Sujime (酢締め) is a traditional preparation method in which fish is first salted to draw out moisture (Shiojime) and then lightly marinated in vinegar. It is widely used as a sushi topping.
However, the techniques used for Sujime today differ significantly from those of the Edo period. Differences include the amount of time the fish is left with salt and the duration it is soaked in vinegar. Until around the 1980s, it was common practice to soak fish such as mackerel and horse mackerel in vinegar for an extended period. In modern times, thanks to advanced refrigeration technology, fish such as horse mackerel (aji) can now be eaten raw without concern. As a result, the time the fish is salted has been shortened to just a few minutes. Once moisture begins to appear on the surface, it is carefully rinsed off with water. Rather than soaking in vinegar, the fish is quickly dipped, more like a gentle rinse. The goal is to retain the natural flavor of the fish, requiring a delicate and refined touch.
Fish suitable for Sujime are those with a robust umami flavor and a distinctive aroma that can stand up to the acidity of vinegar. Typical examples include blue-backed fish like mackerel, Spanish mackerel, sardines, and gizzard shad. Depending on the case, white-fleshed fish such as barracuda, red seabream, and filefish may also be prepared as Sujime.
There are three main reasons why Sujime is used in sushi restaurants.
The first is preservation. Vinegar has strong antibacterial properties, and before the advent of refrigeration, Sujime was a way to prevent spoilage and extend the shelf life of fish. Vinegar kills bacteria on the surface of the fish, helping to keep it hygienic. Even today, in sushi where raw consumption is the norm, Sujime remains valuable for enhancing food safety.
Second, Sujime plays a key role in reducing unpleasant odors and refining flavor. Blue-backed fish are rich in fat, particularly unsaturated fatty acids found between the skin and flesh. These fats are prone to oxidation, which can cause a strong fishy smell. Additionally, the flesh of fish contains trimethylamine oxide, a naturally odorless compound that, over time and through bacterial action, turns into trimethylamine, which has a strong odor. Eventually, ammonia is also produced, intensifying the smell. Since Trimethylamine is alkaline, treating the fish with acidic vinegar neutralizes it, effectively reducing odor. A quick dip in vinegar removes unwanted smells and balances the umami and acidity, resulting in a more refined taste.
The vinegar causes the proteins in the fish to denature.
Finally, Sujime enhances both the flavor and texture of the fish.
When vinegar is added to fish, the proteins are denatured. The pH of fresh raw fish is around 6, but when it is into vinegar and the pH becomes more acidic. The gaps between the myofibrils decrease because of vinegar, tightening the flesh. This creates a texture and mouthfeel distinct from raw fish.
As the pH continues to drop below 4, the myofibril protein starts to dissolve in the acid, so the flesh becomes soft and mushy. But if the fish is salted and tightened before putting it in vinegar, the myofibrils do not dissolve and remain intact, so the flesh continues to tighten. This is why vinegared- marinated fish looks white.
Furthermore, the acidity of vinegar stimulates the taste buds on the tongue, creating a synergistic effect that brings out sweetness and umami. Even with a short vinegar marinade, a mature aroma and depth are added, giving blue-backed fish such as kohada and mackerel a deep, “mature flavor.”
Sujime is not merely a preservation technique; it is a skilled process that brings out the best qualities of the fish. It is one of the key steps in refining the sushi experience to perfection.
Namero (なめろう) is a traditional local dish from the coastal areas of the Bōsō Peninsula in Chiba Prefecture, which faces the Pacific Ocean.
This region has long been blessed with an abundance of fresh seafood, especially horse mackerel (aji), available year-round.
Originating as a fisherman’s meal, namero was devised to be easily prepared on the unsteady decks of fishing boats, making the most of freshly caught fish.
Main Ingredients and Preparation
The basic recipe involves finely chopping horse mackerel together with miso, green onions, ginger, and sometimes shiso leaves,
then mincing everything together until it becomes sticky and paste-like.
While horse mackerel is commonly used, other blue-backed fish such as sardines, pacific saury, flying fish, yellowtail, and even squid or bonito
are also popular depending on the season and locality.
The use of miso instead of soy sauce has a practical origin—it’s less likely to spill on a rocking boat.
The miso also helps neutralize the strong aroma of oily fish, enhancing only their natural umami flavors.
It is said the name “namero” comes from the phrase “so delicious you’ll want to lick the plate clean.”
Another theory is that the sticky texture makes it hard to scrape off the plate, so you’d have to “lick” it off to finish it.
Misconceptions and Variations
Namero is sometimes confused with “tataki (タタキ),” another chopped fish dish, but they are quite different.
Tataki is usually lightly chopped and often uses soy sauce and vinegar, whereas namero is more thoroughly minced and flavored with miso,
creating a smoother and more cohesive texture.
Over time, regional variations and creative adaptations of namero have emerged.
One notable example is sanga-yaki (山家焼き), a grilled version of namero.
Legend has it that fishermen used to pack leftover namero into abalone shells and grill it in mountain huts while working inland—hence the name “sanga,” meaning “mountain house.”
Another beloved version is “mago-cha (まご茶)” (literally, ‘grandchild tea’), a rustic ochazuke-style dish where namero is placed on hot rice and doused with warm dashi broth.
The name has two possible origins: one being that the dish could be eaten quickly without hesitation (“mago-mago” meaning to fumble),
and the other being that it’s so tasty you’d want to share it with your grandchildren.
