For sushi beginners | Sushiblog－Sushiuniversity

Why do we use the counter “kan (貫)” for sushi?

When you sit at the counter and order nigiri a la carte, they will come out in pairs.* There is nothing wrong with counting these in the regular Japanese way “ikko (一個),” “niko (二個).”

*It is said that nigiri-sushi in the Edo period was bigger than it is today, and too big to eat in one bite. In the Meiji period, the custom emerged of splitting this one big portion into two to make more easily consumed portions, and this is why it is common to get sushi in sets of two. However, nowadays making one piece of nigiri-sushi at a time is not very efficient. We think it’s actually easier for the sushi restaurant to make them in sets of two. Of course, you can order them one by one.

But the sushi restaurant won’t count them like that. Formally, sushi is counted in this way: Ikkan (one piece), Nikan (two pieces).

We have absolutely no idea where the custom of using the “kan” counter came from. It’s also not clear when use of that counter for sushi started.

Of course, there are theories. For example, there is a theory that back at a time when a single unit of money was called “kan.” The price for one piece of sushi was around 1 ‘kan’, and the counting method gained popularity.

Let me explain in more detail. The term “kan” originally referred to a unit of weight, with 1 kan equaling approximately 3.75 kilograms. It was also used as a unit of currency, with 1,000 mon coins being called “1 kanmon.” During the Edo period, sushi was sold at stalls, and the price per piece was expressed as ‘mon’ or “kanmon.” It is believed that this price unit was later repurposed as a unit of quantity.

Incidentally, when sushi first appeared, most sushi restaurants were food stalls, and the price ranged from 4 mon (120 yen in current currency) to 8 mon (240 yen) per piece. The most expensive topping at the time, otoro, did not suit the tastes of the people and was discarded, while omelette (tamagoyaki) at 16 mon (480 yen) were the most expensive topping.

There is another theory that one sushi roll was counted with the counter for roll “巻” (also pronounced “kan”), then a different kanji was used for it later. However, these are just theories that were created after the fact and the mystery remains unsolved.

In addition, sushi restaurants are a world where the culture of craftsmanship remains strong, and there is a background of using specialized terminology to maintain formality and tradition. Rather than using terms such as “1 plate (hito sara)” or “1 piece (ikko),” using the term ‘1 kan’ gives a more “chic (粋)” impression and is said to embody the tradition and aesthetic sense of sushi culture. However, this is the reason why it is still used today.

Even if you ask the owner of a sushi restaurant, they’ll probably cock their head to one side, think for a moment, and tell you that the “kan” mystery may never be solved.

Sushi rolls wrapped in seaweed rolls are counted in units of 本 (hon/bon/pon) in the wrapped state, and when cut with a knife, the units change to 切れ (kire). While these units are fairly straight-forward for Japanese language speakers and easy to understand, only the enigmatic 貫 (kan) remains a mystery.

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Revision date: June 18, 2025

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What is the difference between “鮨,” “鮓” and “寿司” (all ready “Sushi”).

As far as we know, there are three ways “sushi” is written on sushi restaurant curtains in Japanese kanji characters: 鮨, 鮓 and 寿司.

Do you know the difference? Most Japanese people don’t know the answer to this question.

This is because various spellings are used by sushi restaurants throughout Japan.

For example, in Hokkaido, “鮨” is used. Next, in Tohoku, Akita and Yamagata use “鮨,” Aomori, Iwate, and Fukushima use “すし,” and Miyagi uses “寿司.”

In Kanto, Gunma, Saitama, Tokyo, and Kanagawa use “鮨,” Ibaraki and Chiba use “すし,” and Tochigi uses “寿司.” The spellings vary by prefecture.

Incidentally, among the 42 prefectures (excluding Nara, Wakayama, Kochi, Saga, and Okinawa), the most common spelling is “鮨” with 20, followed by “すし” with 17, ‘寿司’ with 4, and “鮓” with 1.

