The human tongue tends to sense food that is slightly acidic as delicious, and tends to sense it as not delicious when there is alkaline. When fish is alive, the alkaline levels are low, but after dying and beginning to stiffen, the glycogen in the muscle meat turns into lactic acid and becomes acidic. However, as more time passes, the rigor morris releases and the body softens. This is when it tastes the best. After that the proteins break down increasing the amount of alkalines such as ammonia. Also, since the proteins dissolve when they become alkaline, the body breaks down as the alkaline increases. This is the reason that fish tastes worse as it loses its freshness.
Japanese mustard, known as karashi, is made from oriental mustard seeds (typically Brassica juncea) and is a condiment known for its sharp, nose-burning spiciness. Unlike Western mustard, it contains no vinegar or sugar, giving it a clean, dry, and intense heat. It is used in Japanese and Chinese cuisine—commonly paired withoden, natto, tonkatsu, and dumplings.
Sushi chefs also use karashi as a subtle accent to offset the greasiness of fatty fish like bonito and tuna, playing a similar role to wasabi but with a sharper tone.
Western-style mustard, on the other hand, is typically made from white mustard seeds (Sinapis alba) and includes vinegar, salt, sugar, and other flavorings. This gives it a milder, tangy, and often slightly sweet flavor. It is commonly used in sandwiches, salad dressings, and as a condiment for sausages and cold meats.
There are many variations of Western mustard, including:
Yellow mustard: mild and tangy, common in hot dogs.
Dijon mustard: sharper and more complex, often used in French cuisine.
Whole grain mustard: a blend of white and black mustard seeds, often used to flavor vinegars or dressings.
Comparison Points
Main Ingredient:
Japanese mustard uses oriental mustard seeds, while Western mustard typically uses white mustard seeds, sometimes blended with black mustard seeds for whole grain varieties.
Flavor Profile:
Karashi delivers a sharp, dry, pungent (heat that hits the nose, whereas Western-style mustard has a milder to spicy, tangy, and sometimes slightly sweet) flavor, depending on the type.
Acidity:
Japanese mustard contains no vinegar, which gives it a dry and clean heat. Western mustard includes vinegar, giving it a distinctive tangy acidity.
Common Uses:
Karashi is often used with oden, natto, and fatty fish like bonito and tuna, while Western mustard is commonly found in sandwiches, sausages, and salad dressings.
Texture:
Japanese mustard is typically a dry paste mixed from powder before use, while Western mustard is usually creamy, smooth, or grainy and ready to use from a jar or tube.
Fish seasons are categorized as the ‘catch season’ and the ‘flavor season’. The ‘catch season’ is the time when lots of fish can be caught and are cheap. Take Japanese Spanish mackerel (Sawara), for example, they approach the coasts during the spring to spawn, and this is the peak season. This is the catch season. Once they’re about to spawn and their bodies fatten for winter, we’ve entered the tasting season. This is because their bodies store more fat in preparation for spawning, colder temperatures, or seasonal migration. The increased fat content results in a softer texture and richer umami flavor. However, these seasons differ depending on the region, and may be longer or even happen twice a year.
In Japan, the appreciation of seasonal ingredients — known as “shun (旬)” — is deeply rooted in culinary culture. Knowing when a fish is in season not only ensures better flavor but also connects the diner with nature and the passing of time, which is a valued concept in traditional Japanese cuisine.
The Art of Pairing Sushi and Sake: From Pairing to Perfect “Mariage”
What Is “Mariage”?
The word mariage means “marriage” in French. In the world of food and drink, it refers to a perfect union where the combination of two elements—such as sake and sushi—creates a new flavor experience that neither can achieve alone.
While the concept originated in French wine culture, Japan has its own refined version through the harmony between sushi and sake. Both are crafted from rice, water, fermentation, and the spirit of seasonality—making them natural partners.
What Is “Pairing”?
Pairing is simply the act of combining two items—such as food and drink—regardless of whether the result is successful or not. All mariage starts from a pairing, but not all pairings become mariage.
In other words:
Pairing = the action or experiment
Mariage = the result of harmony and synergy
How to Enjoy Sushi and Sake Mariage
Here are 3 keys to exploring the beautiful relationship between sushi and sake:
Match the “Weight”
Light-flavored sushi pairs best with light sake, and rich-tasting sushi goes better with full-bodied or aged sake.
