Edomaesushi | Sushiblog－Sushiuniversity

Once you try Kuruma ebi sushi, you’ll never want any other shrimp.

Sushi Shrimp Overview

Shrimp used in sushi is typically evaluated based on six criteria: color, sweetness, umami, aroma, texture, and cost. This evaluation excludes sweet shrimp and botan shrimp, which are eaten raw.

Among shrimp that are cooked—usually by boiling—and served in sushi restaurants, including conveyor belt sushi, the most commonly used are banamei shrimp (farmed), black tiger shrimp (farmed), and kuruma shrimp (wild or farmed).

In Japan, annual shrimp consumption is estimated at around 250,000 tons. Of this, banana shrimp and black tiger shrimp make up approximately 80%, while kuruma shrimp accounts for less than one-tenth of banamei shrimp’s volume.

Banamei Shrimp (Litopenaeus vannamei)

Banamei shrimp is the world’s most widely farmed white shrimp and is commonly used in Japan, especially in conveyor belt sushi and supermarkets.

When cooked, its color shifts from pale pink to a soft orange, creating a clean, uniform appearance ideal for commercial use. Its sweetness is mild and understated, offering a balanced flavor that blends well with vinegared rice.

The umami is gentle and neutral, without any strong distinctive notes, making it a good companion to other ingredients. However, its aroma is weak, especially when cooked without the shell, which is why it’s rarely used in high-end sushi establishments where fragrance is prized.

The texture is soft and slightly moist, particularly after freezing and thawing, making it easy to eat for all ages.

Where banamei shrimp excels is in cost-effectiveness. Its high yield, low price, and ease of processing make it a go-to option for volume-based food service. Though not remarkable in any single aspect, its consistency and affordability make it indispensable for everyday sushi.

Black Tiger Shrimp (Penaeus monodon)

Black tiger shrimp, named for its dark striped shell, is a large species that once dominated global shrimp farming. It remains popular in Japan as a sushi and tempura ingredient, even as banamei shrimp has become more prevalent.

When cooked, it shows a vivid red-orange border contrasting with its white flesh—a striking visual that enhances the presentation of nigiri sushi. This eye-catching appearance makes it popular in local and mid-range sushi restaurants.

It has a slightly richer sweetness than banamei shrimp, paired with moderate umami and a clean, balanced flavor. While its raw aroma is faint, cooking brings out a subtle shrimp-like fragrance that complements the delicate scents of sushi.

Its texture is firm and springy, retaining its structure even after freezing, which makes it suitable for processing. This satisfying chew is one of the reasons it’s favored in sushi preparation.

Although farming costs have risen in recent years, black tiger shrimp still provides solid value as a mid-tier option. It’s more expensive than banamei shrimp but cheaper than kuruma shrimp, making it a practical choice for many sushi restaurants.

Overall, black tiger shrimp strikes a good balance between appearance, taste, and cost—neither luxurious nor cheap, but reliably satisfying.

Kuruma Shrimp (Marsupenaeus japonicus)

Kuruma shrimp is a premium species native to Japan and prized in both sushi and traditional kaiseki cuisine. Its excellence lies not only in its high status but in its culinary balance—color, sweetness, umami, aroma, and texture are all outstanding.

When cooked, it takes on a brilliant orange-red hue with a glossy finish that signals freshness and quality. In its raw state, it has a translucent reddish-brown shell that transforms into a visually stunning centerpiece after boiling—ideal for high-end sushi presentation.

Its sweetness is refined and natural, gradually unfolding with each bite and harmonizing beautifully with sushi rice. Unlike straightforward sugary sweetness, it carries a richness tied to the shrimp’s inherent umami.

That umami deepens when heated, resulting in a pure, well-defined flavor with a clean aftertaste. Expert sushi chefs often grill or steam kuruma shrimp lightly to draw out its full potential.

Its aroma is delicate and marine-like, intensifying when cooked and adding elegance to the dish. The texture is supple yet resilient, with fine muscle fibers that feel smooth on the tongue. Unlike the springy bite of banamei or black tiger shrimp, kuruma shrimp has a calm, refined elasticity—a “quiet luxury” that signals quality from the first bite.