Broadly, in the Kanto area 鮨 is generally used while 鮓 is more common in Kansai. 寿司 is used commonly everywhere in Japan.

On the other hand, of the three, only 鮨 and 鮓 are seen in ancient Chinese literature. 鮨 was seen as a dictionary entry as early as the 5th to 3rd centuries B.C., and it’s origin is described as combining “fish” and “shiokara” (briny flavor) resulting in the term 鮨.

On the other hand, in A.D. 1st to 2nd century dictionaries, “鮓” appeared, and is explained to depict “a storage container for fish.” Toward the end of the second century 鮓 was used for the term “narezushi”.

But around the third century, the briny meaning of 鮨 and the term “narezushi*” written as 鮓 started to be used interchangeably. That is how the words were imported to Japan.

In Japan, the character “鮓” was often used in literature from the end of the Heian era to the end of the Edo era. Eventually the use of “鮨” was revived during the Meiji era (for unknown reasons). It was a natural transition that Kanto came to use “鮨” and Kansai came to use “鮓”.

Incidentally, the kanji “寿司” was created from the phonetics. Its use for celebratory occasions became commonplace throughout Japan.

*”Narezushi (熟れ寿司)” is the primitive version of Japanese sushi. It means covering seafood with salt and then soaking in rice for a few years as a form of lactic acid fermentation, which brings out the acidity.

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Revision date: May 31, 2025

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Why are two pieces of nigiri sushi made at once?

Have you ordered Nigiri sushi and been served two pieces on one plate?

A photo of Conveyor belt sushi — One plate has two pieces of nigiri sushi.

This isn’t something that happens at a conveyor belt sushi restaurant. It can happen at a sushi restaurant with a counter.

There are multiple theories as to the reason for this, but the most likely one is as follows.

The reason sushi is served in sets of two pieces is that this practice is left over from long ago (the Edo period), when pieces of sushi were made large, like onigiri, and difficult to eat. At some point (it’s unclear when), these were just cut in half, making two pieces that led to what we see today (there are multiple theories about when this happened).

However nowadays, if you were to eat two pieces of each topping, you won’t be able to enjoy as many different kinds, so customers sitting at the counter are served only one piece at a time. So then why do other restaurants continue to prepare two pieces at once? This may be in order to improve the efficiency of the sushi chef’s work. Also, regular customers may see toppings others are ordering and ask for the same one. This helps reduce the workload of the sushi chef.

But there are also some toppings that are better to eat in pairs.

For example, conger eel tastes completely different when one piece is eaten with salt and the other seasoned with sweet sauce. Serving the part of the eel closer to the head skin-up and the part closer to the tail belly-up also offers different textures; skin-up offers a smooth texture while belly-up offers a fluffy texture. In addition, the head and tail simply taste differently. Since the back and belly of fish like bonito and mackerel have different fat content, it can be better to order two pieces at a time in order to fully experience each of the individual qualities of the fish.

The sushi chefs at your favorite restaurant know your preferences well. Depending on the type of fish, they may serve you two pieces of the back side, which has a more fishy flavor, without saying anything.

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Revision date: May 29, 2025

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Is sushi eaten with your hands? Or should you use chopsticks?

A photo of Edo-period nigiri sushi — This is Edo-period nigiri sushi, similar in size to onigiri.

During the Edo period in Japan, nigiri sushi became extremely popular and was sold at street stalls (yatai). It was similar to what we now call onigiri, eaten by hand. The term “onigiri” was used because the nigiri sushi of that time was about two to three times larger than today’s version. After finishing their meal, customers are said to have wiped their hands on the stall’s curtain (noren). As an aside, historical records describe Edo as a rather unsanitary city at the time, and this practice serves as evidence of that.

a photo of hand-washing devices (groove) — This is hand-washing devices (groove).

Later, in the 1950s, sushi restaurants began installing hand-washing devices (grooves) on the customer side of the counter. Instead of using hand towels, customers would wash their hands in the water and moisten their fingers before eating sushi. Some traditional sushi restaurants in rural areas still have these grooves today.

