What is Koku?

A photo of stew
There are many secret ingredients in stew.

Koku is a comprehensive sensory experience derived from the combined stimuli of taste, aroma, and texture in food. It refers to a phenomenon characterized by the complexity of these stimuli, further enhanced by a sense of spatial expansion and lingering persistence.

Just as taste is defined by the five basic categories of sweetness, saltiness, bitterness, sourness, and umami, Professor Toshihide Nishimura of Kagawa Nutrition University explains that koku can also be described through three fundamental elements: complexity, mouthfulness, and lingeringness.

While these three terms are individually recognized internationally in relation to flavor, there is no direct English equivalent that fully captures the nuance of the Japanese concept of koku when these elements are combined.

The first element, complexity, can be objectively evaluated based on the diversity of chemical compounds present in a food. For instance, fermented foods like soy sauce and miso develop hundreds of additional compounds as they age—meaning a batch aged for two years will typically have much greater complexity than one aged for only one year. Similarly, foods that are cooked for extended periods, such as stews, tend to develop a more intricate flavor profile due to the formation of a wider range of substances, which enhances the sense of koku.

The second element, mouthfulness, is closely tied to retronasal aroma—the aroma that travels from the back of the throat into the nasal cavity during chewing and swallowing. Retronasal aroma plays a critical role in how we perceive flavor. This becomes particularly evident when we catch a cold: with nasal congestion impairing our sense of smell, foods suddenly seem flavorless. In fact, the olfactory system is considered more advanced than the gustatory system in distinguishing fine differences. For example, when chewing vinegared rice, the aromas of vinegar, kelp broth, and seaweed gradually rise through the back of the throat into the nasal passages. Aromatic molecules linger on the mucous membranes of the nasal cavity, allowing the brain to continue interpreting them as part of the overall taste experience.

The third element, lingeringness, is often enhanced by the presence of fat. Fat readily absorbs and retains aromatic compounds, allowing them to adhere to the mucous membranes of the tongue and nasal passages, thus prolonging the flavor experience. While we often describe fatty foods as “rich and flavorful,” it’s important to note that fat itself is tasteless and odorless. The perceived flavor comes from the wide range of compounds that dissolve into the fat during cooking, creating a complex and lasting impression.

However, not all taste and aroma compounds in food are present at concentrations high enough to be consciously perceived. Here, the concept of a threshold becomes crucial—the minimum concentration at which a compound can be detected by the senses. Many flavor and aroma molecules exist below this threshold. While they are not individually detectable, they interact synergistically with other components to subtly but significantly shape the overall flavor impression.

These undetectable compounds function like hidden flavors. Rather than asserting themselves directly, they enhance the definition of other flavors and contribute to a balanced and harmonious profile. In this sense, they can be considered koku-enhancing substances that strengthen the depth, complexity, and persistence of the taste experience.

For example, a small amount of yuzu peel added to miso soup, a pinch of salt concealed in a simmered dish, or the synergistic effect of glutamic acid and inosinic acid in kelp-based broth—all of these contribute not through obvious presence, but by shaping the overall flavor, expanding the taste on the palate, and enriching the lingering aftertaste we associate with koku.

Thus, koku is not simply a “rich flavor” but a nuanced sensory phenomenon created by the interplay of clearly perceptible and imperceptible flavor elements. It emerges from thoughtful ingredient selection, careful cooking techniques, controlled aging, and subtle enhancements such as “secret ingredients.” All these components work together to create a dish with true koku.

This is why koku is so difficult to translate directly into English. It is not just a taste, but a layered sensory experience with temporal and spatial dimensions, lying at the very heart of Japanese cuisine. Understanding koku provides valuable insight into the richness of Japanese culinary culture and the refined craftsmanship that brings its flavors to life.

Related contents:

What is a firm difference between sushi and western fish cuisine?

What is Kakushiaji?

What is Mochigatsuo?

A photo of Modori-gatsuo
Modori-gatsuo are those that migrate southward from off Sanriku to the Boso Peninsula from mid-September to late October.

In Japan, bonito is called variously Hatsugatsuo, Modorigatsuo, Mayoigatsuo, Netsukigatsuo, and so on. The quality of the fish is unique depending on the season and size, and bonito lovers will be able to enjoy a variety of flavors throughout the year. Now, bonito, a popular fish since the Edo period, has recently been given a new name, Mochigatsuo, which we have never heard of, and we would like to dig deeper into it.

A photo of bonito
The quality of bonito cannot be determined until it has been sliced.

As a general rule, one cannot identify a bonito just by looking at it, and even marketers and sushi chefs cannot tell its quality until they try to slice it. In particular, Hatsugatsuo (Noborigatsuo) has greater individual differences than Modori-gatsuo (Kudarigatsuo), and may even be inedible raw due to its distinctive odor. It is called Ishigatsuo or Gorigatsuo. Its flesh is noticeably firmer than normal fish in terms of elasticity. Its flesh is white, pink, or brownish. It also smells very bloody, almost like iron. The cause is currently unknown.

Because of its high hemoglobin and myoglobin content, bonito has a stronger bloody smell than other fish, even if it is not fresh. This richness is due to the high content of nitrogen compounds such as creatine and histidine, in addition to the umami substance inosinic acid. This is the reason for the unparalleled love of bonito.

