Why is only tuna brought into certain ports high-priced, even though all of the tuna is caught in the seas near Japan? This is because the level of stress caused to the fish when it is caught has a huge impact on the quality, including taste, color and texture. In other words, the same fish may be delicious or taste unpleasant depending on how the fisher handles the fish directly after catching it. Naturally, everyone ends up wanting the fish from the ports with fisherman who are skilled in this practice*. Furthermore, it is individuals who process the fish. The quality changes drastically depending on who caught it.
*This is a method of cutting off the medulla oblongata and aorta of a fish, essentially keeping the body alive while killing the fish. There is also a method of inserting a thin wire, like a piano wire, into the backbone. This technique paralyzes the nerves while at the same time suppressing the putrefied substance that comes from the spinal cord. Using the ikejime method extends the time until rigor mortis starts, and makes it easier to maintain freshness, while at the same time preventing raw fish odor and damage to the body by inserting a butcher knife into the base of the tail to drain the blood and keep oxidized blood from running throughout the body.
Even Japanese people can be overwhelmed by the somehow special atmosphere when they sit down at the sushi counter. This continues even when starting to eat. Other customers are concentrating on eating, quietly. You kind of get the feeling that if you utter anything, you will be asked to leave. If you don’t end up mustering up the courage, you just end up paying the high price for your meal and going home without much more to say of the evening.
Eating sushi at a counter is not inherently this dull. So why do sushi meals so often end up this way? The problem is knowing so little about the sushi, and feeling like you’re the visiting team on the field.
For example, it is taboo for new customers to take the seat positioned directly in front of the sushi chef. This is a special seat reserved for regulars. Even if the seat is empty, a newcomer will be shown to a seat in the back. This is an unspoken rule.
Contrary to their countenance, most sushi chefs are actually friendly and experts in the art of conversation. They especially value the back and forth with regular customers. For example, they have a keen memory, and can reiterate to the customer that their last visit was on the way home from a baseball game and they ordered a second helping of Chutoro fished in Oma. Of course this pleases many customers. A master sushi chef prepares sushi while standing in front of the customer. If there was to be no conversation with the customer, they can make the sushi back in the kitchen and have it served.
Sushi restaurants are a place for conversation.
The customer ends up not remembering which fish they ate. For example there are very few people who can name the order of the 15-piece Omakase course they ate. You may be sure you ate tuna. But where was it caught? Was it the belly side or the back side? How long had the fish been matured? To be a bit more frank, how much did it cost? If you ask the chef these questions, next time you visit, you’ll be able to compare different taste based on the fishing location. Knowing the difference in taste based on the part of the fish, and difference in flavor depending on where it was procured, and different taste depending on the preparations will certainly improve your sushi literacy remarkably. It will also lead to a better awareness of your own taste preferences.
But there are limitations to the time allowed for personal conversation. For example, in a normal 2-hour Omakase course, there may be five minutes or so available for conversation. It might not sound like much, but that is also the amount of time allocated to regular customers. Newcomers often can’t find a time to get a word in and end up with only the initial greeting, which takes about 10 seconds.
Of course that’s for Japanese customers who speak Japanese. What about foreign customers who cannot speak Japanese? First of all, conversation is impossible, so this cuts the enjoyment factor of the sushi restaurant in half. But the sushi is delicious, right? Perhaps, but you’ll end up satisfied with the small-world view cultivated for you by the media, limited to whether or not the fish is fatty, or if the meat is fresh and firm. This is something you can experience anywhere that sushi is served in the world.
What we offer is a totally different experience.
You get a seat in front of the master sushi chef, a knowledgeable interpreter is seated by your side, and the Omakase show is presented right in front of you. The obliging chef explains each piece of sushi as you eat with a gentle demeanor. He will also answer any questions you think of on the spot. You won’t be able to say that you don’t know what you ate. We prepare a translated list of your Omakase menu. You are also welcome to take pictures whenever you’d like to preserve the enjoyable memory. All you need to do is forget time and immerse yourself in the Edomae-style sushi, one of the staples of Japanese food culture.
Some people describe the conversation with the sushi chef as a kind of “kakushiaji.
Tokyo Health Centers stipulate that refrigerated cases where sushi toppings are stored should be kept at 5℃ or lower. This is to maintain the temperature of the toppings at below 10°C at which point bacterial growth is slowed.