The addition of dashi slightly cooks the fish, offering a delightful change in texture and flavor.
Conclusion
Namero is a dish that truly captures the culinary heritage of coastal Chiba, transforming simple, fresh fish into a flavorful and nutritious meal.
With its wide adaptability, regional roots, and deep umami taste, it continues to charm both locals and visitors alike.
Today, it is served as a tsumami (appetizer) in izakayas and sushi restaurants.
Whether enjoyed raw, grilled, or as a comforting bowl of ochazuke, namero remains a timeless symbol of Japan’s rich seafood culture.
Arai is a traditional Japanese sashimi technique in which raw seafood is rinsed in cold or ice water. Also known as “洗鱠” or “洗魚”, this method is especially popular during the summer months for its refreshing taste and texture.
How Arai Is Prepared
In this technique, thinly sliced or shredded fish is placed in a strainer set over a bowl of ice water and washed until the flesh firms and warps. Some chefs also use running water for the rinsing process. The purpose of this rapid chilling is to stimulate the muscle fibers, causing them to contract and tighten, resulting in a firmer texture and improved mouthfeel.
Benefits of the Arai Method
Washing the fish removes surface proteins and lipids, effectively reducing unwanted odors—often caused by the oxidation of fats—and producing a cleaner, lighter taste. Arai is especially well-suited for seafood that has a strong aroma, high fat content, or soft flesh.
Common Seafood Used in Arai
Freshwater fish: Carp (koi) is the most well-known example.
Shrimp: Live kuruma shrimp are sometimes rinsed instead of served raw, offering a firmer texture than odorigui (live sashimi).
Saltwater fish: Japanese sea bass (suzuki), black sea bream (kurodai), and redspotted grouper (akou or kijihata) are commonly prepared as arai to remove their pungent coastal aroma (known as iso-kusasa).
Historical Context
During Japan’s period of rapid economic growth in the postwar Showa era, marine pollution led to concerns about fish having a “petroleum-like” odor. Suzuki was especially affected and often prepared as arai to mask the smell. This historical context helped establish Suzuki no Arai as a quintessential seasonal summer dish in Japanese cuisine.
Freshness Is Essential
Fish used for arai must be extremely fresh and ideally still alive at the time of preparation. After death, fish rapidly lose ATP (adenosine triphosphate), the energy molecule responsible for muscle contraction. Once ATP is depleted, rinsing in cold water no longer causes the muscle fibers to contract, rendering the technique ineffective. The act of washing forcibly removes ATP and induces contraction, resulting in a firmer texture.
A Seasonal Delicacy
The brief rinsing also helps wash away surface fat, balancing the richness of fatty fish and resulting in a crisp, clean flavor. This quality makes arai not only a method of preparation but also an expression of culinary seasonality and refinement, offering a moment of cool relief during Japan’s hot summer months.
Tataki refers to a Japanese cooking method or the dish itself. Among its many variations, Katsuo no Tataki (seared bonito) is by far the most well-known. While the term tataki is also used for dishes made with other ingredients—like meat or vegetables—the preparation method and meaning can vary slightly depending on the context.
The appearance of Katsuo tataki
A Specialty of Kochi Prefecture
Katsuo (bonito), the official fish of Kochi Prefecture, is a beloved local staple. The origin of Katsuo no Tataki is said to lie in the humble meals eaten by fishermen aboard their boats. In times before refrigeration, they developed this method to make slightly aged bonito palatable. Lightly searing the fish helped reduce its fishy odor and enhanced its flavor.
Today, tataki has become a regional specialty. In Kochi, it’s not limited to bonito—local versions include moray eel, meats, shiitake mushrooms, pumpkin, and eggplant, all prepared in a similar style.
How It’s Made—and Why It’s So Good
The key to Katsuo no Tataki lies in its bold yet balanced preparation. Fresh bonito is scaled and filleted into five pieces, then quickly seared on the outside—traditionally over a strong flame fueled by straw. This high-heat method chars the skin, adding a smoky aroma, while keeping the inside rare and tender, like sashimi. After searing, the fish is rapidly cooled in ice water to stop the cooking and firm up the texture.
It’s then sliced and served generously topped with aromatic condiments like green onions, grated ginger, or shiso leaves. Ponzu, a citrus-based soy sauce, is often poured over the top. The contrast between the crisp, smoky exterior and the soft, raw interior creates a mouthwatering harmony of flavors and textures.
“Shio Tataki”: A Kochi Original
The appearance of shio tataki
In Kochi, there’s also a beloved variation called “Shio Tataki” (salt tataki). Instead of ponzu, the seared bonito is simply seasoned with salt—but what truly defines this style is the generous use of raw garlic slices. Typically, two or three slices are placed on each piece of fish. The bold combination of salt and garlic enhances the natural flavor of the bonito, making it incredibly delicious. Garlic also provides antibacterial benefits, which adds a functional layer to its use as a condiment.
The Meaning of “Tataki”
Many people assume that Tataki refers only to fish that’s been seared with straw, but the term originally comes from the act of “tataku” (to pound or slap). In earlier times, when seasonings like soy sauce and salt were expensive, fishermen’s families would rub a small amount into their hands and pound it into the fish to make the flavor penetrate more deeply. That technique—literally pounding the seasoning in—is where the name Tataki comes from.
Even today, after searing and chilling the fish, it’s firm and tightly textured, making it difficult for sauces to soak in. To solve this, the fish is gently pounded with a knife or by hand to help the seasoning absorb. This step is essential and preserves the original spirit of tataki preparation.