Seek Aromatic Harmony
Pair citrus-accented sushi (e.g., with yuzu or sudachi) with sake that has fresh, fruity or floral aromas.
For example, a grilled piece of aburi sushi may go well with an aged sake that has a nutty, smoky aroma.
Consider Local Pairing (Terroir)
Just like wine, local ingredients often pair naturally with local beverages. Try regional sushi with sake brewed in the same area:
Hiroshima red seabream nigiri sushi × Kamotsuru Tokusen (Hiroshima)
Sake Styles and Ideal Sushi Matches
Sake Type
Characteristics
Ideal Sushi Match
Junmai Ginjo
Light, floral, smooth
White fish, squid, scallop
Yamahai / Kimoto
Bold, umami-rich, slightly acidic
Fatty fish, grilled eel
Koshu (Aged Sake)
Deep, nutty, complex
Anago, aged tuna, uni
Sparkling Sake
Light, fizzy, refreshing
Vinegared fish, pickled rolls
What Makes It “Mariage”?
In the best pairings, sake and sushi don’t just sit side by side—they melt together on the palate. This “in-mouth blending” is called kōchū-chōmi (口中調味) in Japanese culture, a form of sensory harmony unique to washoku (Japanese cuisine).
When achieved, this experience is no longer just a pairing—it is a mariage.
Final Thoughts
Sushi and sake mariage is not about bold contrasts, but subtle harmony. It’s a delicate dialogue between aroma, texture, and umami. Exploring this connection is not only a culinary pleasure, but also a journey into Japan’s deep cultural aesthetics.
Whether you’re enjoying sashimi with a crisp Junmai Ginjo or savoring otoro with a mellow aged sake, your taste buds are being invited into one of Japan’s finest traditions: the elegant fusion of sushi and sake.
Natural fish are part of the food chain and have concentrations of harmful substances. Since 2000 the amount of mercury found in fish has become an issue. The American Natural Resources Defense Council has said tuna is a fish that should be avoided if pregnant or planning to get pregnant. A more recent problem is the large amounts of micro plastics found in fish meat. This shocking phenomenon will likely be reported by research organizations at some point in time. If it does reach that extreme, then it will be better to avoid the danger of eating fish.
Tuna at top-end restaurants is light in flavor. Its Akami (red meat) has an indescribable acidity with a delicate harmony between the shari vinegar, the nikiri soy sauce, and wasabi. However, on the other side of the coin, it feels almost like a waste to eat it without a sense of luxury. Of course tuna with delicious akami, also has delicious fatty tuna (toro). And you’ll never get tired of it. It would be easy to polish off 10 pieces as a light snack. Contrary to popular belief, it’s not the high fat content that makes it so easy to eat. However, it is because of that popular belief that many people feel that the big chain store farmed fish with lots of fat is more delicious than luxury natural fish.
Before continuing, please read the exclusive articles in major media and research papers.
The red tide (algal bloom) frequently occurs off the coast of Chile and it is resulting a large amount of salmon deaths. In 2015 27 million salmon died in a mass event, of which 25,000 tons were powdered and then fed to the healthy salmon (according to the UK’s Guardian reports).
Chilean fish farmers are using large quantities of antibiotics to control fish diseases. They use 500-700 times more antibiotics than Norway does. 80% of antibiotics imported into Chile are intended for the fish farming industry. Faced with the risk of bacteria resistant to antibiotics emerging, as highlighted by the World Health Organization (WHO), the Chilean National Fish Service is calling for a reduction in the use of antibiotics. (Extract from Le Monde diplomatique Japanese edition）
The bright color of salmon is something that you would never see a long time ago, but is now commonplace. It is likely due to the Canthaxanthin pigment mixed into their feed. Salmon is in fact a white fish. The salmon that is caught in Japan is called “Shirozake” or white salmon and its flesh is not a pink before it goes out to sea. Once it is out at sea, it swims around consuming small plankton and crustaceans such as shrimp and krill. Its body then takes on a pink color due to the intake of natural coloring of Astaxanthin. This Astaxanthin has antioxidant effects and it is noted for playing a part in relieving fatigue and preventing aging. However, the synthetic pigmentation that creates the salmon pink does not provide the same health benefits.