Due to limited domestic production and a focus on wild-caught varieties, it comes at a premium price. Even farmed kuruma shrimp remains significantly more expensive than banamei or black tiger shrimp. As a result, it’s rarely used in conveyor belt sushi and is mostly reserved for upscale restaurants.

In traditional Edomae sushi, kuruma shrimp may be aged in kimizu oboro (sweetened egg vinegar oboro) for several days to enhance its umami and introduce a gentle acidity. Its preparation also requires care—shrimp naturally curl during boiling, so chefs make precise incisions or use skewers to keep them straight, a technique that showcases culinary skill.

In short, kuruma shrimp combines taste, aroma, beauty, and elegance into a single, premium ingredient. Though costly, it brings depth and refinement that elevates sushi to an art form—a true “star” of the sushi counter.

Why is Zuke used for lean meat?

Zuke is one of the traditional Edo-style sushi methods. It is said that it was started in the Edo period to stop tuna from rotting when there were large amounts of the fish in the market. Now that there has been advances in refrigeration technology, it’s no longer necessary, but maturing the fish gives it a completely different taste and brings out its umami. Zuke is divided into two broad methods. Here we describe the characteristics of each.

Recently, most sushi restaurants incorporate the “Single Zuke”.

Each slice of tuna is soaked separately, so it can mature quickly. The immersion time is only a few minutes. The idea is to marinate just enough so that the tuna’s aroma remains and the soy sauce doesn’t overtake it.

On the other hand, the old Edo-style method is to perform Zuke after parboiling.

Parboiling means to wrap the fish in a wet cloth, and poor boiling water on the wrapping until the color of the tuna changes color, then turn the fish over and repeat the process. The fish is then put in ice water so the heat doesn’t go too deep in the meat. It is immediately removed once it cools so that it doesn’t get too watery. The tuna is then put in Zuke soy sauce and left to marinate for about half a day. In this method, the soy sauce only soaks into the surface part where the color changed from the parboiling, so the flavor of the tuna remains.

Both methods keep the maximum tuna flavor possible. Tuna is an essential part of Edo-style sushi. There is great diversity between sushi restaurants in the parts, marinating time and flavor of Zuke, which creates a new, original flavor when the lean meat of the tuna soaks up the soy sauce. The fattiest cuts of tuna are most popular. The lean meat has only become more popular due to a rekindled interest in zuke, but in fact during the peak of the bubble economy, there was a time when high-end restaurants in Ginza didn’t know what to do with all their leftover lean tuna meat. It’s almost unbelievable to think of it now.

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Revision date: August 1, 2017

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Is it polite to use Gari as a brush to apply soy sauce?

Using too much soy sauce spoils delicious sushi so make sure to only put a bit of soy sauce in the special dish. Make sure to tilt the sushi to the side and put just a dab on the end of the topping. Gari can be used as a brush to apply soy sauce to sushi rolls since they cannot be tilted. However, there are differing opinions as to whether this is a refined way to eat or not. Many people say it was basically made up by a publishing company. You just need a few drops in the soy sauce cruet. Actually at very fancy establishments the sushi is served with Nikiri so normal soy sauce is never used for dipping.

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Revision date: July 26, 2017

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Isn’t it true that fish is all about freshness? Not quite.

A photo of fish seller — Are the fish on display fresh?

Many people believe that when it comes to seafood, freshness is everything. But is that really the case? This article explores the complex relationship between freshness, flavor, and the way fish is processed and transported around the world.

The forms in which seafood is transported from fishing ports to consumption areas can be broadly divided into four categories: live fish, fresh fish, frozen fish, and processed products. We will omit the explanation of processed products, as it is self-explanatory. Regarding frozen fish, there are differences depending on the country. In the United States, fish that has been frozen and then thawed is also called “fresh fish.”In Japan, refrigerated fish or live fish that have been killed is called “fresh fish,” and when frozen fish is sold, it must be labeled as “thawed.”