Why Straw-Firing Matters
Why is straw preferred over wood for searing? Straw contains natural oils, which produce an intense flame when burned. This allows the fish’s surface to be seared in just seconds, keeping the inside rare—perfect for tataki. Moreover, the fragrant smoke from the straw infuses the fish with a uniquely appealing aroma. The high heat also helps remove excess moisture, concentrating the flavor and improving the texture.
In addition to flavor, searing the surface plays a practical role: it reduces the risk of food poisoning or parasites, making the dish safer to eat.
A major cause of poor performance by sushi restaurants is that the seafood they purchase remains unsold. Instead of being served to customers as sushi or sashimi, it begins to rot and is discarded. When this situation persists, people resort to things they should not do.
It is used as a freshness preservative to extend shelf life because it prevents oxidation of perishable items by absorbing oxygen in a sealed condition. It is used to prevent the deterioration of pharmaceuticals, clothing, cosmetics, etc., so it is not a suspicious chemical, but it is used in the wrong way.
On the other hand, a factor that significantly increases performance is the use of ingredients purchased at low prices and served as overpriced dishes. For example, a food fraud is to offer a lumpfish caviar as a Beluga caviar. This is like exchanging a $1 bill for a $100 bill.
Those who believe in the goodness of human nature may find it hard to accept that such things are happening, but please take a look at the survey results below.
Oceana, a marine conservation organization, previously released a study that found that approximately 60% of supermarkets and restaurants that sell seafood in New York City had some seafood that was different from the product name. The survey involved DNA analysis of 142 seafood samples from 81 supermarkets, food stores, restaurants, and sushi restaurants in New York City. According to the survey, sushi restaurants were found to have the most fish samples that differed from the product names (76%), followed by restaurants (39%), and supermarkets and food stores (29%). The most common type of fish found to be different from the actual product was white tuna. Of the 17 samples of white tuna brought back from sushi restaurants, 16 or 94% were Escola.
By the way, what kind of fish is white tuna in this survey? White tuna does not exist. In Japan, Yake maguro, which died after being caught violently on longlines, is sometimes called so.
Overseas, however, this does not seem to be the case. Often marketed as “white tuna” or “super white tuna,” this is the common name for two species of fish, Escolar (Aburasokomutsu) and Oilfish (Baramutsu). The flesh of Escolar (Aburasokomutsu) and Oilfish (Baramutsu) are rich in taste and can be substantially cheaper than that of other fish species, leading to some vendors intentionally mislabelling it as Butterfish or Cod.
Escolar contains a waxy ester called gempylotoxin which makes up to 90% of the fish’s total fat content and gives it its characteristic texture. Despite its name, gempylotoxin is not poisonous. However, humans can’t digest this waxy substance, and consuming it can lead to stomach cramps, intestinal discomfort, and an unfortunate encounter with the toilet for some individuals.
Oilfish (Baramutsu) has been banned by the Ministry of Health, Labor and Welfare in Japan since 1970 as a food that falls under the Food Sanitation Law and is not distributed. Escolar (Aburasokomutsu) is also a member of the same family, and its sale is prohibited under the same law.
Escolar and Oilfish are sold in supermarkets and is therefore an edible fish in the U.S. and other countries.
In South Korea, where it has been consumed as white tuna, there was a move to amend the law to prohibit its consumption, but it has continued to be distributed disguised as tuna since then. In China, some companies offer this species disguised as salmon and cod. In Taiwan, on the other hand, there are no restrictions on distribution, and the fish is eaten as sashimi. Of course, in the U.S. and other countries, it is sold in supermarkets and is therefore an edible fish.
In other words, the only problem is that cheap fish is disguised as tuna to sell it at a higher price.
The green paste on top of the sushi topping is Atarinegi.
If you are wondering what this term means, you must have had quite a few sushi and Japanese cuisine experiences. Only a few sushi chefs use the word. This may be since the sushi chef who first invented the condiment did not give it a name. Still, it is a very stylish word, so we will explain it in detail.
The appearance of Suribachi
Suribachi (grinding bowl or mortar) is a tool used to crush food. It is widely known to the Japanese public as suribachi. In Japanese culinary circles, the first half of the word suri is avoided and replaced with the word atari. The Japanese word “Suri” means to steal something from someone else’s pocket or wallet quickly in a crowd. It also refers to the person who steals it. In other words, the chefs use the word Ataribachi (当たり鉢) instead of Suribachi (擂鉢).
As a side note, food processors have recently replaced the Ataribachi, but the smoothness of dough prepared in an Ataribachi (grinding bowl) produces a delicious taste that cannot be discarded and has a mouth feel that can never be achieved with a food processor. It is an indispensable cooking utensil for chefs.
Back to Atalinegi. First of all, negi means spring onion, which you know. And atari, as mentioned above, means to grind food in a grinding bowl. In other words, the original meaning refers to a condiment made from ground green onions.
However, in sushi restaurants, the green paste-like condiment found on Horse mackerel (Aji) or Bonito (Katsuo) is sometimes called Atarinegi. It is a condiment that brings out the flavor of Horse mackerel and Bonito even more.
Asatsuki has the most pungent flavor of all leeks, and its leaves are bright green and fragrant.
Atarinegi is made by grinding Asatsuki (Japanese chives) in a grinding bowl until it becomes sticky, then adding squeezed ginger juice. Asatsuki is the most pungent of all edible green onions, and its leaves are bright green and fragrant. Its taste, strange as it may seem, becomes very close to garlic. In Kochi, garlic chips are added to Bonito, so perhaps there is magic in the combination of fish and garlic.
