10 times more expensive than madarako, so it’s rarely mistaken.
Why, then, is sukesodara used instead of the more affordable madara?
There are several reasons. First, madara ovaries are covered with a dark membrane, which makes them look unappetizing when processed. Additionally, they are quite large, which makes it harder for seasonings to penetrate and more difficult to store and handle.
The appearance of Mentaiko
Now let’s take a look at the term mentaiko. In Korea, sukesodara is called myeongtae (명태), and it is said that Japan adopted the name mentaiko to mean “the child of myeongtae” — in other words, Alaska pollock roe.
Mentaiko refers to sukesodara ovaries that have been marinated in a spicy seasoning blend that usually includes chili peppers. In Japan, this is known as karashi mentaiko (spicy mentaiko). According to official labeling standards, only products made from sukesodara ovaries can be labeled as karashi mentaiko. Using roe from other fish would be a violation of fair competition regulations.
It’s worth noting that in eastern Japan (Kanto and northward), karashi mentaiko is commonly abbreviated simply as mentaiko. In contrast, in western Japan (Kansai and beyond), people often refer to tarako as mentaiko, which can lead to some confusion due to regional differences in usage.
Summary
Tarako is made by salting the ovaries of Alaska pollock (sukesodara).Mentaiko, on the other hand, refers to tarako that has been seasoned with chili-based marinades — in other words, spicy karashi mentaiko.So, rather than tarako and mentaiko being entirely different things, it is more accurate to say:Tarako ≠ Mentaiko, but Mentaiko = Spicy Tarako (Karashi Mentaiko).
Besides anago, nitsume is brushed onto sushi toppings that have been simmered in a flavorful liquid, like shako and hamaguri.
In Japanese culinary terms, “nitsumeru” (verb) refers to the process of reducing the liquid content of a sauce containing seasonings by boiling off the moisture, thereby concentrating the flavor and increasing its thickness. Both “eel sauce” and “conger eel nitsume” are sauces made by reducing the liquid content through boiling.
First, you need to understand the difference between eel and conger eel.
In Japanese, the word “unagi” generally refers to a freshwater eel. The scientific name is Anguilla japonica Temminck & Schlegel, 1846. On the other hand, the word “anago” generally refers to the conger eel. Its scientific name is Conger myriaster (Brevoort, 1856).
While both eel sauce and conger eel nitsume are made by reducing liquid through boiling (the process known as nitsumeru), only the latter is traditionally referred to as “nitsume” in sushi restaurants.
So, what is the fundamental difference between them?
Eel sauce (known as unagi sauce or unagi no tare) is a rich, sweet soy sauce-based sauce that is ideal as a dip or drizzling sauce. It does not actually contain any eel ingredients, but it is a sweet, sticky sauce that is perfect as a topping for sushi rolls and other dishes.
“Eel sauce” can refer broadly to both mass-produced sauces and artisan sauces made by eel restaurants. The basic method for making eel sauce is to mix mirin and soy sauce and heat it. Various ingredients such as sake, sugar, tamari soy sauce, water amber, honey, dashi, and potato starch (commercial products often contain thickening agents) are added to create a unique flavor.
Incidentally, most traditional eel restaurants make their eel sauce using only high-quality mirin and soy sauce. This gives the eel a beautiful glaze and subtle sweetness when grilled, as well as a clean aftertaste, which is why it is considered a craftsmanship.
When making kabayaki, the process of applying eel sauce is repeated multiple times. The components of the eel sauce combine with the umami of the eel to create a deeper, more complex flavor. In addition, applying the sauce and grilling it causes chemical reactions such as the Maillard reaction and caramelization, which further enhance the appetizing flavor.
While you can easily buy eel sauce at the market, it’s incredibly easy and tasty to make at home. Eel sauce can be used as a seasoning for other dishes if there is any left over, but it is primarily a sauce specifically made for making kabayaki. By the way, kabayaki is a fish dish where the long-bodied fish is filleted, the central bone removed, skewered, grilled, and then coated with a thick sauce before being grilled again. In Japan, when people say “kabayaki,” they are usually referring to “unagi kabayaki.” Other ingredients used include hamo and anago.
Nitsume is brushed onto nigiri sushi made with anago, shako, shellfish, and other toppings. In sushi restaurants, it is often abbreviated as “tsume.” There are several methods for making nitsume, including reducing the cooking liquid from simmered conger eel, or simmering the head and bones of conger eel to extract the broth, then adding seasonings and reducing it further. In other words, nitsume contains components of conger eel.
Compared to anago, unagi is more flavorful, fatter, and meatier. Moreover, unagi is considered a higher-quality delicacy in Japan and is therefore more expensive. In terms of taste, unagi has a richer, more intense umami flavor. The common opinion is that anago, because of its lighter taste, harmonises better with soured sushi rice and is therefore the preferred choice for making nigiri sushi.
As a side note, while nigiri sushi with eel is common in the Kansai region, eel is not used as a sushi topping in Edomae sushi. Therefore, Edomae sushi restaurants do not serve unagi nitsume.
In summary, unagi (eel) sauce is made by eel restaurants, while anago (conger eel) nitsume is made by sushi restaurants. Eel sauce does not contain eel components, while conger eel nitsume contains conger eel components.
Sujime (酢締め) is a traditional preparation method in which fish is first salted to draw out moisture (Shiojime) and then lightly marinated in vinegar. It is widely used as a sushi topping.
