Shari — vinegared rice used for making sushi — is typically kept in a wooden rice tub (known as a hangiri) and placed within easy reach of the sushi chef’s dominant hand. With a swift and practiced motion, a skilled sushi chef scoops out just the right amount of rice — often several hundred grains — to shape a uniform shari dama (vinegared rice ball) for a single piece of sushi.
It is said that experienced chefs can do this with a margin of error of only a few grains, thanks to years of rigorous training and muscle memory.
However, not all chefs have reached this level of precision. Some may inadvertently take too much rice, only to pinch off the excess and return it to the rice tub. This practice is called “suteshari” (捨てシャリ) — literally, “discarded rice.” Despite the name, the rice is often not truly discarded but rather returned to the communal tub, which can be a source of concern both in terms of hygiene and professionalism.
We estimate that more than half of sushi chefs engage in this practice, especially when they find it difficult to judge the proper proportion of shari to complement a topping (neta) before the piece is assembled.
While some may view it as a minor adjustment, seasoned sushi connoisseurs see suteshari as a telltale sign of insufficient training or inattentiveness. Movements behind the counter are closely observed.
From a sanitary standpoint, suteshari presents another issue: when sushi is made in high volume, residual rice that has absorbed moisture or fish juices from discarded portions may accumulate at the bottom of the tub, compromising cleanliness and potentially affecting the flavor of subsequent pieces.
That said, suteshari is not entirely taboo. When sushi is served in a shared presentation on a platter (moriawase), visual uniformity is essential. However, when served omakase-style as individual pieces directly to the guest, uniformity is not required.
Even Jiro Ono, the revered sushi master of Sukiyabashi Jiro in Ginza — once awarded three Michelin stars for 12 consecutive years — has occasionally been seen discarding rice to fine-tune his nigiri. (The restaurant is no longer listed in the Michelin Guide due to its exclusive reservation policy.)
In the end, suteshari is a nuanced gesture — neither wholly negative nor praiseworthy — but rather a window into the discipline, training, and philosophy of the chef behind the counter.
Related contents: WHAT RICE TO USE FOR SUSHI?
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Revision date: June 4, 2025
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