Sushi items such as horse mackerel and sardine have traditionally been topped with spring onion and ginger.
And some sushi chefs have appropriated the name Atarinegi for this condiment. It is so-called Jargon, so that is not the Jargon that all sushi chefs use. This is more common because spring onions and ginger have been placed on top of Nigiri such as Horse mackerel and Sardine for a long time. It counteracts the distinctive fatty smell and enhances only the flavor of the fat, but it requires a lot of spring onions and ruins the appearance of the Nigiri sushi. Therefore, the change to Atarinegi may have been made in order to reduce the amount of spring onions. Shuzou Okada (岡田周三) is said to have invented Atarinegi.
The quality of soy sauce is determined by its clear reddish-brown color.
By the time you know some of the jargon used in sushi restaurants, you are already fully immersed in the world of sushi. The first jargon you will probably learn is Murasaki. Jargon is a word, phrase, or jargon that is understood only among certain professionals and their peers, so it is used among people who work at sushi restaurants. It is not used by customers, of course.
Now, what does Murasaki mean in a sushi restaurant? Actually, “Murasaki” is a jargon for soy sauce. So, we did some research to find out how soy sauce came to be called Murasaki. Originally, soy sauce was a food culture of the late Edo period, so there should be plenty of documentation of its use. However, even after researching, ” Murasaki ” ‘s origin was unclear. There are various theories, but here are some of them.
There is a theory that soy sauce has the alias “Murasaki” because of soy sauce’s reddish-brown color.
In ancient and medieval times, the reddish-brown color was called “purple” in Japan, and the color of soy sauce dropped on a small plate was reddish-brown, which is why soy sauce was called “Murasaki” in Japan.
This may seem surprising since soy sauce appears to be black. Generally, dark soy sauce has a clear reddish-brown color. If you put it in a glass or something and look at it through the light in a bright place, you will see it has a beautiful reddish color.
Some people believe that the alias “Murasaki” for soy sauce comes from purple being a noble color.
During the Edo period, although Edo became the political center of Japan, it still lagged behind Kyoto, Osaka, and other cities in the Kamigata region in terms of culture. The leaders of the Edo shogunate, who wanted to build a unique culture in Edo, apparently conceived the idea of making purple, which had long been considered a symbol of nobility, the symbolic color of Edo culture. It is said that the 8th shogun, Yoshimune, had purple dye studied in the Edo Castle.
It is also known as Edo purple (Edomurasaki), the color of the headband that the main character wears in popular Kabuki performances. There is no reason why the Edomurasaki color used by actors in Kabuki, the greatest entertainment of the Edo period, should not be popular. Edomurasaki is also known as the color that symbolizes the aesthetic sense of the chic Edokko, characterized by its deep blue tone in contrast to the reddish Kyoto purple (Kyomurasaki).
In this way, purple culture grew up in Edo. It is widely believed that this cultural background and the fact that dark soy sauce, which was an expensive and precious seasoning at the time, was almost purple, gave rise to the alias Murasaki. As a synonym for “precious,” dark soy sauce in the Kanto region came to be called Murasaki.
Some people believe that Murasaki, another name for soy sauce, comes from the black soybeans of Tamba.
Tanba no kuromame are large, high-grade soybeans originating from the Tanba region of Hyogo Prefecture. It is said that the name “Murasaki” was derived from the purple color of soy sauce made from these black beans.
There is a theory that the name “Shihou” (It means purple mountain) is derived from the elegant name for Mount Tsukuba.
Shihou is said to have originated from the purple color of the surface of the mountain when illuminated by the setting sun. It is also speculated that purple was an appropriate color for Mt. Tsukuba, which has also been revered as a sacred mountain. The theory is that soy sauce was produced in large quantities near the foot of Mt. Tsukuba during the Edo period, giving soy sauce the alias “Murasaki”. Shihou (紫峰) is also used today in the Shibanuma shoyu brand located at the foot of Mt. Tsukuba.
Finally, it is said that soy sauce came to be called Murasaki actually after the Meiji period (1868-1912). If this is correct, the second theory seems to be wrong. Many soy sauce manufacturers have been around since the Edo period, but their websites do not mention the origin of Murasaki at all. It is Jargon after all, so it is not for outsiders to make claims. In addition to Murasaki, one should avoid using Agari (which means three things in Japanese: Green tea in a sushi restaurant, dead fish, and a finished dish), Oaiso (Check), Namida (Wasabi), and Aniki (sushi material that has been prepped first, i.e., old).
Anisakis is usually found on the surface of internal organs, but can also appear on the surface of the fish.
Anisakis is a parasite of fish and shellfish, including mackerel, horse mackerel, sardines, bonito, squid, cod, saury, flatfish, and salmon. Three groups of parasites, Anisakis simplex, Anisakis physeteris, and Pseudoterranova decipiens, are considered to cause Anisakis disease in Japan. Larvae are elongate, 2~3 cm long and 0.5~1 mm wide, and most are translucent white. The species of Anisakis parasitizing fish and shellfish vary depending on the species of fish, the sea area, and the habitat depth.
Anisakis spawns as adults in the stomachs of whales and other marine mammals. When the eggs are excreted with feces, they hatch in seawater, and the larvae are eaten by krill, where they remain as larvae in the krill-eating seafood. Food poisoning occurs when people eat fish and shellfish parasitized by these larvae.