The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) gave approval for genetically modified salmon on November 19th, 2015. This genetically modified salmon is called “AquAdvantage salmon.” It grows faster than regular salmon and its body length is almost double. There are groups opposing the sale of this salmon, including US citizen group Center for Food Safety, the Japanese Seikatsu Club, and the European parliament. There are still many unknowns regarding the safety of this type of fish for human consumption, and a number of issues are still being debated. The discussion has been featured in “Nature” magazine.
Endosulfan is a type of organochlorine compound, like Dichloro Diphenyl Trichloroethane, Dicofol, Heptachlor, Chlordane, Mirex, Pentachlorophenol, and is known to be extremely toxic, but the EU approved Endosulfan for use as feed in Norway’s salmon farming industry in 2013.
Researchers analyzed the risk-benefit ratio based on levels of contaminants like dioxins, PCBs and chlorinated pesticides versus omega-3 fatty acid levels. While farmed salmon is higher in omega-3s, it is also significantly higher in these toxins (about 10 times) which can produce birth defects, lower IQ, and cause cancer. They determined the following based on origin of the salmon: “consumers should not eat farmed fish from Scotland, Norway and eastern Canada more than three times a year; farmed fish from Maine, western Canada and Washington state no more than three to six times a year; and farmed fish from Chile no more than about six times a year. Wild chum salmon can be consumed safely as often as once a week, pink salmon, Sockeye and Coho about twice a month and Chinook just under once a month.” (Extract from The Journal of Nutrition)
There is a saying, where there’s smoke, there’s fire. It is unlikely that big media outlet and research organizations would join forces to circulate incorrect information. Furthermore, this is not a problem that only affects certain countries like Chile or Norway. It should be considered as a problem for the entire farmed salmon industry.
On the other side of the debate, there are articles such as the following. Norway’s NIFES (National Institute of Nutrition and Seafood Research) sampled 13,180 farmed fish (of which 90% were salmon) and monitored them for medicines, substances that are prohibited by law, and other pollutants, publishing their report on August 17th 2015. In their latest report, it concluded that Norwegian farmed fish were safe and that illegal and undesirable substances were not observed to exceed standards. Further, it seems that they have confirmed decrease in most of the pollutants analyzed in the investigation.
But the fact is that, according to these articles, while the chemicals did not exceed standard values, they were certainly found to be present in farmed salmon. The other extreme would be to say that eating natural un-farmed salmon will not expose you to the potential risks from these types of chemicals.
However, that’s not really practical. The global production of farmed salmon is 2.5 million tons a year, approximately three times the 800,000 tons of naturally fished salmon. No matter what way you slice it, the option of farmed salmon isn’t going away anytime soon.
In the United States, Sea Bream is often called a Red Snapper. However, strictly speaking, this is not correct.
Biologically, Snapper is a generic term for all species in the snapper family (Lutjanidae). Over 100 different species of snapper inhabit tropical coastal waters. Red snapper is mainly fished in the Gulf of Mexico.
They are called American red snapper or Northern red snapper in supermarkets. The scientific name is Lutjanus campechanus.
And there is another species of fish called the Red Snapper. The Australasian snapper or silver seabream (Japanese name is Goushu-madai) is a species of porgie found in the coastal waters of Australia, Philippines, Indonesia, Taiwan, and New Zealand. It is a close relative of the Japanese Tai and similar in shape, but the body color of this species is golden pink, with a lighter reddish tinge than Tai, and the blue spots are lighter in color and somewhat larger. The flesh is softer than that of the Madai because it has passed the rigor mortis stage before being imported to Japan. It has a light flavor that can only be found in natural products. The black capillaries on the flesh are noticeable, which may bother some people. Its scientific name is Chrysophrys auratus(Forster, 1801).
So, what is the fish that Japanese sushi restaurants call “Tai”?
They say there are over 300 different species of fish with “Tai” in the name, making up 10% of Japan’s fish. When we say “Tai” in Japanese, we are referring to “madai” or red sea bream. Red sea-bream is categorized in the “madai” family (Sparidae).
