Examples include red meat fish, white meat fish, silver-skinned fish, and fish roe etc. Depending on the sushi ingredients (sushi toppings), condiments such as soy sauce, salt, and Nikiri soy sauce are used differently. Outside of Japan, the sushi toppings such as avocado and cream cheese are preferred in place of raw seafood, something that is unthinkable of with traditional Japanese sushi.
The simmered anago is soft and tender, with a melt-in-your-mouth flavor.
Anago and Edomae Sushi
Sushi restaurants that advertise “Edomae style” on the sign somewhat fear customers who order Anago (Japanese conger) right off the bat. If the customer then eats as if they are really taking the time to taste the sushi, then any chef not fully confident in their skills will want to hide under the sushi counter.
Anago is a topping that really demonstrates a chef’s skills (or lack thereof). Edomae-style sushi chefs work on many toppings. Anago is a perfect example of these toppings.
In the morning, sushi chefs purchase anago that has undergone Ikejime. The anago is placed on a special cutting board, and a skewer is inserted into the pectoral fin to secure it firmly.
A knife is inserted from the back, following the spine, and the fish is cut open while holding it firmly with one hand, all the way to the tail. The internal organs and spine are removed, and the head is separated from the body. Finally, the flesh is scraped with a knife to remove any remaining impurities, completing the process. While it may seem like a simple task when described in words, it requires a high level of skill.
Before cooking, the anago is rubbed with salt to remove the slime. Rubbing causes moisture to be drawn out of the eel. This moisture contains the fishy odor of the eel. This process removes the characteristic muddy smell from the flesh. Additionally, as the moisture is removed, the flesh becomes more compact, making it less likely to fall apart even after prolonged simmering. However, the flesh does become slightly firmer due to the loss of moisture. Some sushi chefs rinse the eel with hot water and carefully remove the slime with a knife.
Since the fish is plain, the flavoring is also a subtle skill and not an easy task. Depending on the shop, the chef may make the sushi with the boiled fish, use Nitsume to bring out the flavor or lightly roast the fish before combining it with the rice. The chef’s ideas and abilities are apparent in the final dish. If the sushi is made from the freshly boiled fish, it should be soft and melt in your mouth…if the chef knows what they are doing! Lightly roasted Anago will have an aroma that fills your entire mouth.
The work this topping takes to serve is a chance for sushi shops to show off their specialties, but it is also a clear indicator of the quality of the shop. The level of the chef and quality of the sushi shop will be revealed as soon as you place Anago in your mouth.
According to most sushi masters, salt is the defining factor in the taste of gizzard shad (kohada).
Before seasoning gizzard shad with vinegar, the process starts with salting the spread open shad. It is the length the fish is salted that makes or breaks the fish. The reason for salting the gizzard shad is not just for flavoring, but also to draw out the umami of the fish. Salting for too long results in a briny taste; too short and the umami won’t come to the fore. The timing must be perfect in order to achieve that emotional “umami” moment.
This timing can be compared to boiling eggs: 3 minutes gets you soft-boiled eggs but five minutes gets you hard-boiled eggs. With eggs you can follow this rule of thumb, but no such rule exists for the spotted shad. The conditions for the salting time differ depending on the temperature, humidity, size of the fish and the degree of fat.
For example, a more slender fish in the middle of summer may be salted for 30 minutes, but a fatty fish in the winter needs to be salted for four hours. Just a few minutes longer or shorter than the perfect salting time completely changes the taste of the final dish.
Skilled chefs adjust the time on a daily basis according to the weather and the quality of the fish. Shops that can provide precisely the same spotted shad taste every day of the year are truly the best of the best.
The real way of making sushi rice for Nigiri sushi by a sushi master. There are 4 tips!
In order to bring sushi to life, it is extremely important how sushi rice (shari or vinegared rice) is made. Let me introduce a cooking method, a top grade sushi master uses.
First, wash the rice gently. Leave it to soak for about half an hour and let it fully absorb water. The most important point here is to keep the water level which includes the rice consistent (The first tip).
The rice should be cooked with water with a ratio of 10 to 9. A little less water than the regular rice, so that it is cooked slightly hard. This is the second tip.
While you wait for the rice to cook, make awasezu* by adding salt and sugar in vinegar. Also, set up hangiri (rice-cooling tub) for mixing the rice. Don’t forget to wipe the inside with a wet kitchen towel to prevent the rice from sticking to it.
Once the rice has finished cooking, leave it to steam for about 15 minutes and dump it out into hangiri. Pour awasezu immediately and let it sit for 30 seconds or so. Because the rice absorbs vinegar only while it is hot, managing this process quickly is the third tip.