Three to four hours after infection, symptoms such as upper abdominal pain, nausea, and vomiting appear. These symptoms are now known to be an allergic reaction to the stomach wall and the Anisakis, rather than direct pain caused by the Anisakis piercing the stomach wall.
Mackerel is the most common type of Anisakis disease case reported in sashimi and sushi. In Tokyo, more than half of these cases are caused by Shimesaba (vinegared mackerel). When serving ingredients such as sashimi, chefs need to look carefully with their eyes to see if Anisakis is present and to remove the internal organs. Anisakis may not be visible, so care should be taken. The food items should not be served as sashimi if they are visible.
Anisakis larvae are parasites primarily on the surface of internal organs. They do not move from the internal organs if the fish is cold and near iced, but they may move into the flesh as the fish loses freshness or over time. For this reason, when purchasing (catching) and bringing home, it is important to keep the fish cold with ice or refrigerant to prevent loss of freshness. However, it is important to note that some species of fish, such as Chum salmon (Sake), have Anisakis lurking in their entire body. Sushi chefs know this and do not use it in Nigiri sushi. In addition, it has been hoped that soy sauce, wasabi, and vinegar may be effective in preventing Anisakis disease. However, the insect bodies are not killed by the amount and concentration used in cooking and the time of treatment.
How to Prevent Anisakis
In 1968, the Netherlands mandated by law that herring to be eaten raw in vinegar be frozen at -20 ºC or lower for at least 24 hours before cooking, drastically reducing the number of anisakiasis cases. The U.S. FDA recommends that fish for raw consumption be frozen at -35 °C for 15 hours or at -20 °C for 7 days, while EU health management standards require visual inspection of marine fish for parasites. The EU standard requires visual inspection of marine fish for parasites and directs freezing treatment (at -20 °C or below for at least 24 hours) for marine fish intended for raw consumption. In Japan, heat treatment at 70 °C or higher or 60 °C or higher (for about 1 minute) and freezing at -20 °C or lower for 24 hours or longer are supposed to kill the parasites.
New Technology for Killing Anisakis
Japan Seafoods, a seafood processing company, and Kumamoto University’s Institute for Industrial Nanomaterials Research have jointly developed a method and device to kill Anisakis by using an instantaneous electric power like lightning to kill them in fish meat. The establishment of a new method of killing Anisakis without heating has brought the risk of food poisoning from Anisakis on non-frozen raw sashimi closer to zero. However, challenges remain, such as downsizing the equipment and reducing costs.
Red fish cannot be distinguished even by fish professionals when filleted.
Red fish is a common name for several species of fish. In Japan, it is most commonly applied to certain deep-sea rockfish in the genus Sebastes. Red fish means the word ‘Akauo’ (赤魚). ‘Aka’ (赤) is red, and ‘uo’ (魚) is fish.
Since there are numerous red looking fish, Splendid alfonsino (Kinmedai) and Broadbanded thornyhead (Kichiji) may also be considered Akauo.
Originally, Akauo referred to Akoudai (Sebastes matsubarae Hilgendorf, 1880). This fish is in season during the winter. It was once used as a substitute for Madai or Pacific cod (Madara), but in recent years its catch has declined dramatically and it has become an ultra-premium fish. It is also caught in the Kanto area and is still caught in Tokyo Bay. The term “Akou” for short refers to red-spotted grouper (Kijihata), which is quite confusing. Besides, Akauo is also the standard Japanese name for a species of goby family.
In most cases, the fish sold in the market as Akauo are Pacific ocean perch (Arasukamenuke) and golden redfish (Taiseiyouakauo), which are closely related species frozen and imported from Alaska and Russia. The flesh is white without any particular flavor, and is widely used in dishes such as miso zuke, kasuzuke (pickling in sake lees), shioyaki (grilled with salt), and simmered. Pacific ocean perch (Arasukamenuke), which is caught in the waters around Japan, is also used in Nigiri sushi.
In any case, there is no doubt that red fish is a delicious fish.
＊Sebastes norvegicus (Ascanius, 1772) and Sebastes marinus (Linnaeus, 1758) are the same species.
Modori-gatsuo are those that migrate southward from off Sanriku to the Boso Peninsula from mid-September to late October.
In Japan, bonito is called variously Hatsugatsuo, Modorigatsuo, Mayoigatsuo, Netsukigatsuo, and so on. The quality of the fish is unique depending on the season and size, and bonito lovers will be able to enjoy a variety of flavors throughout the year. Now, bonito, a popular fish since the Edo period, has recently been given a new name, Mochigatsuo, which we have never heard of, and we would like to dig deeper into it.
The quality of bonito cannot be determined until it has been sliced.
As a general rule, one cannot identify a bonito just by looking at it, and even marketers and sushi chefs cannot tell its quality until they try to slice it. In particular, Hatsugatsuo (Noborigatsuo) has greater individual differences than Modori-gatsuo (Kudarigatsuo), and may even be inedible raw due to its distinctive odor. It is called Ishigatsuo or Gorigatsuo. Its flesh is noticeably firmer than normal fish in terms of elasticity. Its flesh is white, pink, or brownish. It also smells very bloody, almost like iron. The cause is currently unknown.
Because of its high hemoglobin and myoglobin content, bonito has a stronger bloody smell than other fish, even if it is not fresh. This richness is due to the high content of nitrogen compounds such as creatine and histidine, in addition to the umami substance inosinic acid. This is the reason for the unparalleled love of bonito.