However, sushi chefs will remove the topping from the refrigerator and leave it standing out for a while (in the case of tuna, the fat will melt at around 23℃). They do this because if the topping is cold, it becomes difficult to taste the essential nature of the fish. The temperature of the shari is best at human skin temperature (around 36℃) to maximize the taste and sweetness of the rice. However, the ideal temperature differs very slightly depending on the topping.
Some of Japan’s top sushi chefs pay meticulous attention to temperature—down to the exact degree. Hideshi Namba, the head chef of Sushi Nanba in Hibiya, is renowned for controlling both the topping (neta) and the sushi rice (shari) temperatures to within 1°C. He uses a laser thermometer to ensure that each piece is served at the most flavorful combination of warmth and texture.
For example, he serves fatty tuna (toro) with the topping at around 24°C and the rice at around 40°C, enhancing the melting of fat and the release of umami. Shellfish like scallop or clam are served cooler to preserve delicacy, while kuruma prawn is carefully matched to body temperature—approximately 38°C—for maximum sweetness and a harmonious mouthfeel.
You can check the general guidelines below for the ideal temperature range of common sushi toppings. This data was obtained from professional cookbooks.
Sushi Topping
Ideal Temperature
Description
White Fish (Tai, Hirame)
Approx. 18–22°C
Delicate flavor and aroma are best preserved at slightly cool room temperature.
Sweetness and texture stand out at this temperature. Too cold makes it too firm.
Shellfish (Scallop, Akagai)
Approx. 20–23°C
Room temperature enhances sweetness and ocean aroma.
Salmon (including Toro Salmon)
Approx. 23–25°C
Fat melts smoothly, creating a rich mouthfeel when served slightly warm.
Tuna (Chutoro, Otoro)
Approx. 23–26°C
High fat content melts around this range, maximizing umami and texture.
Silver-skinned Fish (Aji, Saba)
Approx. 20–23°C
Vinegared fish benefit from being served close to room temperature for balance.
Sea Urchin (Uni)
Approx. 18–20°C
Too warm dulls aroma; too cold mutes sweetness. Slightly cool is ideal.
Salmon Roe (Ikura)
Approx. 15–18°C
Cooler temperature preserves the firm texture and prevents melting.
Kuruma Prawn
Approx. 36°C (body temperature)
Served warm, just like the sushi rice, for harmony and natural sweetness.
Conger Eel (Anago)
Approx. 40–42°C
Served warm to bring out the aroma and sweetness of the sauce and fat.
Overseas, there are laws that state that sushi must be served at 10℃ or lower. This ignores that sushi is best enjoyed at skin temperature. Serving it straight out of the refrigerator makes it no better than purchasing takeout sushi from the supermarket.
No one is more sensitive to the changing of the seasons than sushi lovers. This must be because the taste of sushi toppings is directly tied to the seasons. There are terms to describe this such as Hashiri (early season), Sakari (in-season), and Nagori (late season). In Japanese culinary tradition, these three terms capture the evolving flavors of seasonal ingredients. Recognizing where a sushi topping stands within this cycle allows diners to appreciate not just its taste, but its fleeting character.
There is nothing that says a sushi topping is less delicious because it has a lower fat content. For example, everyone wants to get in there and be the first to eat early season (走り) toppings. It’s obvious that these would all be toppings with leaner profiles. But early-season toppings have a liveliness that you can’t find in other foods, and some believe that eating these types of food will give you new vitality.
Once a fish is in peak-season (さかり又は旬), we eat it as sushi. This is because the fish has grown as it approaches breeding season, gradually gaining more fat, and at this stage in its development it has a richer flavor.
And the ‘late season (名残)’ perhaps means that since the season is about to end, we need to get our fill now. While we may feel a bit sad that the season is ending, we can look forward to it coming around again the next year.
On the other hand, there are sushi toppings that don’t seem to fit into the seasons, although the seasonal dishes are one of the important reasons that Japanese food was registered under UNESCO World Heritage.
Those are deep sea fish such as Largehead hairtail, Japanese bluefish, Pollack and Splendid alfonsino.
Deep sea fish live at least 200 m below the surface of the ocean. For example, Splendid alfonsino lives at a depth of between 100 to 800 m deep, so it would generally be thought of as in-season in the winter when it has the highest fat content. However, except just before and after spawning season, the flavor of the Splendid alfonsino doesn’t change much throughout the year. Therefore, even high-end sushi restaurants always keep it in the topping case and it’s a popular choice.