A photo of uni nigiri sushi — Recently, some high-end sushi restaurants have started serving nigiri sushi directly from the sushi chef.

Recently, some high-end sushi restaurants have started serving nigiri sushi directly from the sushi chef. This is particularly common with delicate ingredients like uni, which are prone to falling apart. In this case, customers are forced to eat nigiri sushi with their hands.

In the old days, Sushi was originally a food eaten with your hands.

a photo of Yubifuki — Yubifuki refers to cloths or gauze provided mainly at sushi restaurants for customers to keep their fingertips clean while eating sushi.

Even, for example, if you are in a prestigious sushi restaurant in Ginza, you can still eat with your hands. You can actually use your hands to eat the ginger (gari) too (Some guidebooks state that gari should be eaten with chopsticks, but no sushi chefs would ever say such a thing). Restaurants that prefer you to eat with your hands will provide an extra, smaller towel called yubifuki for cleaning your hands between sushi, along with the normal hand towel (Oshibori towel). Even then, feel free to use chopsticks if you prefer.

Anyway, using chopsticks for the first time can be challenging, but don’t worry – here is the ultimate guide to becoming an expert at picking up your favorite sushi without damaging it. You’ll learn how to use chopsticks like a pro.

Follow these simple steps to use chopsticks like an expert:

Hold the chopsticks by their thickest end.
Place the chopstick on the lower end of your hand in the gap between your thumb and index finger.
The chopstick on the top goes on the fingerprint of the thumb and index finger.
To pick each piece of sushi, move the upper stick with the help of your thumb, index, and middle fingers.

Follow the steps above and soon, you’ll be the one teaching your friends! Now you know how to pick up nigiri sushi with chopsticks!

We hope this information will be helpful.

Revision date: June 17, 2025

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Some notes on chopstick manners

There are manners in using chopsticks that tourists may be unaware of. We would like to introduce some of those here.

First of all, it is impolite to place chopsticks on your dish in the middle of a meal. Make sure to place them back on the chopstick stand when you aren’t using them.

It is also poor manners to stab food with chopsticks (Sashi-bashi) and or to use chopsticks to look through dishes. Please avoid breaking up the beautifully arranged dishes when you eat.

The improper use of chopsticks

1. Passing foods (Hiroi-bashi or Awase-bashi): Never use your chopsticks to take something from someone else’s chopsticks. This way of passing things relates to Japanese funerary customs (Kotsuage).

2. Drawing plates or bowls near you (Saguri-bashi): Don’t draw a plate or bowl toward you with chopsticks.

3. Touching foods unnecessarily (Utsuri-bashi): Don’t touch foods with chopsticks unnecessarily without eating them.

4. Scooping: Don’t scoop up food by using chopsticks like a spoon and bring them to your mouth.

5. Shoveling food into the mouth (Komi-bashi): Don’t put your lips on a plate or bowl and shovel food into your mouth with chopsticks.

6. Picking up plates or bowls while holding chopsticks (Nigiri-bashi): Don’t pick up a plate or bowl while holding chopsticks.

7. Pointing at someone (Sashi-bashi): Don’t point at someone with chopsticks.

8. Laying chopsticks across a plate or bowl: Don’t lay chopsticks across a plate or bowl.

9. They stuff their mouth full of food and push it in with chopsticks (Oshikomi-bashi).

10. Lick the chopstick tips (Neburi-bashi).

11. Hold it with chopsticks while dripping the cooking juices (Namida-bashi).

12. Eating the same food over and over again (Kasane-bashi).

Related contents: SUSHI RESTAURANT ETIQUETTE

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Revision date: March 1, 2024

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Is there a certain order for eating sushi?

How to eat sushi properly

During the Edo period when Nigiri sushi originated, it was sold in food stalls. People chose the sushi topping they wanted and satisfied their hunger. There is no such thing as the order of eating. In the first place, there are no rules about how to eat food.