The fishermen in the town of Susami, Wakayama Prefecture, immediately ikejime each bonito they catch on board, drain the blood out of the fish, and bring it back to the port in a container with its head in seawater ice.
On the other hand, bonito is a representative fish that loses its freshness quickly and is usually flash-frozen immediately after being caught. However, thanks to the tremendous efforts of fishermen, we can now eat fresh bonito. For example, fishermen in the town of Susami, Wakayama Prefecture, immediately ikejime each bonito they catch on board, drain the blood out of the fish, and bring it back to the port in a container with its head in seawater ice for the day’s auction. Kenkengatsuo is the result of thorough techniques for preserving freshness. The same is true of Taru-gatsuo from Hachijojima Island in Tokyo, for example. However, by the time the raw bonito arrives at the sushi restaurant to be made into Nigiri sushi, 12 hours have passed since the fish was caught. This time is critical to the quality of the fish.
So what kind of bonito is Mochi-gatsuo?
Hatsugatsuo has a refreshing, spring breeze-like flavor. Some of them are called “Mochigatsuo”, a type of bonito whose flesh is elastic and has the texture of freshly pounded rice cakes. Originally, bonito is caught far offshore, but in the spring, it comes much closer to land, so it can be brought to port before it becomes rigor mortis. Not all bonito are Mochi-gatsuo, however, and only a few are part of the same school, making them extremely rare. According to one theory, they are eaten before rigor mortis, which occurs four to five hours after the catch. Its season is from March to June, and it is consumed locally, as it is difficult to ship to distant places.
The name is also wonderful, as it compares the flesh of the bonito to a Mochi (rice cake). So far, the name “Mochigatsuo” is only used in Wakayama and Shizuoka regions. If you have a chance, you would like to try it.
Large fishing vessels sail the Pacific Ocean year-round in pursuit of bonito (Skipjack tuna). The fishing method is divided into pole-and-line fishing and purse seine fishing. Pole-and-line fishing involves spreading live bait such as Japanese anchovy to attract schools of skipjack tuna, which are then caught in large numbers with the rod in a short period. Because of the need to keep live bait for a long period, this fishing method was limited to the waters around Japan for many years. Still, recent technological advances have also made pole-and-line fishing possible in southern waters.
The bonito caught in the waters around Japan is called Higashi-no-mono. This follows sardines and other fish that serve as bait and come north from the waters around the Philippines. The bonito called Nanpo-mono also approaches the waters around Japan from off Micronesia and other areas. This one is mainly caught by large vessel purse seine fishing. In purse seine fishing, the bonito rub against each other before being hauled on board, easily damaging the flesh. As a result, the fish may be less fresh and damaged than when caught pole-and-line fishing.
Vessels that take skipjack are equipped with sophisticated refrigeration facilities. There is a pool of brine solution, a salt solution with a concentration of about 20%, on board. The flash-frozen skipjack is called B1. After being thawed and filleted, the fish is rigor mortis, which means it is extremely fresh and is distributed as high-quality frozen skipjack for raw consumption. Of course, they are also very expensive. In addition, when caught, the blood is removed and the fish is flash-frozen, called S1, and is distributed as a higher quality product than B1.
Only carefully selected skipjack and those frozen under strict freezing conditions are marketed as B1, while skipjack that is frozen in the same freezer but not according to B1 standards is distinguished from B1 and referred to as B. Incidentally, B1 and B are caught by pole-and-line fishing. There is another type of frozen bonito called PS. This is not caught by pole-and-line fishing but by purse seine fishing. It is not in as good condition as pole-and-line fishing, but it is handled with care and has few scratches.
In summary, Bonito (skipjack) originally deteriorated quickly and was difficult to distribute fresh, but improvements in freezing technology and other factors have ensured that the quality is close to fresh.
The vinegar used for Vinegared rice is basically rice vinegar or red vinegar. Mizkan, which contributed greatly to the development of Edomae sushi, is still a famous vinegar manufacturer.
When we think of vinegar, a sour taste immediately comes to mind, but vinegar is not only sour, it also contains a variety of ingredients and has a mild taste. There are also many different types of vinegar, each with its unique flavor. Just as beer is made from barley and wine from grapes, vinegar has a variety of flavors, aromas, and richness depending on the ingredients.
Acetic acid is the predominant acidity, with other organic acids such as gluconic and citric acid also present. It also contains lactic acid, succinic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, and citric acid, each with a different taste. Lactic acid has an astringent taste, while citric acid has a refreshing sour taste. These mix to form a complex sour taste. Adding even more variety to the sourness are the ingredients that the raw materials originally contained, such as sweetness, umami, richness, and aroma. Rice vinegar is particularly rich in carbohydrates and proteins, while black vinegar is rich in amino acids and various organic acids. These diverse flavors combine to create the flavor of vinegar.
By the way, we believe that what is required of vinegar used for sushi rice (vinegared rice) are two contradictory characteristics: refreshing and full-bodied. When sushi chefs prioritize richness, they use red vinegar or black vinegar with high amino acid content. However, this is a far cry from the light and refreshing taste that was originally sought in nigiri sushi. Therefore, sushi chefs try to solve the contradictory problem by mixing kinds of vinegar.