In countries outside of Asia, “live fish” may refer to fish swimming in aquariums. Since it is not commonly seen in markets or supermarkets, we will explain it here.

Live fish, as the name suggests, refers to fish that are still alive, such as those kept in tanks or aquariums. They are transported from fishing ports in ships equipped with tanks or in specialized trucks with tanks on their cargo beds. There is also a dedicated section for live fish at the Toyosu Market. Once they are slaughtered, they become fresh fish.

One reason for the demand for live fish is that they can be caught from the tank while still swimming, prepared on the spot, and served. In addition to the freshness of the ingredients, there is also the value of the “experience” it offers customers, which can serve as an added value for restaurants. This applies to shrimp and squid “Odori.”

Another reason is that, depending on how they are processed after being caught, even the same individual fish can vary greatly in quality (amount of umami) and shelf life. For example, large fish that have been properlybled and had their nerves severed and fish that have died naturally after being caught (nojime) and have not been processed in any way (although they are cooled with ice) can have a shelf life difference of more than a week.The solution to this issue is live fish. Most seafood available in supermarkets in many countries is Nojime-processed.

Additionally, the state immediately after live fish are killeded is sometimes referred to as “seisengyo.” Depending on freshness, it is categorized as “seisengyo” (highly fresh) or “sengyo” (slightly less fresh). “Seisengyo” is used for raw dishes like sashimi or sushi, while ‘sengyo’ is primarily used for cooked dishes like grilled or simmered fish.

However, it is not that simple. Transporting and managing live fish involves various challenges, such as water quality deterioration, transportation costs, fish stress, and equipment investment.

In Japan, such extensive research has been conducted on freshness.

Of course, it’s a well-known fact among professional chefs that some fish don’t rely solely on freshness. Of course there is importance in freshness, but that’s just one element. It’s generally understood that flavor and taste improve with time (maturity).

The umami* found in the meat of the fish is essentially inosinic acid and glutamic acid. After a certain amount of time has passed after a fish has died, the body stiffens and not long after that the rigor lets up. The inosinic acid, which the umami is composed of, comes after the fish has stiffened. It then accumulates in the process of the body relaxing. This is the same in beef and pork in which there is no umami in the meat unless it is hung and matured for a time.

Therefore, ikizukuri sashimi that is still twitching usually won’t have the taste or depth of umami. However, the firm texture of sashimi is also an undeniable enjoyable aspect. It is not all about the umami.

*Glutamic acid, Inosinic acid and Guanylic acid are representative components of umami. Guanylic acid is found in kelp and vegetables (tomato, Chinese cabbage, green tea, etc.) as well as Parmesan cheese, inosinic acid is found in fish (bonito, macheral, sea bream, etc.) and meat (pork, chicken, etc.) while Guanylic acid is abundant in mushrooms (especially dried shiitake mushrooms).

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Revision date: June 16, 2025

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Which wines pair well with sushi?

Fermented beverages such as sake and wine pair well with sushi. Sake is made from rice. So it only makes sense that this would pair well with sushi – also made with rice. It is also the only alcohol that eliminates the smell of fish and shellfish.

On the other hand, when considering compatibility with wine, toppings that use strong seasonings like Nikiri, including tuna and conger eel with sweet filling, match superbly with matured red wines such as Pinot Noir.

For example, Bourgogne Chambolle Musigny, Cote de Beaune, Morey-Saint-Denis, etc.

White wines such as a lighter Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling go well with white fish flavored with Citrus sudachi and yuzu or squid eaten with salt.

For example, Bourgogne Chablis.

However, neither red nor white wine goes well with herring or salmon roe. The iron specific to wine is said to contribute to the fishy smell of fish roe.

In the research of one wine manufacturer, the factor that generates the smell of fish and shellfish is the iron (ferrous ion) found in wine. Wines with relatively low levels of iron such as Sherry (Spain), Champagne (France) fermented twice in the bottle, Cava (Spain) and Franciacorta (Italy) mature without adding sulfite, which prevents oxidization. This reduces the ferrous ion in the wine and the fishy smell is virtually unnoticeable.