Therefore, Splendid alfonsino is never actually “in-season”.
Since very little light reaches the deep sea, the water temperature remains more or less constant. In other words, there aren’t really seasonal (temperature) changes. The concept of season may not exist there.
Even so, you can think of it as especially delicious in the winter between December and February, when it has a higher fat content. Otherwise you might start to think of it as a fish that is “in-season” all year round, like salmon, and that just doesn’t feel quite as splendid.
The human tongue tends to sense food that is slightly acidic as delicious, and tends to sense it as not delicious when there is alkaline. When fish is alive, the alkaline levels are low, but after dying and beginning to stiffen, the glycogen in the muscle meat turns into lactic acid and becomes acidic. However, as more time passes, the rigor morris releases and the body softens. This is when it tastes the best. After that the proteins break down increasing the amount of alkalines such as ammonia. Also, since the proteins dissolve when they become alkaline, the body breaks down as the alkaline increases. This is the reason that fish tastes worse as it loses its freshness.
Japanese mustard, known as karashi, is made from oriental mustard seeds (typically Brassica juncea) and is a condiment known for its sharp, nose-burning spiciness. Unlike Western mustard, it contains no vinegar or sugar, giving it a clean, dry, and intense heat. It is used in Japanese and Chinese cuisine—commonly paired withoden, natto, tonkatsu, and dumplings.
Sushi chefs also use karashi as a subtle accent to offset the greasiness of fatty fish like bonito and tuna, playing a similar role to wasabi but with a sharper tone.
Western-style mustard, on the other hand, is typically made from white mustard seeds (Sinapis alba) and includes vinegar, salt, sugar, and other flavorings. This gives it a milder, tangy, and often slightly sweet flavor. It is commonly used in sandwiches, salad dressings, and as a condiment for sausages and cold meats.
There are many variations of Western mustard, including:
Yellow mustard: mild and tangy, common in hot dogs.
Dijon mustard: sharper and more complex, often used in French cuisine.
Whole grain mustard: a blend of white and black mustard seeds, often used to flavor vinegars or dressings.
Comparison Points
Main Ingredient:
Japanese mustard uses oriental mustard seeds, while Western mustard typically uses white mustard seeds, sometimes blended with black mustard seeds for whole grain varieties.
Flavor Profile:
Karashi delivers a sharp, dry, pungent (heat that hits the nose, whereas Western-style mustard has a milder to spicy, tangy, and sometimes slightly sweet) flavor, depending on the type.
Acidity:
Japanese mustard contains no vinegar, which gives it a dry and clean heat. Western mustard includes vinegar, giving it a distinctive tangy acidity.
Common Uses:
Karashi is often used with oden, natto, and fatty fish like bonito and tuna, while Western mustard is commonly found in sandwiches, sausages, and salad dressings.
Texture:
Japanese mustard is typically a dry paste mixed from powder before use, while Western mustard is usually creamy, smooth, or grainy and ready to use from a jar or tube.
Fish seasons are categorized as the ‘catch season’ and the ‘flavor season’. The ‘catch season’ is the time when lots of fish can be caught and are cheap. Take Japanese Spanish mackerel (Sawara), for example, they approach the coasts during the spring to spawn, and this is the peak season. This is the catch season. Once they’re about to spawn and their bodies fatten for winter, we’ve entered the tasting season. This is because their bodies store more fat in preparation for spawning, colder temperatures, or seasonal migration. The increased fat content results in a softer texture and richer umami flavor. However, these seasons differ depending on the region, and may be longer or even happen twice a year.
In Japan, the appreciation of seasonal ingredients — known as “shun (旬)” — is deeply rooted in culinary culture. Knowing when a fish is in season not only ensures better flavor but also connects the diner with nature and the passing of time, which is a valued concept in traditional Japanese cuisine.
The Art of Pairing Sushi and Sake: From Pairing to Perfect “Mariage”
What Is “Mariage”?
The word mariage means “marriage” in French. In the world of food and drink, it refers to a perfect union where the combination of two elements—such as sake and sushi—creates a new flavor experience that neither can achieve alone.
While the concept originated in French wine culture, Japan has its own refined version through the harmony between sushi and sake. Both are crafted from rice, water, fermentation, and the spirit of seasonality—making them natural partners.
What Is “Pairing”?
Pairing is simply the act of combining two items—such as food and drink—regardless of whether the result is successful or not. All mariage starts from a pairing, but not all pairings become mariage.