Incidentally, relatives of the sea bream often served at sushi restaurants include red sea bream (madai), crimson sea bream (chidai) and yellowback sea bream (kidai). While “kinmedai” (Splendid alfonsino) and “amadai” (horsehead tilefish) have the name “tai/dai” in them, they are not part of the same family as “tai”. Splendid alfonsino is a type of deep-sea fish.
In American supermarkets, Porgy (Stenotomus chrysops) is sold, which has a beautiful cherry color and looks like Tai itself. However, the taste is different from that of Tai, being softer and lighter in flesh. Around New York and New Jersey, it is called Porgy, and in Massachusetts, it is called Scup. It is native to the Atlantic Ocean.
Red sea bream and red snapper look similar, but when served as sushi, their texture and flavors are entirely different. So if you come to Japan, please try and eat natural madai. There is no “zatsumi” (overpowering bitterness) and it has a slight sweetness to it. This is the taste of tai, known as the king of the white fish. Just for your own reference.
In Japanese cuisine (Including Edomae sushi), subtlety is often the key to perfection. One such subtle yet powerful technique is kakushiaji, or “hidden flavoring”—an approach that may seem minor, but can make a significant difference in the final taste of a dish.
Kakushiaji refers to a technique where a single seasoning (For example, sugar, vinegar, soy sauce, salt, etc.) is added to a dish. The Kakushiaji contrasts with the finished dish’s flavor, and is added in an amount too small to notice when served. This produces a clear improvement in flavor.
Examples include adding a little salt to heighten sweetness, or adding a little vinegar to a simmered dish. Sometimes these combination of flavors can be quite surprising, like adding a touch of chocolate to a curry.
In its narrower sense, kakushiaji refers specifically to seasonings or spices that please the palate or the nose. However, in a broader interpretation, it encompasses all the nuanced techniques and invisible efforts that contribute to the deliciousness of a dish. This includes selecting quality ingredients, using seasonal produce, applying seasonings at the right time and in the right way, choosing appropriate tableware, and ensuring a beautiful presentation.
In essence, kakushiaji is not just about taste—it reflects the spirit of craftsmanship and attention to detail that defines Japanese cooking. It is the hidden touch that turns ordinary food into an extraordinary experience.
A list of Kakushiaji
soy sauce
miso
dashi
ketchup
Worcester sauce
mustard
sake
mayo
mirin
chocolate
coffee
cocoa powder
honey
spices (nutmeg, all spice, garam masala, cinnamon, cardamom, etc)
Umami describes the delicious taste of savory flavor essences. For many years, people held to the belief that humans can taste only four basic flavors (sweet, sour, salty, bitter) until a Japanese chemist named Kikunae Ikeda discovered a fifth flavor (glutamic acid) in the early 20th century.
The main umami ingredients are glutamic acid in seaweed, inosinic acid in dried bonito and meats, succinic acid in shellfish, guanylic acid in shiitake mushroom.
Many ingredients contain a wide variety of umami essences. In combination, they create a synergistic effect that produces an even more potent savory flavor.
As far as we know, there are three ways “sushi” is written on sushi restaurant curtains in Japanese kanji characters: 鮨, 鮓 and 寿司.
Do you know the difference? Most Japanese people don’t know the answer to this question.
This is because various spellings are used by sushi restaurants throughout Japan.
For example, in Hokkaido, “鮨” is used. Next, in Tohoku, Akita and Yamagata use “鮨,” Aomori, Iwate, and Fukushima use “すし,” and Miyagi uses “寿司.”
In Kanto, Gunma, Saitama, Tokyo, and Kanagawa use “鮨,” Ibaraki and Chiba use “すし,” and Tochigi uses “寿司.” The spellings vary by prefecture.
Incidentally, among the 42 prefectures (excluding Nara, Wakayama, Kochi, Saga, and Okinawa), the most common spelling is “鮨” with 20, followed by “すし” with 17, ‘寿司’ with 4, and “鮓” with 1.
Broadly, in the Kanto area 鮨 is generally used while 鮓 is more common in Kansai. 寿司 is used commonly everywhere in Japan.
On the other hand, of the three, only 鮨 and 鮓 are seen in ancient Chinese literature. 鮨 was seen as a dictionary entry as early as the 5th to 3rd centuries B.C., and it’s origin is described as combining “fish” and “shiokara” (briny flavor) resulting in the term 鮨.