Either way, the research of wine and sushi pairings is still insufficient and there haven’t yet been any reports of unexpected compatibility. If anyone out there has found a wine that does pair well with herring or salmon roe, please be sure to share that information with us.

Related contents: See Best Wine For Sushi?

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Revision date: January 17, 2018

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Why are the prices at high-end sushi restaurants and conveyor belt sushi restaurants so different?

Conveyor belt sushi restaurants and high-end sushi restaurants in areas like Ginza both serve sushi, but they differ significantly in their roles and the quality of the experience they offer.

The most obvious difference is the price range. Conveyor belt sushi offers dishes starting at 100 yen per plate, making it affordable and popular among families and students. In contrast, high-end sushi restaurants primarily offer “omakase” courses, which can cost between 10,000 and 50,000 yen per person. These establishments are often chosen for special occasions or business entertaining, where customers seek an extraordinary experience.

The serving style is also contrasting. At conveyor belt sushi restaurants, the self-service style where sushi is served on a conveyor belt is the norm. Recently, touch-panel ordering and high-speed conveyor belts have been introduced to prioritize efficiency and speed. In contrast, high-end sushi restaurants primarily use a counter-style setup where chefs prepare each piece of sushi by hand and serve it directly to customers. Sushi is not merely a meal but an experience of “once-in-a-lifetime” interaction between the chef and the customer.

At the core of this “experience” lies the sushi chef’s observational skills and conversational abilities. Chefs at high-end sushi restaurants constantly observe customers’ eating progress, expressions, and how much they drink. They make split-second judgments about whether the sushi is being enjoyed, the timing for the next piece, and the customer’s hunger level, all while serving dishes at an impeccable pace. They do more than just serve sushi; they may also briefly explain the origin of the ingredients or the preparation process, or engage in conversation to lighten the mood. This ability to maintain the perfect balance—neither too much nor too little—while giving customers a sense of comfort and familiarity is a testament to the chef’s experience and human touch. Such interactions are a unique feature of high-end sushi restaurants that cannot be experienced at conveyor-belt sushi restaurants.

There are also significant differences in the toppings used and the depth of preparation. At conveyor belt sushi restaurants, cooking processes are streamlined to accommodate large volumes, and frozen or pre-processed ingredients are commonly used. Traditional Edomae-style techniques such as kobujime (kelp-wrapping), sujime (vinegar-marinating) are rarely seen, and the standard style involves placing ingredients on rice shaped by machines. This streamlining contributes to the appeal of enjoying sushi affordably and quickly.
In contrast, high-end sushi restaurants use fresh, natural ingredients sourced daily, with each ingredient prepared in the most suitable way. The sushi chefs carefully craft each piece to bring out the individual characteristics of the ingredients, and even the rice is meticulously prepared, with attention to the type of rice, vinegar, and temperature. The chefs adjust the size and firmness of each piece based on their judgment to achieve the perfect harmony between the ingredients and the rice.

Furthermore, there is a significant difference in the atmosphere of the restaurants themselves. At conveyor belt sushi restaurants, the layout prioritizes efficiency, with tables as the main seating arrangement. The interior design and furnishings are often cost-effective, creating a bright and casual atmosphere. In contrast, high-end sushi restaurants feature natural wood counters, carefully selected tableware, and soft lighting, with a consistent aesthetic throughout the space. Even the chairs, chopstick rests, and chopsticks are made from high-quality materials, all functioning as part of the stage setting for the art of sushi.

Even among high-end sushi restaurants, there is a wide range of styles. For example, some restaurants, like “Sukiyabashi Jiro,” serve only sushi, with no appetizers or side dishes, focusing solely on the sushi itself. Others offer a course that includes appetizers, grilled dishes, and simmered dishes before the sushi, allowing customers to enjoy the pairing with sake. Especially in the latter style, rare local sake and seasonal limited-edition sake from all over the country are available, and the entire course is presented as a story, taking into account the compatibility of the dishes with the sake.