In other words:
Pairing = the action or experiment
Mariage = the result of harmony and synergy
How to Enjoy Sushi and Sake Mariage
Here are 3 keys to exploring the beautiful relationship between sushi and sake:
Match the “Weight”
Light-flavored sushi pairs best with light sake, and rich-tasting sushi goes better with full-bodied or aged sake.
Seek Aromatic Harmony
Pair citrus-accented sushi (e.g., with yuzu or sudachi) with sake that has fresh, fruity or floral aromas.
For example, a grilled piece of aburi sushi may go well with an aged sake that has a nutty, smoky aroma.
Consider Local Pairing (Terroir)
Just like wine, local ingredients often pair naturally with local beverages. Try regional sushi with sake brewed in the same area:
Hiroshima red seabream nigiri sushi × Kamotsuru Tokusen (Hiroshima)
Sake Styles and Ideal Sushi Matches
Sake Type
Characteristics
Ideal Sushi Match
Junmai Ginjo
Light, floral, smooth
White fish, squid, scallop
Yamahai / Kimoto
Bold, umami-rich, slightly acidic
Fatty fish, grilled eel
Koshu (Aged Sake)
Deep, nutty, complex
Anago, aged tuna, uni
Sparkling Sake
Light, fizzy, refreshing
Vinegared fish, pickled rolls
What Makes It “Mariage”?
In the best pairings, sake and sushi don’t just sit side by side—they melt together on the palate. This “in-mouth blending” is called kōchū-chōmi (口中調味) in Japanese culture, a form of sensory harmony unique to washoku (Japanese cuisine).
When achieved, this experience is no longer just a pairing—it is a mariage.
Final Thoughts
Sushi and sake mariage is not about bold contrasts, but subtle harmony. It’s a delicate dialogue between aroma, texture, and umami. Exploring this connection is not only a culinary pleasure, but also a journey into Japan’s deep cultural aesthetics.
Whether you’re enjoying sashimi with a crisp Junmai Ginjo or savoring otoro with a mellow aged sake, your taste buds are being invited into one of Japan’s finest traditions: the elegant fusion of sushi and sake.
At high-class restaurants, the minimum required nikiri soy sauce is brushed on to the piece, but at restaurants frequented by the general public, customers dip their sushi in as much sauce (soy sauce that includes chemical seasonings) as they like. In fact, there is a gimmick here. The high-class restaurant provides an opportunity for their customers to eat sushi toppings in the most delicious state possible, but the restaurants for the general population allow customers to eat casually with sauce, a daily necessity. This changes how topping ingredients are selected. If the sushi is going to be dunked into the soy sauce, then the topping must have an appropriate fat content that won’t be overpowered by the soy sauce. Therefore, instead of a coastal tuna, a farm-fattened tuna with oily fat is preferred. It is often said that farm-fattened products are too rich, but it is also said that they have an impact that isn’t overpowered by the sauce they are enjoyed with.
There is a sensor on the tongue that feels the degree of saltiness. This prevents us from eating too much of things that are extremely salty. Chemical seasonings confuse that sensor. The chemical seasoning palliates the degree of saltiness felt by the tongue. Even if you were to, for example, dunk your sushi into the soy sauce and chemical seasoning mixture, it won’t feel salty. If you eat sushi with the sauce, you can take in a high volume of sodium, which is a pleasure trigger for the human body, without feeling the saltiness on your tongue. In other words, it may be more accurate to say that with commoner sushi, you actually drink the sauce, not dip into it.
The difference between common people who eat this sauce and foodies is a delicate nose, meaning their sense of smell. This sense is acquired through childhood experiences and repetition after becoming an adult. Tasting through sense of smell is a person’s food culture. The reason that the so-called celebrities, or the upper class made through business success, don’t have an appreciation for high-class sushi restaurants is because they don’t have this culture of distinguishing by smell, or the culture of feeling the seasons. Also, in order to target the upper-middle class clientele, it is important to use strong flavors and give a performance that is easy to understand, while worrying about details is not necessary. That is why the obvious show of using a burner for searing is popular.
There is a theory that when pairing Japanese sake with cuisine, the two should complement each other. This means that one should complement the shortcomings of the other, and thus a harmony is achieved with the compatibility of the two pieces.