A photo of Kenken gatsuo
The fishermen in the town of Susami, Wakayama Prefecture, immediately ikejime each bonito they catch on board, drain the blood out of the fish, and bring it back to the port in a container with its head in seawater ice.

On the other hand, bonito is a representative fish that loses its freshness quickly and is usually flash-frozen immediately after being caught. However, thanks to the tremendous efforts of fishermen, we can now eat fresh bonito. For example, fishermen in the town of Susami, Wakayama Prefecture, immediately ikejime each bonito they catch on board, drain the blood out of the fish, and bring it back to the port in a container with its head in seawater ice for the day’s auction. Kenkengatsuo is the result of thorough techniques for preserving freshness. The same is true of Taru-gatsuo from Hachijojima Island in Tokyo, for example. However, by the time the raw bonito arrives at the sushi restaurant to be made into Nigiri sushi, 12 hours have passed since the fish was caught. This time is critical to the quality of the fish.

So what kind of bonito is Mochi-gatsuo?

Hatsugatsuo has a refreshing, spring breeze-like flavor. Some of them are called “Mochigatsuo”, a type of bonito whose flesh is elastic and has the texture of freshly pounded rice cakes. Originally, bonito is caught far offshore, but in the spring, it comes much closer to land, so it can be brought to port before it becomes rigor mortis. Not all bonito are Mochi-gatsuo, however, and only a few are part of the same school, making them extremely rare. According to one theory, they are eaten before rigor mortis, which occurs four to five hours after the catch. Its season is from March to June, and it is consumed locally, as it is difficult to ship to distant places.

The name is also wonderful, as it compares the flesh of the bonito to a Mochi (rice cake). So far, the name “Mochigatsuo” is only used in Wakayama and Shizuoka regions. If you have a chance, you would like to try it.

Related contents:

Bonito (Katsuo)

What is the thought behind Toro?

a photo of Toro block
Marbled toro block

Toro salmon, Toro Katsuo, Toro Sawara, Toro saba, Buri toro, Beni toro, and Toro, the original maguro, have all been added to the list, and the number of fish calling themselves Toro, other than maguro, is increasing.

In other words, the word Toro is becoming increasingly generic.

Anyone who has endured the advertising onslaught of the modern era knows that word “toro” always seems to make its way into marketing materials. The word is meant to convey a luxury ingredient, and the “gotta-eat-it” mentality that drives sales.

For example, Toro saba (Saba means ‘mackerel’) is a fatty mackerel. Speaking of fatty mackerel in Japan, the first thing that comes to mind is Norwegian mackerel (Atlantic mackerel). It was once criticized for being too fatty for some unintelligible reason.

In Norway, the amount of mackerel that can be caught in a year is strictly regulated by each fishing boat, so they only catch mackerel when it is fatty and the price is high. Japanese chub mackerel has a peak fat content of 20-25%, while Norwegian mackerel has a peak fat content of 25-30%.

When we looked at the Norwegian Seafood Council’s website to confirm this fact, strangely enough, they do not use a single word Toro mackerel.

The term “fatty” is often used to describe the meat and taste of the fish. This term, of course, implies a high fat content, but the real message we wanted to convey was supposed to be “tasty”. This is because fat contains many flavor compounds. However, literally fatty fish is appreciated and it has become a first-class citizen.

The increase in fatty farmed fish and imported fish such as Northern mackerel may have played a role in this trend, and at the bottom of it all, as with the Toro worship of tuna, there has been a major shift in Japanese eating habits in the postwar period.

In this naming, we cannot help but feel the commercial spirit and skill of the company, which has successfully turned what could be a disadvantage into an advantage by combining changing tastes with the sense of luxury that the word “Toro” possesses.

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Revision date: February 15, 2023


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The answer to the question, “Can I eat sushi leftovers the next day?”

a photo of Takeaway sushi

Nigiri sushi is generally made with raw seafood. It can be said that the seafood starts to go bad as soon as it is put on warm rice. Of course, at the stage of preparation, there are procedures being taken to reduce the causative micro-organisms of food poisoning. Out of all food that is commonly eaten raw, sushi is considered to have the least micro-organisms that cause food poisoning.

For example, Vibrio parahaemolyticus, a typically known bacteria that causes food poisoning, attaches to seafood, and if the conditions, such as temperature, are just right, it proliferates at double the speed of other food poisoning bacteria. When you are eating at a sushi restaurant, bacteria growth is being suppressed. However, if you take sushi home to eat it, depending on conditions bacteria could proliferate.

This is why as a basic rule, you cannot take sushi home from a sushi restaurant.

So then, what is the difference between sushi sold at the grocery store and prepared at sushi restaurants?

There are obvious differences between sushi made by sushi chefs and take-out sushi, as explained below.

Take-out sushi is lined up at the store, selected by the customer, then eaten at home, which takes time. Therefore, a higher amount of salt seasoning is used compared to Nigiri sushi restaurants, in order to delay the degradation in quality. Sushi made by sushi chefs at restaurants has a salt content of about 1% in the sushi rice, while that of take-out sushi has about a 2% content.