On the other hand, conveyor belt sushi is basically designed as a place to enjoy sushi quickly and easily, with drinks centered around beer and standard sake. Appetizers and side dishes are not emphasized. In this way, even among high-end sushi restaurants, there are those that “compete solely on the quality of their sushi” In this way, conveyor belt sushi and high-end sushi restaurants have completely different philosophies and roles, from price, serving style, ingredients, and space to the relationship with the chefs. Conveyor belt sushi combines efficiency and fun, making sushi a more everyday part of Japanese cuisine. High-end sushi restaurants present sushi as an “art of cuisine,” blending technical skill and aesthetic sensibility to convey the depth of sushi and the essence of Japanese culture.

By understanding the unique appeal of each and choosing according to your purpose or mood, you can fully appreciate the multifaceted nature of sushi as a dish.

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Revision date: June 2, 2025

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Why is sushi served with Gari?

Gari is pickled ginger.

This ginger includes Zingerone, a pungent component, and Gingerol, a spice component that changes to Shogaol when heated. Zingerone and Shogaol combine with the components that cause the fishy smell of fish and can eliminate that smell from its source. It makes sense to use ginger as a condiment for fish known for a stronger smell, like horse mackerel and bonito. The Gari served with sushi utilizes the effects of these components effectively for the enjoyment of the delicious taste of the sushi.

On the other hand, wasabi works by numbing senses of taste and smell with a stimulating spice so that the consumer doesn’t experience the fishy smell.

Furthermore, when you try to eat a light sushi topping after one with a richer flavor, a bit of Gari will cleanse your palette so you can fully enjoy the lighter fish. The pungent component also accelerates saliva production, assists with digestion and enhances absorption.

In summary, ginger removes the fishy smell at the source, while wasabi prevents you from noticing the fishy smell.

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Revision date: April 3, 2025

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What are “Ikejime” and “Nojime”?

How the fish is butchered also changes the taste. If the fish suffers and struggles, the body wears and may be damaged, circulating oxidized blood throughout the body, which makes it lose flavor. For fish of high value such as sea bream, flounder, yellowtail, rudderfish and tuna, a method called “ikejime” is used.

The taste of tuna is said to be determined based on the preparations after being caught. The tuna is caught with as little suffering as possible and the nerves are killed immediately for an instant death. Generally, blood is then drained perfectly, entrails and gills are removed, the tail cut off and then the fish is placed in ice-water to lower the body temperature.

The medulla oblongata and main artery of the fish are cut and a kitchen knife is inserted into the base of the tail to drain the blood. A thin metal rod is inserted into the backbone to paralyze the nerves and at the same time controls the putrefied materials that come out of the spinal cord.

This extends the time until rigor mortis sets in, making it easier to maintain freshness and simultaneously preventing blood from circulating in the body, which also prevents the fishy smell.

Freezing the fish to death in ice water is called “nojime”. This method is generally used for small fish such as sardines, horse mackerel and mackerel that are fished in large volume. Although the freshness of the fish deteriorates more quickly than in the case of “ikejime,” it can be done in large quantities without a lot of labor and maintains a certain level of freshness afterwards.

At fish markets, the term “kill” is not used for living fish, instead the word “shimeru” meaning to close or tighten. The term “dead fish” is also not used. Instead the term “nojime” is used for fish that died naturally en route to the market. This stems from the awe of precious life and turning that life into food.

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Revision date: January 13, 2023

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Drinking tea makes sushi taste better!

The Hidden Role of Tea in Sushi Dining

A photo of Green tea — Tea is always served with nigiri sushi.

Even if you order beer or sake at a sushi restaurant, your meal will almost always end with a cup of tea. But if you’re going out for sushi, consider drinking that tea earlier, rather than saving it for the end. At sushi restaurants, tea is more than just a simple beverage—it plays an essential role, especially when enjoying fatty cuts like tuna or bonito. It offers benefits that beer and sake simply can’t match.

Why Temperature Matters

One key reason lies in the temperature.