The order in which the food is eaten is at the discretion of the eater.

You can eat Nigiri sushi in any order you like. We dare say that the order of eating dessert first, then the main meat or fish dish, and finally the appetizers is not a good one. Something similar to this even exists in Nigiri sushi.

Recently, Nigiri sushi has become a mainstream dish served in the Omakase course, in which the sushi chef has thought of the best order to eat the sushi. In this case, the sushi chef has thought of the best order in which to eat the sushi. The eater is left to his/her own choice.

Since when do we care about the order of eating?

This is due to the internationalization of Nigiri sushi. Everyone is taught how to eat a dish for the first time. And if you don’t know much about sushi topping, it is only natural that you would want to know more about it.

Generally, start by eating fish with a lighter flavor like white fish and move onto fish with a heavier flavor such as Toro, Uni, Japanese conger (Anago), and then Egg (Tamagoyaki). Finishing with Seaweed rolls at the end is a typical way.

The following menu is an Omakase style at the Former 3 Michelin star restaurant in Ginza. Since Sayori is offered, one can imagine that the season is early spring. This menu is composed of sushi topping that changes as the seasons change.

Begin with white fish?

Marbled flounder (Makogarei)

Striped jack (Shima aji)

Golden cuttlefish (Sumi ika)

Akami

Chutoro

Otoro

Gizzard shad (Kohada)

Common orient clam (Nihamaguri)

Horse mackerel (Aji)

Kuruma prawn (Kuruma ebi)

Japanese halfbeak (Sayori)

Common octopus (Madako)

Mackerel (Saba)

Ark shell (Akagai)

Uni

Salmon roe (Ikura)

Japanese conger (Anago)

And Omelette (Tamagoyaki) comes last, just along the general order. Perhaps the way this owner serves might have become common.

To maximize each flavor of toppings, have some pickled ginger or hot tea between different types of sushi to cleanse your palate. You don’t have to stick to the specific order, though. It seems like having customers eat freely is the idea held in common by most sushi chefs. However, indeed, you won’t be able to taste the next flavor after eating something rather sweet. Japanese conger (Anago), Egg (Tamagoyaki), and Kanpyoumaki should be eaten at the end.

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Revision date: January 29, 2024

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Drinking tea makes sushi taste better!

The Hidden Role of Tea in Sushi Dining

A photo of Green tea — Tea is always served with nigiri sushi.

Even if you order beer or sake at a sushi restaurant, your meal will almost always end with a cup of tea. But if you’re going out for sushi, consider drinking that tea earlier, rather than saving it for the end. At sushi restaurants, tea is more than just a simple beverage—it plays an essential role, especially when enjoying fatty cuts like tuna or bonito. It offers benefits that beer and sake simply can’t match.

Why Temperature Matters

One key reason lies in the temperature.

Hot tea helps dissolve the residual fat left on your tongue after eating fatty sushi. This thin layer of fat coats your taste buds like a film, dulling your ability to fully enjoy the flavors of the next bite. Beer and sake, no matter how much you drink, are ineffective at removing this film. But hot tea melts the fat and washes it away, essentially resetting your palate. In that sense, tea serves as a kind of preparation for fully appreciating each new piece of sushi.

Tea’s Antibacterial Benefits

Another reason hot tea is ideal—particularly when paired with raw fish—comes from its antibacterial properties. Tea contains catechins, natural compounds with strong antibacterial effects that can kill many of the bacteria responsible for food poisoning.

Foodborne bacteria are generally divided into two types: toxin-type, which causes illness when bacterial toxins are ingested, and infection-type, which results when live bacteria infect the intestinal tract. Catechins combat both: they neutralize toxins from toxin-type bacteria and destroy the cell membranes of infection-type bacteria, reducing the risk of illness.

Catechins are a type of polyphenol, responsible for tea’s astringency and bitterness. They are especially abundant in green tea, where they account for about 85% of the total polyphenol content.