Next, with a pH of around 4.5%, it is difficult for bacteria such as Salmonella, Staphylococcus aureus, E. coli bacterium bacteria and Vibrio parahaemolyticus to proliferate, and there are experimental results that show they die out. In an experiment that measured the pH of sushi rice in take-out sushi, it was usually measured at 6%. Nigiri sushi made at a restaurant is often around 6.2%, so this acidity is put to good use in the sushi rice and could be delaying degradation.

Furthermore, although it may not be a pleasant topic of discussion, preventing spoiling and deterioration in food caused by micro-organism is done by adding preservatives to improve the shelf life. For example, classic preservatives such as benzoic acid, Sorbic acid and PH adjusters are used all over the world. There is an obligation to list these on the product label when used.

Now let’s get into the main topic.

This all being said, sometimes when you buy take-out, there are leftovers. There is no question that it is better to promptly discard them. But you may think that you can just eat it the next day, right?

You can. And it will taste the same as when you bought it.

First of all, there is something important to remember; not all toppings are equal in take-out. Unfortunately, things that require freshness like shellfish, squid, mackerel and sardines, cannot be saved. These must be consumed on the day they are bought.

Next, let’s go over how to eat your day-after sushi so that it still tastes good.

The toppings this method works for are tuna, salmon, white fish and steamed shrimp. However, the only white fish it works for are benthic fish such as flounder. As long as the meat is still transparent the next day, it’s safe. For Hamachi, which always has more than 20% body fat, which oxidizes, so avoid keeping it to the next day. Raw shrimp is out too. Steamed shrimp becomes more delicious when quickly put into sushi vinegar for storage.

The method is simple!

First, remove the Nigiri sushi topping from the rice. Next, wash that topping with running water for a few seconds and then dry well with a paper towel. Make sure you are quick in all of these steps. Finally, wrap in plastic wrap and store in the refrigerator.

Next, use a wet paper towel to wrap the sushi rice. Wrap this set in plastic and put it in the vegetable drawer if possible. If you don’t have a vegetable drawer than the normal refrigerator compartment is fine.

The next day, when you are ready to eat, heat the sushi rice in the microwave at 1000W for 10 seconds. The point is just to warm it up a little. Next, just take the topping from the refrigerator and place it on the rice. You can add some wasabi if necessary.

Incidentally, if you use this method for take-out sushi, even when consuming it on the same day, it will taste even better than just eating it right away.

The practice of sushi chefs is to put somewhat cold sushi toppings (16~19℃) or room-temperature toppings (20~23℃) on top of sushi rice that is the same temperature of the human body (37℃). We are trying to imitate this method. If you are consuming on the same day, any topping can be removed from the rice and prepared like this.

But please do not wait any longer than the next day to eat any leftovers.

Do not bend this rule. Let me warn you that the symptoms of food poisoning from shellfish and silver-backed fish are horrible. It should also go without saying that if the sushi rice has already dried out, there is no bringing it back, even with this method. Once you’ve reached that point, you just have to throw it away. Naturally, you cannot eat smelly sushi toppings.

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Revision date: April 1, 2022


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There are strangely two types of Ama ebi

It goes without saying, that each type of fish has its very own scientific name. However, in places like the Toyosu Fish Market, there are seafoods that end up sharing a name.

The official Japanese name of ama ebi (sweet shrimp) is “Hokkoku Akaebi” (scientific name: Pandaluseous Makarov).

In Japan, ama ebi lives naturally along the Sea of Japan coast and the coasts of Hokkaido, and the ama ebi sold at Toyosu market is caught from Toyama prefecture and northward to Hokkaido and southward. When made into nigiri sushi, it is harmonious with the acidity of the vinegared rice and the thick sweetness is irresistible. It really lives up to its “sweet” name.

However, what dominates the Toyosu Market is frozen shrimp of the same pandalidae family, called “Honhokkoku Akaebi” (scientific name: pandalus borealis kroyer) from Iceland and Greenland.

This is distributed as “Ama ebi” at the market, but strictly speaking it is a different type of shrimp. As far as appearance goes, it is impossible to tell the difference and they say that even the flavor is the same.

The majority of ama ebi used at conveyor belt sushi is produced in Greenland and imported to Japan through China. The reason for this import circumvention is that the processing to turn the shrimp into ready-made sushi toppings is done using inexpensive labor in China. The frozen ama ebi is thawed in China, processed (head, shell, etc., are removed) and then frozen again. Of course, this process diminishes the freshness of the fish. Preservatives are used to help prevent this. For example, pigment fixing agents are used in order to reduce discoloration from fading. Furthermore, acidity regulators and antioxidants are used to prevent changes in the quality and color of the meat. Ama ebi is stored in packs of 50, imported en masse to Japan, and can be used for sushi or sashimi immediately upon thawing.

As this ama ebi caught in the North Atlantic Ocean is considerably cheaper than domestic ama ebi, the reality is that conveyor belt sushi wouldn’t survive in Japan without these imports.

Related contents: Sweet shrimp (Amaebi)

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Revision date: September 1, 2021


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What is Toro salmon?

You probably already know this, but “toro tuna” is not the name of a type of fish. “Toro” is the name of a fatty part of the tuna. The fat content and attributes of the belly side of the tuna are completely different from that of the dorsal side. Toro is the name of the part near the head, mostly on the belly side.