However, the techniques used for Sujime today differ significantly from those of the Edo period. Differences include the amount of time the fish is left with salt and the duration it is soaked in vinegar. Until around the 1980s, it was common practice to soak fish such as mackerel and horse mackerel in vinegar for an extended period. In modern times, thanks to advanced refrigeration technology, fish such as horse mackerel (aji) can now be eaten raw without concern. As a result, the time the fish is salted has been shortened to just a few minutes. Once moisture begins to appear on the surface, it is carefully rinsed off with water. Rather than soaking in vinegar, the fish is quickly dipped, more like a gentle rinse. The goal is to retain the natural flavor of the fish, requiring a delicate and refined touch.
Fish suitable for Sujime are those with a robust umami flavor and a distinctive aroma that can stand up to the acidity of vinegar. Typical examples include blue-backed fish like mackerel, Spanish mackerel, sardines, and gizzard shad. Depending on the case, white-fleshed fish such as barracuda, red seabream, and filefish may also be prepared as Sujime.
There are three main reasons why Sujime is used in sushi restaurants.
The first is preservation. Vinegar has strong antibacterial properties, and before the advent of refrigeration, Sujime was a way to prevent spoilage and extend the shelf life of fish. Vinegar kills bacteria on the surface of the fish, helping to keep it hygienic. Even today, in sushi where raw consumption is the norm, Sujime remains valuable for enhancing food safety.
Second, Sujime plays a key role in reducing unpleasant odors and refining flavor. Blue-backed fish are rich in fat, particularly unsaturated fatty acids found between the skin and flesh. These fats are prone to oxidation, which can cause a strong fishy smell. Additionally, the flesh of fish contains trimethylamine oxide, a naturally odorless compound that, over time and through bacterial action, turns into trimethylamine, which has a strong odor. Eventually, ammonia is also produced, intensifying the smell. Since Trimethylamine is alkaline, treating the fish with acidic vinegar neutralizes it, effectively reducing odor. A quick dip in vinegar removes unwanted smells and balances the umami and acidity, resulting in a more refined taste.
The vinegar causes the proteins in the fish to denature.
Finally, Sujime enhances both the flavor and texture of the fish.
When vinegar is added to fish, the proteins are denatured. The pH of fresh raw fish is around 6, but when it is into vinegar and the pH becomes more acidic. The gaps between the myofibrils decrease because of vinegar, tightening the flesh. This creates a texture and mouthfeel distinct from raw fish.
As the pH continues to drop below 4, the myofibril protein starts to dissolve in the acid, so the flesh becomes soft and mushy. But if the fish is salted and tightened before putting it in vinegar, the myofibrils do not dissolve and remain intact, so the flesh continues to tighten. This is why vinegared- marinated fish looks white.
Furthermore, the acidity of vinegar stimulates the taste buds on the tongue, creating a synergistic effect that brings out sweetness and umami. Even with a short vinegar marinade, a mature aroma and depth are added, giving blue-backed fish such as kohada and mackerel a deep, “mature flavor.”
Sujime is not merely a preservation technique; it is a skilled process that brings out the best qualities of the fish. It is one of the key steps in refining the sushi experience to perfection.
Namero (なめろう) is a traditional local dish from the coastal areas of the Bōsō Peninsula in Chiba Prefecture, which faces the Pacific Ocean.
This region has long been blessed with an abundance of fresh seafood, especially horse mackerel (aji), available year-round.
Originating as a fisherman’s meal, namero was devised to be easily prepared on the unsteady decks of fishing boats, making the most of freshly caught fish.
Main Ingredients and Preparation
The basic recipe involves finely chopping horse mackerel together with miso, green onions, ginger, and sometimes shiso leaves,
then mincing everything together until it becomes sticky and paste-like.
While horse mackerel is commonly used, other blue-backed fish such as sardines, pacific saury, flying fish, yellowtail, and even squid or bonito
are also popular depending on the season and locality.
The use of miso instead of soy sauce has a practical origin—it’s less likely to spill on a rocking boat.
The miso also helps neutralize the strong aroma of oily fish, enhancing only their natural umami flavors.
It is said the name “namero” comes from the phrase “so delicious you’ll want to lick the plate clean.”
Another theory is that the sticky texture makes it hard to scrape off the plate, so you’d have to “lick” it off to finish it.
Misconceptions and Variations
Namero is sometimes confused with “tataki (タタキ),” another chopped fish dish, but they are quite different.
Tataki is usually lightly chopped and often uses soy sauce and vinegar, whereas namero is more thoroughly minced and flavored with miso,
creating a smoother and more cohesive texture.
Over time, regional variations and creative adaptations of namero have emerged.
One notable example is sanga-yaki (山家焼き), a grilled version of namero.
Legend has it that fishermen used to pack leftover namero into abalone shells and grill it in mountain huts while working inland—hence the name “sanga,” meaning “mountain house.”
Another beloved version is “mago-cha (まご茶)” (literally, ‘grandchild tea’), a rustic ochazuke-style dish where namero is placed on hot rice and doused with warm dashi broth.
The name has two possible origins: one being that the dish could be eaten quickly without hesitation (“mago-mago” meaning to fumble),
and the other being that it’s so tasty you’d want to share it with your grandchildren.
The addition of dashi slightly cooks the fish, offering a delightful change in texture and flavor.
Conclusion
Namero is a dish that truly captures the culinary heritage of coastal Chiba, transforming simple, fresh fish into a flavorful and nutritious meal.
With its wide adaptability, regional roots, and deep umami taste, it continues to charm both locals and visitors alike.
Today, it is served as a tsumami (appetizer) in izakayas and sushi restaurants.
Whether enjoyed raw, grilled, or as a comforting bowl of ochazuke, namero remains a timeless symbol of Japan’s rich seafood culture.