Hot tea helps dissolve the residual fat left on your tongue after eating fatty sushi. This thin layer of fat coats your taste buds like a film, dulling your ability to fully enjoy the flavors of the next bite. Beer and sake, no matter how much you drink, are ineffective at removing this film. But hot tea melts the fat and washes it away, essentially resetting your palate. In that sense, tea serves as a kind of preparation for fully appreciating each new piece of sushi.

Tea’s Antibacterial Benefits

Another reason hot tea is ideal—particularly when paired with raw fish—comes from its antibacterial properties. Tea contains catechins, natural compounds with strong antibacterial effects that can kill many of the bacteria responsible for food poisoning.

Foodborne bacteria are generally divided into two types: toxin-type, which causes illness when bacterial toxins are ingested, and infection-type, which results when live bacteria infect the intestinal tract. Catechins combat both: they neutralize toxins from toxin-type bacteria and destroy the cell membranes of infection-type bacteria, reducing the risk of illness.

Catechins are a type of polyphenol, responsible for tea’s astringency and bitterness. They are especially abundant in green tea, where they account for about 85% of the total polyphenol content.

The amount of catechin extracted depends on the brewing temperature. They are not easily extracted at low temperatures or in cold water but become more soluble as the temperature rises. Brewing tea at 80°C (176°F) or higher maximizes catechin extraction and, in turn, enhances its health benefits. That’s one reason tea is typically served hot—not just in sushi restaurants, but in many other Japanese eateries as well.

The Origin of Oversized Teacups

Here’s another interesting detail: the teacups used in sushi restaurants are typically larger than standard teacups. This tradition dates back to when sushi chefs operated small stands on their own and didn’t have enough hands to constantly refill cups while also preparing sushi. The oversized cups helped minimize refills and keep service efficient.

And to be perfectly frank, there may have been a practical motive as well—if customers fill up on tea, which is easy to drink, they might end up eating less sushi, the main (and more profitable) attraction.

Best supporting role for wasabi that magnifies the umami in sushi many times over

Back before there were refrigerators, wasabi was indispensable for Nigirizushi, eliminating the fishy smell and also providing bactericidal effects to prevent the fish from spoiling. Wasabi is originally from Japan and it has been used in Edomae sushi from the very beginning. Even with all the advancements in technology for storing sushi toppings, wasabi is still used today to remove the fishy smell and prevent spoiling. However, nowadays the flavor and aroma of wasabi and the way it brings out the flavor of the sushi topping is the main focus.

When wasabi is grated and exposed to the air, its unique heat is made enhanced by enzymes. Using a coarse grater gives the wasabi a rough, fibrous texture that spreads the spicy flavor through to the back of the throat. On the other hand, if Sharkskin wasabi is grated finely, it foams up with tiny bubbles and makes a creamy taste. The type of wasabi depends on the personality of the shop.

However, the powdered wasabi and wasabi paste you find at kaiten-zushi (conveyor belt sushi) is primarily made from horseradish and is colored and scented with additives. It isn’t dried wasabi and it is significantly cheaper.

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Revision date: June 6, 2017

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Judge a chef’s ability and quality of the shop by its Anago

A photo of Anago — The simmered anago is soft and tender, with a melt-in-your-mouth flavor.

Anago and Edomae Sushi

Sushi restaurants that advertise “Edomae style” on the sign somewhat fear customers who order Anago (Japanese conger) right off the bat. If the customer then eats as if they are really taking the time to taste the sushi, then any chef not fully confident in their skills will want to hide under the sushi counter.

Anago is a topping that really demonstrates a chef’s skills (or lack thereof). Edomae-style sushi chefs work on many toppings. Anago is a perfect example of these toppings.

In the morning, sushi chefs purchase anago that has undergone Ikejime. The anago is placed on a special cutting board, and a skewer is inserted into the pectoral fin to secure it firmly.

A knife is inserted from the back, following the spine, and the fish is cut open while holding it firmly with one hand, all the way to the tail. The internal organs and spine are removed, and the head is separated from the body. Finally, the flesh is scraped with a knife to remove any remaining impurities, completing the process. While it may seem like a simple task when described in words, it requires a high level of skill.