After letting it sit for 30 seconds, spread the rice out with shamoji (rice spatula) as if cutting it down. Make sure that vinegar goes around using a cutting motion vertically. Additionally, fan the rice using a uchiwa (fan) to remove the moisture of vinegar and mix the rice with a cutting motion horizontally this time. Fanning with uchiwa is not to cool down the rice (Do not put the rice in the fridge to cool it down.), but to dry up the excess moisture of vinegar. Moving both hands as you consider it is the fourth tip.
After the rice is vinegared evenly, assemble it in one place and cover it with a damp kitchen towel. In about an hour, it is ready when sushi rice is settled. (Body temperature) Even in a hurry, if you don’t give at least 30 minutes, it won’t help the taste of course, and also won’t make it easy to form the rice for sushi. If you rush at the end, all the delicate attention up to this will be in vain.
*A professional recipe for awasezu is as follows. This is a recipe for short grain rice
species such as Koshihikari and Sasanishiki. Slightly sticky rice like calrose is not suitable for sushi rice.
(Ingredients)
Rice:360cc
Water:330 – 340cc
Komezu (Rice vineger):50 – 60cc
Salt:1 tsp – 2 tsp
Sugar:1 tbsp plus 1 tsp – 2 tbsp plus 2 tsp
*If you use Akazu (Red vinegar made from fermented sake lees), add almost no sugar.
The Japanese were not in the habit of eating salmon raw. Salmon was not a traditional topping in Edo-style sushi. The reason for this is that the existence of parasites has been well-known since long ago and there was no way to prepare the salmon raw.
According to the Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare, salmon must be frozen at -20℃ for at least 24 hours in order to completely kill all parasites. Salmon served at sushi restaurants must be stored frozen and then thawed before serving.
The type of salmon (sake) you find in Japan is Chum salmon. However, most of the salmon served raw at sushi restaurants is Atlantic salmon. This is a popular topping throughout the world due to the high-fat content and smooth texture achieved by sea farming in places like Norway and Chile. The fish are strictly managed from water quality to the effects on the environment, so there are very few issues with parasites and the salmon can be eaten raw. However, the fact remains that the fish are administered a number of chemicals due to concern of the spread of disease-causing germs in the farms.
Even when salmon roe and sea urchin first started to be used as toppings, most sushi chefs said that these didn’t count as Nigirizushi and refused to use them. However the favorable reputation of sea urchin sushi in Ginza won out, it started to be used by more chefs and eventually became one of the major dishes.
The fifth-generation sushi chef at one long-standing shop says, “If it’s what the customers want, then salmon may also be rolled as Nigirizushi in the near future.” It may even become part of the standard menu.
At a pre-Edo sushi shop that features Hokkaido toppings, they are actually serving ultra-high grade salmon such as Keiji* and Tokishirazu**.
*Keiji are young salmon with immature ovaries or testes. Only 1-2 Keiji are found in a normal catch of 10,000 salmon. Normal salmon fat content is 2-15% but the Keiji has a very high body fat percentage at 20-30%.
**Tokishirazu are salmon swimming upstream at the beginning of summer. They are the same chum salmon found in the fall, but since they aren’t caught during the spawning season, the fish don’t have eggs or milt, and instead have a high-fat content. The name “Tokishirazu” stems from the fact that these fish are caught out of season, in summer and the name means ”ignorant of time”
Sea urchin has a creamy texture and rich flavor, with hints of natural sweetness and seaweed aroma. It leaves a lingering, rich umami flavor on the tongue. The acidity of the vinegared rice perfectly complements the sweetness of the uni. This is the general opinion of people who love sea urchin.
But some people say that “Sea urchin in a wooden box (called ‘hako-uni (箱ウニ)’ or ‘ori-uni (折ウニ)’ or ‘boxed sea urchin’) has a bitter medicine taste”.
The bitterness of sea urchin can be attributed to several factors, including changes in components due to decreased freshness, natural variations in taste depending on species or individual differences, the influence of the quality of seaweed used as feed on flavor, and the use of “potassium aluminum sulfate” (commonly known as alum) to enhance preservation and prevent deformation.
This alum treatment can also impart a distinctive bitterness, astringency, and metallic taste, making it a well-known cause of bitterness. As a result, many high-end sushi restaurants use sea urchin that is labeled as “additive-free” (no alum used).
If you’ve ever tried a sea urchin that tasted bitter*, this may be the reason.
*An “off flavor” that takes away from the primary good tastes.
What is saltwater sea urchin?
Sea urchin soaked in brine without using alum (called ‘ensui-uni (塩水ウニ)’ or ‘saltwater sea urchin’) is also commonly found. There is also a new technology that doesn’t use alum. In this method nitrogen water (water from which oxygen has been removed and then nitrogen dissolved) is used when sealing. The effect of replacing oxygen with nitrogen is inhibited oxidation, maintaining the freshness of the sea urchin.