Various studies have also found amino acids such as glutamic acid, peptides, fat, glycogen, and alliin as substances that strengthen the richness. To make delicious nigiri sushi, the ingredients of sushi toppings and condiments must also be taken into consideration. It is not enough to focus only on vinegar. Of course, sushi chefs are not food researchers, so they have never conducted a quantitative analysis of amino acid content.
According to papers on the taste of vinegar by Masao Fujimaki, professor emeritus at the University of Tokyo, Ryuzo Ueda, associate professor at Osaka University, and Hiroshi Masai of Mizkan, amino acids exhibit a variety of flavors and are closely related to the unique taste of various foods. It is said that there are more than 20 kinds of amino acids that make up proteins, and 17 kinds of free amino acids exist in vinegar, which affects the taste of each vinegar.
Rice vinegar is composed mainly of more than 10 amino acids, including glutamic acid, arginic acid, and aspartic acid. Among them, glutamic acid produces a delicious taste. Glutamic acid not only makes vinegar tasty but also works synergistically with the umami component to make nigiri sushi even tastier. Furthermore, the amino acid also acts on the slight sweetness of the vinegar and makes the overall taste milder and milder. In this respect, it can be said that the taste of rice vinegar is determined by the amount of amino acids present in the vinegar.
Although the amount of rice used as a raw material and the characteristics of the alcohol added during the production process are also important factors in increasing amino acids, at least standing fermentation (or static Fermentation) is a particularly important condition. Therefore, we surveyed Japanese vinegar manufacturers that use standing fermentation. Many sushi chefs use these vinegars. However, which vinegar is used as the main ingredient and what it is mixed with is, of course, a trade secret. And for fish preparation, vinegar made from brewing alcohol and containing almost no amino acids produced by fast fermentation is more refreshing. Again, it is not just a matter of focusing on the amount of amino acids.
List of Japanese Vinegar Manufacturers using Standing fermentation
Edomae sushi (Nigiri sushi) in the Edo period was about twice the size of today’s sushi.
We recently read a sushi article in one of the Food media and were amazed that there are still media outlets out there that are so misinformed. If taken dispassionately, it may be a reprinted article or an article created by a generated AI. Also, food writers who use arguments like “I live in Japan” or “I know sushi well because I have been to over 500 sushi restaurants” are not to be trusted in their articles.
Nigiri sushi originated about 200 years ago, but in fact, it can be said that no book comprehensively describes it. The only information available is the diaries of the samurai and aristocrats of the time, which are only a few lines of text. As proof of this, it is not even certain who started making nigiri sushi, and there are many theories. In other words, there is a possibility that it has been rewritten to suit their convenience.
Depending on whether sushi is classified in terms of its history or terms of its production method, the types of sushi will naturally differ. If we discuss in a confused state, we will not reach a single conclusion. Vinegar was produced by the natural fermentation of fish and grains for preservation purposes. This is the form of sushi when it originated. It must have originated in China, Southeast Asia, or somewhere in between. In Nigiri sushi, however, vinegar made from sake lees or other ingredients is added to cooked rice. Even if we focus the argument only on vinegar, there is no way to say that they are both the same food.
This article was rudimentary in that there are several types of sushi, including Nigiri sushi, Maki, Roll sushi, Inari sushi, Chirashi sushi, and Sashimi. As you already know, Sashimi is not a type of sushi. It is a typical Japanese dish. And this misunderstanding of Sashimi leads to a wrong understanding of Nigiri sushi. No one does not know what Nigiri sushi is. However, many people think that Nigiri sushi is Sashimi on top of vinegared rice (sushi rice). This is also a big mistake. Sushi topping can be made of vegetables or seafood, but without vinegared rice, it is not Nigiri sushi. We would like to remind you of this.
Moving on to our main topic, you may not have heard of Edomae sushi. It refers to Nigiri sushi, which originated in the Edo period (1603-1867), and although there have been some changes in the sushi ingredients, everything else has remained the same as when it originated. Together with maki sushi, which originated about 50 years later, it is now called Edomae sushi. The reason for the name “Edomae” is explained below.
So, except for the maki sushi story, Edomae sushi means Nigiri sushi. At the time when Edomae sushi originated, there was no such thing as a refrigerator, so it was not possible to refrigerate sushi toppings. It was natural to treat seafood for preservation. For example, we boiled Kuruma prawn (Kuruma ebi) and simmered Japanese conger (Anago).
Sashimi is a small piece of seafood, raw, with only the skin and bones removed. On the other hand, in Edomae sushi, the Sushi ingredients are treated in some way. We think the simplest treatment is to sprinkle salt on the seafood. This is one of the basic cooking methods practiced around the world. However, when making Sashimi, basic salt is not used. For more information on other processing methods, please check below.
Horse mackerel (Aji) and Mackerel (Saba), which lose their freshness rapidly, were preserved by soaking in vinegar until 50 years ago. Recently, however, they are served as close to fresh as possible. Even today, some Aji and Saba are still vinegared, but they are rare.
After the Great Kanto Earthquake, the Edomae sushi chefs lost their workplaces and went to the countryside to look for work. However, the local people did not understand the need to go to the trouble of preparing fresh seafood, and they gradually began to use raw sushi topping. Nowadays, the use of raw sushi topping is the norm in rural areas of Japan. Even the concept of “Edomae sushi” does not exist in the regions.
Conveyor-belt sushi, now a mainstream segment of the sushi industry, uses raw sushi toppings to save time and effort in preparing them, in other words, to cut costs. Or perhaps it is because farmed fish is not suitable for aging. It may be because Japan has a culture that values freshness, and fish is unusually valued for its freshness compared to meat and vegetables. Salmon, the standard sushi topping in other countries, is also used raw. It is not sprinkled with salt to reduce excess water and odor components.