In the same way, there is no fish called “toro salmon”. Just like tuna, “toro” refers to the fatty part on the belly side of the salmon. It is also called “harasu” in Japanese. This is how the word is used at some scrupulous sushi restaurants. This description of “toro salmon” is correct.

Most salmon used at conveyor belt sushi restaurants is either trout salmon or Atlantic salmon. The reason this salmon can be served at the cheap price of US $1 or $2 per plate (2 pieces of sushi) is that these particular fish are all farmed and are available in bulk quantities from overseas. This salmon is mainly imported to Japan from Norway, Chile, Scotland and Canada.

Actually, the popular “toro salmon” topping is made from these imported items and the fat content is three times that of wild salmon. Feeding farmed salmon plenty of solid compounded feed that is high in protein and high in fat, turns the entire body to toro.

Salmon, which are born in freshwater and migrate downstream to the sea are called “sea-run fish” and they may be farmed in either seawater or freshwater. Trout salmon is “former” rainbow trout that was raised in a fish cage in the sea. In the wild, the sea-run rainbow trout grows up to 1 m in length, its body turns silver and the meat takes on a red color. The wild version of these are called “steelhead” and fetch a high market price, so they are not used in conveyor belt sushi restaurants.

Just like other aquaculture, salmon farming faces some difficult issues. It may surprise you that salmon is actually a white fish, originally. In the wild, the salmon meat gets a red color from feeding on crustaceans such as crab and shrimp that contain the red pigment astaxanthin. However, in the fish cages where the salmon are surrounded by nets, the food chain is also restricted. The compound feed would be plenty if the goal was only to raise bigger fish, but that results in a grey color or light yellow meat that doesn’t even resemble the salmon pink (orange?) that everyone wants and they don’t sell.

Therefore, when making the solid compounded feed, artificial coloring is mixed in. One of the colorings is called canthaxanthin. This is a synthetic chemical derived from petroleum. There is a color chart with 10 different, detailed levels of red coloring and buyers can even indicate which color they would like and the farmers can achieve it. It’s kind of like an industrial product that is being manufactured. Japanese people prefer a dark red color for salmon in the same way they do for tuna, so the coloring for Japan’s market is adapted to that.

When light is shone on wild salmon, the red coloring looks faded, but the light makes farmed salmon that have been fed coloring, look brighter. Artificial coloring is a necessity in farmed salmon and this is true for the trout salmon and Atlantic salmon that are used as the ingredients for toro salmon as well. All of the farmed salmon in circulation have been colored in this way, so much so that it wouldn’t be surprising if the insides of their stomachs were stained red. The flamingos at zoos also get their beautiful pink feathers from these chemicals.

Trout salmon is rainbow trout that has been farmed in the sea. On the other hand, rainbow trout farmed in freshwater is called Donaldson trout. Of all the large rainbow trout gathered at each location, those with small heads and fat bodies were selected and bred over many years to create this type. The objective of choosing a small head is to make more meat. They are characterized by their fast growth and while normal, farmed rainbow trout grow to about 30 to 40 cm, Donaldson trout grow up to nearly 1 m. The name is taken from the American who developed this variant.

The Donaldson trout is farmed throughout Japan and is used as toro salmon and aburi salmon at conveyor belt sushi restaurants. Since they are supplied directly to the processor (of the salmon) from the farmer without going through the market, they may be sold cheaper than the import price. Just like the imported salmon, this farmed salmon is also fed artificial coloring. There are also already new variants improved from the Donaldson trout being bred. Trout made from breeding Donaldson trout females and steelhead males are called Donaldson steelhead, for instance. They grow even faster.

Ample use of the latest biotechnology has been made in salmon farming and some of these technologies include creating young fish without functioning reproductive organs, “triploids” which means increasing the size of the fish up to triple and “all female populations” where males are converted into females. The triploid fish grow large in correlation to the lack of energy exertion. The objective of all-female populations is to get more masuko (ovaries). Masuko is used for the ikura (salmon roe) at conveyor belt sushi, and since the fish that the roe is harvested from have an inferior flavor, they are used for aburi salmon. Now, there are even triploid, all-female farm populations. No wonder the restaurants can serve a plate (2 pieces) of salmon sushi for US $1.

The simple phrase, “toro salmon” contains so much meaning.

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Related contents:

What is Beni toro?

What is Biwa trout?

What is Brown trout?


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Revision date: February 16, 2023


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The secret story of how Ikura became a sushi topping!

Between the time Edomae sushi was born (1810-1830) and around 1930, the toppings used in nigiri-sushi were strictly limited to slices of seafood. There were no so-called delicacy toppings (such as salmon roe and sea urchin, etc.).

However, in 1934, a restaurant in Ginza called Kyubey started a revolution. This restaurant is still synonymous with high-end sushi, but at that time many political and business people went there as well. Then, one night… Apparently, one of the regular customers was tired of eating ordinary sushi and said to the chef, Hisaji Imada, “I want to eat some sushi that is more unusual. Ikura (Salmon roe) sounds like it would make good sushi,” as a joke. Imada, who took these words seriously, thought to himself, “But the roe would fall off if put directly on the shari (vinegar rice),” and racked his brain that night for a solution. Finally, he had an idea and said, “I know, I could just surround shari with seaweed and put salmon roe in it.” This is how the Ikura Gunkanmaki was born.