Since it is sold soaked in saltwater with a salt concentration nearly identical to seawater, it has no bitterness or astringency, allowing you to enjoy the natural sweetness, umami, and seaweed aroma of the sea urchin, as well as its fluffy texture and juiciness. While it has a short shelf life, it is favored by sushi restaurants and high-end Japanese restaurants that prioritize quality. However, it is prone to losing its shape, so handling requires caution, and it is recommended to consume it as soon as possible after purchase.
This refers to Norimaki, originating from Kanpyo maki. Now the core of Norimaki may be made from a number of different ingredients, but the most important part of Norimaki is not the ingredients inside, but the Nori (seaweed). There is a tendency for foreigners to dislike black-colored food, but Nori has a fresh sea scent, and a high amino acid and umami content, so it’s worth a second look.
The Nori used in Norimaki and Gunkan-maki is essential to Edomae sushi. The Nori used in sushi absolutely must have good fragrance and crispiness, melt in your mouth and have the right coloring. The combination of selecting the quality and source site of Nori and using different Nori according to the sushi topping is one of the things sushi chefs are particular about. During the Edo era, the sea near the area that is now Omori in Tokyo was the largest production site of Nori. However, with the reclaiming of Tokyo Bay, Nori can no longer be caught in Omori. Now, places like the Ariake Sea, Seto Inland Sea and Tokyo Bay are famous for producing high-quality Nori.
*Japanese terms will be italicized on sushi ingredients page.
There are only high rank toppings such as rich tasting sea urchin (Uni), salmon roe (Ikura) and herring roe (Kazunoko). All different from other sushi toppings when it comes to a texture and flavor. A lot of them have become widespread ever since the technique of gunkan style sushi was established after the war. There are also sushi toppings made from other than fish and shellfish.
*Japanese terms will be italicized on sushi ingredients page.
Crustaceans like shrimp and crab are sushi toppings overflowing with their distinctive sweetness.
Except for Kuruma ebi, Ebi and Kani (shrimp and crab) were introduced as sushi toppings after WWII. The sweetness of shrimp is stronger when eaten raw. There is still a sweetness remaining in boiled shrimp, but it’s weaker. Instead, the umami gets stronger and the texture is also completely different than when served raw. When boiled the fiber is more apparent and it can be bitten clear through. Kuruma ebi is one of the traditional sushi toppings of the Edo period.
The umami of shrimp is sweeter than that of crab. The sweetness comes from the amino acids contained in the extract: glycine, arginine, alanine, propurine, and betaine. In particular, Kurumaebi and amaebi are particularly rich in glycine. On the other hand, umami is related to ATP decomposition-related substances.
This painting depicts “Matsu no Sushi,” which was famous as the most extravagant sushi in Edo. A child is begging for shrimp sushi.
Crab wasn’t originally an Edomae sushi topping. However, there is a special sweetness that oozes from the gaps in the fibrous body. The umami of crab is the amino acids in the extract component. Among crabs, hairy crabs have the most amino acids, while those of snow crabs, a high-end winter delicacy, are less abundant than those of hairy crabs, and therefore less rich in flavor. Nucleic acid-related substances are mainly CMP, but ATP-degrading substances such as AMP and inosinic acid are also involved in the umami taste. The main component of sweetness is glycine betaine, a sugar alcohol-based component.
*Japanese terms will be italicized on sushi ingredients page.
<Ebi/Kani-Prawn/Crab>
Aburagani-Blue king crab (Paralithodes platypus (Brandi,1850))
Aka ebi-Argentine Red Shrimp (Pleoticus muelleri (Spence Bate, 1888))
Shellfish has been a traditional sushi topping started off with the origin of Edomae sushi. Its distinctive texture is fascinating, but the thing is, all kinds are expensive. As a sushi topping, it is placed between rich and light in flavor, and functions as a palate refresher.
The texture, flavor and fragrance differ greatly depending on the type and most people either love or hate Shellfish toppings.
A characteristic of the taste of shellfish is that it is both refreshing and rich. This is presumably due to succinic acid. It is known that if succinic acid is removed from the shellfish extract component, the umami of shellfish also disappears. However, the umami of shellfish is not due to succinic acid alone, but to the synergistic effects of amino acids such as glutamic acid, glycine, alanine, arginine, and betaine, which are present in the extract, and adenylic acid, a nucleic acid-related substance.
Kai is another topping type that has been eaten as Nigiri sushi since it was invented. Hamaguri is essentially a type of shellfish, but when in the Nigiri sushi world, it is generally lightly seared and then marinated in broth, so it is classified as Nimono.
*Japanese terms will be italicized on sushi ingredients page.
The Japanese love this strong umami coming out of its creepy features. These are sushi toppings that show their presence in your mouth.