Of the five tastes, the components of sake include a balance of sweetness, umami, sourness, and bitterness. It is only missing the saltiness. However, sushi contains salt in the vinegar rice and topping, tacitly complementing sake. Sushi is delicious even eaten alone with its multi-layered umami components including acetic acid, glutamic acid and inosinic acid. By pairing with sake, you are adding the organic acids specific to sake, such as succinic acid, malic acid and lactic acid, further enhancing the taste experience.
Let’s discuss how science backs up drinking sake with sushi.
If you are looking for a new favorite sake, you should sample as many different types as you can. If that’s your aim, then filling your stomach with sushi is going to get in the way. The goal here is to ultimately find a sake that pairs well with sushi.
First, you should ask for a small amount of Junmaishu and Ginjoshu (or Junmai-Ginjoshu) recommended by your sushi chef. See the sensation they create in your mouth, whether there is a sweetness or a dryness, and note the fragrance and acidity. Immediately after eating a piece of sushi, try tasting the sake. Your impression may change a lot when paired with the sushi compared to the first sip. This is the true pleasure of pairing sushi and sake.
Natural fish are part of the food chain and have concentrations of harmful substances. Since 2000 the amount of mercury found in fish has become an issue. The American Natural Resources Defense Council has said tuna is a fish that should be avoided if pregnant or planning to get pregnant. A more recent problem is the large amounts of micro plastics found in fish meat. This shocking phenomenon will likely be reported by research organizations at some point in time. If it does reach that extreme, then it will be better to avoid the danger of eating fish.
Tuna at top-end restaurants is light in flavor. Its Akami (red meat) has an indescribable acidity with a delicate harmony between the shari vinegar, the nikiri soy sauce, and wasabi. However, on the other side of the coin, it feels almost like a waste to eat it without a sense of luxury. Of course tuna with delicious akami, also has delicious fatty tuna (toro). And you’ll never get tired of it. It would be easy to polish off 10 pieces as a light snack. Contrary to popular belief, it’s not the high fat content that makes it so easy to eat. However, it is because of that popular belief that many people feel that the big chain store farmed fish with lots of fat is more delicious than luxury natural fish.
The other day I had a very interesting guest at Sushi University from America. We’d like to introduce them to you. It was their first time in Japan and they stayed in Tokyo for a week. They planned to see Asakusa, the Shibuya scramble crossing, Meiji Shrine, the robot restaurant and all the other usual tourist sites. However, the conversation all seemed to be focused on food.
I asked what they planned to eat. They answered that they would be going to restaurants like Tsunahachi (Tempura), Japanese Soba Noodles Tsuta (the first ramen restaurant in the world to be awarded a Michelin star), and Steakhouse Sato. They had already lined up early in the morning at the Sugamo ramen restaurant, Tsuta, to collect a numbered ticket apparently.
The thing that surprised us most is that they were going to Sukiyabashi Jiro the day after their Sushi University experience.
If you are visiting Japan, I hope that you too will come to Sushi University before going to an expensive Michelin Star restaurant, so you can learn a bit about Edo style sushi. The reason is that sushi masters are just humans who want to provide something delicious to customers who will understand their sushi. For example, just slightly different parts of tuna have a totally different tastes. In order to understand these kinds of details for your chef, you need to have some knowledge of sushi toppings and Edomae-style sushi.
If you like sushi, you can’t continue to only judge the toppings on freshness and the fat content. Even if you don’t speak Japanese, with repetition, I hope you will reach a level that you can meet the challenges set forth by the sushi chef (understanding the Edomae-style techniques that have gone into each piece).
On the other hand, there is nothing wrong with a special trip to visit a restaurant with a Michelin star as part of your vacation so you can boast about it with your friends. We have also visited Paris’s Guy Savoy and Florence’s Enoteca Pinchiorri, and treasure those memories myself.
Returning the conversation to the American guest, they did already have impressive knowledge about sushi. Even their sushi chef was impressed at their knowledge. They had also done their own research and were talking about Ginza’s Sawada (two Michelin stars) and SUSHI BAR YASUDA. On top of that, they had come to Sushi University to test their skills and took that knowledge to Sukiyabashi Jiro. In the major American cities, there are a wide range of omakase sushi courses that cost over $500, at which they had eaten many times and had negative comments.
They didn’t want California Rolls, they had an interest in traditional Edomae sushi.
Perhaps they were sushi connoisseurs.
If so, that’s perfectly fine. You can find sushi delicious even if you don’t have the knowledge. But with each learning experience you will enjoy the sushi even more. I hope it helps in improving your experience, even if it’s just a little bit.