Before cooking, the anago is rubbed with salt to remove the slime. Rubbing causes moisture to be drawn out of the eel. This moisture contains the fishy odor of the eel. This process removes the characteristic muddy smell from the flesh. Additionally, as the moisture is removed, the flesh becomes more compact, making it less likely to fall apart even after prolonged simmering. However, the flesh does become slightly firmer due to the loss of moisture. Some sushi chefs rinse the eel with hot water and carefully remove the slime with a knife.

Since the fish is plain, the flavoring is also a subtle skill and not an easy task. Depending on the shop, the chef may make the sushi with the boiled fish, use Nitsume to bring out the flavor or lightly roast the fish before combining it with the rice. The chef’s ideas and abilities are apparent in the final dish. If the sushi is made from the freshly boiled fish, it should be soft and melt in your mouth…if the chef knows what they are doing! Lightly roasted Anago will have an aroma that fills your entire mouth.

The work this topping takes to serve is a chance for sushi shops to show off their specialties, but it is also a clear indicator of the quality of the shop. The level of the chef and quality of the sushi shop will be revealed as soon as you place Anago in your mouth.

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Revision date: June 11, 2025

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Kohada (Gizzard shad) flavor is refined by exquisite salt seasoning!

According to most sushi masters, salt is the defining factor in the taste of gizzard shad (kohada).

Before seasoning gizzard shad with vinegar, the process starts with salting the spread open shad. It is the length the fish is salted that makes or breaks the fish. The reason for salting the gizzard shad is not just for flavoring, but also to draw out the umami of the fish. Salting for too long results in a briny taste; too short and the umami won’t come to the fore. The timing must be perfect in order to achieve that emotional “umami” moment.

This timing can be compared to boiling eggs: 3 minutes gets you soft-boiled eggs but five minutes gets you hard-boiled eggs. With eggs you can follow this rule of thumb, but no such rule exists for the spotted shad. The conditions for the salting time differ depending on the temperature, humidity, size of the fish and the degree of fat.

For example, a more slender fish in the middle of summer may be salted for 30 minutes, but a fatty fish in the winter needs to be salted for four hours. Just a few minutes longer or shorter than the perfect salting time completely changes the taste of the final dish.

Skilled chefs adjust the time on a daily basis according to the weather and the quality of the fish. Shops that can provide precisely the same spotted shad taste every day of the year are truly the best of the best.

Related contents:
TYPES OF EDO-STYLE PREPARATIONS

Gizzard shad (Kohada)

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Revision date: May 29, 2017

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How do you order at a sushi restaurant?

The sushi restaurant is unusual in that the customer sitting at the counter can see the seafood (neta) from which individual servings will be made, and can watch the chef deftly perform his art while enjoying lively conversation. Sushi restaurants also differ from other restaurants when it comes to menus.

Typically there aren’t any.

If the customer is inclined to worry about what the bill will come to, he orders Okimari (combination set)*. This consists of 7 to 10 pieces of nigiri-sushi and nori-maki selected by the proprietor in such a way as to allow them to offer an affordable price. It is cheaper because, like ready-made clothes, Okimari is not necessarily made piece by piece to fill individual orders. Of course, it will not be of inferior quality. Okimari is prepared by the chef and his assistants in the same way that everything else the shop is prepared. If the diner still wants more, they are always free to order sushi of their choice (Okonomi). Generally Japanese customers eat no more than 10 pieces of nigiri-sushi.

People at the counter most often order Okonomi (a la carte)**, which may be likened to having suits tailor-made from the finest fabrics. The customer who orders only the best will find that the check at the end can get a little expensive. But this is worth remembering (sushi worth eating is never inexpensive).