The amount of catechin extracted depends on the brewing temperature. They are not easily extracted at low temperatures or in cold water but become more soluble as the temperature rises. Brewing tea at 80°C (176°F) or higher maximizes catechin extraction and, in turn, enhances its health benefits. That’s one reason tea is typically served hot—not just in sushi restaurants, but in many other Japanese eateries as well.

The Origin of Oversized Teacups

Here’s another interesting detail: the teacups used in sushi restaurants are typically larger than standard teacups. This tradition dates back to when sushi chefs operated small stands on their own and didn’t have enough hands to constantly refill cups while also preparing sushi. The oversized cups helped minimize refills and keep service efficient.

And to be perfectly frank, there may have been a practical motive as well—if customers fill up on tea, which is easy to drink, they might end up eating less sushi, the main (and more profitable) attraction.

How do you order at a sushi restaurant?

The sushi restaurant is unusual in that the customer sitting at the counter can see the seafood (neta) from which individual servings will be made, and can watch the chef deftly perform his art while enjoying lively conversation. Sushi restaurants also differ from other restaurants when it comes to menus.

Typically there aren’t any.

If the customer is inclined to worry about what the bill will come to, he orders Okimari (combination set)*. This consists of 7 to 10 pieces of nigiri-sushi and nori-maki selected by the proprietor in such a way as to allow them to offer an affordable price. It is cheaper because, like ready-made clothes, Okimari is not necessarily made piece by piece to fill individual orders. Of course, it will not be of inferior quality. Okimari is prepared by the chef and his assistants in the same way that everything else the shop is prepared. If the diner still wants more, they are always free to order sushi of their choice (Okonomi). Generally Japanese customers eat no more than 10 pieces of nigiri-sushi.

People at the counter most often order Okonomi (a la carte)**, which may be likened to having suits tailor-made from the finest fabrics. The customer who orders only the best will find that the check at the end can get a little expensive. But this is worth remembering (sushi worth eating is never inexpensive).

Long ago people used to say that first ordering Okimari and then ordering Okonomi after was the best deal for eating sushi, but that is a thing of the past. Actually, there are more and more shops that don’t allow Okonomi orders. The only choice is Omakase***. In some cases, all customers sitting at the counter take their seats at the same time and eat the same dishes and the same sushi in the same order. Even if you know nothing about sushi toppings, if you leave it to a master sushi chef, they will provide you with a combination boasting a good balance of early, peak and late season sushi. Omakase is great as it allows you to concentrate on genuinely enjoying the sushi and, especially if you’re visiting a shop for the first time, there will be no confusion regarding the best dishes.

*Okimari－The price and menu content are easily understood when ordering “Okimari”. The rank of “Tokujou”, “Jou”, “Nami” are often used. Order additional sushi as you like for a more fulfilling experience.

**Okonomi－A way customers choose and order sushi they want to eat. If you clearly know what you like and want to enjoy eating at your own pace, ordering “Okonomi” your choice of sushi, would be best.

***Omakase－If you don’t have any preferences, and you are happy to have a professional choose the most delicious toppings from that day’s catch, then ask for Omakase.

Related contents：What are Omakase, Okonomi and Okimari?

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Revision date: January 26, 2021

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Why is it important to avoid wearing too much perfume?

The Art of Scent in Sushi Dining: A Matter of Courtesy and Respect

Etiquette for eating sushi — Refraining from wearing perfume is not merely about etiquette—it is a quiet expression of attentiveness and grace.

Sushi is a culinary art that engages all five senses—it is to be appreciated with the eyes, tasted with the tongue, and experienced through the nose. Among these, scent plays a particularly crucial role in shaping the overall impression of each piece.

Smell—whether orthonasal (through the nose) or retronasal (through the back of the throat while chewing)—is essential to how we experience flavor. When we eat, aroma compounds rise from the mouth to the nasal cavity, enhancing the taste of food. This is why, when we catch a cold and our nose is blocked, food seems tasteless. In fact, if you pinch your nose and drink orange juice, you might not even recognize its flavor. This clearly demonstrates just how deeply scent influences what we perceive as taste.