Strictly speaking, these are not Edomae sushi (Nigiri sushi). They are called Sashimi vinegared rice. If we may add one more thing, there has been a shift from processing for preservation to processing to bring out the umami.
The tastiest and most highly utilized Katsuo are Ma-gatsuo and Hon-gatsuo.Anyone can tell a fish is a different species if it looks different. However, there are cases where the appearance is so similar that you can’t just inadvertently make a mistake. That is when there are several species and the difference in value is significant. In the past, the fish was used as a fish fraud, and even today it is often used as a substitute.
So, the marketer adds the prefix Hon (本) in the name of a fish or shellfish to avoid confusion with a substitute. One of the meanings of the Japanese word “hon” is “genuine,” so this may have something to do with it.
For example, Hon-zuwaigani refers to Zuwaigani, which has a shorter fishing season and a much higher price than Beni-zuwaigani. To avoid confusion with Beni-zuwaigani, which has a similar name, the Hon is added to emphasize the fact that it is Zuwaigani.
Other fish names begin with the letter Hon.
・Hon-mirugai is Mirugai clam (Mirugai). To avoid confusion with Shiro-mirugai, which was considered a substitute for Mirugai in the past, Hon is added to emphasize the fact that it is Mirugai. Recently, however, the catch of Shiro-mirugai has been decreasing, and the price of Mirugai has skyrocketed.
・There are five main types of tuna distributed in Japan, including Minamimaguro, Mebachi, Kihada, and Binnaga, of which Kuro (kuro means black)-maguro, the largest, is considered the finest. As the name suggests, half of the fish’s body is black from the back to the lateral line, so it is so-called.
About 2 million tons of tuna are caught annually worldwide, but Kuro-maguro is only about 1% of that amount. Originally, maguro meant Kuro-maguro, but other species (Mebachi, Kihada, etc.) are now distributed, and to distinguish them from Kuro-maguro, what was originally called maguro is now called Hon-maguro.
・Aka-kamasu, also called Hon-kamasu, is considered the most delicious of the kamasu family and is sold at high prices in the market. On the other hand, Yamato-kamasu, also called Mizu-kamasu, is a little less tasty, and the name seems to be used to distinguish Yamato-kamasu from Aka-kamasu.
・The official name of the family Pandalidae called Amaebi is Hokkoku-akaebi. It is widely found from the coast of Hokkaido to Toyama Bay and the eastern coast of the Korean Peninsula. It is widely found from the coast of Hokkaido to Toyama Bay and the eastern coast of the Korean Peninsula.
・Akagai is simply called Tama, Hon-dama, Hon-aka, etc. in the Toyosu market. There is also a Bachi-akagai that is very similar to the Akagai, but its real name is Satogai, which is not as red as Akagai and is smaller in size. Satogai is often mixed in with hon-dama and are called Bachi-akagai from Bachigai (it means out of place).
Finally, some seafood uses both Hon and Ma.
For example, there are four species of bonito: Katsuo, Suma-gatsuo, Marusouda-gatsuo, and Hirasouda-gatsuo. The tastiest and most highly utilized Katsuo are Ma-gatsuo (katsuo) and Hon-gatsuo (katsuo).
Ma-aji is the most commonly caught and represented species of Japanese Aji species.
Fish names include scientific names, standard Japanese names, local names, and foreign names.
Scientific names are the scientific names of organisms. They are written in Latin for international uniformity. They are also listed in fish-illustrated books. Standard Japanese names are defined by the Ichthyological Society of Japan. Local names are various names given to one species in different regions. In addition, when looking at English and French names, they do not correspond to species as in the Japanese standard Japanese name, and it is not uncommon for different species to have the same English name, or for multiple species to be called by the same English name. It is rare in the world that each fish species has its standard Japanese name, as is the case in Japan.
In addition to standard Japanese names and regional names, fish names unique to the Japanese language are sometimes used. For example, you have probably heard of the fish named Aji (鯵). Then is Ma-aji (真鯵) a different fish?
Actually, they are the same fish. The “Ma” in the name of a fish or shellfish indicates that it is the most representative, the most superior, or the most valuable among the many related species. The Chinese character “真” means “genuine.
For example, a total of 146 species of horse mackerels have been identified, including Japanese scad (Maru-aji), Bigeye scad (Me-aji), White trevally (Shima-aji), Amberstripe scad (Muro-aji), Red Scad (Aka-aji), Roughear scad (Oakamuro-aji), Great trevally (Gingame-aji), and Torpedo scad (Oni-aji). Ma-aji is the most commonly caught and represented species of Japanese Aji species.
There are other fish names beginning with Ma, which are briefly introduced below.
・Ma-iwashi (真鰯) is a representative of sardines (Katakuchi-iwashi, Urume-iwashi, etc.).
・Kaki refers to Ma-gaki (真牡蠣). Ma-gaki is in season during the cold season and is mostly farm-raised, but there is a type of Kaki that is in season during the summer. It is called Iwa-gaki (岩牡蠣) and is characterized by its larger shells and meat compared to Ma-gaki.
・Anago with high market value are Ma-anago (真穴子), Goten-anago (御殿穴子), and Kuro-anago (黒穴子), but it is safe to assume that most Anago used in sushi restaurants are Ma-anago.