Long ago people used to say that first ordering Okimari and then ordering Okonomi after was the best deal for eating sushi, but that is a thing of the past. Actually, there are more and more shops that don’t allow Okonomi orders. The only choice is Omakase***. In some cases, all customers sitting at the counter take their seats at the same time and eat the same dishes and the same sushi in the same order. Even if you know nothing about sushi toppings, if you leave it to a master sushi chef, they will provide you with a combination boasting a good balance of early, peak and late season sushi. Omakase is great as it allows you to concentrate on genuinely enjoying the sushi and, especially if you’re visiting a shop for the first time, there will be no confusion regarding the best dishes.

*Okimari－The price and menu content are easily understood when ordering “Okimari”. The rank of “Tokujou”, “Jou”, “Nami” are often used. Order additional sushi as you like for a more fulfilling experience.

**Okonomi－A way customers choose and order sushi they want to eat. If you clearly know what you like and want to enjoy eating at your own pace, ordering “Okonomi” your choice of sushi, would be best.

***Omakase－If you don’t have any preferences, and you are happy to have a professional choose the most delicious toppings from that day’s catch, then ask for Omakase.

Related contents：What are Omakase, Okonomi and Okimari?

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Revision date: January 26, 2021

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Salmon is not used as a topping in Edo-style sushi!

The Japanese were not in the habit of eating salmon raw. Salmon was not a traditional topping in Edo-style sushi. The reason for this is that the existence of parasites has been well-known since long ago and there was no way to prepare the salmon raw.

According to the Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare, salmon must be frozen at -20℃ for at least 24 hours in order to completely kill all parasites. Salmon served at sushi restaurants must be stored frozen and then thawed before serving.

The type of salmon (sake) you find in Japan is Chum salmon. However, most of the salmon served raw at sushi restaurants is Atlantic salmon. This is a popular topping throughout the world due to the high-fat content and smooth texture achieved by sea farming in places like Norway and Chile. The fish are strictly managed from water quality to the effects on the environment, so there are very few issues with parasites and the salmon can be eaten raw. However, the fact remains that the fish are administered a number of chemicals due to concern of the spread of disease-causing germs in the farms.

Even when salmon roe and sea urchin first started to be used as toppings, most sushi chefs said that these didn’t count as Nigirizushi and refused to use them. However the favorable reputation of sea urchin sushi in Ginza won out, it started to be used by more chefs and eventually became one of the major dishes.

The fifth-generation sushi chef at one long-standing shop says, “If it’s what the customers want, then salmon may also be rolled as Nigirizushi in the near future.” It may even become part of the standard menu.

At a pre-Edo sushi shop that features Hokkaido toppings, they are actually serving ultra-high grade salmon such as Keiji* and Tokishirazu**.

*Keiji are young salmon with immature ovaries or testes. Only 1-2 Keiji are found in a normal catch of 10,000 salmon. Normal salmon fat content is 2-15% but the Keiji has a very high body fat percentage at 20-30%.

**Tokishirazu are salmon swimming upstream at the beginning of summer. They are the same chum salmon found in the fall, but since they aren’t caught during the spawning season, the fish don’t have eggs or milt, and instead have a high-fat content. The name “Tokishirazu” stems from the fact that these fish are caught out of season, in summer and the name means ”ignorant of time”

What type of vinegar do sushi restaurants use?

Instead of looking at the topping, take a moment to focus on the vinegared rice (shari). This shari is made of a blend of red and white vinegar.

When the Edo style sushi first appeared, red vinegar (made from fermented sake lees) was used for the sushi rice. Approximately 200 years ago Matazaemon Nakano, founder of Mizkan (a condiment manufacturer) invented red vinegar, which circulated and was used throughout Edo. At the time, red vinegar was used because it was more inexpensive than vinegar made from rice (white vinegar).

Instead of looking at the topping, take a moment to focus on the vinegared rice (shari). This shari is made using only white vinegar.

Nowadays the more fragrant rice vinegar (white vinegar) is used nearly exclusively but increasingly more shops have rediscovered the full-bodied but mild red vinegar and are using it in their dishes. Various restaurants have even come up with new ideas such as blending multiple vinegars or using different vinegar depending on the fish. Ultimately the sushi chef can exercise their own ingenuity in matching topping flavors with white or red vinegar.