For instance, the umami of squid is not produced through the typical ATP-to-inosinate transformation seen in many fish. Instead, its flavor comes from the synergistic effect between adenosine monophosphate (AMP) and glutamic acid. This combination is said to produce a milder umami compared to ATP and glutamic acid, which is why freshness and texture become all the more important. Rather than allowing the squid to age, it is best enjoyed while still fresh, with its slightly firm, crisp bite intact.

Moreover, the gentle sweetness of squid is believed to come from taurine, and appreciating that subtle flavor requires an environment free from interfering scents. A strong perfume can easily mask such delicate nuances, making it difficult to fully experience the mild umami and sweetness that squid offers. To savor this gentleness, it is essential to refrain from wearing strong fragrances.

In the world of sushi, there exists the philosophy of “listening to the voice of the ingredients.” To bring out the natural flavor and aroma of each element, sushi chefs deliberately avoid excessive seasoning or added scents. They pay meticulous attention to factors like temperature, humidity, and even the angle of the knife.

Take, for example, the lean red meat of bluefin tuna. It is the sushi chef’s skill that determines the balance among its faint acidity, sweetness, and bitterness—none of which should overpower the others. If just one note dominates, the depth and complexity of the tuna is lost. Chefs carefully assess this balance to craft each piece of sushi.

A photo of Kitamurasaki uni nigiri sushi — There are sushi chefs who dislike gunkan-maki made with Kitamurasaki uni.

Similarly, with Kitamurasaki sea urchin, its fragrance is so delicate that some chefs choose not to wrap it in nori (seaweed), which might overpower its scent. This is another example of the deep consideration given to the ingredient’s natural aroma—a hallmark of the sushi chef’s philosophy.

In such a precise and sensitive culinary context, the intrusion of strong perfume from outside can become a serious disruption. If scent alters the perception of taste, both the chef’s craftsmanship and the ingredient’s unique character are diminished. Choosing not to wear perfume is, therefore, a simple yet meaningful way of showing respect for the chef’s work.

Additionally, most sushi restaurants—especially those with counter seating—are shared spaces, where diners sit mere inches apart. In such close proximity, even a modest amount of fragrance can affect the experience of neighboring guests. Strong scents can hinder their ability to enjoy the meal, making consideration for others not just polite, but necessary.

This kind of restraint reflects a fundamental virtue in Japanese culture: humility. In Japan, harmony is valued over self-assertion, and understatement is seen as a form of beauty. Refraining from wearing perfume is not merely about etiquette—it is a quiet expression of attentiveness and grace. Such mindfulness allows one to truly understand and appreciate sushi culture with both reverence and respect.

Relax and Enjoy under Cherry Blossoms off the Beaten Path！

More and more visitors from overseas are making a point of timing trips to Tokyo during the cherry blossom season. Guidebook in their hands, they head to Meguro River, Ueno Park, Sumida River, Chidorigafuchi Park, or another popular spot. It goes without saying that the blossoms are beautiful in all of these locations.

However, to be frank, there are so many people sometimes it’s hard to tell if you’re there to see blossoms or to see crowds. If you’re visiting Japan and you’d like to really experience cherry blossoms, we recommend Shakujii River.

Around 1000 trees bloom on both sides of the river and there are very few people, making it perfect for enjoying cherry blossoms on a stroll. There are actually more cherry blossoms here than on Meguro River or at Ueno Park.

After enjoying the scenery, stop by Makitazushi, established in 1972. Entering this flagship shop of Nakaitabashi is like stepping back in time to the Showa era (1926-1989). Make sure to splurge and order the special sushi selection for JPY 3100.

Location : A few minutes walk from Nakaitabashi Station on the Tobu Tojo Line

Cherry Blossom Season : March 20 – March 31

See Sushi dictionary

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Revision date: March 25, 2024

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