Next, when that customer came in again and Imada nervously served him his new Ikura sushi concept, it was received much better than expected. Gaining confidence from this reaction, Chef Imada put it on his regular menu. The story goes that rumors of the delicious taste spread and other sushi restaurants started to copy it. Then, the term “ikura gunkan-maki”(salmon roe battleship roll) was coined.

Nowadays, everything is used as battleship roll toppings from sea urchin to shirauo to negi-toro to mayonnaise and canned tuna-fish. It goes without saying that it all started with salmon roe.

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Revision date: September 25, 2020


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Are Hamachi and Buri the same thing?

In the United States and other countries, “Buri: right image” is called yellowtail, but this word refers to fish like “buri” and “hiramasa” and actually can be applied to a large number of fish. Actually, it isn’t far off since a layman can’t tell the difference between a “buri” and “hiramasa” just by the pretty yellow line on the side of the fish’s body.

In Japan, “buri” is the most well-known fish that goes by different names depending on its stage in life (shusse fish). Actually “buri” has many different names even depending on the region you are in. For example, in the Kanto region, it may be called wakashi (0 to 30 cm) → Inada (30 to 60 cm) → Warasa (60 to 80 cm) → Buri (80 cm or more), and from Kansai on further west, it is called, Tsubasu (0 to 30 cm) → Hamachi (30 to 60 cm)→ Mejiro (60 to 80 cm) or Buri (80 cm or more).

This is where the term “hamachi” came from West of Kansai, full-grown buri, at about 30 to 60 cm is called Hamachi. In other words, Hamachi is a young buri.

Of course, it’s not that simple. You can get hamachi sashimi at grocery stores all over Japan, all year long. Hamachi is not only used from Kansai westward, it is also used at grocery stores throughout Japan. This may lead you to believe that hamachi is a different fish and not the same as buri, but you would be mistaken.

Behind the curtain, buri cultivation is thriving in Japan (and throughout the world). More than 80% of the buri on the market is said to be farmed. Because it is not apparent by appearance whether the buri was raised in the wild or by aquaculture, the wild-raised fish is called buri by market affiliates in order to make it easier to understand. That means farmed products have come to be called hamachi.

Also, in the Setouchi region, people preferred to eat the young hamachi rather than the adult buri. Kagawa Prefecture became the first in the world to successfully cultivate hamachi in 1928, and that is what led ‘hamachi’ to become synonymous with ‘farmed fish’. Of course, that would be one reason that people call farmed buri, hamachi.

What is the difference in taste between wild buri and farmed hamachi?

Buri (yellowtail) is a fish for which the name changes according to the stage of growth. We would like to start this article by reviewing the definition of “hamachi”.

Jumping right into it, medium-sized (30-60 cm), farmed “inada” or “wakashi” class buri is called “hamachi”. Even in Kanto, the names inada and wakashi are only used for wild fish, while hamachi is used for farmed fish.

The accepted theory is that the delicious flavor of Kanburi (wild buri caught during the cold months of November to February that has grown fat for the winter) depends heavily on the condition of high-fat content. The two major brands of Kanburi are caught on the Noto Peninsula and Himi in the Hokuriku region, and buri caught in Hokuriku has a higher fat content and also tastes better than buri caught in other places. This may be because fish that live in the frigid sea have higher fat content than those that live in warm seawaters.

You don’t know the true taste of buri until you’ve had Kanburi. It is especially popular as sashimi. The fat of the buri enters the muscle tissue, turning the fat into an incredible texture that practically melts in your mouth. Whether farmed or wild, the lipid content reaches its peak from December to January. This is 10% lipid content in the wild fish, but 25 to 30% in the farmed version.

The peak season of the medium-sized class of buri is summer, and the fat content for that season is 5 to 7% in inada and wakashi. and around 8 to 15% in hamachi. While the fat content in farmed buri is overwhelmingly higher than in wild buri, unfortunately, this does not translate to better taste. Throughout the world, buri with soft meat that has fat that glistens above the meat like hamachi sashimi, is popular, but after years of eating it, the wild buri always ends up tasting better.

Winter is the season for wild buri. The lipid content during winter is only around 10%, but this makes both the taste and the aftertaste better. The reason that the lipid content of farmed buri is higher than wild buri, is that sardine fish meal and farmed fish feed oil are used in the formula feed, or sardines, which are high in fat content, are fed as-is to the buri. However, in recent years there has been researched in formula feed for hamachi and buri with higher meat quality, which has improved the results.

When comparing flavor, wild buri has a higher content of umami, such as inosinic acid, in the meat than farmed buri. It is especially high in nitrogenous extractives, histidine, trimethylamine oxide, etc., which makes the flavor richer. In contrast, the meat of farmed buri is soft without much umami. This is probably one of the reasons that it feels greasy.

 

As an aside, three cousins (closely related species) of buri are often used as sushi toppings in sushi restaurants. In the Fish Name Dictionary, the translations of these cousins are Goldstriped amberjack (Hiramasa: right image), Greater Amberjack (Kanpachi), and Japanese amberjack (Buri). Sushi University also adopts these terms.

But if you dive deeper into the fish name dictionary,
Hiramasa is known as amberjack or yellowtail or hiramasa kingfish. Kampachi is known as amberjack or yellowtail. Buri is known as… you guessed it: amberjack or yellowtail.