There are over 450 types of Ika (squid) in the world and over 100 types just in the seawaters around Japan. Ika is essential to Japanese cuisine and is found in many recipes for home cooking. It is a representative of ingredients for common people that is both affordable and delicious. There are also many different types of Ika used as sushi toppings, and certain Ika are used during certain seasons, each with a unique flavor.
Tako (octopus) is a popular sushi topping at every sushi restaurant. However, preparing Tako from its raw state is very labor intensive. Some restaurants boil it, while others use “Sakura-ni.” Elaborate efforts are made at the restaurant in order to prepare a topping that can be bitten through and emit a delicious fragrance. Needless to say, when prepared raw, it is thoroughly kneaded by hand. It may be struck with the crest or wooden pestle of a kitchen knife, or boiled with roasted green tea, incorporating techniques from Kansai dishes. When Tako is prepared as Sakura-ni*, it is classified as Nimono.
*”Sakura-ni” refers to stewing octopus in sake, mirin and soy sauce to soften it, turning it into a shape that resembles cherry blossom (sakura) petals.
Japanese terms will be italicized on sushi ingredients page.
Hikarimono is a name unique to the sushi industry, and as the name implies, it refers to fish with shiny surface skin.
Hikarimono (Silver-skinned fish) includes horse mackerel, mackerel, sardines, sillago, and gizzard shad, generally referred to as blue-backed fish. Hikarimono all have high-fat content. It is approximately 7% in gizzard shad and horse mackerel. It is about 16% in mackerel. The taste is heavy. Many of the fish in this category lose their freshness quickly, so the preparations differ greatly from restaurant to restaurant. They say that you can tell how well a restaurant is doing by which Hikarimono they serve. This may be why many restaurants make sure to work hard on their Hikarimono.
Tachiuo really does look like a sword from the outside, so it seems like it should be classified as Hikarimono, but it’s actually Shiromi. In the sushi restaurant sector, Hikarimono refers to sushi toppings for which Sujime is used in the preparations. Furthermore, there are chefs who classify Shima aji as Hikarimono when the silver skin is left on, and Shiromi when the skin is removed. There are many people finding it hard to eat but it is actually healthy and rich in nutritive value.
*Japanese terms will be italicized on sushi ingredients page.
Because shiromi has few peculiarities, it is an ingredient that can be easily arranged in a variety of cooking methods, flavors, and combinations with ingredients.
The first item recommended to taste is white-flesh fish. Because of its subtle flavor, it doesn’t influence the following topping. Serving it for the very first piece of sushi is a standard move. However, absolute umami in the lightness can be taken as the details Japanese love and no other sushi toppings can offer.
Shiromi refers to white-colored fish meat. The fat content in Shiromi is generally low at about 1.2% in flounder and 4.7% in sea bream. Almost all white fish have a subtle and elegant taste. Furthermore, the rigor mortis takes over slowly and lasts for a long time, so it maintains the crunchy texture longer. Unlike Akami, the Shiromi fish don’t really migrate. You can call yourself a sushi expert if you’re able to recognize which fish it is just by looking at the cut.
Contrary to appearance, Salmon is classified as Shiromi.
The salmon is originally grey, and the pink color comes from the pigments of the shrimp and crab on which it preys. We also think that Buri and Shima aji meat looks more beige than white. To be more specific, these are classified as Iromono, but there are relatively few chefs who actually know this term so we will refer to them as Shiromi. Once you’re able to speak knowledgeably on Shiromi, you’ll be a true Sushi Foodie.
What you should keep in mind is that most Shiromi fish used at sushi restaurants is sold as live fish. The broker implements Ikejime according to the instructions of the purchasing shop and then it is delivered. Basically, the chef calculates backward from the time he will make the sushi, aiming to maximize the umami. Furthermore, the price is at least 50% higher, considering the cost to transport from the fishing port to Toyosu Market, etc. This is one of the reasons Shiromi is so expensive at sushi restaurants.
Of course, only white fish that can be used for nigiri sushi is listed. Many varieties of Fugu exist, but with the exception of Torafugu (Japanese puffer fish), they are mainly used in conveyor belt sushi.
Shiromi has no taste and many people do not like this fish very much. Certainly, in French and Chinese cuisine, where soups and sauces are heavily seasoned, the fish does not need an assertive taste. The appreciation of the dish as a whole is important and does not focus on the fish that make up the dish. In these cuisines, the fish is only part of the Umami substance rather than the flavor.
*Japanese terms will be italicized on sushi ingredients page. Parentheses after the English name indicate the scientific name.
Akami generally refers to red-colored meat like beef and fish meat. The typical Akami fish are tuna and bonito. Its fatty and rich taste gives you satisfaction like “This is the sushi”. The meat gets its red color from the high hemoglobin and myoglobin content specific to migratory fish. At a sushi restaurant, when you order Akami, you will be served tuna. The word Akami exists for tuna.
*Japanese terms will be italicized on sushi ingredients page.