On the other hand, in A.D. 1st to 2nd century dictionaries, “鮓” appeared, and is explained to depict “a storage container for fish.” Toward the end of the second century 鮓 was used for the term “narezushi”.
But around the third century, the briny meaning of 鮨 and the term “narezushi*” written as 鮓 started to be used interchangeably. That is how the words were imported to Japan.
In Japan, the character “鮓” was often used in literature from the end of the Heian era to the end of the Edo era. Eventually the use of “鮨” was revived during the Meiji era (for unknown reasons). It was a natural transition that Kanto came to use “鮨” and Kansai came to use “鮓”.
Incidentally, the kanji “寿司” was created from the phonetics. Its use for celebratory occasions became commonplace throughout Japan.
*”Narezushi (熟れ寿司)” is the primitive version of Japanese sushi. It means covering seafood with salt and then soaking in rice for a few years as a form of lactic acid fermentation, which brings out the acidity.
This is the migration route of Kuro maguro (bluefin tuna).
Tuna caught in the coastal regions of the Japan Sea is notable as the best bluefin tuna in January. Iki, a small island in Kyushu area is one of the famous ports for tuna.
In February and March, the tuna auction market becomes slack due to rough weather. Just a few tunas from Nachikatsuura where is also the famous port for tuna are on the market.
In March and April, tunas become thin because their eggs need many nutrients.
In May, large tuna is seldom seen in the Tsukiji Fish Market. Even if there is, its body is really thin. “Kinkaimono” which means a shore-fish is generally considered as high-class tuna, but in this season, imported tuna is useful instead.
It is said that Pacific Bluefin tunas spawn around Japanese waters between Taiwan and Okinawa in April and May. And then, they go up to fertile, north sea along the eastern coast of Japan.
In June, “Chubo” which is young and small tuna is taken hugely off the coast of the Sea of Japan. The school of Chubo begin moving northward in this season.
In July and August, tunas can be seen occasionally but their bodies are still thin. Instead, Boston Tuna which is caught in the Atlantic Ocean and nicknamed “Jumbo” is on the market. Its fresh is softer than “Kinkaimono” and it doesn’t have medium-fatty part which “Kinkaimono” has.
In September, Boston Tunas are at their best with plenty of fat on them. The best season of Boston Tuna is limited and ends in October. But fortunately, Japanese tunas come into season.
The school of tunas split up into two groups, the one takes Pacific Ocean route and another takes the Japan Sea route and both of them move northward along the Japanese Islands. Some of them reach the Tsugaru Strait where and the season of Tuna begins from September to next January. Oma town and Toi town is famous nationwide for its catch of tuna from the Tsugaru Strait. The flavor of tuna in September is still weak but it becomes stronger in October. In November, feed of tunas such as Pacific saury or Japanese common squid with plenty of fat increase and flavor of tuna also gets stronger. In December, the peak season comes around.
A catch of tuna falls off in January and it enters the final season. The temperature of sea water gets cold and feed of tuna, squids decrease and the fishing season in this area ends.
When dipping sushi into the soy sauce, it is most common to turn it slightly (almost upside down) and dip the topping side—not the rice.
Soy sauce is more than just a condiment for sushi—when used properly, it enhances the flavor of the sushi topping and brings out a perfect balance with the vinegared rice, which is already delicately seasoned. However, using it incorrectly can easily upset this harmony.
The most delicious way to eat sushi at restaurants where the sushi chef applies Nikiri shoyu (a soy sauce mixture perfectly evaporated with sake) for you is just the way it was prepared. However, at restaurants where sauce is not applied for you, the sushi is eaten by dipping it in soy sauce. The soy sauce used for dipping is provided for you at the counter or table. Many restaurants use the same evaporation formula for the dipping soy sauce.
Soy sauce for dipping is put into a small dish for use, but don’t put in too much. It depends on the depth of the small dish, but the diameter of the circle of soy sauce after being poured should be approximately 25mm.