When lumping them all together, they are called yellowtail, as is common in the U.S.

I’m sure you’re interested in the price, and while the price of the seasonal winter buri varies, it is generally around $10-20 per kilogram. Since there is very little distribution of hiramasa, the price is said to be about double that of buri. The price of Kampachi: right image is somewhere between that of buri and hiramasa. These prices refer to the wild-caught fish.

Finally, if you eat and compare buri, kampachi and hiramasa in sashimi form, most people can’t tell the difference in fat distribution. When made into sushi (buri sushi, hamachi sushi, hiramasa sushi, kampachi sushi), the sweetness of the fat and the flavor of the fish emerge splendidly, and the taste of each fish becomes distinct and obvious. Even the still-developing inada, with very low-fat content, is used as a sushi topping and its refreshing taste is unforgettable. This showcases both the depth and greatness of Edomae (Edo Style) sushi.

Related contents:
The answer to the question, “Can I eat sushi leftovers the next day?”

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Revision date: April 1, 2022


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Why do we use the counter “kan (貫)” for sushi?

When you sit at the counter and order nigiri a la carte, they will come out in pairs.* There is nothing wrong with counting these in the regular Japanese way “ikko (一個),” “niko (二個).”

*It is said that nigiri-sushi in the Edo period was bigger than it is today, and too big to eat in one bite. In the Meiji period, the custom emerged of splitting this one big portion into two to make more easily consumed portions, and this is why it is common to get sushi in sets of two. However, nowadays making one piece of nigiri-sushi at a time is not very efficient. We think it’s actually easier for the sushi restaurant to make them in sets of two. Of course, you can order them one by one.

But the sushi restaurant won’t count them like that. Formally, sushi is counted in this way: Ikkan (one piece), Nikan (two pieces).

We have absolutely no idea where the custom of using the “kan” counter came from. It’s also not clear when use of that counter for sushi started.

Of course, there are theories. For example, there is a theory that back at a time when a single unit of money was called “kan.” The price for one piece of sushi was around 1 ‘kan’, and the counting method gained popularity.

Let me explain in more detail. The term “kan” originally referred to a unit of weight, with 1 kan equaling approximately 3.75 kilograms. It was also used as a unit of currency, with 1,000 mon coins being called “1 kanmon.” During the Edo period, sushi was sold at stalls, and the price per piece was expressed as ‘mon’ or “kanmon.” It is believed that this price unit was later repurposed as a unit of quantity.

Incidentally, when sushi first appeared, most sushi restaurants were food stalls, and the price ranged from 4 mon (120 yen in current currency) to 8 mon (240 yen) per piece. The most expensive topping at the time, otoro, did not suit the tastes of the people and was discarded, while omelette (tamagoyaki) at 16 mon (480 yen) were the most expensive topping.

There is another theory that one sushi roll was counted with the counter for roll “巻” (also pronounced “kan”), then a different kanji was used for it later. However, these are just theories that were created after the fact and the mystery remains unsolved.

In addition, sushi restaurants are a world where the culture of craftsmanship remains strong, and there is a background of using specialized terminology to maintain formality and tradition. Rather than using terms such as “1 plate (hito sara)” or “1 piece (ikko),” using the term ‘1 kan’ gives a more “chic ()” impression and is said to embody the tradition and aesthetic sense of sushi culture. However, this is the reason why it is still used today.

Even if you ask the owner of a sushi restaurant, they’ll probably cock their head to one side, think for a moment, and tell you that the “kan” mystery may never be solved.

Sushi rolls wrapped in seaweed rolls are counted in units of 本 (hon/bon/pon) in the wrapped state, and when cut with a knife, the units change to 切れ (kire). While these units are fairly straight-forward for Japanese language speakers and easy to understand, only the enigmatic 貫 (kan) remains a mystery.


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Revision date: June 18, 2025


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Do you know that there are rankings for Negitoro?

a photo of nakaochiFirst, what do you imagine when you hear the word “negitoro”?

Most people probably think of “Negitoro Gunkan” or “Negitoro Roll” served at sushi restaurants.

But the real “negitoro” does not have leeks!

The original name for negitoro was negitoru. It translates to chip away in Japanese. The name eventually evolved to negitoro.

Here we come to the point.

The original negitoro is made from medium fatty tuna or nakaochi* chopped up finely with a knife and then mixed with chopped green onions on top. But the tuna may be switched out with filler, leading to a variety in quality of the negitoro available.

First of all, the lowest in the ranking are the offcuts of tuna that can’t be made into sashimi (mainly Yellowfin or Albacore tuna) and this is mixed with vegetable oil and minced. The type of onion used is normally green onions. You can pick this type out because it will be whitish in color. This version is normally served at conveyor belt sushi.

The medium quality uses the nakaochi of cheap Albacore tuna or Swordfish.

High quality negitoro uses the nakaochi of Pacific bluefin tuna or Southern bluefin tuna. Sometimes the green onion shoots are then rolled up inside. If you have a chance to try negitoro in Japan, we recommend you try the top quality options without a doubt. One piece will probably cost around $15 USD. But that’s the price for the real thing!

Finally, let me introduce some negitoro trivia. There is a lot of flesh on the middle bone (spine) and the surrounding area for tuna and the like. This is called “nakaochi*”. Scraping the meat from this area surrounding the spine is known as “negitoru”, which is where the word “negitoro” comes from. In other words, the name “negitoro” is not actually from the words onion (negi) and tuna belly (toro).

What is negitoro like at Sushi restaurants?

Originally, the meat from the middle cut or in between the bones of the tuna was used for negitoro. In order to get meat from these parts, the chef would have to purchase an entire tuna, or buy the cut that includes the mid-ribs. However, both of these purchases are difficult for a single sushi restaurant, so now the chef chops the meat from the body with a butcher knife until it forms a paste that is sticky and smooth from the fat in the tuna. This paste is used for negitoro.

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Revision date: July 30, 2022


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Is the handmade ginger in quality sushi restaurants free?

The ginger served in sushi restaurants is called “gari”. Some people eat it endlessly, thinking that it’s free no matter how much they eat.

However, at high-end or traditional sushi restaurants where artisanal gari is made in-house, it may be included in the bill. This is because crafting delicious, high-quality gari requires considerable time, skill, and labor, and the cost of fresh, domestic ingredients can be so high that serving it for free would result in a financial loss.

In contrast, the majority of sushi restaurants use commercially produced gari, which is mass-produced by large food processing companies, many of which have factories in China or Southeast Asia. These manufacturers typically soak large amounts of ginger in an industrial pickling solution containing salt, vinegar, acidulants, sodium saccharin, potassium sorbate, and sodium metabisulfite.
Although the quality of this mass-produced gari has improved in recent years, some versions have crushed and may be artificially colored with plum vinegar to enhance their appearance.

On the other hand, homemade gari, especially when made in Japan, is prepared with a more delicate and refined approach. It is typically seasoned with rice vinegar and salt, with sugar used sparingly to provide a gentle sweetness. The result is crisp, chewy, and flavorful, retaining the natural pale yellow color of fresh ginger without artificial coloring. During the early summer season, when young ginger (also known as shin-shoga) is harvested, the price of domestic ginger can soar to several thousand yen per kilogram. Due to its high water content, 1 kilogram of raw ginger yields only about 300 grams after squeezing.

Making high-quality, handcrafted gari is both cost-intensive and laborious, as sushi chefs often prepare a year’s supply in advance. Once made, it must be stored in a refrigerator dedicated exclusively to preserving the freshness and quality of the gari. When you consider the cost, effort, and culinary craftsmanship involved, it becomes clear that homemade gari is far more expensive and distinctive than its imported counterpart. In fact, serving authentic, house-made gari is one of the key elements that sets high-end sushi establishments apart from the rest. And even if you’re not charged for it, eating too much can dull your taste buds, affecting your appreciation of the sushi’s delicate flavors.

How to Make Gari (Pickled Ginger)

  1. Slice fresh young ginger thinly.

  2. Place the slices in boiling water.

  3. Once the water returns to a boil, remove the ginger.

  4. Drain the slices in a colander.

  5. Spread the ginger out on a bamboo sieve (or similar) and press it firmly while still hot to remove excess moisture.

  6. Soak the ginger in a seasoned vinegar mixture for half a day to a full day.

Vinegar Mixture (for 4kg of ginger):

  • 3.8 liters of rice vinegar

  • 1.5 kg of sugar

  • 300 grams of salt

Related contents: CONDIMENTS FOR SUSHI


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Revision date: June 10, 2025


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Why do sushi chefs make the sushi in front of the customers?

A photo of sushi chef
It is enjoyable to see sushi chefs at work.

Everyone can relax and enjoy a meal at a familiar restaurant. However, when visiting a new restaurant for the first time, you may feel a little nervous and find it difficult to concentrate on the food. You may feel a sense of being out of your element.

The purpose of going to a sushi restaurant is to eat delicious sushi. There should be no disagreement about that. And many regular customers at sushi restaurants enjoy casual conversation with the sushi chefs. The topics range from sports like baseball and soccer to politics, economics, and the opposite sex. The more skilled the sushi chef, the more they can remember all the conversations in chronological order.

For travelers who don’t speak Japanese, it may be hard to understand, but sushi restaurants are the only places in the world where customers can have a direct conversation with the head chef.

When I mentioned this, someone argued that at teppanyaki restaurants, you can watch the chef’s performance while having a conversation. In our opinion, that’s the same as a street performer. The performance should take priority over conversation.

Sushi chefs look at all their customers and adjust the timing of serving food for each one. Of course, they also want customers to see their beautiful techniques, but there’s no special reason why they have to make sushi in front of customers.

So why do they make sushi in front of customers?

Generally, it plays an important role in enhancing the transparency in the cooking process and instilling trust in customers regarding hygiene management and quality maintenance. But that’s not all. Sushi chefs are expected to learn communication and create the right atmosphere on their own. Because sushi tastes better in a fun atmosphere than when eaten in silence.


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Revision date: May 19, 2025


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There are two ways to make anago nigiri sushi, “skin-up ” and “skin-down”.

A photo of anago nigiri sushi
The appearance of anago nigiri sushi

“Anago nigiri sushi” is a type of sushi where eel, simmered and cut into a fillet, is placed on top of vinegared rice and brushed with a sauce called “tsume.” The head and bones of the eel are simmered to create a broth, which is then seasoned and reduced to make the tsume.