When dipping sushi into the soy sauce, turning it upside down (although it will be somewhat tilted) and dipping the topping seems to be the most common method. If you keep the topping on the bottom when you put the sushi in your mouth, the flavors of the soy sauce and the fish are in complete harmony and the delicious taste spreads through your mouth. There is also an opinion that turning the sushi upside down for dipping is unacceptable practice. There are also some with the opinion that whether to eat with your hands or chopsticks depends on the situation.
Make sure not to get any soy sauce on the vinegared rice (shari). You don’t want to add unnecessary saltiness to the Shari, which has already been seasoned. It would be a terrible waste to cancel out the exquisite balance of the topping, wasabi and Shari with the saltiness of soy sauce.
Large fish that are caught are always kept and transported on their side with their heads facing left from the port to the market and to the restaurant where they are served. The part of the fish facing down when in this position is called “Shitami” or the “bottom body” and the part facing up is called “Uwami” or the top body. The Uwami costs more than Shitami. This is because the Shitami takes on the weight of the Uwami, reducing the freshness and possibly causing cracks in the body (cracking occurs on the edges of the muscles).
This mostly applies to Pacific bluefin tuna (tuna that is consumed without any freezing after being caught). At any rate, since this fish costs hundreds of dollars per kilogram, a full-grown fish may be worth more than a luxury sports car. Therefore, from the time they make their catch, the fishermen work quickly, which affects all aspects of the quality. Most of all, this work affects the price. A Pacific bluefin is never placed directly on the deck of the ship. If a fish weighing 100 kg or more is set directly on the hard deck, its own weight would cause injury to its surface. Naturally, any damage or injury to the fish reduces the price. Instead, each fish is laid on a soft, spongy mat to protect its skin surface. Next, the blood is drained, the spinal cord nerves are destroyed and the fish is submerged in ice water. It might be easier to understand if you imagine handling a luxury vehicle, like a Ferrari, rather than a tuna fish.
Incidentally, the idea behind keeping the “Left side up (or prioritized), right side down,” is a fixed Japanese etiquette, passed down through China from the Asuka period. Perhaps the reason fish are also served for eating and photographed with the head on the left side is due to this influence as well. However, this is only a fixed practice within Japan.
At sushi restaurants, one of the many things the chef teaches their apprentice is to, “Start using purchase fish from ‘Shitami’.” Once a sushi topping is prepared, it may be served for several. It’s hard to imagine that the Shitami would start to go bad during these several days, but it is attention to these small details that make a master sushi chef.
The most delicious time to eat fish differs depending on if it is served as sashimi, as sushi, or boiled. Fresh does not necessarily mean delicious. For example, Japanese Amberjack should be used in sashimi 3-5 days after being caught, in sushi a week after being caught and it can be used in a stew or boiled once it turns black around the edges. This is because the inosine acid, which is responsible for the umami taste, increases after rigor mortis ends and understanding the timing of the peak in flavor is up to the skill of the sushi chef.
Fish seasons are categorized as the ‘catch season’ and the ‘flavor season’. The ‘catch season’ is the time when lots of fish can be caught and are cheap. Take 
Natural fish are part of the food chain and have concentrations of harmful substances. Since 2000 the amount of mercury found in fish has become an issue. The American Natural Resources Defense Council has said tuna is a fish that should be avoided if pregnant or planning to get pregnant. A more recent problem is the large amounts of micro plastics found in fish meat. This shocking phenomenon will likely be reported by research organizations at some point in time. If it does reach that extreme, then it will be better to avoid the danger of eating fish.
Tuna at top-end restaurants is light in flavor. Its Akami (red meat) has an indescribable acidity with a delicate harmony between the shari vinegar, the nikiri soy sauce, and wasabi. However, on the other side of the coin, it feels almost like a waste to eat it without a sense of luxury. Of course tuna with delicious akami, also has delicious fatty tuna (toro). And you’ll never get tired of it. It would be easy to polish off 10 pieces as a light snack. Contrary to popular belief, it’s not the high fat content that makes it so easy to eat. However, it is because of that popular belief that many people feel that the big chain store 
Biologically, Snapper is a generic term for all species in the snapper family (
They say there are over 300 different species of fish with “Tai” in the name, making up 10% of Japan’s fish. When we say “Tai” in Japanese, we are referring to “madai” or red sea bream. Red sea-bream is categorized in the “madai” family (