When cooked, anago (conger eel) becomes very tender. On the flip side, this means it also falls apart easily. “Falling apart” refers to the dish becoming mushy and falling apart. The fish’s bones and flesh become mushy, resulting in an unappetizing appearance.

There are two solutions to prevent falling apart.
The first is to wait until the anago broth has cooled before removing the eel. This is the most effective method to prevent falling apart. As the eel cools, the gelatinous substance in the flesh solidifies, allowing it to be easily handled even when the anago broth has cooled.

The downside of this method is that the eel solidifies in a curled shape. When using it for nigiri sushi, it might be more convenient if the eel is stretched out. Additionally, since the eel hardens when cooled, forcing it flat while it’s hard can cause the flesh to crack.

The second method is to cook the eel in a bamboo basket and remove it while it is still hot.

That’s all you need to do to prepare the anago.

Next, we will describe the characteristics of anago itself. The naval (actually the anus) in the middle of the body serves as the border separating the head part (top) and tail part (bottom) of the eel. The fat and umami are distributed better on the top. People used to say that since the bottom moves more it is more tasty. This applies to fish in general.

Additionally, in sushi restaurants, it’s also often said, “the top should be served skin-up and the bottom should be served skin-down.” Please refer to the following for explanations of skin-up and skin-down.

As shown in this image, skin-up means that the skin side is on top and the meaty side is on the rice.

As shown in this image, skin-down means that the meaty side is facing up and the skin side is on the rice.

To tell the truth,  anago easily melts apart when it is boiled and broth enters the part where it separates, so the appearance is not as appealing. In this case, it is better to make sushi using skin-up. But unless the crack is extremely obvious, whether to skin up or skin down is up to the sushi chef’s discretion. Skin-up can be cooked with tsume, and skin-down can be seasoned with salt and citrus juice to bring out the flavor.

For your reference.


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Revision date: May 30, 2025


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Tuna is matured to rest before it is used.

Once a bluefin tuna is caught, it arrives at Toyosu fish market within a day or two. However, that fish is not used as a sushi topping that day. No matter how good the tuna is, it starts very stiff and is not in a state where it should be eaten. The meat is hard and the white muscle lines are left in your mouth. The odor and acidic taste of the red meat is strong and the unique sweetness of the fish is nowhere to be found. After it has rested the muscles soften, bringing out the fat.

Then, when the sushi chef gets the tuna, he first separates the red, lean meat and the fatty toro portion, rewraps them separately, seals them in plastic, and puts them on ice. Next is waiting for the “young” meat, not yet suitable for eating, to mature. The number of days the fish will be rested depends on the size of the fish and the temperature. The smaller the cut and the warmer the temperature, the shorter the rest time. Generally the time is from 3-14 days.

The tuna wholesaler may also decide on the aging period independently. There is no right answer for this aging period, and it is decided based on the experience of the sushi chef.

This “young” fish not ready for consumption is a fresh, deep color but as it matures the color darkens, the fat is brought out and becomes a fleshy color. Proper care must be taken because if it’s rested for too long, the color changes too quickly.

As an aside, right after the tuna cutting show, it has not yet aged enough to be delicious. The color is light, and the production of umami ingredients such as inosinic acid is not sufficient. This is a show for advertising purposes.

Related contents: TYPES OF TUNA


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Revision date: March 11, 2025


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Why do most sushi restaurants have 8 seats at the counter?

A photo of sushi restaurant
Most sushi restaurants have around 8 seats at the counter.

The main reason why many sushi restaurants operate with only around eight counter seats is to ensure the highest quality and to highlight the artistry of the chef.

In traditional sushi establishments, only the master chef prepares the nigiri sushi. Occasionally, there may be a senior apprentice who is allowed to make sushi as well, often someone on the verge of opening their own restaurant. In many cases, however, junior apprentices are not even permitted to handle knives. This is because the way a fish is cut can significantly alter its texture, which in turn affects the overall flavor and quality of the sushi. There is a noticeable difference between sushi prepared by the master and that made by an apprentice.

Equally important is the ability to read the subtle, often unspoken cues of the customer. Adjusting the pacing of the meal, the portion sizes, and the sequence and selection of ingredients is considered the true essence of counter-style sushi. For this reason, apprentices are first trained not in technique, but in observation. Learning to quietly watch the master’s rhythm, the timing of each course, and the space maintained between chef and guest forms the foundation of their training. Even without being explicitly taught, they absorb how to “read the customer” by emulating the conduct of seasoned chefs.

The true skill of a sushi chef lies not merely in serving sushi, but in the precise moment of “shaping” the shari and the topping. Sushi carefully prepared one piece at a time in front of your eyes is like a live performance. Everything from the amount of rice, the thickness of the fish, the pressure of the fingertips, and the movement of the hands is done in full view of the customer, allowing the skill of the chef to be conveyed directly. It feels like watching a work of art come to life before your eyes.

A sushi counter with just a few seats is not merely about space efficiency—it is a deliberate design meant to create an immersive “five-sense experience” that engages taste, sight, sound, smell, and even the feeling of time itself. The intimate and quietly focused atmosphere allows guests to step out of their everyday routines and appreciate sushi as a form of art. Each piece becomes more than food—it becomes a moment.


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Revision date: June 19, 2025


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